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IFSC comps 2022 (Read 29200 times)

Duma

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IFSC comps 2022
April 08, 2022, 04:15:51 pm
Women's qualis done in Meiringen, surprise to see Miho out already. No British women through to the semis.

Men qualis on now

Duma

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#1 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 08, 2022, 05:54:16 pm
Max Milne through (comfortably) for the Brits, no Jakob or Sean Bailey though.

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#2 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 08, 2022, 08:10:53 pm
Really happy for Max, he's been impressive recently, glad he's backed it up with a performance like that. Hopefully he can capitalise on it on Sunday.

Disappointing to not have anyone in women's semis - but not completely surprising tbh. Wonder who the next breakout woman will be for British bouldering.  Hannah Slaney won world champs at junior level but that was a while ago and obviously hasn't regained that form. Molly seems focused on lead, which is good in itself. But can't really see past that to where our next regular semi finalist might come from. Hopefully this season will give the team some good experience and the results pick up a bit - would be nice to be able to watch them on the livestream!

Duma

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#3 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 09, 2022, 12:36:32 pm
Janja and Natalia saving the setters blushes at the end...

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#4 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 09, 2022, 04:41:35 pm
Theres a girl called Lucy Garlick who looks the real deal as well as another upcoming athlete Fae Macdougall. They would be my top tips for success. Lucy was very impressive in last year's youth internationals and Fae is plain incredible( maybe only 13 or 14?) and already giving senior team a run for their money.

Duma

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#5 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 10, 2022, 12:19:56 pm
Janja quoted as missing the rest of the boulder WCs:

“I’ve decided to skip the [rest of the] Boulder season this year. The Olympics last year were a pretty hard take on physical and mental preparation, so I feel that I need a little time off from comps and this year is the perfect year to do that."

Duma

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#6 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 10, 2022, 12:30:11 pm
Seems pretty clear the problems in women's semis and finals were too hard for most of the field, shame but not sure how they split Janja and Natalia otherwise? I guess if it was set at a level more doable for the rest, those two would just flash everything...

At least if Janja misses the rest of the season that won't be a concern!

Edit: I've not watched it (paywall), just going on the lack of tops for the rest of the field.

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#7 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 10, 2022, 01:40:05 pm
Janja quoted as missing the rest of the boulder WCs:

“I’ve decided to skip the [rest of the] Boulder season this year. The Olympics last year were a pretty hard take on physical and mental preparation, so I feel that I need a little time off from comps and this year is the perfect year to do that."

I wonder whether she'll be kicked off the Slovenian team  :-\

Seems pretty clear the problems in women's semis and finals were too hard for most of the field, shame but not sure how they split Janja and Natalia otherwise? I guess if it was set at a level more doable for the rest, those two would just flash everything...

At least if Janja misses the rest of the season that won't be a concern!

Edit: I've not watched it (paywall), just going on the lack of tops for the rest of the field.

I only watched a tiny bit of the semi but the final seemed about perfect really; hard enough to separate Janja and Natalia as you say but still just about doable for the rest. The problem is those two (particularly Janja) are simply so far ahead.

Ito should have had a top on problem 3 but was (very harshly IMO) judged to have matched the top after the buzzer.

jakk

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#8 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 10, 2022, 08:01:27 pm
I remember the women's field having this problem before, but with more athletes, back in around 2014. You had Anna Stohr, Jule Wurn, Shauna, Akiyo, and (I think) Melissa Le Neve, operating at a totally different level than the rest, so it was those 5 plus a bonus person in finals each week, and qualis/semis was them all absolutely crushing and then maybe a top for the others. See also the BBCs when Shauna was at peak, it wasn't even a competition, just Shauna with 4 easy flashes and then the rest struggling for anything. But I'm not sure what you can really do, I thought this comp had a good balance and still had tension and was fun to watch.

Will be a shame for the show if Janja skips, but exciting to see whatever it is that she is motivated for instead! Hopefully she can pull out a winter send of Dura Dura...

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#9 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 10, 2022, 08:27:04 pm
I really want to see Janja do the men's problems. I can only imagine she'd cruise them.

Duma

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#10 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 10, 2022, 09:20:55 pm
I remember the women's field having this problem before, but with more athletes, back in around 2014. You had Anna Stohr, Jule Wurn, Shauna, Akiyo, and (I think) Melissa Le Neve, operating at a totally different level than the rest, so it was those 5 plus a bonus person in finals each week, and qualis/semis was them all absolutely crushing and then maybe a top for the others. See also the BBCs when Shauna was at peak, it wasn't even a competition, just Shauna with 4 easy flashes and then the rest struggling for anything. But I'm not sure what you can really do, I thought this comp had a good balance and still had tension and was fun to watch.

Will be a shame for the show if Janja skips, but exciting to see whatever it is that she is motivated for instead! Hopefully she can pull out a winter send of Dura Dura...

Think those are easier situations though: with one climber way out you set at the level of the rest - maybe not so much fun for Janja (or whoever) but still a good show as the other 5 in finals get to fight on problems at the appropriate level.
Similarly if you have 3 or more at a higher level - set for them, a bit of a shame for the others in the final, but there'll be enough tops from the best few to be fun watching.
In this case in order to split the top 2, the problems have to be so hard that most of the field don't get to do much climbing (2 tops out if a possible 16 from the first 4 climbers, and all on the same problem). Can't see an easy way round it, as you need to split the top two.

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#11 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 11, 2022, 11:59:08 am
I remember the women's field having this problem before, but with more athletes, back in around 2014. You had Anna Stohr, Jule Wurn, Shauna, Akiyo, and (I think) Melissa Le Neve, operating at a totally different level than the rest, so it was those 5 plus a bonus person in finals each week, and qualis/semis was them all absolutely crushing and then maybe a top for the others. See also the BBCs when Shauna was at peak, it wasn't even a competition, just Shauna with 4 easy flashes and then the rest struggling for anything. But I'm not sure what you can really do, I thought this comp had a good balance and still had tension and was fun to watch.

Will be a shame for the show if Janja skips, but exciting to see whatever it is that she is motivated for instead! Hopefully she can pull out a winter send of Dura Dura...

Think those are easier situations though: with one climber way out you set at the level of the rest - maybe not so much fun for Janja (or whoever) but still a good show as the other 5 in finals get to fight on problems at the appropriate level.
Similarly if you have 3 or more at a higher level - set for them, a bit of a shame for the others in the final, but there'll be enough tops from the best few to be fun watching.
In this case in order to split the top 2, the problems have to be so hard that most of the field don't get to do much climbing (2 tops out if a possible 16 from the first 4 climbers, and all on the same problem). Can't see an easy way round it, as you need to split the top two.

Yeah that's a good point, much harder when you need to split at both ends somehow.

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#12 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 11, 2022, 01:21:42 pm
You could have a single set of problems and rank according to men, women, absolute position. Would be interesting to see where Janja fits that.

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#13 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 11, 2022, 06:35:10 pm
The men's comp was great. Spoilers below.

NSFW  :
Semis was interesting. Bizarre to see Sudar come last having come first in qualifying. Floaty performance from Fujii, absolutely cruising.

Max was so close! If he'd just squeezed a little bit more on problem 4 he'd have been in.

Finals was brilliant, one of the most entertaining and competitive finals I think I've seen. Says it all that by the last problem any one of them could still have won it, and indeed Fujii coming out last was either going to finish 1st or 6th! Really surprising he made no impression on the last problem.

Bizarre controversy with Duffy. I'm not sure whether having to correct so many of the climbers on the start position for problem 3 is indicative of good or poor setting...certainly entertaining to watch them all fall off it before it finally clicked. Can imagine it was very frustrating for them though! I wonder how much having to do the problem 3 times took out of Duffy; if he'd topped problem 4 he'd have won but just looked a little tired when he made it to the last move.

Problem 2 I thought was brilliantly set; utterly deceptive so most of them spent the majority of their time trying duff beta. Glad it still had a top. On that note Schalck couldn't have been any closer to the win, really impressive. When he got to the last move on problem 4 I thought he was going to piss it he was going so well.

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#14 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 11, 2022, 07:07:16 pm
Is there any way to watch finals without paying in the UK?

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#15 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 11, 2022, 07:35:25 pm
https://olympics.com/en/sport-events/2022-ifsc-sport-climbing-world-cup-boulder-meiringen/

But I don't seem to be able to cast from that to Chromecast which makes it useless... So VPN and YouTube maybe if you can be bothered?
« Last Edit: April 11, 2022, 07:41:07 pm by abarro81 »

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#16 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 11, 2022, 08:10:52 pm
Floaty performance from Fujii, absolutely cruising.

I've not looked into the figures, but it strikes me that Fujii is the best qualifier/semi finalist out of anyone on the circuit currently, but doesn't always manage it in finals. I always keep a look out for his name, really enjoy his climbing, and often notice his name at the top of the list coming into finals, but then he fails to quite deliver at the end of it all. There are obvious exceptions to this - current world champion! - so i'd definitely frame it as exceptional in the first two rounds, as opposed to poor in the finals.

Anyone noticed similar? Or am I making something up that isn't really there. Maybe I'll look at some numbers if I can be bothered to trawl the ifsc website

GraemeA

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#17 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 11, 2022, 09:20:30 pm
Use https://ifsc.results.info/#/ if you want to look at stuff, it is the back end of the IFSC site and is much, much better

edshakey

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#18 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 12, 2022, 08:12:03 am
Amazing, that website is so much more useable than the usual frontend! It made me bother to actually look at numbers quickly

2022
Meiringen 17 1 6

2021
Moscow 1 3 1
Innsbruck 3 1 3
Salt Lake City 1 5 2
Salt Lake City 18 1 4
Meiringen 1 6 4

2019
Bogor 1 4 2 (Asian Championship)
Hachioji 2 3 4
Vail 7 9 -
Wuijang 5 1 5
Chongqing 3 3 6
Moscow 4 9 -
Meiringen 3 4 4


  • Since December 2019, he's competed in every IFSC bouldering event available.
  • Out of 7 events, he's placed first in a round 8 times, with only 1 win.
  • He hasn't failed to win a round at a competition since Hachioji World Championships in 2019.

Sounds like I had the right idea, but it's definitely been a noticeable improvement post pandemic.

Durbs

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#19 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 20, 2022, 03:09:54 pm
I remember the women's field having this problem before, but with more athletes, back in around 2014. You had Anna Stohr, Jule Wurn, Shauna, Akiyo, and (I think) Melissa Le Neve, operating at a totally different level than the rest, so it was those 5 plus a bonus person in finals each week, and qualis/semis was them all absolutely crushing and then maybe a top for the others.

On the flipside, this was (arguably) one of the most interesting season(s) in the women's comps as it was always a battle between these 5 and it was always pretty open as to who would win, including the 6th competitor which tended to a wider pool of about 6 more.

I've not watched the latest comp, but it seems there was yet another terrible IFSC rule-change which meant competitors could view pictures of the problems in advance of the observation?!
Doesn't seem to have been much appreciated by the climbers - IFSC again putting their own ideas ahead of what competitors/regular fans want?

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#20 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 20, 2022, 03:15:02 pm
I think the idea of pre viewing was to make the problems more doable and this more appealing to television audience.

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#21 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 20, 2022, 03:41:18 pm
I remember the women's field having this problem before, but with more athletes, back in around 2014. You had Anna Stohr, Jule Wurn, Shauna, Akiyo, and (I think) Melissa Le Neve, operating at a totally different level than the rest, so it was those 5 plus a bonus person in finals each week, and qualis/semis was them all absolutely crushing and then maybe a top for the others.

On the flipside, this was (arguably) one of the most interesting season(s) in the women's comps as it was always a battle between these 5 and it was always pretty open as to who would win, including the 6th competitor which tended to a wider pool of about 6 more.

I've not watched the latest comp, but it seems there was yet another terrible IFSC rule-change which meant competitors could view pictures of the problems in advance of the observation?!
Doesn't seem to have been much appreciated by the climbers - IFSC again putting their own ideas ahead of what competitors/regular fans want?

Yeah, "problem" in this case led to an incredible year of competition, but still with imaginable domination by Anna Stohr at the time, pretty awesome.

GraemeA

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#22 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 20, 2022, 05:15:49 pm
I think the idea of pre viewing was to make the problems more doable and this more appealing to television audience.

Nope, it is/was about levelling the playing field  and ensuring that organisers didn't have to think about covering boulders or routes. Theory is that all athletes now get the chance to 'look at the blocs/routes' not just the ones who happen to live in a city with an outdoor comp is a public space (think Chamonix).

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#23 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 20, 2022, 08:35:15 pm
Really? Surely a couple of tarps would suffice.

GraemeA

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#24 Re: IFSC comps 2022
April 21, 2022, 11:17:01 am
Really? Surely a couple of tarps would suffice.

Not an option for somewhere like Chamonix. Tarps = extra wind loading = extra ballast = damaging the roof of the undeground parking that is beneath the Place de Mt Blanc.

Antway all irrelevant now as rule has been suspended until next season, with the exception of the World Games and the FISU Championships where the rule will be tested.

 

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