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Favourite downgrading tactics?? (Read 4297 times)

Fiend

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Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 02, 2022, 05:39:44 pm
Humble brag nudge nudge wink wink implication? Direct insta-assault? Covert ops via a Trojan Horse compliment? The possibilities are endless and arguably more fun than climbing the routes....

#3 should read "....after eliminating the side runners" of course, ggwp SM forums for allowing more characters in the text box than you'll actually display  ::)

Fiend

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#1 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 02, 2022, 05:57:09 pm
Apparently I forgot the all-important “climbed a different line , made a fancy click bait drone video with original mega grade in title, but ‘mid font 7s highball’ hidden away amongst paragraphs of pseudo-drivel” option. Apologies for that and for not fully representing the diversity and integrity of modern climbing  :spank:

petejh

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#2 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 02, 2022, 06:02:50 pm
Is honesty not an option?

Fiend

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#3 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 02, 2022, 06:05:01 pm
Pfffft, it will never catch on....




« Last Edit: April 02, 2022, 06:20:18 pm by Fiend »

Wellsy

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#4 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 02, 2022, 07:20:05 pm
I feel like you can downgrade someone's effort if you are prepared to say to their face in the pub "soft as shite"

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#5 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 02, 2022, 07:42:13 pm
Think you missed out the ‘discovered a different sequence to the first ascentionist (who possesses the technical nous of a donkey)’ downgrade. Always a subtly effective swipe.

remus

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#6 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 02, 2022, 07:47:10 pm
Let's not forget the "Be french, apply automatic 2 grade downgrade to every route climbed".

Wellsy

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#7 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 03, 2022, 10:33:36 am
There's always what happened to me; do something you think might be new, try really hard on it, tentatively give it sorta maybe something like 7A... turns out Bonjoy already did it and thought it was 6C, the shame will never leave me.

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#8 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 03, 2022, 10:58:40 am
I'm not seeing pink anasazi or pan au chocolate option there fiend.

36chambers

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#9 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 03, 2022, 12:12:08 pm
Something I've done a couple of times, repeat something that's not on UKC yet and then add it at a lower grade. Easy. No one but the moderator will know.

edit: I missed the most obvious one, become a moderator for a large well known crag, with plenty of over graded scrittly "classics", and slowly downgrade everything (sometimes one notch at a time for the ridiculously over graded stuff).
« Last Edit: April 03, 2022, 12:18:48 pm by 36chambers »

Paul B

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#10 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 03, 2022, 12:40:38 pm
Log it on 8a.grades with the comment "soft" or similar?

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#11 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 03, 2022, 01:02:34 pm
Something I've done a couple of times, repeat something that's not on UKC yet and then add it at a lower grade. Easy. No one but the moderator will know.

edit: I missed the most obvious one, become a moderator for a large well known crag, with plenty of over graded scrittly "classics", and slowly downgrade everything (sometimes one notch at a time for the ridiculously over graded stuff).

Or the master stroke from this parish, write your own guidebook to a very large number of crags which you can downgrade to your heart’s delight.

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#12 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 03, 2022, 02:22:26 pm
I'm currently unable to climb due to a gammy leg, but this thread is cheering me up no end. It has gotten me pondering something. Back in the days before bouldering and sport climbing, sandbagging was the game people played. Under-grade a route and then laugh as one of your peers skirted with death due to your amusing deception. Nowadays where difficulty is king, it is all reversed and grading revolves around a different kind of oneupmanship.

I wonder if anyone has ever played the long game and deliberately repeated someones routes and publicly accepted the grade despite knowing they feel slightly overgraded, purely to lure and nudge their victim into a spectacular overgrading scenario from which there can be no return? Even better, to secretly work as part of a team, one bigging the victim up whilst the executioner waits for their cue to strike?

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#13 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 03, 2022, 05:34:41 pm
Something I've done a couple of times, repeat something that's not on UKC yet and then add it at a lower grade. Easy. No one but the moderator will know.
Top work, that's some proper  :ninja: tactics!

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#14 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 03, 2022, 06:26:50 pm
Couldn't really say why, but Egg Riot made me giggle.

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#15 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 04, 2022, 09:41:10 am
I interpreted it more as Dave being circumspect about his own grading. As others have mentioned he's in relative isolation mainly doing first ascents the last few years and it could well be his gradeometer that's out of whack.

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#16 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 04, 2022, 09:54:39 am
Something I've done a couple of times, repeat something that's not on UKC yet and then add it at a lower grade. Easy. No one but the moderator will know.

edit: I missed the most obvious one, become a moderator for a large well known crag, with plenty of over graded scrittly "classics", and slowly downgrade everything (sometimes one notch at a time for the ridiculously over graded stuff).

Or the master stroke from this parish, write your own guidebook to a very large number of crags which you can downgrade to your heart’s delight.

We were stood around at Brimham recently and the general consensus from all and sundry was that Whisky Galore at 7A just could not be abided any longer. We agreed that the grade should start at 6B+ and every failed attempt would see it notched up a grade.

I ended up getting into a bridged position at the top with much of my weight on my right hand, palming the right wall somewhere down by my waist. The only way out of the predicament was to squeeze a tiny, slippery pebble with my left hand and slowly bring my right hand over to the top. I was doing this when my fingers slipped off the pebble and I started to fly backwards, but just at the last moment both hands shot forwards to the top and grabbed on.

If you want to know what attempt that was you'll have to get the book now available for pre-order for a limited time only blah blah blah blah blah.

tommytwotone

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#17 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 04, 2022, 10:24:13 am
Continuing the modern tradition I've noticed recently of having a complete joke sandbag at 6b+ (and it is always 6b+) at most Yorkshire venues.


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#18 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 04, 2022, 10:39:39 am
Whisky galore is much easier for the tall. I can't remember exactly what I did but I there was some serious lanking involved, skipping about 3 moves that my friend of average height needed.

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#19 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 04, 2022, 12:13:49 pm
Whisky galore is much easier for the tall. I can't remember exactly what I did but I there was some serious lanking involved, skipping about 3 moves that my friend of average height needed.

I think the top is easier if you're tall but the bottom is easier if you're a bit shorter.
On this particular day we saw a short lady cruise the bottom bit and then stand bridged for ages while she figured out how to get her hands on the top. In terms of number of attempts it was very quick work for her and she came down scoffing at the 7A grade. I think she said she hadn't climbed anything harder than 6C before.

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#20 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 04, 2022, 12:29:01 pm
I think the top is easier if you're tall but the bottom is easier if you're a bit flexible.


FTFY  :)

I love blaming my weak fingers on being tall and thus heavy, but high feet are no harder for the tall IMO.

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#21 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
April 04, 2022, 12:57:02 pm
Whisky galore

"I couldn't comment on the grade of the stand, but I've added the sit at 6C."

- a classic, recently used to full effect at Earl crag.

36chambers

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#22 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
May 05, 2022, 02:28:13 pm
I almost forgot about this one. Start a hip and happening clothing company... https://www.karma8a.com/ https://www.instagram.com/karma8a/

"Whiksy Galore 6C x Talisker" collab tees dropping next Friday. If you don't know where, you're already too late. 

SA Chris

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#23 Re: Favourite downgrading tactics??
May 05, 2022, 02:44:26 pm
That logo is possibly the shittest thing I've seen in quite a while.

130 euros for a teeny backpack is a steal though.

 

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