[Wellsy]

The Sheaf (the newer Heeley one) boulder is the best of a bad lot and the one which sees the most use. Because the council gave the builders a bit more scope to cater for actual climbers. The others are aimed largely at non climbers, who it turns out don't actually climb, who knew.
But even the Sheaf boulder put too little emphasis on hold type number and orientation, instead putting effort into macro design and leaving the detail to the construction team.

Is that the double block one? When I was operating at about 6B max that was brilliant for me. I loved it. The steep slab around the back was a real feeling of success

[crimpinainteasy]

the acceptance of competition climbing as a ‘real deal’ has increased massively in the past decade

Only up to a point. Who remembers old comp results? Only the occasional exceptional one. If you want your talent to leave a legacy it is first ascents on rock all the way. Of course if people become uncompetitive at comp climbing by, say, 25, that could leave time for both. But people will still be mindful of not leaving their exit too late.

I think you're out of touch with the younger generation of climbers. I would be willing to bet money more climbers under 25 know who Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki, and Janja Ganrbret are than who know about the likes of Ron Fawcett, Johnny Brown, and Alan Watts.

[yetix]

Free Solo I.e the 4th best climbing film of all time

(3rd best is Rampage, 2nd best is Fear and Loathing, best is the footage of Nalle doing BoD)

Err, The Real Thing....

+1

And like half the dosage films

[Wellsy]

I'm rewatching it now while pretending to do some work and yeah it is sick

Great soundtrack

[Nails]

Masters of Stone 1 --- Obviously!

[SA Chris]

I'm rewatching it now while pretending to do some work and yeah it is sick

Great soundtrack

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3787.125.html subject of much discussion...

[danm]

Importance is purely subjective, participation is hard data and is a useful measure, but sure, aspiration is an important aspect and is one reason why part of the GB Climbing & BMC work isn't just about getting medals, but reduced barriers for those who want to try other aspects of the sport, whether that's climbing outside, becoming a coach, or anything else. Which you'd know if you'd read the various strategic plans which are publicly available.

Fully agree with this and helping with that transition is something that BMC have done well.

My daughter did a few of the BMC/DMM youth meets that Caff organised. They were brilliant; £40 to drop your teenager off at a club hut for a weekend of climbing with pros and surviving for themselves.

Unfortunately I can't see them on the BMC website for this year. Hopefully it is just a temporary COVID absence.

Edit: just seen on his Instagram that he ran one last weekend

Yeah, more scheduled this year, they'll be on the events calendar once confirmed. One of the really good things here is we are starting to get experienced young trad climbers who came on these meets a few years ago return to help lead on them.

[wasbeen]

Importance is purely subjective, participation is hard data and is a useful measure, but sure, aspiration is an important aspect and is one reason why part of the GB Climbing & BMC work isn't just about getting medals, but reduced barriers for those who want to try other aspects of the sport, whether that's climbing outside, becoming a coach, or anything else. Which you'd know if you'd read the various strategic plans which are publicly available.

Fully agree with this and helping with that transition is something that BMC have done well.

My daughter did a few of the BMC/DMM youth meets that Caff organised. They were brilliant; £40 to drop your teenager off at a club hut for a weekend of climbing with pros and surviving for themselves.

Unfortunately I can't see them on the BMC website for this year. Hopefully it is just a temporary COVID absence.

Edit: just seen on his Instagram that he ran one last weekend

Yeah, more scheduled this year, they'll be on the events calendar once confirmed. One of the really good things here is we are starting to get experienced young trad climbers who came on these meets a few years ago return to help lead on them.

Fantastic! It is a great scheme and everyone involved should be proud.

[Bonjoy]

the acceptance of competition climbing as a ‘real deal’ has increased massively in the past decade

Only up to a point. Who remembers old comp results? Only the occasional exceptional one. If you want your talent to leave a legacy it is first ascents on rock all the way. Of course if people become uncompetitive at comp climbing by, say, 25, that could leave time for both. But people will still be mindful of not leaving their exit too late.

I think you're out of touch with the younger generation of climbers. I would be willing to bet money more climbers under 25 know who Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki, and Janja Ganrbret are than who know about the likes of Ron Fawcett, Johnny Brown, and Alan Watts.

I'm a long way over 25 and I have no idea who Alan Watts is.

[Wood FT]

the acceptance of competition climbing as a ‘real deal’ has increased massively in the past decade

Only up to a point. Who remembers old comp results? Only the occasional exceptional one. If you want your talent to leave a legacy it is first ascents on rock all the way. Of course if people become uncompetitive at comp climbing by, say, 25, that could leave time for both. But people will still be mindful of not leaving their exit too late.

I think you're out of touch with the younger generation of climbers. I would be willing to bet money more climbers under 25 know who Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki, and Janja Ganrbret are than who know about the likes of Ron Fawcett, Johnny Brown, and Alan Watts.

I'm a long way over 25 and I have no idea who Alan Watts is.

Hangdog Days is worth a read in that case. Too much time fettling not enough nerding.

[mrjonathanr]

I'm a long way over 25 and I have no idea who Alan Watts is.

Developer of Smith Rock, father of US sport climbing.

[Oldmanmatt]

the acceptance of competition climbing as a ‘real deal’ has increased massively in the past decade

Only up to a point. Who remembers old comp results? Only the occasional exceptional one. If you want your talent to leave a legacy it is first ascents on rock all the way. Of course if people become uncompetitive at comp climbing by, say, 25, that could leave time for both. But people will still be mindful of not leaving their exit too late.

I think you're out of touch with the younger generation of climbers. I would be willing to bet money more climbers under 25 know who Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki, and Janja Ganrbret are than who know about the likes of Ron Fawcett, Johnny Brown, and Alan Watts.

I'm a long way over 25 and I have no idea who Alan Watts is.

I think he ran the pub in Eastenders, circa 1987.

[webbo]

the acceptance of competition climbing as a ‘real deal’ has increased massively in the past decade

Only up to a point. Who remembers old comp results? Only the occasional exceptional one. If you want your talent to leave a legacy it is first ascents on rock all the way. Of course if people become uncompetitive at comp climbing by, say, 25, that could leave time for both. But people will still be mindful of not leaving their exit too late.

I think you're out of touch with the younger generation of climbers. I would be willing to bet money more climbers under 25 know who Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki, and Janja Ganrbret are than who know about the likes of Ron Fawcett, Johnny Brown, and Alan Watts.

I'm a long way over 25 and I have no idea who Alan Watts is.

Next you’ll be claiming you never heard of Charlton Chestwig.

[andy popp]

I'm a long way over 25 and I have no idea who Alan Watts is.

Developer of Smith Rock, father of US sport climbing.

Famously drove straight past the Tor, convinced that couldn't possibly be it.

[Wellsy]

Moo I can't believe you puntered my objectively correct opinions. You'll rue the day.

[petejh]

Who's Will Bosi again? Was he in the olympics doing that speed climbing? Great that.

[Will Hunt]

Who's Will Bosi again? Was he in the olympics doing that speed climbing? Great that.

He's got fingers as strong as legs.

[Moo]

Sorry Wellsy but you can’t just wade into such an emotive and important topic with absolutes like that. This sort of thing needs a thread entirely of its own at the very least.

[shark]

Sorry Wellsy but you can’t just wade into such an emotive and important topic with absolutes like that. This sort of thing needs a thread entirely of its own at the very least.

That would be good - with a poll

[cowboyhat]

Free Solo I.e the 4th best climbing film of all time

(3rd best is Rampage, 2nd best is Fear and Loathing, best is the footage of Nalle doing BoD)

This fully triggered me before i recognised it as sarcasm.

[Doylo]

No poll needed.

[danm]

Well that escalated quickly...

[Will Hunt]

Unbelievably this masterpiece has only had 14 views in 10 years.

[Doylo]

Unbelievably this masterpiece has only had 14 views in 10 years.

Made in the days before climbing films were in cinemas unfortunately. Some things can only be done justice on a big screen.

[Danny]

Honestly almost choked on my tea hearing Brandenburg Gate being mentioned in the context of legacies and what people think is important. NO ONE CARES.