[shark]

Well that’s the rumour.

If true can anyone confirm and give the background.

[Adam Lincoln]

Well that’s the rumour.

If true can anyone confirm and give the background.

Sure I read an interview where he said he wanted to spend time on rock?

[remus]

He's taking some time off from comps to establish more desperates at the tor. Looking forward to Belly of the Beast in to Mutation for the worlds second 9c.

[shark]

He’s out with Ondra at the moment I think

[edshakey]

Is that why he only did day 1 at CWIF?

Flashing 30/30 qualifiers and then dropping out is a brilliant way to assert dominance. Semis not even worth his time?

[shark]

Is that why he only did day 1 at CWIF?

That’s what I heard

Flashing 30/30 qualifiers and then dropping out is a brilliant way to assert dominance. Semis not even worth his time?

Heard he also put in a similar performance at the recent GB team selection event

[wasbeen]

GB climbing in its current form is broken.

The development squad has 111 members this year! It is simply too many and there is not that depth in talent among the yoof.

Far too much effort (and cost) goes into the selection, governance, and administration and the tail is wagging the dog.

There should have been a place for Will in the team even if he decided not to compete for a while - if he is climbing hard outdoors, it will benefit him and GB Climbing in the long term. He is one of only a small handful of world-class climbers in the GB setup. I suspect he has chosen not to be in the team as it simply offers no benefits, which is a pretty damning indictment.

[SamT]

I did wonder why he'd dropped out of the semi - I assumed he'd injured himself or something.   Seems this is much more political.  (or are we making it far more political than it is). 

[remus]

(or are we making it far more political than it is). 

Pretty sure he just wants to focus on rock for a bit.

[SamT]

I suppose the weather was just mint yesterday and I can totally understand wanting to not spend the afternoon in the works, and actually go out climbing.

[remus]

There should have been a place for Will in the team even if he decided not to compete for a while - if he is climbing hard outdoors, it will benefit him and GB Climbing in the long term. He is one of only a small handful of world-class climbers in the GB setup.

Out of interest, what do you think would be the benefits of him being on the squad if he's not planning on competing? Presumably there's costs associated with having someone on the team so why not put that money towards someone who is actually planning on doing comps?

[Wellsy]

Day 1: clean sweep, max points

Day 2: sack off the comp to go sport climbing with Ondra. Team GB? Not bothered mate.

What an unbelievable flex

[mattbirddog]

Hiya,

- Yep, Will is off to Czech to climb the lime routes out there as they look right up Will's street.
- CWIF, agreed - awesome flex and judging by the amount of skin removed from the athletes in Semi's and Finals (despite being great problems to watch), he made the right call to skip it and head out to Czech.
- Will is taking this year off comps to focus on rock. From a fan / climbing spectators point of view, since making that decision he has smashed through the Tor and is climbing the best I have seen him climb so psyched to see how he gets on in Europe.
- GB Climbing. Will won the boulder selection event for Moscow World Champs last year but wasn't selected for the squad so go figure but guess we need to respect the process that GB are trying to put in place. He did not compete at this seasons GB Selection event but there is a strong group of hungry young talent coming through on the men's side so excited to see how the team perform this year. Will be up to Will to decide if he goes back to compete for selection but that is for another time.

I will try and pop a press release together for you all as I know you all bloody love it ;-)

Cheers,

Matt

[teestub]

Well I think that might be a first for UK climbing, someone’s PR person responding on their behalf!

Although Jerry probably got there first in the ‘90’s 😄

[wasbeen]

There should have been a place for Will in the team even if he decided not to compete for a while - if he is climbing hard outdoors, it will benefit him and GB Climbing in the long term. He is one of only a small handful of world-class climbers in the GB setup.

Out of interest, what do you think would be the benefits of him being on the squad if he's not planning on competing? Presumably there's costs associated with having someone on the team so why not put that money towards someone who is actually planning on doing comps?

Benefits of being in the squad could be, training camps, specialist coaching (nutrition, psychology, physio), help with travel costs etc. I am sure these things happen to a limited degree but are very unlikely to be better than Will can get from his own team.

It depends on what the purpose of the GB teams are. If it is to win medals at the World Cups and Olympics,  then you would be looking to support climbers with that type of potential. The mix and match approach of rock and plastic has worked well for Ondra and has given him a long and successful career without too many injury problems. As Matt says - there is some strong talent coming through on the men's side but realistically it is maybe 3 or 4 climbers with potential (including Will) in the next year or so. The Woman's side is looking much more sparse even looking forward to the next 4 or 5 year.

From my knowledge of a lot of the GB top climbers coming through the youth ranks, being in the GB team, has not been especially beneficial, with practically all coaching input via individual relationships.

In the past, one thing you could say about the GB teams, was that they did not get too much in the way of climber doing well in their own way. However, the selection processes now, are onerous and require a heavy competition load. For many, the main aim of the year will be to get selected for next year.

To me, the core issue is that the elitism that is required to win medals in sport does not sit well with the inclusivity mantra of the BMC.

[mr chaz]

I like to imagine Bird briefing Will, as he pulls on for his 20th set of 4x4s in his secure underground training facility, on the social media reaction to their latest stunt. Will, cackling as he wipes the sweat from his brow, before bellowing TOWEL! Ya useless feck!

[mattbirddog]

Well I think that might be a first for UK climbing, someone’s PR person responding on their behalf!

Although Jerry probably got there first in the ‘90’s 😄

Jerry is such a total legend, he almost certainly wouldn't have needed any additional PR or Marketing support!

[mattbirddog]

I like to imagine Bird briefing Will, as he pulls on for his 20th set of 4x4s in his secure underground training facility, on the social media reaction to their latest stunt. Will, cackling as he wipes the sweat from his brow, before bellowing TOWEL! Ya useless feck!

Yep, nailed it. That is the exact dynamic between us. 

[abarro81]

I suspect he has chosen not to be in the team as it simply offers no benefits, which is a pretty damning indictment.

I'm not sure why this is a damning indictment if he wants to go climb outside? I'm not aware of Bouin being on the French team for the sake of it, or Woods in the US, or those youngish strong Spanish 9b crushers who don't climb inside much and whose names I always get mixed up (Jorge and the other guy)? Or are they "in the team system" as it were in order to get something from it and I've missed that? Should GBClimbing be putting Josh Ibbo into the team system somehow even if he's not doing comps because he's likely to be world class on rock in the next few years? What would they give him? Money to go climb outside? I'm a bit confused about what you're advocating...

P.s. I think Remus was asking what the benefit to the team would be of funding someone who wasn't doing comps, not what the benefits to Will could be, especially given that he still trains with team members down the School etc.

[wasbeen]

I suspect he has chosen not to be in the team as it simply offers no benefits, which is a pretty damning indictment.

I'm not sure why this is a damning indictment if he wants to go climb outside? I'm not aware of Bouin being on the French team for the sake of it, or Woods in the US, or those youngish strong Spanish 9b crushers who don't climb inside much and whose names I always get mixed up (Jorge and the other guy)? Or are they "in the team system" as it were in order to get something from it and I've missed that? Should GBClimbing be putting Josh Ibbo into the team system somehow even if he's not doing comps because he's likely to be world class on rock in the next few years? What would they give him? Money to go climb outside? I'm a bit confused about what you're advocating...

P.s. I think Remus was asking what the benefit to the team would be of funding someone who wasn't doing comps, not what the benefits to Will could be, especially given that he still trains with team members down the School etc.

My point is the current system is not supporting world-class climbers who want to compete (I don't think Josh has shown much desire in competing yet). As has been demonstrated this year, Will has got stronger from not competing. This is good for the GB Team in the long term if/when he competes again. Matt has suggested that Will would have been keen to compete in bouldering if selected. So it is not that he didn't want to compete.

If you are aiming for medals at a world level, I would advocate a system that gives more flexibility to the top-level climbers on the mix of climbing that they do. In the future, if there is sufficient funding that GB Climbing can pay for competition expenses, coaches and stipend, then I think they are in stronger position to be more prescriptive. In the meantime, I am inclined to trust Will's judgement on what he needs to do to be the "best" than GB climbing's view.

[lukeyboy]

Well I for one am excited about seeing Will throw himself at Ondra's grotty Czech limestone creations, as is Ondra I bet!

[shark]

Yep, nailed it. That is the exact dynamic between us. 

 

So what’s the lowdown Matt? Did he walk or was he pushed out?

[Stu Littlefair]

Erm, I wonder if digging for dirt on an online forum is really the best idea here.

There are only two possibilities:

 - Will is just more interested in outdoor climbing
 - Will wants to compete and be on the team, but is not because of some disagreement

If it's the former, there's no story here. If it's the latter, digging around in public might just stir up shit and make things awkward for Will if he wants to compete at a later stage. Maybe if folk are desperate to know all the gossip, some PMs or conversations at the wall might be more appropriate?

[Bradders]

- GB Climbing. Will won the boulder selection event for Moscow World Champs last year but wasn't selected for the squad so go figure but guess we need to respect the process that GB are trying to put in place.

Cheers for the info Matt. This bit though....what?! How on earth would that happen?

[mattbirddog]

What Stu says!

Will has taken a year off, we all get to enjoy him climb loads of hard lines outdoors and then argue about the grades, happy days.

Plus we get the fun bonus game of 'would Will have topped that' when we watch World Cups - endless amounts of armchair climbing fun.

Si - always down one of the Sheffield walls sat at the bottom of something I cannot climb. Including some times a set of stairs if I did something stupid like go for a run. Always happy to chat!