[Yossarian]

It looks like I might have a chunk of time to get away climbing at the end of the year and I'm keen to figure out all the good options in an effort to maximise the chances of having a very good time. And hopefully start doing these sorts of trips a bit more often...

Kids and their mum are off to Tasmania to visit grandparents and though we had talked about me joining them at some point to climb there, I think the kids are still too young to make that worth it. Plus I will prob get sucked into sitting around in Hobart eating and drinking too much in the sun, so think I'll leave that for a few more years.

It's looking like they're leaving around the 9th, so potentially I might be able to escape for 3-4 weeks. The easy / straightforward option would be to go somewhere like El Chorro and do a load of fun sport climbing. Ditto Catalonia for chillier sport and bouldering. But I'm wondering whether that would actually be more fun than a more targeted / shorter trip.

My current favoured option is Frey (https://blog.arcteryx.com/brette-harrington-rock-climbing-in-frey/) - dunno if anyone on here has been, but I'd be keen to hear about it if you have. I spent some time mountain biking around there in the mid 2000s and really liked the area, plus it's quite quick / easy to get to, and it sounds like it's quite easy to pick up partners at the refugio, as well as doing stuff solo if necessary.

I imagine Potrero Chico would be another possibility. However, I really don't like spiders, so if big fuck off hairy ones are wandering around everywhere and jumping out of pockets I think i would find that quite traumatic.

I'm sure there are some places in the US that might work, plus elsewhere in south America.

Main criteria are potential to pick up some partners (unless anyone fancies teaming up), not loads of travelling hassle, adventurous (could be something other than trad or mountains, etc), fairly stable weather.

Any thoughts?

[SA Chris]

If you have 3-4 weeks, I'd definitely try and get out of Europe if you can afford it. Southern Spain should be good, but it could be cold and damp, and best saved for a shorted trip in nicer weather.

I'd personally go for the SW US, easy to get around, good for partner hook ups, good guidebooks, and option of locations, type of climbing and rock types and logistics of eating and places to stay are incredibly easy. Plus no shortage of non-climbing options (NPs etc for rest  / non-climbing days).

[spidermonkey09]

Don't let me tell you what to do, but I'd give serious thought to going to Tassie. 3/4 weeks doing a bit of climbing and drinking in Hobart/doing some amazing solo bushwalks sounds amazing to me. I spent a few months there and loved it. There is a decent facebook group which is good for partners in Hobart and everyone is incredibly friendly. The climbing is also amazing.

In the highly unlikely event you struggle to get partners you could have a great trip walking or just exploring. You could also combine it with a few weeks at Arapiles, followed by a few in Hobart.

[SA Chris]

Won't Arapiles be roasting in December?

[Yossarian]

I am kind of tempted by that, but I've been before for a few weeks (agree that it's an awesome place) and preferred the idea of waiting to go back for a more committed trip. But the facebook group thing sounds v promising, and I could combine it with doing something similar staying with friends in Perth. Hmmm...

[spidermonkey09]

Won't Arapiles be roasting in December?

I've climbed there in November. You obviously want the shade, but it's manageable. Depends what you're after I guess.

I am kind of tempted by that, but I've been before for a few weeks (agree that it's an awesome place) and preferred the idea of waiting to go back for a more committed trip. But the facebook group thing sounds v promising, and I could combine it with doing something similar staying with friends in Perth. Hmmm...

Perth was harder to get partners I found but the beaches are so good it doesn't really matter.

[Johnny Brown]

I would be tempted by Tassie too, though I've not been. Loads of inspiration: https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/adventures_at_the_edge_of_the_world_-_a_history_of_tasmanian_rock_climbing-12706

Not been to Frey but have done some solo travel in Patagonia. I would consider adding Fitz Roy and maybe Paine to your agenda, if only to sight see (assuming you've not been). Picking up partners would be no problem in El Chalten, although Dec is early season.

[SA Chris]

Won't Arapiles be roasting in December?

I've climbed there in November. You obviously want the shade, but it's manageable. Depends what you're after I guess.

Maybe I've lost tolerance, but in May there were times when it was too hot. Plus if you aren't keen on bugs and things it's best avoided.

[SA Chris]

Perth was harder to get partners I found but the beaches are so good it doesn't really matter.

Can always just get to the bouldering wall and get on willackers problems and go fishing.

[spidermonkey09]

Plus if you aren't keen on bugs and things it's best avoided.

You might as well apply this to the whole of Australia! If Araps is too hot then, then Perth definitely will be. Wouldn't be surprised if it was 40 degrees in Perth in December.

[SA Chris]

I wasn't recommending Perth btw. If you are visiting Oz for climbing it doesn't look to be high on the priority list.

Anyway, will you be mainly focusing on sport climbing Yos?

[Yossarian]

I've climbed in WA a couple of times in the distant past and liked it a lot. One of my dad's mates did a load of development and new routing in the 70s and I climbed with him and some of his mates last time I was there, but he's nearly 80 now. Both trips originated with the intent to climb lots but ended up being somewhat compromised by Perth bars, Margaret River wineries and recovering on the beach.

I had considered El Chalten too - I think Dec is probably ok for Frey but poss a bit early for the former, but the idea of tacking on a week to explore / have a look is pretty appealing. Would need to give some serious thought to acquiring some sort of exotically-knitted hat and a tin whistle...

Perth - I have a good mate there who I've not seen for a while which is why I was considering it. Margaret River wasn't too hot at NY the last time, and Albany might be cooler.

Def more interested in trad and bigger stuff than sport.

[spidermonkey09]

Yeah, its definitely good. I rated Wilyabrup in particular. Never got to West Cape Howe which also looked amazing, very adventurous. Lack of 4WD didn't help! I also had a really good day in the Porongorups doing a route on Bluff Knoll.

I want to go back now!

[dunnyg]

I went to WA as a kid on a non climbing trip. I have great memories of adventuring in the porongorups and gashing my arm open, and getting bollocked by teachers for soloing some easy granite(?) FAs on the coast in trainers.

I'd go for some of the Patagonia options,  another option down there is Cochamó valley. Looks rad, not sure on best time to visit or how easy to get partners.

If you do end up round there, I'd walk up one of the cool looking volcanoes too. Some of them are like what you would draw as a kid but with snow on.


Travelling to Patagonia does take an age though.

[Johnny Brown]

I think Cochamó is a bit of a trek just to get to the valley with limited facilities at the trailhead, I think picking up partners would be highly unlikely. Paine is similar but more popular.

Worth noting there is decent bouldering and cragging in El Chalten though not worth travelling for.

I didn't think getting to Patagonia was a bad as Australia, and the jet lag is much less. 

[Ged]

Loads of stuff in SW USA would probably fit the bill (j tree, Indian creek, bishop, cochise stronghold?). The only thing we found with that area after mid November is that the nights are very long, and pretty cold. So camping can get a bit grim. It'd be amazing if you don't mind that, or could find the occasional place to stay

[Yossarian]

I was wondering about that. I love the idea of going to those places (assume red rocks would be another possibility) though the logistics are probably slightly more involved.

I read about Cochamo a while back (I explored a bit around there too years ago, inc riding my bike up the Osorno volcano) but it does sound like a better place to visit as a team vs alone.

[seankenny]

Is Hueco still worth a visit despite the restrictions? Not entirely sure it’s a December place but if it’s dry and sunny then surely okay.

It also fulfils the essential criteria of being a “not very good/practical for a fortnight-long trip”.

[SA Chris]

Yeah, you would want to avoid camping, but there is a profusion of cheap off peak accommodation, provided you are not trying to get a room in Vegas on a weekend.

Red Rocks has everything you would want from bouldering and single pitch trad to sport climbs and multipitch epics. Loved the place, and the contrast of leaving the hotel in the morning to have a great day out and come back dusty, thirsty and tired and the same people are still sitting feeding the same slots is quite amazing.

[Coops_13]

As others have said the US has a lifetime worth of climbing to fit in in December. From a bouldering perspective, all of the below is in season:

 - Bishop
 - Hueco
 - Red Rocks
 - The South (Tenessee, Alabama, Georgia)
 - Joshua Tree
 - SW Utah (Moe's Valley, Mario Land) -> Joe's can be good if warm December
 - Unaweep Canyon (in W Colorado)
 - Roy (New Mexico)

Could easily hit most of that in a roadtrip depending on time:
Bishop -> Red Rocks -> SW Utah -> Joe's -> Unaweep -> Roy -> Hueco

[SA Chris]

Yeah that should do you for 4 weeks months years lifetimes.

[SA Chris]

- SW Utah (Moe's Valley, Mario Land) -> Joe's can be good if warm December

If it is cold at Joe's then Triassic / Land of a Thousand Boulders is nearby and lower /  warmer.

[Yossarian]

Wow. That would be quite a dream trip...

So it looks like I need to have a long hard look in the mirror and start trying to decide between rent-a-car radness tour vs Patagonian tin whistle tradfest vs chilled Margaret River semillon sauvignon.

[Paul B]

- Red Rocks

Red Rocks is amazing (I also got married there) but last time I visited I found the bureaucracy, coupled with its popularity really limiting. Stupid things like not being able to leave a car adjacent to the main highway (not in the loop) for 24H, late exit passes etc.

It made some of our objectives an absolute PITA.

[Ged]

If you have somewhwre to stay, bishop area is just ace. Obviously the bouldering, but there's some brilliant granite cragging around too.

If it was me, I'd get a cheap pad in moab, and turn into a crack wad for 4 weeks.