[Duma]

M - 2 hours on my back in the mud scraping antifouling. Must be worth something, core and shoulders?
T - another hour scraping. Couple of hours at the beach, incl brutally cold swim.
W - 2 more hours scraping. This isn't feeling like a rest week...
T - drive back to Bristol. Can still feel the scraping in my forearms.
F - Wyndcliffe, really nice to be out, and perfect sheltered spot to enjoy the sun, tops off for a couple of hours! Great views too. 5+ 6b+ 7a 7a 5+ 7a 7a+, all OS.
S - 12hr shift. 2m plank.
S - 12hr shift. 1m plank with 12 press ups (pitiful failure at Bring Sally Up challenge)

71.5kg

[yetix]

M Hangar Sandhills. Busy and humid! Board, started on the problem from the previous session, did the crux second go, but kept greesing off the move before. Moved on after 20 mins, tried my longest standing project and gradually kept getting closer to linking the crux before out of no where going to the end. Psyched as I've been trying this/2 easier variations of it over 7 sessions... Already figured out a harder start and finish to try and add it it. Tried a new moderate put on the board and did in halves to finish.
T rest
W rest
T cave, repeated rocka eventually, lots of foot pops though, made a start on Hatch lots more footpops! Eventually got to the flake from Hatch but this was near 3h into the session so called it there, hopefully should start to all come together as I up the frequency here, going to try to gradually move lower in my warm up and try to increase the overlapping halves from both the start and how far I get over a few sessions and hopefully build fitness to link it all. All the moves individually felt easier than ever, just powering out and feet pinging annoyingly.
F rest
S rest
S bowderstone, repeated the ramp, picnic and impropa first go, spent about 30 mins getting moves 2-4 re wired so I could link them consistently again and then took another 30 mins before I could repeat move 1, managed to get into the stand on this go but power started to fade before the crimps. In the end managed to do the first move another 4 times (5/7 attempts after doing it the first time today) but couldn't get any futher. Psyched as feeling like all I need is a bit of power endurance really as all the moves once wired felt the same as before or easier. A few foot pops but I think that's just getting used to rock again after a while away.

[csl]

Goals for February
- Do 90% of planned sessions - Planned rest week turned into two weeks 
- Lose 2kg - have lost ~1.5kg
- 3x days out on rock - 1/3 - not great, not terrible.

Tuesday
Short board session

Sunday
Cheddar with Duncan, amazing weather. Did a 6b at the remnant x2 then a few runs up Human Zoo, didn't have the beans to red point it but not far off

March Goals
- 3x days on rock
- Tick off Human Zoo
- Session on a 7C boulder

[Wellsy]

Deload week

Had a good long hard session on Wednesday, but rested Monday Tuesday Thursday and Friday

Saturday went to try Beta Blocker 7A at Anston, felt unrecruited, but worked out the moves and it will certainly go, very cool problem. I didn't use the high heel beta but instead some toes under the lip with a drop knee and then a more tension-y but open for the top. One of the best problem solving sessions I've had on lime

Sunday went to try Bumlog Millionaire. Didn't do it but contrary to the last few sessions when I went backwards, made massive progress. Did the stand without much trouble and did the crux move (which I spent entire sessions failing on) several times. Did a few goes from the sit, did the crux move...fluffed the mantel. Then was too tired to really get close again. But huge progress, very close, I'm confident I'll do it now. Extremely happy with that.

[James Malloch]

M. Acro yoga

T. Warm up, meant to do max hangs but has a really fun, hard board session instead. Then 1:10 on, 50s off to finish for 10 reps.

W.

T. Similar to Tuesday but did 6x10s max hangs with +20kg. Changed the aero cap to 1 on 1 off but tried to make the circuits a bit harder. Was feeling pretty ruined by rep 5 so the last 5 were a proper battle and largely on the easier holds.

F.

S. Crookrise. Warmed up and tried Jason’s roof. Too hard for me but a friend was keen. Manage the first moves but not strong enough on the wide compression to walk my feet around right and bump LH. Beautiful day to be out.

S. Fancy meal out for lunch and loads of TV to end the week

[Aussiegav]

A good week and nice to see the sun again by the end of it.

Monday -
Project Session on the 2016 Moonboard

Brief session at the School.
Splat Board traverses
Feet on Campusing
Campus board pulls 2-5- match
2-4-6 23mm
2-4-6 18mm

Warm up problems 3min rests.
Can’t Crimp Won’t Crimp
Calentmiento x3.
Warming Up.

Projecting
Valley Girl 6c Did this in under 20mins. Very generous for 6c.
You get a car. 6b+ benchmark. Did all the moves did overlapping links. Spent 30 mins on it.

Tuesday
Routes at Awesome Walls.
12 routes. Mainly 6a’s. Felt tired and bad lower back pain. No reason why.

Wednesday
30min  ride on the peloton


Thursday - Rest

Friday

Went to the School after work for a 60min session.
5 feet on Campus Pulls x6
Feet on Campus 2-4-6 x2
Feet on Campus 2-4-6 x2 18mm rung

Mileage on the 2016 Moonboard
3min rests between problems
✓ Can’t Crimp Won’t Crimp
✓ Calentamiento
✓ Warming Up
✓ Very Small Moves
✓ Crimps & the Blobs
✓ James Shame ❌✅
◦ Pull Yaself Up!Yay. ❌❌
◦ I like house & techno ❌❌
✓ Valley Girl❌✅
◦ AFC warm up 1 ❌❌





Saturday rest.
Took the 9yr old to Awesome Walls. He led 5 routes, 2nd time leading.  Two them in the main area. He and I were really proud.


Sunday

Predawn session at the School
Splat Board traverses
5 feet on Campus Pulls x6

Feet on Campus 2-4-6 x2
Feet on Campus 2-4-6 x2 (13mm)
3x 10s hangs BW+ 8kg.
Warm up problems
Can’t Crimp Won’t Crimp ✅
Warming’ Up ✅
Sushibomb. ✅

15min send session on 2016 Moonboard
◦ You get a car . 6b+ 2 good tries. First go came off last move. ❌❌
✓ RRDIE. 6b+ . 3rd try. Skipped 2nd last hold and went for a big cross over. Great move to finish.

Tried a 6c & another 6b+. But fingers were tired. So I worked the top half of You Get A Car. Had 3 goes. Hit the top once but didn’t match.

Conditioning
10s frenchies on repeater timer. 10:2 ratio.
4,4,3. (Number of locks at 90* & 120*)

Single arm Preacher curls
Great for stretching out my elbow.
5 reps 10kg ✅✅✅
Thrusters
10 reps bar only ✅
8 reps 10kg & bar ✅✅✅
Felt tired at the end. Great session, managed to do two more 6b+ on the 2016 set

Evening I did 45min HIIT ride on the Peloton

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T. Hip mobility routine. Better on my left then my right.
W.
T.
F.
S. 2 hour walk involving a muddy scramble up a steep hill carrying little one, good fun. Partner enjoyed it much less than us  . Decent board session in the afternoon, about 1.5 hrs. Had noticeably more 'snap' than previous sessions, might be because it was afternoon rather than early morning, which I've always preferred.

S. Most of the day repairing storm damage - replacing the rotten garden gate and posts after they blew down. Managed to sneak in another 1hour on the board afterwards, though felt pretty ruined. Attention turned to repeating easy problems and coming up with some projects instead. Finger pulp hurting today!

[shark]

Thanks Duma


11.7-9 average 162.0 down 1.8lb

M.

T. Tor. Windy. Did cross thru at second attempt and throw at first attempt but only got lip of crimp and couldn’t adjust followed by 6 failed attempts missing it. Then 3 attempts from start with decent goes at throw. Darren arrived and I interrogated him on his more standard way of doing it. Main snippet was how he  held the pocket deeper as a drag so will try that next session.

W.

T.

F. Nice day at last. Home warm up then Tor with Moritz. Met Mina there as she was keen to repeat Bens. Experimented with the pocket and found that dragging  with my mid finger stacked on top worked best and could almost do it statically - just needed an inch more reach. Still have to use the same low left foot due to poor hip flexibility - when I tried using the normal foothold its really awkward. Be good to have another go on  it holding the pocket that way but trying it more dynamically or find a way to get the extra inch. Similar story on the high drop knee for the cross through - can get my foot up to  the hold now but not able to drop my knee far enough to be useful. Plenty of reason to get stuck into the stretching and mobility routine. Soon got tired mainly trying the same move. Had a go on top rope on Tin Of doing it with a couple of falls (a gaston just below the crux has come off) but then did it clean next go.

S

S Fabulous weather. Went to Stanage Left Hand End with Goat and Roo to keep me company and worked back right soloing a batch of mega classics VS-E1 with the reassurance of a big pad. Sublime.

Time for a break from Bens and going to rest up till Friday.

Overall disappointed with lack of progress this time round (6 sessions) and didn’t get the link I was after (throw to end) but got some insights on what to work on (mainly mobility) Back was a bit fragile earlier in week but better now.

[Duma]

how tall are you Simon?

[shark]

Not as tall as I used to be. A bit under 5’9 last time I measured.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing. Not sparky. Circuit EMOM 5 moves x5 x6 blocks. Nice.
Tue - 20' garage session. Tired.
Wed - clean and static holds; farmer's static hold.
Thu - board climbing, tired. Very dry skin.
Fri - rest.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - Lattice edge 85%, cleans x3 60 kg, all x10.

[Bradders]

M - Baildon in the afternoon. Lots of run off on the problems up towards the North-Eastern end so disappointed not to be able to do those. Warmed up repeating Under Here then did Armageddon. Took a little while, found the move off the undercut quite knacky. Did eventually then a session on Pinch 32 sit. Got really close to this 2 years ago just before the first lockdown, dropping it in the stand on my best go. Didn't quite manage all the moves this time, the first move of the stand eluding me, but re-did the rest and made a couple of decent links. Worth another session soon.

Tu - cracking board session. Tried new problem set on Sunday and just about did all the moves. Very pleased it works and is both hard and good. Attempts on other things were decent, did a problem on the small feet for the first time, 3rd session, and had best ever go on an older project. Afterwards did weighted pull ups and then foot on campus ladders, 10x 1 on 1 off. Better than last session on this.

W - rest

Th - one arm hangs, Lattice edge, 6x 7s half crimp straight arm and 6x 7s half crimp locked off. -25kg assistance so a lot of weight off. Don't think I could have gone any less. Then boulder triples. Bit harder than before now on small feet and swapped out one of the problems for a slightly easier one on small feet, but still did pretty well, few failures on 2nd reps but did most of the 3rd reps. Finished with one arm rows and board Copenhagen planks.

F - rest

Sa - Ilkley to try the link up project again, after a few weeks away. Had hoped it would be a bit warmer, but the wind was blowing across the face and it was freezing. Almost didn't bother but wind dropped just enough to be bearable. First go managed a new high point, dropping the last hard move. This took a lot out of me and for some reason couldn't do the first move for a while. Had a bunch of goes in close proximity and eventually did the move, then powered out with 2 moves left before jugs. Had a good rest then got to the last hard move again, but couldn't quite get set for it and fell. Had one go at Calf Trav and got to the jugs but too pumped to finish.  Felt totally wiped after, probably due to the cold.

Su - pick up fingerboard, index and pinky mono and middle 2. Upped weights slightly. Then weighted pull ups superset with Arnold Press, and finished with aerocap 2x 5 on 3 off.

[Rocksteady]

Feb goal: Train ancap without getting injured
Weight goal: 71kg at 12% body fat.
This week I hit 71kg but at 14.7% bodyfat. So I have to bulk then cut?!

Mon: Rest

Tues: Son didn't nap so couldn't train

Wed: Did fingerboard max hangs instead of repeaters as had very limited time. Did bodyweight +17.5kg for a total hang of 89.5kg for 10 secs. Could have done more but baby was crying so had to stop.

Thu: On holiday, drinking & eating

Fri: Ditto. Went on a short walk.

Sat: Abandoned the group holiday for the day and went climbing at Haresfield. First time out on rock this year. An absolutely beautiful day, cool and sunny. Took my 4 year old for his first taste of outdoor climbing. Found it a little intimidatingly high in the main section with only one pad and no spotter. My son had a little play around which was fun. But then I got a bit grumpy with him running around and saying daddy repeatedly while I climbed. 
Later my missus took the boys off on a walk and I found the lower section of the crag and did a 6B+ traverse after a couple of false starts. Enjoyed the day but felt bad about being grumpy at my son! I will have to think better about how to manage outdoor climbing with him in future. Ate and drank a lot in the evening.

Sun: Went on a short walk. End of holiday, back to normal life! 

[duncan]

M - 10km walk
T - Shoulder conditioning: lock-offs, handstands, side-planks. Box-steps for 25 minutes. 10km walk.
W - Brief fingerboard warm-up. Westway autobelay: ~100 minutes, six sets of 9 minutes on and 9 mins off. 315m climbing at ~5+/6a, slightly pumped. 7km walk.
T - 10km walk
F - Brief fingerboard max. hangs. 13km walk. Shoulder conditioning.
S - 10km walk. Shoulder conditioning.
S - Cheddar/Remnant with csl. Glorious weather. Warmed-up on Das Goot Yah? Struggled on the polished sloping foothods and fell off when my foot slipped. Banged the medial epicondyle (the sticking out Golfer’s elbow bit) and possibly also strained it on the way down. Took the rest of the day off. Belayed csl, who was looking strong for a man that hasn’t touched rock since November. Jogged up and down Crook Peak on the way to Weston.

Elbow still looking a bit bruised today, was due for a rest week so stand by for more box-steps and possibly some slow shuffling.

[Duma]

You done the Crook Peak Cake Race duncan?
https://m.facebook.com/crookpeakcakerace
Sounds like you should...

[duncan]

You done the Crook Peak Cake Race duncan?
https://m.facebook.com/crookpeakcakerace
Sounds like you should...

Anything that starts at The White Hart in Cross has to be good!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Late club... Soz.

M: Rest
T: Easy routes @ AW - Got bored and did a F6c  | In other news, went to see Val Jones, an eminent shoulder and elbow specialist, who confirmed that my decision to not go for surgery on the SLAP tear in me shoulder was indeed the right one and gave me a few other rehab exercises to fit into my routine.... Ace!
W: Rest
T: AW with daughter - Did a few autos up to F6b+
F: Rest
S: AW with GF and daughter - Few up to F6c then tried a new F7b, did all the moved but couldn't be arsed with a RP
S: Horseshit with GF and daughter - F5 to F6a+, mainly to set up TR's for them but lovely to feel the sun on my back and touch real rock!

Decided to have a rest week as was feeling tweaky, may have overcooked it Tuesday but didn't stress owt and thankfully evertything feels pretty good this week - Ace!

[JohnM]

M - 6km walk.

T - Indoor bouldering session. 6km walk.

W - 6km walk.

T - Bouldering + campus laddering (2m01s, 2m01s, 1m23s, 1m02s, 54s  - 5 minute rests). 6km walk.

F - 6km walk.

S - Trail run 15.49km 404m.

S - Outdoor climbing. Tried an 8a+ called Klassik. Was nice to climb on rock again despite no red point.

Tried to go running again as my tendon was feeling good after a week off. However, after the long descents it blew up again and got very swollen. More weeks off needed.

[Duma]

Almost managed a normal week there John, broke at the weekend though!