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Verdon, much sooner than planned.... (Read 4526 times)

Fultonius

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Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 01:51:04 pm
Fuck periodised training....

So my plans have changed around due to partner knee issues, and we're no longer smashing in Alpine North Faces in March, but instead probably going to the Verdon. I've never been, but I'm imagining sustained vert tech?

Given I've spent the winter doing AnCap/Strength and only just moved into base endurance, I'm guessing the only option with such a limited window is to:

> Keep smashing the base endurance, mixing with some harder long circuits?

I'm probably going to just have to quickly get fit in the first week, and then do some hard stuff second week?

I'm not overly bothered about big grades, but also don't want to sqaunder all hopes of doing something hard-ish for us. Main aim for this year is still to increase my overall base and be on more of a "peak" for when I get back after another 2 weeks with the GF of random onsighting somewhere in Europe.

Also on holiday next week in Iceland so will likely only get a day's climbing in at the start/end of the week.


Teaboy

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#1 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 02:30:56 pm
The week in Iceland will be good acclimatisation for cold of Verdon. Which side are you going to?

duncan

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#2 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 03:07:28 pm
I've never been, but I'm imagining sustained vert tech?

Yes. And grooves/chimneys/cracks on the easier multipitch routes.

Hip flexibility for high-steps and frogging. Enough leg strength to use the flexibility.

Skin conditioning for sharp limestone.

Crimp and shallow pocket strength.

As much practice on real vertical small hold rock as possible, especially if it's a bit run-out. The Broomgrove Road wall or equivalent is a good alternative. Not sure what this counts as far as aero/an/cap/pow goes


Bradders

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#3 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 03:17:49 pm
With that limited a time period nothing you do will actually make that much of a difference. Just keep doing what you were doing and focus on the longer term.

Fultonius

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#4 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 03:21:18 pm
Which side are you going to?

Verdon or Iceland?

It's not cast in stone yet - still mulling options. It will be weather dependent, if it's not nice enough it'll be onwards to Spain I imagine...

I presume only the "sunny side" will be feasible in late March?


Yes. And grooves/chimneys/cracks on the easier multipitch routes.

Nice - my bread and butter!

Quote
Hip flexibility for high-steps and frogging. Enough leg strength to use the flexibility.

Skin conditioning for sharp limestone.

Crimp and shallow pocket strength.

As much practice on real vertical small hold rock as possible, especially if it's a bit run-out. The Broomgrove Road wall or equivalent is a good alternative. Not sure what this counts as far as aero/an/cap/pow goes

I'll deffo some some small edge hangs / careful full crimping on my fingerboard sessions in the run up. Hip flex is good, leg strength ok but I'll add some more one leg squats.

I'm fairly blessed with good skin.


With that limited a time period nothing you do will actually make that much of a difference. Just keep doing what you were doing and focus on the longer term.

 :agree: :goodidea:

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 04:04:16 pm

I presume only the "sunny side" will be feasible in late March?


Definitely, and even then I think routes starting from the bottom won't get any sun and also bear in mind the canyon rim is at about 800-900 m (?) or so, it's not going to be warm.

jwi

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#6 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 04:47:42 pm
Do the easiest boulder problems in the gym but use only two or one fingers on the holds. Take the holds in an active position, that is in half crimp, with the first phalanx hyperextended.

I always give this advice, because I have found no indications to the contrary.

Climb in the sun. Plan to be up on the rim before your sector goes into the shade.

52 years, 520 routes is the guidebook you need.


danm

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#7 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 05:31:00 pm
Take a spare pair of undies, you'll need them.

jwi

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#8 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 07:10:59 pm
Fête des Nerfs is in the sun until pretty late in the day and is amazing. The only difficult mandatory climbing is on the second to last pitch and consist of a finger crack in a groove.

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#9 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 07:56:38 pm
Gwendal is v good. Can recommend Farci pas là and liqueur de coco. Seance tenante and Polpot would be high on my hit list. 60-100m static will get you a lot of amazing toproping done too.

You can chase the sun round the top road, la route des crêtes. There are also more recently developed beefier sectors, not sure on details, in which case might be worth a bit of pinch grip training for tufas. It’s one of the best cliffs in the world. You can’t go wrong (unless you are not competent on hanging belays).

jwi

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#10 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 24, 2022, 09:04:40 pm
Pol pot is ace, and not at all polished! I thought 7c was pretty harsh. It was originally 7c+, which seems fair.

SA Chris

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#11 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 08:25:23 am
Eperon Sublime is great too, although I'm still annoyed I had to stand on a bolt when I thought I had completed the crux moves.

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#12 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 08:25:28 am
Contrary to what most seem to say I've never found Verdon to be runout. The occasional spaced bolts were usually in context of good holds or the possibility to place trad gear. La Demande is an exception which does have more spaced bolts but the climbing is easy enough to avoid falling in the runouts.

For a modern classic (and good for an afternoon or a day doing two routes) then check out Falaise de l'Imbut and specifically  'Ras Lebolchoi' which is a lovely 5 pitch 6c outing on interesting crimps and pockets. It gets sun in the afternoon. Pic here.

Fultonius

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#13 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 08:45:35 am
This thread is a goldmine as usual, thanks all!

SA Chris

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#14 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 09:00:20 am
https://www.climbing.com/news/alan-carne-british-expat-king-of-the-verdon/

Read about the "worst accident" section, and keep your mind in gear at all times. My friend and former climbing mate Emil is the "catcher" in the story..

MischaHY

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#15 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 09:10:30 am
https://www.climbing.com/news/alan-carne-british-expat-king-of-the-verdon/

Read about the "worst accident" section, and keep a knot in the end of the ab ropes at all times.

Fixed it for you  :great:

Fultonius

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#16 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 09:19:06 am
I'm usually a 'no knot' kinda guy, but might make an exception for the Verdon!


Ged

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#17 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 10:01:16 am
 My god I love the Verdon.

As others have said, do as much mileage on vertical, techy, old school stuff as you possibly can, and possibly a load of calf raises.. Make sure you've got comfy but decent shoes.

Ange en decomposition, and suveillir et punir... My god. It's hard to imagine how climbing gets much better.

MischaHY

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#18 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 12:12:47 pm
I'm usually a 'no knot' kinda guy, but might make an exception for the Verdon!

I am for singles but not on multis. So many people died this way. Absolutely not worth it IMO. It's really one of my red lines.

MischaHY

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#19 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 12:13:09 pm
My god I love the Verdon.

As others have said, do as much mileage on vertical, techy, old school stuff as you possibly can, and possibly a load of calf raises.. Make sure you've got comfy but decent shoes.

Ange en decomposition, and suveillir et punir... My god. It's hard to imagine how climbing gets much better.

This.

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#20 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 05:25:24 pm
I'm usually a 'no knot' kinda guy, but might make an exception for the Verdon!

Mind, although it looks pretty blank those juniper bushes/roots love to snag ropes!

When I came back from a decent length of time there I found myself frogging far lower than I did previously.

Also, having made this mistake once, take suitable shoes. For me this was a broken in pair of whites. Velcros just didn't cut it for me and my feet were incredibly sore.

I'd also do some research/planning of which routes you want to do and whether they're approached from the top and bottom. You can waste a lot of time getting it wrong.

The bar (Lou Cafe) used to be ok with you taking in pizzas from the little van which are fantastic.

It's definitely my favourite place to climb. Everything I'm not; big, bold and technical!

Ged

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#21 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 05:42:23 pm
As mentioned above, I definitely don't recall much in the way of spaces bolts. Maybe they sometimes feel a bit runout because of exposure and insecure climbing, but I never came across excessive spacing.

Elastic loops through your boot heel tabs and round your ankles for worry free boots off your heels at belays.

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#22 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 06:41:53 pm
I'm going to Iceland next week!

There is a actually a fairly decent wall in Reykjavik, the very literal Klifurhusi. Bouldering though and no circuit board which is maybe what you need....

I'll be based in Selfoss but was going to make time to drive over one evening. Whats your itinerary?

Fultonius

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#23 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 25, 2022, 11:16:43 pm
I'm going to Iceland next week!

There is a actually a fairly decent wall in Reykjavik, the very literal Klifurhusi. Bouldering though and no circuit board which is maybe what you need....

I'll be based in Selfoss but was going to make time to drive over one evening. Whats your itinerary?

Ha, no way!  We're doing a bit of a standard south coast/ golden circle tour. We're probably going to go to the wall on Sunday both weekends - maybe see you there? Send me a DM.

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#24 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 27, 2022, 06:48:42 am
It's definitely my favourite place to climb. Everything I'm not; big, bold and technical!

You small hairy thug  ;D

Elastic loops through your boot heel tabs and round your ankles for worry free boots off your heels at belays.
- what a great idea anywhere  :thumbsup:

I'd love to go back to the Verdon. Surveilleur et Punir has always been one of those mythical routes that have to be climbed - among many others. Soloed Debilof - but resorted to wearing boots. I got frustrated because I'd fallen off on easy ground the day before with a bit of a cold pump, so had to go back.
First routed there was L'Ange, with Ruth Jenkins. Would like to go back to do that again, as I wasn't climbing very well on it. Things definitely felt a bit different.

Good to hear people talking about the Verdon again.

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#25 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 27, 2022, 07:54:04 am
Your mention of Ruth Jenkins made me wonder who she was, it seemed familiar (I'd forgotten I'd listened to a JCPC featuring her).

It threw up this ukc thread, which is pretty with the benefit of having lived through the last 20 years: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/ruth_jenkins-27036

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#26 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 27, 2022, 05:06:13 pm
Have bumped into Ruth a couple of times recently.

Still climbing and teaching/coaching a bit.

Great that her natural ability took her up some great routes back then, and that she's still loving climbing now.
I knew she'd be very good  ;D

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#27 Re: Verdon, much sooner than planned....
February 28, 2022, 07:17:13 am

I'd love to go back to the Verdon. Surveilleur et Punir has always been one of those mythical routes that have to be climbed - among many others. Soloed Debilof - but resorted to wearing boots. I got frustrated because I'd fallen off on easy ground the day before with a bit of a cold pump, so had to go back.
First routed there was L'Ange, with Ruth Jenkins. Would like to go back to do that again, as I wasn't climbing very well on it. Things definitely felt a bit different.

Good to hear people talking about the Verdon again.

Get on it! Spring season is coming  :great:

Maddest thing about Verdon is how much hard FA potential there is. Obviously the classic vert stuff on the sunny side has been fairly explored, but the huge overhangs are barely touched in comparison despite being very featured. Take a drill  ;)

 

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