[abarro81]

I don't think there's anything special about 7:3, it's just easy because it makes a block of 10s! 7:5, 6:4, 10:5... obviously the more you increase the % time spent resting the more strengthy it becomes... I find longer rest needed on tweaky grips due to time spent carefully resetting fingers

[Rocksteady]

I don't think there's anything special about 7:3, it's just easy because it makes a block of 10s! 7:5, 6:4, 10:5... obviously the more you increase the % time spent resting the more strengthy it becomes... I find longer rest needed on tweaky grips due to time spent carefully resetting fingers

I have always found 7:3 quite tweaky which is why I've always done 5:5 or 6:4. From your descriptions on other threads Alex my finger problems sound quite similar to yours except I have started getting them from about 6c/7a rather than 8c!

I find if I put any torque through my fingers or twist them into holds the joints flare up. So on fingerboard I have to be careful to pull straight down if that makes sense.

I'm trying to train ancap, if there's nothing special about 7:3 timing I'll stick with the longer rests and maybe just up the hang duration and do 7:4 for starters.

[Fultonius]

An Cap can also be trained very effectively on a campus board, laddering up and down to create a
circuit; due to the faster movements than on a climbing wall this will involve more like 15-20 moves.
Training it on a fingerboard is likely to be less effective but it can be done: your ‘circuit’ is now 4
hangs of 7 seconds with 3 second rests between hangs.
This energy system responds best to increasing the difficulty or length of the circuit (still roughly
within the given boundaries) in order to increase intensity between sessions rather than reducing
the rest times used. This is where performing these exercises on a campus board really comes into
its own, since it’s very easy to steadily increase either the number of moves or the difficulty (simply
make 1 movement harder every session or move to smaller rungs).

^^^ why I should do more reading and less typing on subjects I'm not expert in...

[SA Chris]

Apologies if it's teaching elderly relatives about egg inhalation, but I thought it was 7:3 purely because it was reckoned 7 sec was how long it took to hang a hold to the next hand move, with 3 sec the time the hand was unweighted moving to the next hold.

[rginns]

M - Board session - good - minimised the warm up and got straight on to some of the harder problems on the board. Concentrated on trying hard and accurate foot and hand placements. Quick, decisive movements helped. Rocket science eh? 26 - 1hr20
T -
W - board session - climbing new problems - devised 2 new hardish circuit problems. Good sesh, but no new progress on the projects.
Went to the opticians and instead of a new pair of glasses I came out with an emergency referral to the eye hospital for a problem with retina. February keeps getting better...
T - rest
F - Eye hospital most of the afternoon, so no training. Diagnosed with CSCR, Fluid beneath the retina... no treatment but need to go back in 3 months. blurry eyesight for the next 6 hours due to the drops they put in!
S -
S - Run - jumbles loop. Only short but felt good to get outside, even if only running. Evening board session, again concentrating on trying hard - great session, 1hr 30

Didn't have too bad a week training wise, 3 good board sessions but I couldn't get motivated for the fingerboard. The eye problem is a concern especially as there's not much they can do except monitor but hopefully it won't develop. Apparently induced by stress but hey ho, not sure I can do much about that... roll on next week!