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The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates (Read 39912 times)


Bradders

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#26 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 08:35:51 am
I'm gutted to learn that The Prow is an eliminate.

I'd be claiming a first ascent if I were him.

Imagine the stick he’d be getting if he’d have done that.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343

Wonderful stuff  :lol:

Andy F

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#27 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 09:00:07 am
I'm gutted to learn that The Prow is an eliminate.

I'd be claiming a first ascent if I were him.

Imagine the stick he’d be getting if he’d have done that.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343

Wonderful stuff  :lol:

A three move variant at the top is hardly a new line. It's a fucking cop-out. A pointless eliminate.

Wellsy

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Kingy

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#29 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 09:14:16 am
 :lol: Funny stuff  :clap2: From a sport climber's perspective, sport routes do get eliminate monikers e.g. Anabolica 8a in Suirana has gained a variant in the local guide for those looping out left to the 'cheating' kneebar and then back onto the line, 'Anabolinga 7c+'. Not having seen the Prow close up, I couldn't possibly comment....  ;D

Adam Lincoln

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#30 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 09:32:05 am
:lol: Funny stuff  :clap2: From a sport climber's perspective, sport routes do get eliminate monikers e.g. Anabolica 8a in Suirana has gained a variant in the local guide for those looping out left to the 'cheating' kneebar and then back onto the line, 'Anabolinga 7c+'.

Id heard it called Alcoholica by some locals too. 🤣

reeve

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#31 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 09:57:28 am
A three move variant at the top is hardly a new line. It's a fucking cop-out. A pointless eliminate.

Just to check, that comment is directed at Will Bosi too yeah?

Bradders

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#32 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 10:04:55 am
Was Andy's FA just big grades for bad beta then?

36chambers

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#33 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 10:11:23 am
Was Andy's FA just big grades for bad beta then?

It's all his fault really for not staying true to the prow to the very top. Every ascent has been a cop out so far ;)

teestub

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#34 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 10:13:09 am
Was Andy's FA just big grades for bad beta then?

This bit is slightly confusing, as Franco has it at 8A at the top of his write up, but then describes it as ‘mid to high font 7’ (alongside Darkside and The Young) further into the description  :-\

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#35 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 10:36:10 am
Sounds like the thing's plastered in holds and with a big hug at the top. I'm on my way ... ;D

abarro81

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#36 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 10:50:00 am
Love the new name, bril!

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#37 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 10:53:15 am
There'll be one of them Dan Varian paragraphs along soon...

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#38 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 10:54:29 am
I'm gutted to learn that The Prow is an eliminate.

I'd be claiming a first ascent if I were him.

Imagine the stick he’d be getting if he’d have done that.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343

Wonderful stuff  :lol:

A three move variant at the top is hardly a new line. It's a fucking cop-out. A pointless eliminate.

Tone it down a bit Andy. The route is clearly named in jest. 

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#39 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 10:56:59 am
Its a boulder problem. 20 years ago with 3 pads maybe a route but nowadays with a stack of fallen branches and loads of pads its a boulder. Misericorde is one of the best lines in font, petit folie isnt misericorde, this isnt a mental struggle! Aretes can be 5+ on one side and 8B on another. If you are clearly climbing up a slab when all others are yarding on monos up an overhang you can just call it a better sequence with the Insta spin/lies, but using a pocket on the other side is only the same hold because its a pocket and when your at full span to to reach it with the other hand it's pushing the margins. I feel sorry for Andys routes getting this kind of treatment as it really isnt hard to climb this thing up the overhang. With the 8C+ strength from most of the youth coming through they can climb lots of highballs using loads of variations, coming in and out where they wish. We did this with careless, the whole line can be traversed into and out of easily, you can stem out the corner off superbloc into its top out and those are two of the peaks best lines. Its just classic worm tactics to claim the same climb but be climbing up a different face when repeating something like this. I mean basic bouldering 101 is that different sides of aretes are very different climbs, just because this one is rounded doesnt change things, the top section doesnt change much really as all the hard climbing ends at the good hold, its the section upto there which dodges all the steep that changes the problem. King of Shunts is a better name

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#40 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 11:12:03 am
There'll be one of them Dan Varian paragraphs along soon...

How prescient  :clap2:
King of Shunts also a great name.

cheque

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#41 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 11:22:52 am
It’s hilarious how upset people get about Franco.

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#42 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 11:23:56 am
I'm gutted to learn that The Prow is an eliminate.

I'd be claiming a first ascent if I were him.

Imagine the stick he’d be getting if he’d have done that.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343

Wonderful stuff  :lol:

A three move variant at the top is hardly a new line. It's a fucking cop-out. A pointless eliminate.

Christ you wouldn't get a joke if it slapped you in the face would you!

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#43 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 11:39:46 am
It’s hilarious how upset people get about Franco.

It is indeed, made more so by how little he seems to care. 

And Varian the Librarian is a brilliant name.

andy moles

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#44 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 12:16:25 pm
It is indeed, made more so by how little he seems to care. 

Not sure about that. Perhaps Franco will pop in to give his own 2p, but there's a difference between having a sense of humour and not caring. I don't think anyone who puts that much time into curating a social media presence doesn't care what people think. I don't mean that as a criticism.

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#45 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 12:31:53 pm
This is all very amusing  :lol:  Am I missing something here or did everyone else miss the Steve Crow post where he points out, (illustrated by an Insta photo sequence of Andy), that noone has repeated Andy's original sequence that avoids the 'good' hold out right? 
.... Back around everyone.

Wellsy

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#46 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 12:32:27 pm
Everyone gets their own E9, all to themselves

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#47 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 12:40:16 pm
This is all very amusing  :lol:  Am I missing something here or did everyone else miss the Steve Crow post where he points out, (illustrated by an Insta photo sequence of Andy), that noone has repeated Andy's original sequence that avoids the 'good' hold out right? 
.... Back around everyone.

Steve Crowe will know if my interpretation of this is correct...Andy used that hold, but the left side, with his right hand, and then finished on the long flute with his left. This follows 'The Prow' more directly. I think, thus far that all of the repeats have used that same obvious hold, but the right side of it with their left hand....  Happy to be corrected.

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#48 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 01:27:18 pm
This is all very amusing  :lol:  Am I missing something here or did everyone else miss the Steve Crow post where he points out, (illustrated by an Insta photo sequence of Andy), that noone has repeated Andy's original sequence that avoids the 'good' hold out right? 
.... Back around everyone.

Steve Crowe will know if my interpretation of this is correct...Andy used that hold, but the left side, with his right hand, and then finished on the long flute with his left. This follows 'The Prow' more directly. I think, thus far that all of the repeats have used that same obvious hold, but the right side of it with their left hand....  Happy to be corrected.

I thought he was referring to the ear shaped hold further right which Will and Dan take after they've gained the big hold with their left, I.e. to help set up for the move to the top.

remus

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#49 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 01:33:03 pm
This is all very amusing  :lol:  Am I missing something here or did everyone else miss the Steve Crow post where he points out, (illustrated by an Insta photo sequence of Andy), that noone has repeated Andy's original sequence that avoids the 'good' hold out right? 
.... Back around everyone.

Steve Crowe will know if my interpretation of this is correct...Andy used that hold, but the left side, with his right hand, and then finished on the long flute with his left. This follows 'The Prow' more directly. I think, thus far that all of the repeats have used that same obvious hold, but the right side of it with their left hand....  Happy to be corrected.

I thought he was referring to the ear shaped hold further right which Will and Dan take after they've gained the big hold with their left, I.e. to help set up for the move to the top.

For reference that's the hold Dan has with his right here https://youtu.be/meYWJdX-qhQ?t=155

Seems a pretty minor difference imo, but kinda ironic that Dan's sequence moves round on to the face more than Andy's and uses an extra pocket. I feel sorry for Andys routes getting this kind of treatment as it really isnt hard to climb this thing up the overhang. Its just classic worm tactics to claim the same climb but be climbing up a different face when repeating something like this. I mean basic bouldering 101 is that different sides of aretes are very different climbs, just because this one is rounded doesnt change things.
« Last Edit: February 06, 2022, 01:38:23 pm by remus »

 

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