Good effort for coming here and putting your side Franco.Quote from: Franco on February 10, 2022, 08:40:58 amI'd genuinely welcome guidance on what I should do in the future, as I basically just want to be able to go out with my pals and do my own thing, show it in a semi-cringe video and then not have huge levels of controversy surrounding it.I’d say, given the background, if you wanted to avoid controversy it would have been better to report that you’d found a new sequence on The Prow, acknowledged that some would consider this as not an ascent of the original line and offered your opinion on the grade of the new sequence. I.e. make this the news not the footnote. You’d then be in a good position to make your case that what you climbed should be included within the definition of The Prow. Announcing you’d done The Prow and then going into the qualifying details afterwards, in the context of the controversy around The Young, was inevitably going to lead to the type of discussion that followed. You don’t come across as being naïve to how social media works, and you’ve been in your fair share of lively online debates*. I’d expect you to know how these things go. Hence why I thought it was a stunt. Thanks for this. This is fair advice and something I'll try in the future. To me it was a footnote mind, as I just didn't think anyone in their right mind would consider this a new line. If I had been unsure whether what I'd done was a new route, I would have done as you say. *Which reminds me, have you climbed Dangermouse yet, and renamed it “Owning Jon Fullwood”? You asked to be nominated an E9 to climb in the Peak to prove your case that they were all piss. You said this would be “relatively little effort”, as all Peak E9s were “nowt but polished crappy boulder problems in the sky, where the inadequate court fame and the lunatics stroll by”. The bet is ten years old now. That hat still needs eating.
I'd genuinely welcome guidance on what I should do in the future, as I basically just want to be able to go out with my pals and do my own thing, show it in a semi-cringe video and then not have huge levels of controversy surrounding it.
Nearly went there the other day, but someone said conditions would be rubbish. Still never been to the crag. The bet's still on though. What are we betting?
Imagine what topos would look like in guidebooks if there were such slight variations recorded. It'd be ridiculous.
I think Steve and Varian have really misrepresented how different these sequences are
I thought I'd done the prow. The original line didn't actually stick to climbing the thing on the overhung side, so what difference did it make that I stepped right before, rather than after that mono pop? You can climb an overhung arete either on the overhung side, or on the slabby side. It's still a prow. Afterwards I did comment to my pals there that "people won't be happy i used a different sequence", but I firmly expected them to be a handful of people who don't get what makes a great line, as it seems blindingly obvious to me that the thing I climbed was the same as what everyone else had done. Imagine what topos would look like in guidebooks if there were such slight variations recorded. It'd be ridiculous.
I think Steve and Varian have really misrepresented how different these sequences are. .
Not read the whole thing yet but skimmed down and randomly landed here: QuoteThe first thing we need to decide is whether this line is a boulder problem or a route. As far as I'm aware, every prior ascent has been headpointed Err, no. All ascents so far have done it as a highball above pads. I.e., it's a boulder problem!
The first thing we need to decide is whether this line is a boulder problem or a route. As far as I'm aware, every prior ascent has been headpointed
Headpointing to me implies it's a route, but it's not as consensus is clearly to highball boulder it above pads.
Unfortunately if you want to spend more time out Trad climbing these days (and you're not minted), particularly on long term projects, you have to put yourself out in that way. If it's a choice between not getting the projects I want to do done (the next ones aren't going to work with a full time job), or a few dozen people on here thinking I'm a narcissist, then I'd choose the latter
Half this discussion is people trying to force square pegs into round holes.
A pegging controversy would really be the icing on this cake.
Fuck me, the prodigal one has returned.
At least Franco didn't bring out a vhs where his mate shows him a problem which is then "revealed" to have been recently climbed by an adversary in some clearly orchestrated attempt to throw shade. That's old school trolling at its finest. Still love that fat fucker despite how cringeworthy it was so I'm sure Franco is just fine.
Quote from: SA Chris on February 10, 2022, 06:12:44 pmFuck me, the prodigal one has returned.I’ve even been climbing 4 times since Christmas Chris!
Just want to pick up on the narcissism accusation here. Strikes me as a bit off. I mean, maybe it's true, but loads of us commenting on here put out videos, blogs, Instagram posts, and articles about stuff we've done. Pots and kettles all the way. Doylo, for example, made an entire half hour film about himself trying to climb an 8B. Don't get me wrong, it's a brilliant film, but still, it's fundamentally no different to Franco making films about stuff he's climbed.
Shades of this classic thread, where I think you can see it's not just Franco or using extra holds. You can even use less holds than your mates and still be held up as a cop-out cheat.
