UKBouldering.com

The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates (Read 40322 times)

Pope B

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 36
  • Karma: +8/-0
The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 03:55:37 pm
UKC logbooks saying someone climbed the Prow at Kyloe yesterday, any idea who? Profile hidden in logbooks

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4325
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#1 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 04:06:56 pm
Franco Cookson according to Instawank.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2875
  • Karma: +146/-1
#2 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 06:02:01 pm
UKC logbooks saying someone climbed the Prow at Kyloe yesterday, any idea who? Profile hidden in logbooks

Nice little write up from the man himself https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/

carlisle slapper

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 193
  • Karma: +114/-3
#3 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 06:16:41 pm
That's not the prow though is it... It's a direct to the pocket up the sidewall. If you watch the vid of bosi and compare the photos for people who haven't done it even from armchairs it's a mile apart. both climbers could climb on the two diff lines at the same time upto the pocket. Looks like a good new addition but the prow takes the line of the overhang upto level with the big pockets where it swings round and joins this.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2875
  • Karma: +146/-1
#4 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 06:38:20 pm
That's not the prow though is it... It's a direct to the pocket up the sidewall. If you watch the vid of bosi and compare the photos for people who haven't done it even from armchairs it's a mile apart. both climbers could climb on the two diff lines at the same time upto the pocket. Looks like a good new addition but the prow takes the line of the overhang upto level with the big pockets where it swings round and joins this.

Obviously a bit subjective, but to me it looks close enough to the original that it's more a different sequence on the same line. Seems a shame to start adding rules in to a pretty mint line.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2875
  • Karma: +146/-1
#5 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 08:13:38 pm
Little video of Franco's ascent.


Steve Crowe

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 199
  • Karma: +18/-1
  • Using knees since 1974
    • www.climbonline.co.uk
#6 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 08:46:17 pm
Just for interest and discussion I thought I should perhaps clarify that The Prow, as climbed by Andy Earl climbs up the steep prow until forced slightly right high up where it eventually finished as for Hostile Environment an E4 that traverses out across the wall from the corner. Dan and Will both use an extra hold on the right that Andy avoided. Franco has climbed direct to that good hold which is on  Hostile Environment. I've posted the sequence Andy climbed on Instagram for anyone who is interested.

ferret

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 549
  • Karma: +40/-4
#7 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 08:52:09 pm
That's not the prow though is it... It's a direct to the pocket up the sidewall. If you watch the vid of bosi and compare the photos for people who haven't done it even from armchairs it's a mile apart. both climbers could climb on the two diff lines at the same time upto the pocket. Looks like a good new addition but the prow takes the line of the overhang upto level with the big pockets where it swings round and joins this.

Obviously a bit subjective, but to me it looks close enough to the original that it's more a different sequence on the same line. Seems a shame to start adding rules in to a pretty mint line.

Firstly good effort! I kind of agree with Dan though, I mean it's called the prow. Climbing the wall to the right, all be it with same holds doesn't feel quite the same.
If it was in Font I think the historical sequence that more takes on the visual challenge of the line would remain the dominant one. This sequence would would probably gain its own moniker like Le Faux Proue, or Le Prouette, or whatever. Maybe a bouldering vs route climbing mindset.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4298
  • Karma: +345/-25
#8 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 09:00:44 pm
I broadly agree with ferret - on a route you'd call them different sequences on the same thing, as a boulder I'd probably call them different things by the looks of it. (Or as a boulder on lime there would be at least 2 different problems in between  :lol:)
« Last Edit: February 05, 2022, 09:21:34 pm by abarro81 »

countyyoungin

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Tim Blake
  • Posts: 45
  • Karma: +3/-0
#9 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 09:13:26 pm
I abbed down the prow last summer to give it a clean, the tree felling has resulted in some off the moss falling back revealing a massive jug at the top making the big lean over move redundant now really which is a bit of a shame.

jwi

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4234
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#10 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 09:14:31 pm
Le Faux Proue, or Le Prouette, or whatever.

(La Fausse Proue or La Prouette surely. Proue is feminine). Sorry.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5383
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#11 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 09:18:59 pm
Le Prout, obviously.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2802
  • Karma: +135/-3
#12 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 09:42:00 pm
That's not the prow though is it... It's a direct to the pocket up the sidewall. If you watch the vid of bosi and compare the photos for people who haven't done it even from armchairs it's a mile apart. both climbers could climb on the two diff lines at the same time upto the pocket. Looks like a good new addition but the prow takes the line of the overhang upto level with the big pockets where it swings round and joins this.

First thought when I saw Franco's post was I hope he didn't trav in from half height again, and yet here we are  :lol:

Watching Life on Hold back, and entirely from my armchair, they're clearly completely different boulder problems which share a finish. Doesn't mean what Franco did is easy though! I'd be claiming a first ascent if I were him.

Steve Crowe

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 199
  • Karma: +18/-1
  • Using knees since 1974
    • www.climbonline.co.uk
#13 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 09:46:19 pm
I abbed down the prow last summer to give it a clean, the tree felling has resulted in some off the moss falling back revealing a massive jug at the top making the big lean over move redundant now really which is a bit of a shame.

If you follow Andy’s sequence, staying closer to the prow and avoiding that good hold further right, then you will not need to do the big roll over moves as seen on Dan’s and Will’s videos.

Hacker

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 17
  • Karma: +2/-0
#14 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 10:07:41 pm
Just for interest and discussion I thought I should perhaps clarify that The Prow, as climbed by Andy Earl climbs up the steep prow until forced slightly right high up where it eventually finished as for Hostile Environment an E4 that traverses out across the wall from the corner. Dan and Will both use an extra hold on the right that Andy avoided. Franco has climbed direct to that good hold which is on  Hostile Environment. I've posted the sequence Andy climbed on Instagram for anyone who is interested.

Love to see these any chance of a link  :please:

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2875
  • Karma: +146/-1
#15 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 10:21:41 pm
Comparing Dan's sequence from life on hold and Franco's sequence the line just doesn't seem that different  :shrug:

Looks like Dan gets the pocket with his right and does a long move up left to a scatty pocket, whereas Franco gets the pocket with his left and does a move out right to a scatty pinky mono pocket. Other than that they seem to climb exactly the same line as far as I can tell? A couple of moves difference over a 10m line doesn't seem like enough to call it a new problem.

Life on hold footage for reference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Pd6vNv0etg?t=1307

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3392
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#16 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 10:24:10 pm
Earl

Varian/ Feehally:

Bosi:



Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +72/-1
#17 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 10:24:29 pm
I see the windthrow/windsnap have been put to good use evening out the landing!
What an ace bit of rock that is hey.

Little video of Franco's ascent.



Steve Crowe

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 199
  • Karma: +18/-1
  • Using knees since 1974
    • www.climbonline.co.uk
#18 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 10:24:45 pm
Just for interest and discussion I thought I should perhaps clarify that The Prow, as climbed by Andy Earl climbs up the steep prow until forced slightly right high up where it eventually finished as for Hostile Environment an E4 that traverses out across the wall from the corner. Dan and Will both use an extra hold on the right that Andy avoided. Franco has climbed direct to that good hold which is on  Hostile Environment. I've posted the sequence Andy climbed on Instagram for anyone who is interested.

Love to see these any chance of a link  :please:

Here it is: https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/?utm_medium=copy_link

Steve Crowe

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 199
  • Karma: +18/-1
  • Using knees since 1974
    • www.climbonline.co.uk
#19 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 10:28:21 pm
Comparing Dan's sequence from life on hold and Franco's sequence the line just doesn't seem that different  :shrug:

Looks like Dan gets the pocket with his right and does a long move up left to a scatty pocket, whereas Franco gets the pocket with his left and does a move out right to a scatty pinky mono pocket. Other than that they seem to climb exactly the same line as far as I can tell? A couple of moves difference over a 10m line doesn't seem like enough to call it a new problem.

Life on hold footage for reference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Pd6vNv0etg?t=1307

Andy doesn’t use that good hold on the right at all.

User deactivated

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 286
  • Karma: +35/-0
#20 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 10:32:43 pm
Comparing Dan's sequence from life on hold and Franco's sequence the line just doesn't seem that different  :shrug:

Looks like Dan gets the pocket with his right and does a long move up left to a scatty pocket, whereas Franco gets the pocket with his left and does a move out right to a scatty pinky mono pocket. Other than that they seem to climb exactly the same line as far as I can tell? A couple of moves difference over a 10m line doesn't seem like enough to call it a new problem.

Life on hold footage for reference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Pd6vNv0etg?t=1307

Not seen the problem in the flesh but they definitely look like different things to me, It certainly doesn't appear to just differ by 2 moves either. As Dan said it looks like you could be climbing side by side at one stage (the crux?).

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3392
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#21 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 11:01:04 pm
I'd be claiming a first ascent if I were him.

Imagine the stick he’d be getting if he’d have done that.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7993
  • Karma: +633/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#22 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 11:46:04 pm
I'm gutted to learn that The Prow is an eliminate.

I'd be claiming a first ascent if I were him.

Imagine the stick he’d be getting if he’d have done that.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1683
  • Karma: +154/-4
#23 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 05, 2022, 11:51:30 pm
I'm gutted to learn that The Prow is an eliminate.

I'd be claiming a first ascent if I were him.

Imagine the stick he’d be getting if he’d have done that.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343

Best thing I've seen in ages.

edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 540
  • Karma: +29/-0
#24 Re: The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates
February 06, 2022, 12:05:50 am
Franco is the best climber, cos he's clearly having the most fun here

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal