[shark]

11.7-9 average 162.4lbs

M

T

W

T Eve. Short warm up session on bar and fingerboard to wake my body up after 5.5 rest days

F.  AM Home warmup then Tor. Excited to get back on Bens. Horrible weather - 2 degrees and sleeting. Just me and Roo obviously. Holds felt super glassy and greasy until I prepped them. Just went on hard section. The moves were ok except for the throw which I did but was unable to turn the crimp into a full crimp and then kept fluffing it and got angry. Even tried the static method that everyone else does. In the end sussed I wasn’t involving my right hip enough and was then able did it a couple of times in succession by which time I was burnt out and couldn’t even do THFML let alone link moves after the throw. It’s such a basic move but to do it successfully I have to get so many things right all in a split second - looking up, hooking down on my toes, dropping my right knee, getting a slight body twist and leading with the right hip and latching the crimp in just the right place. More positively it was it was just knack rather than strength letting me down so strength maintenance work in Spain seems to have worked . After went to Rubicon and did a spot of easy traversing in the twilight for a mild pump. Going to make a habit of doing this.

S. Systems board. Reacquainted  myself with some of the benchmarks and did two sets of 20/10’s without trauma although did have to guess rest intervals on second set as phone died.

S
 
Weight was unfathomly high when I came back from Spain 9 days ago but has dropped a 2lbs this week but could do with shifting another 3lbs over next couple of weeks.

Reading Duncan’s copy of the excellent Hangdog Days has been a good reminder of how hard you have to work to climb hard. Going to keep at Bens for rest of the month but also train endurance then switch attention in March to Malham or LPT depending on weather and partners.

[Aussiegav]

Thanks Shark.
Another good week in many ways.
Happy in life & climbing.

Monday - rest

Tuesday
Had to work in the evening so I went for a project session at the School. Had a great session, really surprised myself managed to get a further two problems done on my goals for the year.

Project problems
✓ Serrer Dans Les Bras 6b. 2019 Moonboard. My hardest problem on this board.
✓ James Shame. 6b+. 2016 Moonboard
◦ Pull YaSelf Up! Yay. 6b+. 2016 Moonboard benchmark. Fell on last move twice. Ran out of time. Really surprised that I nearly did this at the end of the session.

Had a play on a problem Lean Back 6c+. Benchmark. Enjoying spending time on the 2016 set.

I think the weeks of density hangs as starting to transfer to improving finger strength.



Wednesday
Three back to back HIIT rides on the peloton


Thursday
Evening session at home. 
Warmed up with crimp curl repeaters with 12.7kg
Then longer hangs at 20s & 30s with 20kg assistance. 
 
Density hangs. 4x30s. 
2 hangs with 16.7kg assistance. Maintained good form and left a few seconds in reserve.
2 hangs with 12.7kg assistance. This was hard but not absolute limit.
Felt good this week.



Friday

Friday night at school
Splat Board traverses
Feet on Campus Pulls 1-5 match x6
Feet on Campus 2-4-6 x2
Feet on Campus 2-4-6.5 x2

Mileage Session limit myself to 2 attempts.
2.5min rest between problems
✓ Black Betty
✓ True 6a+
✓ Tepid
✓ Do it for the Scrunch 2nd go
✓ AFC warmup 1
◦ Fish Sauce ❌❌
◦ Math ❌❌
✓ Flash First Try
◦ Ala Verga ❌❌
◦ CR7 Warm up❌❌

Tried building a second mileage set using the 2016 set. Didn’t do many of the problems in  one or two goes.
Still managed 15 problems by the end of the session.



Saturday-rest

Sunday (massive day!!)

Sunday morning pre dawn session at the School.
Splat Board traverses
Feet on Campus Pulls 1-5 match x6
Feet on Campus 2-4-6 x4
Feet on Campus 2-4-6.5
Felt good doing these.

Warm up problems
✓ Blue with yellow tags
✓ PurpleTrain
✓ Edward Woodward Would Wood. Did this 2nd as my foot pinged off the last move.
✓ AFC warm up

15min send session
2016 Moonboard
◦ The Crimps & the Blobs. Not strong enough on crimp E11. I couldn’t get a strong position using this hold for the move. Fingers kept opening up and I couldn’t/wouldn’t get a full crimp on the hold.
◦ Pull YaSelf Up, Yay. 6b+. Kept dabbing the floor on the 3rd move I’m just not tall enough to keep my foot on for that move, so I have to cut loose. Had one good attempt but used the wrong foot hold for the last move.

✓ Fish Sauce. 6b+. I tried this on Friday night. Didn’t do it so I thought I’d try it as a 15min send problem. I didn’t quite catch the jug first go and came off. Had a 4 min rest and did it next go. Go up with the right for the last move.

Conditioning
frenchies on 7:3repeaters session urging Crimpd app.

Moderate reintroduction into doing weights
Bicep curls
5 reps 10kg
5 reps 15kg (5sets each arm)
Bench press
5 reps 27kg
5reps 37kg (5sets)
Overhead Press
5 reps bar only
5 reps 10kg & bar (5sets)

Felt absolutely wrecked for the rest of the day.

[csl]

Goals for February
- Do 90% of planned sessions - think I skipped a rings session because the rings at the wall didn't go long enough.
- Lose 2kg - weight coming down a bit, a tiny bit more self-control displayed.
- 3x days out on rock

Weight: 77.4kg

Monday
Rest

Tuesday
2 arm hangs, lattice edge. 4x5seconds with 40kg added
Board - did a new crimpy "medium" I've tried for a couple of sessions, think I mostly failed on other stuff.
Assisted 1 armers

Wednesday
Circuit Board
Did 6 laps of the 7a+ circuit with a fairly long rest in between, got pumped and fell off last move on most of them.

Thursday
Rest

Friday
Canary Wall
1 arm hangs on lattice edge. 4x5 seconds minus 8kg (this was hard because I had to use my chalk bag belt on the pulley, they didn't have any rope for some reason)
Quick session 45º board - did a 7A and a 7A+, some other failures. Failed on a couple of the hard circuit on normal problems.
Circuits: 1 on 1 off for 10 mins.

Saturday
Rest

Sunday
Checked out the new Substation wall in Brixton, some bouldering then did my Ancap session on the circuit board.

Ok week of training, distracted by a few things but stuck with it.

[Duma]

M - 2 x 2m plank, end of plankathon. UCR for Aerocap on circuits, 10min on, 10min off x 4. Done on 6b+, which seemed hard/about right in terms of pump, but low when compared to crimpd target grade for this (6 below OS max rather than 4 below OS max). Maybe I've found my magic bullet.
T -
W - 1 min plank. Eve bouldering, TCA. Hour trying new blues (7A-7C) flashed one but no real headway on any others. Then hour on the comp wall jumping about. Fun session, tried hardish.
T - 1 min plank
F - benchmarking on assisted one armers, got to 7kg assistance (90% BW) both arms. Not tried these for ages, not as shit as I expected.
S - Brean, tides and errands meant only arrived midday. Baltic, but good connies if you could stay warm. Pearl Harbour to warm up, then managed Prisoner of Bullworker (7c+ link up, 2/3rds of Milky Bar Kid) after a few goes. Pleased, but it felt hard, can't imagine being able to add the traverse and El Chocco crux on top of this. Maybe if you can do the spanny sequence on Bullworker it's more manageable.
S - 1 min plank

71kg

[Fultonius]

Had a week in Amsterdam (just working from home away form home, visiting OHs family). Weight, 79/80kg

Mon Beest Boulders - much better session than previous, good usccess on flashing some yellows or getting in a few tries (6C/7As). The setting there is predominantly big, or really big, or REALLY big holds which is nice for a change.

Tue fucking about on the nintendo playing "ring fit"

Wed Quick lunchtime session at Beest again. Good fun. Almost like being on a foreign boulder trip so just having fun trying to flash stuff or do them quickly. More 6C flashes or <3 goes.

Thu Yoga session - 30 mins core focused.

FriHet Lab. This is more vertical than beest, with more crimps and pinches. Got tired quite quickly, but again flashed a load of yellows (6C/7A ish). Pulled on a 7B which felt doable but not in a session and wasn't feeling like spending ages under one problem.   

Sat Not much, cycled to Artis (Zoo) wandered round there, cycled some more.
Sun Flew home. Max hangs test session. maxed out on 26kg strict half crimp and 27kg chisel. Reckon I could push chisel further but I'm trying to reduce use of this as it seems to aggravate my middle finger A2. Then 50% 7:3 repeaters to failure (28 reps) and 60% (18reps) as part of Stu's crit force test.   

Fun week. Elbows feeling ok (must do some more brachialis work this week., and wrist work) but feeling like I was recovering well and coping with some decent volume sessions. Need to get back to focus on the plan not the incipient tweaks are at bay.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Indoor climbing club...

M: Rest
T: AW: Few autos to warmup, Moonboard problems up to 6A+ then weighted hangs. 8 x 7-10s HC + 10Kg on lattice edge
W: Rest
T: Routes @ AW - Mileage up to F6c+
F: Rest
S: Redpoint Session @ AW - Up to F7a+, dropped very last move of my "project" due to flying off the very last sloping hold when feeling fine... I blame either conditions or the fingertape I had on me RH causing the slip... Heartbreaker nevertheless!!
S: 4x4 @ AW - Up to F6b+, pretty much spot on if using Stu's "really want this to end now" scale... Felt a bit sick but "could" have carried on...

Good volume week, tweaks all seem to be behaving and feeling very solid on harder moves on the string... Was a disappointment to not do the route I'd been trying last weekend tho, had anticipated a quick redpoint on first acquaintance but it's dragged on a bit, indoor slopers have never really been my thing and a last move off one does seem a little mean, (especially when you arrive there feeling fresh and ping off) but it's all good training for the greater ranges and will go next time... Onwards and upwards etc.

[duncan]

The setting there is predominantly big, or really big, or REALLY big holds which is nice for a change.

Sounds awful 

Sunday
Checked out the new Substation wall in Brixton, some bouldering then did my Ancap session on the circuit board.

Any good?  Nearly went but had a very limited time slot so stuck with the familiar.


M - Shoulder conditioning. 12km walk.
T - Shoulder conditioning. 12km walk.
W - Step-ups, 10km walk.
T - Fingerboard warm-up. Westway autobelay: 8 mins. continuous climbing getting mildly pumped on ludicrously easy routes x 4. 10 km walk.
F - Battered. Shoulders conditioning. 7km walk.
S - Step-ups, 10km walk.
S - Fingerboard warm-up. Shoulders conditioning. Westway autobelay: 8 mins. continuous climbing getting mildly pumped x 4. 7km walk.


6 days rest then back on it. First time on a wall since before Christmas and it came as a bit of a shock. Tick-tacking up vertical crimps does not prepare you for yarding on overhanging plastic jugs. And probably vice versa. Will do a week or two more of relatively easy sessions like this before adding some higher intensity stuff.

[User deactivated.]

Diet stalled for a week. 81.5kg morning weight. Need to move more.

T: Lunchtime half crimp max hangs, evening board

W: Lunchtime open hand max hangs, evening widegrip pullups, ring dips, nordic curls, dragon flags

T: City Bloc unstructured session. A little dismayed to find that the compy style problems are no longer limited to the comp room. After getting a massive flapper I felt like I had to pass on every other problem as it involved a jump of some sort. Had a play on the Kilter board and I can't decide if i like the holds on this or not for training, they are big but hard for me and tend to force a more open grip, so I end up 3 finger dragging everything.

S: Morning pullup benchmarking. Just about managed +75kg for 1 rep, chin to rings. Tried to climb on the board in the afternoon but the rain was blowing into the garage. Went to Last Sun Dance for another unstructured session although tried to stick to harder problems to keep the intensity up. Finished off in the gym area trying some bench pressing and was pleased to find that I can still quite easily bench 100kg.

[mr chaz]

Power Club.

M - F. Busy work week travelling to Durham and Manchester.
S. 2 hours in the shed on the woodie. Great session, started noting down problems, climbed around 10 new ones.
S. Some TRX followed by 30 mins of repeating some easier problems on the woodie.

Crap vid below as proof, lovingly filmed in portrait mode for you all  Includes encouragement/minor meltdown from little one.

[JohnM]

Missed a week as I was on holiday...

24 Jan - 30 Jan 2022

M - rest

T - Indoor bouldering. The key is to go at lunchtime as it is too packed after work and I just get stressed and pissed off! I wanted to create some tough power endurance boulders on the spray wall. Usually I hate setting stuff myself but actually with the place to myself it was quite an enjoyable process working something out. Came up with a nice 16 move boulder without any really hard cruxes but pretty consistent on first joint edges or smaller that require active grip and the small wooden foot jibs which require accurate foot work and slow the climbing down. Managed it 3 times with 5 minutes rest in between.

W - Trail running 34.54km with 1500m elevation gain. Very icy.

T - Lunchtime indoor bouldering session. Made up another project PE boulder with three hard crux moves in a row. No link this time. Linked the boulder from the last session 4 times with 5 minute rests. Felt pretty solid. Foot on campus laddering on the small rungs. Just 2 sets to gauge where I am. I was woefully bad but that is good as there is a lot of room for improvement and gains should come quick!

F - Trail running 22.7km with 856m elevation gain.

S - Drove to Queyras in the southern French Alps.

S - Piste skiing all day.

31 Jan - 6 Feb

M - Ski tour 18.59km with 967m elevation gain.

T - X-country skiing. 30km with 850m elevation gain. Horrendously icy about 2000m. Had a bad fall and smashed my elbow.

W - Hike 8.79km with 579m height gain.

T - Piste skiing all day.   

F - Piste skiing all day.

S - Drove back to Austria. Nearly killed twice by idiotic Italian drivers on the autostrada. Major road rage!

S - Trail running 21.93km with 1034m elevation gain. Basic body weight fingerboard session to get a bit recruited again after a week off climbing.

[Coops_13]

M: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 40lb OH *3. G1, legs. Squats 175lb X5 *5sets. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *3. Weighted pull-ups 70lb X3 *3sets. Shoulder press 35lb X5 *3sets.

T: Lower body stretching. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +65lb HC *3sets. Kilter board 45 degrees. 1 V2, 1 V3, 1 V4, 3 V5. Kicked off by a kids training group… Played around on boulders, very restricted on the boulders I could try but managed some nice hard moves on crimpy climbs. 2 V4s on Tension board 30 degrees to finish

W: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 40lb OH *3. Lots of shovelling snow

T: G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +70lb HC *3sets. Kilter board 45 degrees. 1 V3, 1 V4, 4 V5, 2 V6. Feeling a bit off so called it

F: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.

S: Drove up to Horsetooth to try to get on the Sunshine boulder but bailed after breaking trail through a foot of snow. Went to Carter Lake and tried the moves on Face Wipe V8 but way too hard for me at the moment, good to do some of the moves though. Finished failing on a V3 and V4 which were too dynamic and open-handed for me - sucks to be restricted to certain movements and hold types

S: Lifetime Fitness with Wife. Legs. Squats 175lb X5 *5sets. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *3. RDLs 60lb X2 X5 *3sets. Shoulder press 40lb X5 *3sets. Incline chest press 40lb X6 *3sets. Lower body stretching

[SA Chris]

S - Drove to Queyras in the southern French Alps.

Curious as to why you would travel that far to ski when you have so much on your doorstep?

[JohnM]

S - Drove to Queyras in the southern French Alps.

Curious as to why you would travel that far to ski when you have so much on your doorstep?

Just an annual winter holiday with the girlfriend's parents who have connections to the area. Sod's law there was barely enough snow to go around there but it absolutely dumped in Tirol! Has been a bit sketchy though.

[SA Chris]

Fair enough, was going to say, if I had the choice (going from friends' recent photos), I know where I would rather be.

[Fultonius]

S - Drove to Queyras in the southern French Alps.

Curious as to why you would travel that far to ski when you have so much on your doorstep?

Just an annual winter holiday with the girlfriend's parents who have connections to the area. Sod's law there was barely enough snow to go around there but it absolutely dumped in Tirol! Has been a bit sketchy though.

Heavy snow after thin cover and cold temps? That always fucked it in Cham. The dreaded deep facets could last until June.  Seems like it's been more of an ice climbing season this year?

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - healing. Boxing bag.
Tue - healing. 20' garage session.
Wed - healing. Board climbing.
Thu - healing. Clean + 10" hold 6x6 45 kg. Farmer's 1/3 x6 100 kg.
Fri - healing. 3' boxing bag, 1' rest, 4' jog and stairs, 1' rest x5. Brilliant.
Sat - healing. Loaded carries and stairs, high pulls.
Sun - healing. Light boxing bag, abs.

[Bradders]

First week of being part time at work!

M - took 2 big pads for a walk around Wharncliffe. Occasionally put them down and climbed something! Warmed up doing a trio of undocumented things on a little boulder near the top path, then went down to Dragon Slayer and flashed it. Pleased with this as I rarely flash anything. Great problem. Walked over to main area and flashed Outlook Roof which is easily the steepest 6A I've ever done. Finally an hour and a half or so on Kobe. Managed all but one of the moves, getting close on the one I didn't do. Great problem, keen to go back.

Tu - AM 8.5km walk
Tu - PM one arm hangs, half crimp Lattice edge. 6x 5s straight arm -20kg, and 6x 5s 90' lock -17kg, 2 min rests. Straight arm ones felt easier than last week. Superset gym ball exercises for hamstrings. Then board triples. Same 6 problems as last week. Fantastic session, only dropped 3 reps. Possibly helped by great conditions but felt better on it really, few points where I was still on but didn't really know how. Fully powered out on last problem, on 2nd rep was still hanging on but couldn't move! Finished with weighted pull ups, 4x 4 +18kg.

W - rest

Th - wife needed a lift to Halifax and then had a couple of hours to kill, so went to Woodhouse Scar. Repeated The Sheriff, then backed off Piton Crack a couple of times as the move to the top is scary without a spotter! It then started raining so tried Houdini Direct. I've dabbled on this once or twice before but never been able to even slightly fathom the moves. It basically does 3 hard moves to then finish as for the normal problem. Good progress then to at least work out how to do each one. Didn't actually do any of them, but was close. And did the cut loose and next move, after which you join the normal problem. Back home I did a bit more on the board, few goes on a project, then made up and did a new medium. Then a couple of mediums +4.5kg weight belt. Then one arm rows superset with Copenhagen planks (feet on the board), and lastly finished with foot on campus ladders; 10x 1 min on 1 min off. Ruined by the end, could probably have done another set but really didn't want to.

F - rest. Side DOMS from Copenhagen planks.

Sa - AM pick up fingerboard; index and pinky mono and middle 2 all in half crimp. Same weights as last week. Then a board session. Definitely underpowered a bit, unsure whether due to the fingerboarding or not fully recovered from Thursday. Took me ages to repeat the new medium problem I'd set on Thurs. Tried new Ben's replica and finally did a the moves, then got close albeit cheating slightly with one of the holds. Brief goes on a couple of other projects, then flailed trying to do mediums with the weight belt again. Finished with weighted pull ups, 4x3 +21kg, superset with wide Arnold Press, then 3x superset wide press ups and Ts on rings, and external rotations.

Sa - PM quick aerocap session, 3x 5 mins on 3 mins off of easy climbing and shaking.

Su - rest, chest DOMS. Arms tired!

[moose]

Th - wife needed a lift to Halifax and then had a couple of hours to kill, so went to Woodhouse Scar. Repeated The Sheriff, then backed off Piton Crack a couple of times as the move to the top is scary without a spotter!

Around 15 years later, I still remember doing Piton Crack - I had a few goes, bottling a slightly insecure jam, high up.  Then, it suddenly started to rain.  One more go.  I climbed up and back down to a shake-out a few times; that jam still felt too insecure to trust.  Weighing the increasing wetness of the holds and the risk of a horrible fall (a very old Moon pad with the solidity of custard, balanced on a boulder) versus the opportunity cost, as I would likely not return for a while.  Lightning and thunder close by: decision made.  I went for it, the jam stuck, a delighted top out, brushing aside broken glass and avoiding a condom.  Returned to my friends' house - it was late afternoon and they were just getting out of bed - "where've you been?" - "just messing about on rocks".

[jamesturnbull97]

M. Back to Caley with Buck while the dry spell lasted. Had a few goes on Banana Split/Republic, close to doing the top move a few times and had a dabble on the sit moves but then split quite badly on the RH crimp so called it. Again hard but doable but another frustrating fickle Caley bloc.
Head other to the Satellite Boulder to have a look at Status Interrupted. Put 4? sessions into it in the spring and was close but was very inconsistent on the crux deadpoint move doing only once in each session I think. This time around I stuck it in a couple of goes from the start but annoyingly foot slipped setting up to go for the final jug, thankfully after a couple of false starts stuck it again and executed. Trying this in the spring I was convinced it was still 8A comparing it to other things on grit and lime I'd tried/done around the same time but as always happens I've now got no idea. Maybe having trained properly all summer for the first time is paying off??
Back home: Weighted pull up pyramid @ +8.57, 13.75, 22.5, 28.75, 35
Ring/TRX: 3x8 of Flys, Press Ups, Archer Rows, Negative Flys

W. Spent the morning looking at vans as an upgrade from the little Combo.
Afternoon board session. Couldn't really hold any off the smaller holds on current projects with taped up tips so just ended up doing more of a mileage session making up some new moves and problems having put a bunch of new holds on the board. Set a couple of good problems on some resin holds to do as feet following and a good pocket project.

T. Weighted Repeaters 6/4 on the BM100
3x on bottom edges @ +21.25kg - Half Crimp
3x on top edges @ +3.5kg - Open Handed (Straight Index)
Weighted Pull ups. 5 set of 3 @ +30kg

F. Went and bought a new van! 
City Bloc in the afternoon. Not climbed at an indoor wall for a little while so spent a couple of hours trying most of the green set. Did a couple, close on some and lined up a couple of projects.
Always struggled on Gaston/Shouldery moves with there were plenty of on some of the blocs but starting to feeling a bit stronger in these positions so seems that something is working.
Weighted Pull Ups. 5x5 @ +30kg. Numbers have gone up significantly having been doing more pull ups consistently for the last few weeks.

Sun. After work session a City bloc. Did a bit of one armed testing on the BM2000 bottom edge. Managed 7 second hangs @ -5kg Half crimped and -3.75kg Open handed.
Felt tired so didn't do anymore 'training' just climbed on a few more of the greens and a couple of the harder purples.

[Bradders]

Trying this in the spring I was convinced it was still 8A comparing it to other things on grit and lime I'd tried/done around the same time but as always happens I've now got no idea. Maybe having trained properly all summer for the first time is paying off??

Isn't it strange how much we devalue our successes by ignoring the context of them!

[teestub]

Head other to the Satellite Boulder to have a look at Status Interrupted.

Mad that this was dry this time of year, does this one dry faster than the other bits on there?

[csl]

Sunday
Checked out the new Substation wall in Brixton, some bouldering then did my Ancap session on the circuit board.

Any good?  Nearly went but had a very limited time slot so stuck with the familiar.

I won't make it part of my regular circuit I think, it's just too vertical. There is a steep route roof thing, but on the bouldering there is only one tiny section which is steeper than 25º. It was just a quick visit but I think there are quite a few walls I prefer in London.

[Yossarian]

M - Drove nearly all the way to the wall before realising that daughter's kit was still at home. Abandoned the idea of turning the evening into a 100 mile round trip.
T - 8km walk at lunch, max hangs, assisted one-arms, wide weighted pulls, locks, hammer / biceps curls, mini stretch - got back into this session over past couple of weeks and really like it
W - 9km walk, aero repeaters (7:3/1 min rest x10 on 25mm edge assisted) KB press, press-ups on roller, lat raise, goblet squat, ring dips, then decent stretch.Often struggle to get syked for aero cap at the wall, and I don't mind doing this sort of boring aero at home, tho I should be aiming for multiple sets of these before too long.
T - 9km walk, max hangs (not quite fresh enough), wall: can't actually remember other than feeling quite tired)
F - Feeling ill with minor cold / bug of some sort
S - Skipped AM at the wall
S - Wall with both kids. Felt amazing, inc much more solid on burly stuff. Flashed a lot of stuff I wan't expecting to. Enjoyed it and had fun with the kids rather than doing anything too much like training.

The Tues session was the thing I did a lot of during one of the 2020 lockdowns and when I came back I felt super solid. The past few months I've felt a bit like strong fingers attached to a giant heavy jelly. Quite pleased to be heading back in the right direction. Weight loss has dropped off and need to readdress that. Hoping to get on some route projects in the next fortnight, and maybe a boulder day trip too. Feeling quite optimistic, with a lot of quite easy areas for improvement...

[James Malloch]

Last week was a bit quiet overall for me. Been really tired lately and my running physio has taken a back seat so I can climb more. Need to get back into it as I was enjoying getting out running again.

W. Warm up, 5 x 10s hangs at 85% max weight (+27kg) - failed on the last one. Board session - trying a few new things and failing a lot. 1 min on, 1 min off randomly plodding around the board. Did 7 reps of it to see how it was for the first session. Then 3 x 5 pull ups.

S. Climbing hub in Bradford. Circuits to warm up and then trying boulders which looked fun / but closer to my “doing it quickly” limit. Managed to get some done, failed at others. But had a nice enjoyable session. Didn’t do the 1:1 at the end but I was doing pretty quick-fire attempts at everything and was certainly a lot more wiped than usual. Not used to pulling on blobs with big dynamic moves!

[Wood FT]

M - Drove nearly all the way to the wall before realising that daughter's kit was still at home. Abandoned the idea of turning the evening into a 100 mile round trip.
T - 8km walk at lunch, max hangs, assisted one-arms, wide weighted pulls, locks, hammer / biceps curls, mini stretch - got back into this session over past couple of weeks and really like it
W - 9km walk, aero repeaters (7:3/1 min rest x10 on 25mm edge assisted) KB press, press-ups on roller, lat raise, goblet squat, ring dips, then decent stretch.Often struggle to get syked for aero cap at the wall, and I don't mind doing this sort of boring aero at home, tho I should be aiming for multiple sets of these before too long.
T - 9km walk, max hangs (not quite fresh enough), wall: can't actually remember other than feeling quite tired)
F - Feeling ill with minor cold / bug of some sort
S - Skipped AM at the wall
S - Wall with both kids. Felt amazing, inc much more solid on burly stuff. Flashed a lot of stuff I wan't expecting to. Enjoyed it and had fun with the kids rather than doing anything too much like training.

The Tues session was the thing I did a lot of during one of the 2020 lockdowns and when I came back I felt super solid. The past few months I've felt a bit like strong fingers attached to a giant heavy jelly. Quite pleased to be heading back in the right direction. Weight loss has dropped off and need to readdress that. Hoping to get on some route projects in the next fortnight, and maybe a boulder day trip too. Feeling quite optimistic, with a lot of quite easy areas for improvement...

Are you still Anstey’s bound next week? I’m looking to get out on Monday.

[Yossarian]

csl was looking at UKC and no-one has climbed Empire for ages, which we assumed meant it was gushing with moistness. And Monday's weather is looked quite iffy too. Drop either of us a DM if you see this though - we were thinking of delaying until later in the week (and maybe considering Road Rage / Illusions on Portland instead...

[Wood FT]

csl was looking at UKC and no-one has climbed Empire for ages, which we assumed meant it was gushing with moistness. And Monday's weather is looked quite iffy too. Drop either of us a DM if you see this though - we were thinking of delaying until later in the week (and maybe considering Road Rage / Illusions on Portland instead...

I’ll ask on the fb group but that sounds like a good idea if that’s the forecast. There’s always Potato Head but fair enough if you’re locked in on Empire. I’ll send you a DM if Empire is dry for some reason.

[Yossarian]

I / we are keen to get down there when conditions are good, absolutely. I want to get as much done on Empire wall as poss (and get on Cider Soak too before long) and quite happy to drive that far as often as I'm able, assuming the weather / cons make that worth it...

[rginns]

M -
T - Board - good session, felt fairly strong. The aim was mileage - 24 - 1hr20
W - Fingerboard - endurance / regen - 7 on, 3 off. 8 sets, 88 hangs
T -
F -
S - Wet walk around a dank quarry scoping out potential projects for this year with R-man. some psyche in spite of the rain.
S -
really poor week with only one board and one fingerboard sesh. Lost a bit of focus what with life stuff getting in the way including a flood in the house on Thursday and almost the entire living room ceiling falling down.
To say I was distracted is an understatement 
Was really hoping to get out at the weekend but after several dry days it pissed down.