[remus]

Me and some mates were trying a couple of problems on a bloc underneath oz bound today. The bloc itself has a clean 45 degree face on the right hand side, and the top of the boulder is a 45 degree slab. There seemed to be a problem up the right arete from sitting with a tricky pull on (lh undercut, rh sloper on the arete) then a jump for the lip. There was another problem up the middle of the bloc where you stretched out from a heel toe to crimps on the lip then campused to a good pocket on the slab.

Any ideas what these might be? Can't see any obvious candidates on UKC or in the usual guides.

[Bonjoy]

The central line is Green 45 7A, an old prob of Dawid's. The right arete is a very recent 7b (7a+ from stand)of mine that I haven't written up yet, called Blue 48. The sitter eliminates the low ledge on the right. I'm hoping to link it into a lip trav.

[Bonjoy]

There's also scope for a super hard thing going rightwards from the block under the roof out to the arete. Way too hard for me.

[Bonjoy]

Let me know what you think grade wise on Blue 48. I did think 7B+ initially.

[remus]

Cheers Bonjoy, excellent knowledge as per.

Let me know what you think grade wise on Blue 48. I did think 7B+ initially.

Bit of a funny one grade wise, I flashed the start but then couldn't touch the top (short and not very good at jumping), but my mate cruised the top and found the bottom pretty hard. 7B is probably about right for people who aren't completely inept at moving dynamically.

Great problem by the way, another quality addition. The link in to the lip trav will be a fun one, looks a bit like born lippy at bowden.

[Bonjoy]

Cheers. There is a semi-static way to do the top but it felt harder on the link than going full dynamic to me.
I also did a new squeezy 7A up the low prow left of Jetpack, called Marrowfat. Low sitter on two opposing edges. Either mantel at the first jug on the lip, or follow the lip to top at the third jug at 7A+ (Marrowfat Pea).

[remus]

There is a semi-static way to do the top but it felt harder on the link than going full dynamic to me.

Right heel on and right hand to a slopey sidepull thing? Had a little fondle with that method but felt pretty hard to me too.

[Bonjoy]

Same foot position but up to a gaston crimp/pinch with lh, bump leftfoot up the arete, then go again with left to the lip pocket. Still a slight pop but much less dynamic.

[r-man]

The central line is Green 45 7A, an old prob of Dawid's. The right arete is a very recent 7b (7a+ from stand)of mine that I haven't written up yet, called Blue 48. The sitter eliminates the low ledge on the right. I'm hoping to link it into a lip trav.

Oh I wondered if it might be this boulder. Yes, one of ours. "The Green 45" was a joke referring to the project of that name in RMNP, which was getting a lot of press at the time, and shortly after became Jade.

... of course, on the froggatt problem the green 45 degree wall is the mossy slab. Ho ho ho.

I remember thinking the lip trav could be good, but never went back.

[remus]

Same foot position but up to a gaston crimp/pinch with lh, bump leftfoot up the arete, then go again with left to the lip pocket. Still a slight pop but much less dynamic.

Tried this sequence today and worked a lot better for me (not quite well enough to actually get it done though  ). Also did Marrowfat which I thought climbed nicely.