[shark]

Hola

M. Bit warmer but still only 7 degrees. Slow getting going. FB warm up then back to Indio sector so Duncan could try his 7a. Sunny. Happy to be there but overcome with lethargy. We both did three nice routes at 6a+, 6a+ and 6c. Unfortunately Duncan burnt out on the next route. It was getting a little cooler and I felt I should do a workout as we are on a day on/day off routine. Went on the popular Megapixel which destroyed me on the first day and I thought was 7b+. Flashed it without drama. Amazing the difference that cooler/ less greasy evening conditions, some mileage under your belt and knowing where you’re going makes. (Well maybe not that amazing). Awesome route.

T. PM Some one arm lock offs (this time hopping into the lock) and lengthy assisted front levers. Back stretching and leg/hip flexibility

W. Went to Iraultzo to start as we are starting to run out of new warm ups in the usual sectors. Duncan led up a 40m 6b but ran out of draws. I led it to the top and reckon 6c. Did another 6a the which was easy apart from one English 6a move. Then moved back to Zirizia so Duncan could work on his 7a. I felt I needed to step things up a notch on something harder abs steeper and went on what I thought was the most popular 7c at Etxauri but was in fact one of the least popular 7c’s at Etxauri. Apart from being a bit crumbly it also featured a section that looked font 7C. Bailed and very annoyed at wasting a day.

T. Cloudy with some occasional drizzle which wasn’t forecast and after some indecision ended up going on the 7c I meant to go on the previous day (Lore Basatia) which was classic, hard and runout in places. Had two enjoyable dogging goes up it split by a bit of belaying duty.

F PM 3 x one arm lock offs pronated and supinated hopping into the lock and experimented with holding a 5kg weight when doing the locks on my right which was too heavy. Felt like I’d got stronger but also felt tired.
3 x 30sec assisted front levers. Back stretching and leg/hip flexibility

S Both of us forgot to do a home warmup. Gorgeous fresh and chilly day with the clarity of light revealing snow covered mountains of Pyrenees hovering in distance. Plan was for both of us to get on our respective projects at Zirizia but the parking was rammed so headed up to parking for Trampas which was equally rammed. Think we’ve become a bit spoilt to date generally having the rock to ourselves. Joined the crowds and started on a decent 6b+ and then another 6b+ which was really 6c. The sector classic Oasis (guidebook 7a) became available although the normal L1 6a start was still occupied. I did the 6b+ alternative start but it had a desperate grit style English 6a finish which took the wind out of my sails. Pressed on up the groove of Oasis but got spat off the crux. Gutted. Dogged to the top, stripped it and called it a day as was powered out. Wiped when we got back.

S.

Thought I’d turned a corner on Monday by breezing up Megapixel but feel I’ve gone backwards since probably from overdoing it. 5 days left and will focus on trying the 7c (and drop the rest day lock offs).

[Duma]

Very jealous Simon!

M - 12 hr shift. Run, 5km, flat, pavement, 25:30. Knackered after work but forced myself out for sharkathon. Moon was beautiful. 2 x 1:30 plank.
T - Bouldering, TCA, hr and a bit. Comp was on but didn't have time to give them a decent go so did whites (6C - 7A) instead. 21 problems, 17 flash, 3 2nd go, 1 3rd go. 2 x 1:30 plank.
W - woke up with sore throat, LFT +ve. Balls. 2 x 1:40 plank. Max hangs on lattice edge @ 81kg (~10kg less than a couple of weeks ago). 6 x 10s.
T - nothing, covid. Terrible nights sleep, bed all day.
F - better night, and feeling gradually better through the day. Still stayed in bed though. 2 x 1:40 plank.
S - still in bed(room), just feels like a cold now, but trying to avoid giving it to the gf. 3 x 1:40 plank, 50 press ups, 50 sit ups. 6 sun prayers.
S - GF +ve so got run of the house. Feel almost fine now. 3 x 1:40 plank. 20 pull ups, 20 press ups, 100 squats, some single legged back bridge things (dunno the proper name) for my #cidersoakknee. Ancap on lattice edge @ BW, 7:3 x 6 x 6 sets. Took off 5kg on last set as was feeling close to failure on set 5.

71.5kg

[yetix]

2 weeks as I forgot to post last week. Spoke to huffy this week about various issues and have been advised to keep volume low as I have some nerve entrapment issues going on. Am doing a bunch of rehab work on top of what's listed below. All fb and board work is sub 60 mins though since speaking to him.

M rest
T rest
W parisellas, dis the in hell and put of moves , close to linking into stand but pinged on the match to the wobbly bloc, regressed on these moves after this. On go I pinged I made a large flapper on middle finger below creese, next go 2 flappers on back 2 creeses annoyingly. First splits I think since degloving 2 tips in August at Rhiw Goch, how I managed this in the cave is beyond me.
Repeated rocka and cave life to line up links. Felt very tired, possibly overcooked it for the first session at the cave in about 6 or 7 months.
T FB. Felt fairly tired still so tried to lowered level accordingly to how hard it felt to leave a few seconds in reserve after a few hangs 4F HC did 15kg 10s, 20kg 10s, 25kg 10s, 27.5kg 9s 25kg 9s, 4x20kg 10s
Middle 2 pick ups 5x10s 20kg
Wrist wrench, tested a few variations out.
Maybe should have skipped this session in hindsight. Stopped early due to the fatigue as it didn't feel productive.
F rest
S board session on hangar 50 board
S fb felt tired still think I did upto 32.5kg on the bottom edges again for a few middle 2x5 for 25kg
M rest
T fb bottom bM 1k edges 5x10s 27.5kg middle 2 pick ups 25kg 5x10s
W Hangar board for an hour, managed to repeat one moderate, do all the moves on a project and do another new moderate. Briefly tried a few harder ones
T rest
F fb 1 arm hangs BM2k bottom middle edge 5x5s bw rh 1x3s bw left 4x5s - 5kg left, not sure if HC or open as was just focused on pulling hard! Middle 2 half crimp pick ups 5x7s 20kg, felt fine but wrist was feeling a bit weird on the right so didn't try to push it.
S rest
S Hangar board for an hour. Repeated the first moderate I did last session 1st go, could do all the moves of the 2nd one every go in isolation but couldn't quite link, managed to come off holding the finishing hold. Briefly tried the moves of a harder problem, could do all but 1 which felt close. Tried the crux of another. Came off the last move of another moderate at the end of the session. Fairly sure I can do all the problems I tried once they're a little more dialed but hard with such short sessions!

Skins still a bit fucked from the In Hell splits, but keen to head back and have a few redpoint goes likely into cave life first and then into rocka once its better.

[Aussiegav]

Sounds like a great trip Shark. Clip a few bolts for me.

Would love to get away on a trip.

Here’s the week.
Went to the School in the afternoon, I was much warmer than Friday night. This made a big difference on the session & warm up

Splat Board traverses

4 jumping pull ups

5 feet on Campus Pulls x6

Feet on Campus 2-4-6 x4

✓ Svartpump

✓ 147 All out

✓ Blue with yellow tags

◦ Orange with blue tags ❌ this felt slippery & almost slipped off the hold like last session. Will drop this off the warm up circuit.

✓ PurpleTrain

✓ Black with black tags

Did limit session. 15mins on each problem

◦ 15mins on Tinlicker 6a+ Splat Board

Worked bottom half. Managed to link the middle section. Felt hard for 6a+.

✓ Right Left Right 6a+ 2019 Moonboard.

I tried to Onsight it, then tried the top and it. I took a good rest & did it on the 15th minute.

◦ Sandbagging Youngens. 6b. 50 Degree Board

Worked the bottom moves. Need to work a efficient sequence. Can do the top moves.

This was a good session, about 2.5 hrs. Good quality climbing and didn’t trash the skin. I enjoyed it.

Still trying to get the balance of volume & intensity

[Aussiegav]

Forgot to add the start of the week. 
Monday - rest

Tuesday
2 session day
Pre work
I did Density Hangs 4x 30s hangs on lattice edge. Body weight less 20kg. Increased assistance so I don’t get scared of falling off the edge and down the stairs. Did these ok, will try 16.7kg next session.

Awesome Walls after work, 10 route pyramid 5b to 6b+.
Did the following routes
5b, 6a, OS, 6a+ OS, 6b+ RP, 6b+ 1 working go & 2 Redpoint attempts. Fell on 3rd last move twice. 6a+ OS, 6a+ RP, 6a OS

Wednesday
40min peloton ride


Thursday
Evening session at home.
Warmed up with crimp curl repeaters with 12.7kg increased to 20kg for 3x single 10s half crimp curls.
Then two longer hangs 20s at 20kg assistance.
Density Hangs
Density hangs. 8x30s.
2 hangs with 20kg assistance
6 hangs with 16.7kg assistance. Maintained good form and left a few seconds in reserve to avoid falling down the stairs.

Friday
Went to the School after work. Frozen when I got here from the ride from work. Took ages to warm up. I was cold & stiff pretty much the entire session.
Tried to warm up
Splat Board traverses
4 jumping pull ups
5 feet on Campus Pulls x6
The warm up circuit felt hard and I struggled with feeling frozen cold.
Bailed after 2 hrs. Just couldn’t get warm.

Saturday-rest

[duncan]

M - Etxauri with Simon. Warmed up on a couple of stiff 6a+s then onsighted the excellent Sendero Luminoso 6b+ (6c?). Powered-out on a 6b+ I’d tried the previous week.
T - 12km walk around the Fortress and old town Pamplona. The fortress walls had kms of brick-edge traversing but I resisted the temptation. Shoulder conditioning.
W - Etxauri with Simon. Warmed up on a 6b which I didn’t take enough draws for, and another that I did. Tried Las Flores del Mal (6c+? 7a?) again. Got to my previous high and grabbed the draw again    Worked the route properly, with encouragement from Simon, the moves above my stopping point definitely not harder than the ones before. Had another RP go but didn’t have any gas left in the tank. A good lesson in the need to try a bit harder.
T - Easier day. Did a couple of routes including the classic Donostiarra (6a in the guide, other sources say 6b, would make a great E2).
F - 12km walk along the River Arga and around old Pamplona.
S - See shark’s entry. Stressed by events back in UK. Forgot warm-up. Crag very busy so got on a good but hard-for-a-warmup-for-me. Dogged up this but managed to tweak my elbow slightly. Had a couple of goes at a similarly graded but even harder route adjacent and discovered I definitely had tweaked my elbow. 
S - 12km walk along a different part of the River Arga and around Pamplona. Shoulder conditioning.

Feeling rather under-prepared for the trip with very little in reserve for multiple pitches or repeat efforts on routes. Three months of just doing supplementary exercise interspersed by illness will do that!  Still really enjoying Etxauri, the climbing is great, the weather has been amazing and is forecast to continue that way. Simon or I will do a more detailed report on the area at some point. Will try climbing today and see how the elbow feels.

[jamesturnbull97]

A week of spontaneity. Spoke to my friend Jacob who now lives in Font and also Andy who was back in his van making his way south on Saturday morning, the forecast looked good to coincide with the travel restrictions relaxing slightly so by the time in was home from work I’d booked the euro tunnel and was packing the van to drive down after work Sunday!

M. Had stopped in French services for a few hour sleep so finished the last hours or so of driving. Pretty foggy on arriving in Acheres la Foret but after catching up over a some coffee it had mostly cleared so we headed out to Rocher de Corne-Biche. Plenty of stuff was still damp but a few of the blocs in the sun were fine, a few random easies too warm up then managed Pain and Gain in a few goes. Headed over the Drei Zinnen in the evening did la Fosse aux Oreillies, climbed with a great sequence on some lovely holds but a shame it’s a little Danny on the block at the start.

T. Foggy again at first but had burnt off by around 10:30, headed up to Rempart to soak up some sun. Again a few random circuit problems above the big 5. Jumped on Boule a Pierrot, seemed tricky but as soon as I'd figured how to make the knack heel work it was fine. Next of the list, Respire, again great problem but a toughy. Managed it from one move in a few times but couldn't touch the first move, a big move between relatively good holds but apalling feet. (something to work on there, definitely struggle when I can't get weight through my feet.)
Just next to Respire was a cool looking mushroom shaped bloc with a slopey mantle over the top, didn't look too bad but an hour later we were still failing around. After much grovelling I finally beach myself over the top, having looked in the book afterwards turned out to be Bush de La. In the fading light went to Moby Dick at Cuvier Est, had a decent flash burn but to no avail. After bailing of the very ratty gratton at the top I pulled a bit harder on it to success.

W. Cloudy morning so headed up to Cul du Chin to be in the open. Warmed up on a circuit of Orange, Blues and Reds before heading down to try Eclipse. Having been close in 2018 it was one I wanted to go back to, unfortunately the good finishing edge has broken off, having hit where the hold used to be it's now going to be a fair bit harder. Jumped on the Arabesque instead which went in a few tries. Was pretty humid and there was the odd spot a drizzle so called it a day to save skin/energy.

T. Apremont Mare aux Biches. Went to try Vive les Femmes after the recommendation from Buck. Warmed up on Le Gong and Deserteur. VlF seemed great, very unique pressing up in to the scoop. Thought this was going to be the hard bit but turns out matching the slopers and getting the high foot is nails! Moved down to Onde Sensuelle, crazy to think that something that obvious was only done recently right underneath some of the old school classics. Probably because it is utterly terrifying above a dodgy landing!

F. Headed up to J.A. Martin partly due to it being the closest to the house but also as there was nice circuit in case skin and energy were seriously lacking. Did a load of blues which were great before jumping on Ariane 5, a great move locking a crimp down to your hips of then popping to the lip. Also did it from a sit a couple of goes afterwards. Then ran around a load more blues just picking was looked fun, I'd highly recommend a lot of these if you're looking for an easy day.
Wandered along to the top to see what we could find, stumbled across a cool roof which turned out to be Dark Side and Gravity. DS was especially good, a dymanic slopey bulge (very typical font)
Packed up the van around 2ish and drove back to Leeds.

S & S. Rest and Work

All in all a great little trip, wasn't quite the perfect weather the forecast originally eluded to but can't really complain at being able to climb for 5 days in Font. Just need to grow some skin back now but thankfully nowhere near as bad as I thought it would be.

[csl]

Jan Goals
- do 90% of planned sessions - much better, skipped a hard board session but otherwise did everything.
- lose 2kg - I'm not living like someone who is trying to lose some weight, this has gone up slightly 

Weight: 77.5kg

Monday
2 arm hangs, lattice edge. 4x7seconds with 25kg added
Board - did a problem from last week, made a bit of progress on a couple of others.
On the minute - 21 minutes (should be doing 30 but it's a bit hard on my board)

Tuesday
Rest

Wednesday
Awful session at the wall, climbed like shit.

Thursday
Rings + lockoffs - good workout

Friday
Rest

Saturday
1 arm hangs on lattice edge. 4x7seconds minus 12kg
skipped a board session I had meant to do 

Sunday
Social session at stronghold ldf, just tried to flash any V5-6 and did the majority I tried.

Bit better this week, need to pay a bit more attention to what I'm eating but otherwise ok on the training front.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T.
W.
T. Parents finally made it to the UK from their home in France and met the little one, Psyched! Later that day, managed to find about 1.5 hrs to train on the woodie. Still getting used to moving again and acquainted with the board, so time spent making up relatively easy straightforward problems and tweaking the holds/layout.
F.
S. Couple of hours adding some more t-nuts and making a few changes on the board, no actual training.
S. Ventured to the indoor wall for the first time since last June. Got some decent mileage in and felt stronger than I expected. Bad full body DOMS today.

Great to back climbing again. I shall probably stick to one good woodie session a week at the moment as my bicep adjusts to the loads again, and then slowly build up the volume. Left arm does a lot feel weaker than my right, which is expected at this stage.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Frozen Stiff Club...

M: Rest
T: Routes @ Horseshit - Fuck ME! Bloody freezing... Literally could not feel me fingers at the top of the wall, did a F6a+ then the sun came off the wall and the wind picked up... Not fun! Managed to somehow give meself Batman neck (you know that neck tweak where you need to turn your whole body to look anywhere?) and the elbow hates me!
W: Walking around like a shit Batman...
T: Shit Batman with sore elbow!
F: Few easies up to F6b @ AW to see how neck and elbow feel... Nice to stretch it all out!
S: Massage then AW with boy - Did a bit of easy bouldering, some easier routes with the boy belaying, a couple of F6c's on the autos and the boy led to the top of the big wall for the first time... 
S: Nowt...

Shit week, climbing wise... Felt cold and tweaky. Neck still aint right, left elbow feels like it clicks and drops all power from time to time (possible some stray cartilage in there from 2 previous dislocations and other skateboarding related swellbows...) Shoulder feels fine tho and did score a new job with an ace company that's gonna net me more regular hours (and possibly a few perks) so hopefully that will be one of my 2022 goals ticked.... YYFY!

Must try harder this week....

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing. Good session.
Tue - 20' session garage.
Wed - micro weights after track riding. Tired!
Thu - Lattice edge 85%. Cleans.
Fri - loaded carries.
Sat - weights, loaded carries.
Sun - micro weights. In some mysterious way i injured my right lat/ribs, at mid height. Extremely painful to even stand. I may be out for a while I'm afraid.

[Bradders]

Eclipse. Having been close in 2018 it was one I wanted to go back to, unfortunately the good finishing edge has broken off

Ah that's a real shame! Was a hard enough move as it was.

[lagerstarfish]

Shoulder feels fine tho and did score a new job with an ace company that's gonna net me more regular hours (and possibly a few perks) so hopefully that will be one of my 2022 goals ticked.... YYFY!

Must try harder this week....

New job with Wayne Enterprises, obviously

[James Malloch]

M. Acro Yoga

T. Board session - fun one and finger feeling good

W. Wife’s PhD viva. She’s now a doctor so we were on the fizz from 2pm. Sharkathon fail!

T. Out for dinner, but think I did running physio first.

F. Can’t remember what we did on Friday. Maybe physio.

S. Morning at the climbing hub in Bradford doing routes. Did all the autobelays (10 routes?) up to 7a+. Then led the 6b+, 6c and 7a - all first go. Left the 7b for next time. Finished on a top rope doing 6c, 6b+, 6a+ 6b+ 6c back to back. Feeling tired but all do-able. Shame there’s only 6 lead routes there but they need to cater for the kids. They had someone measuring up for a new bigger lead section - will be good once that’s all built but no idea on timescales.

S. Trampolining! So much fun and managed to overcome my old fears and do some front Flips!

[Coops_13]

M: 4 mile hike above Boulder, 1000ft ascent. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +55lb HC. Kilter board climbing at 35 degrees *3sets then tried problems at 30 degrees. Completed 1 V1, 3 V2, 3 V3, 2 V4. After feeling not as good on the hangs, this felt good, definitely pushed it more than I have before. Dumbbell Row 60lb X8 *3sets. Reverse Flys 12.5lb X8 *3sets. Incline dumbbell press 35lb X6 *3sets. Kettlebell balance + shoulder press 18lb (35lb R) X5 *3sets. Bicep Curls 45lb X6 *3sets.

T: Walk around park with dog. Pull-ups +20lb X5 *5. Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 30lb OH *3. Lower body stretching.

W: Walk around park with dog. Lower body stretching. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +55lb HC. Kilter board 40 degrees. 2 V1, 2 V2, 2 V3, 2 V4. Attempted a V5 but too dynamic, tweaked hand slightly so went home

T: Pull-ups +25lb X5 *3. Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 30lb OH *3.

F: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.

S: Lower body stretching. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +55lb HC. Kilter board 40 degrees. 2 V1, 2 V2, 2 V3. 30 degrees, 1 V2, 6 V3, 3 V4. 16 climbs total. It seems it's really easy to tweak the hand if going a bit dynamically / catching open hand but pain isn't lasting

S: Hike up Bear Canyon in the Flatirons with dog to scope out some boulders. Found Afro Bush V8, looks amazing and definitely worth the hike to come back for. 4.2 miles, 1000ft ascent

[Bradders]

Deload week. Pleased to get plenty of walking in (for me lately) along the way.

M - back to Ilkley. Did Calf Dyno for the first time which was good fun. Then surprised myself by doing Bernie the Bolt in a handful of goes! One minor beta tweak made all the difference. First 7C I've done since November 2020; not sure what to think about that. Anyway, immediately psyched on a link up version of it and had 3 good goes getting through the 7B first half, coming off on the first hard move of Bernie.

Tu - rest

W - 2.5km walk (+6kg baby)

Th - 3.5km walk (+baby)

F - 5.5km walk

Sa - went to Caley with Spidermonkey but it was pretty damp. Bailed to Ilkley which in all honesty was where I'd wanted to go anyway few others showed up so ended up being a good scene. Not wearing thermals was an error though; freezing! 8-10 attempts on link up proj, this time made it through the first hard move of BtB twice only to come off going for the penultimate hard move. Good progress. Did the 7B first half every go too. Had a few brief punts at Ringpiece (which I've done before) but heart wasn't in it. SM had a good day. Great fun.

Su - AM fingerboard, 2x 10s 26mm edge half crimp +40kg. Then 20mm pick ups, 6x middle 2 30kg and 6x front 2 25kg. Backed weights off from recent all time highs but still decent. Then board triples, 6 problems doing each one twice back to back, rest 30s then do again. Lots of 2nd lap failures but did most of the 3rd laps.
Su - PM 4km walk (+baby)

[rginns]

Mixed week:
M - rest
T - Warmed up on the circuit 1 problems + mirror problems, added 3 or 4 problems to circuit 3, worked on a project involving a big left throw which feels like it'll be pretty hard. Finished with a brief endurance session to warm down.
W - rest
T - Long session with Dave, climbing all problems in circuit 2 and 3 and working on some projects. Did an easier version of the hard proj. Finished with an endurance session 1 min on, 1 min off, terrible. Need to work on this.
F - too much workshop stuff to get any training in, parents up in afternoon
S - Parents visiting
S - ditto, work, etc
Disappointing volume this week, was a busy week. Great conditions on Thursday but couldn't get out... would have been nice to get out but Friday morning was busy and a bit claggy and wet anyway. Been neglecting the cardio and ate crap all weekend so could do with getting back on it.
 

[Fultonius]

Quiet return to climbing for me, not a lot.

Can't really remember if I did anything Monday/Tuesday, probably some brachialis rehab work and some planks. Couldn't do much as my wrist was just gubbed.

Weds: brachialis eccentrics. 2 x 2min planks, on forearms with some hand raises to up the ante, plus alternating leg raises.
Eve: Yoga focussing on planks, hollow bodies, side planks, IYT etc. and some stretching. Wrist "clunked" in the evening when I was doing some gentle ROM stuff, and for the next few days it got way better, so something must have been displaced.

Thurs: 4.5km run, pretty slow and first since I started getting a creaky kneecap. Seemed ok.

Friday: Ratho session. Just climbing for fun. Felt like I was pumping out on relatively easy ground, so maybe the recent AnCap needs some more aero maintenance than I was bothering with. Also just had nearly 2 weeks off climbing...so.... wrist fine though, and elbows fine.

20 min run on way home.

Sat: Nowt, DIY! 

Sun: Walk with mum for her 72nd birthday up Dumyat which, despite being the local hill above where she went to uni, she'd never climbed as she was put off by a colleague running it before work every day... (417m high), took us 2.5 hours which was a bit longer than planned as I'd run it before and thought it would be about 1.5 hours.

All in, pleased to be back to being relatively injury free so I can now resume training.

[JohnM]

M - Trail running 17.52km +744m. Stretching + elbow rehab.

T - Trail running 18.04km +748m. Finger boarding - basic BW hangs front 3 + back 3. Elbow rehab.

W - Trail running 18.22km +749m. Elbow rehab.

T - Trail running 18.33km +750m. Indoor bouldering - still struggling with the elbow. Had a guy that seemed to be following me so he could flash the problems I was struggling with and quickly moving on without making eye contact. He started blowing on his fingers before doing the final moves which pissed me off. Went upstairs to the training room to do circuits but there was a big kids group in there. Got pissed off and went home.

F - Trail running 21.97km +836m. Elbow rehab.

S - AM: Indoor climbing. A bit of bouldering and then routes. Did a 7a and 7b ok and then failed high up on a 7b+. PM: Trail running 21.47km +836m.

S - Ski tour 8.66km +1108m.

Climbing is still a bit miserable with the elbow. Such a small region causing such big issues and pain! At least the trail running volume is going well. A 115km week and the effort of running a half marathon with some elevation is starting to feel easy. The shopping bill has doubled though as running everyday has made me constantly hungry, including waking up in the middle of the night and having to go and eat peanut butter and drink a glass of milk to stop my stomach protesting! Find out this week whether we get into UTMB which will require more running training and elevation!

[Fultonius]

T - Trail running 18.33km +750m. Indoor bouldering - still struggling with the elbow. Had a guy that seemed to be following me so he could flash the problems I was struggling with and quickly moving on without making eye contact. He started blowing on his fingers before doing the final moves which pissed me off. Went upstairs to the training room to do circuits but there was a big kids group in there. Got pissed off and went home.

What a prick!

Climbing is still a bit miserable with the elbow. Such a small region causing such big issues and pain! At least the trail running volume is going well. A 115km week and the effort of running a half marathon with some elevation is starting to feel easy. The shopping bill has doubled though as running everyday has made me constantly hungry, including waking up in the middle of the night and having to go and eat peanut butter and drink a glass of milk to stop my stomach protesting! Find out this week whether we get into UTMB which will require more running training and elevation!

Good luck with the UTMB. I never did make that video of the micro-stretch/massage that seemed to work well for me. It's tennis elbow you have?

[User deactivated.]

Tu - rest

W - 2.5km walk (+6kg baby)

Th - 3.5km walk (+baby)

F - 5.5km walk

Nice volume accumulation micro-cycle there with decreasing intensity.

[Yossarian]

2 weeks:

M - 10km trail run. Wall - best board session since, well, the last one. A couple of mad-syked 20somethings helped. Best links on my hardest projects. Extremely syked.
T / W - lunchtime walk, bit of stretching
T - Wall. Zero power and generally felt crap.Easily explained by an ill-thought-through eat very little for 2 days idea. Won't try that again.
F - 10km trail run
S - Wall - ok / unexceptional board session, followed by slightly more fun working on harder new (board like) problems on steep prow.
S

M-F - New job, daughter had covid, completely distracted
S - Wall. Felt fairly useless after a whole week off.
S - 9km walk, bumped into ageing musician, 7-year-old fed his horse some carrots

Extremely inconsistent fortnight, but not going to beat myself up about it. With various things going on (new job, trying to get house ready to sell in the spring) I think I'm going to try to keep things simple and focus on bouldering / getting stronger, and worry about route fitness later (because it feels more regimented and I don't want to end up skipping things and then get pissed off about it.) Generally feeling v strong but held back by flexibility and weight, and TBH I bet when I get lighter the prospect of routes will feel a lot more tempting anyway. Haven't been doing any fnigerboarding recently but all my hard board sessions are probably intense enough - will start adding some FB when I can fit it in. Aiming to introduce some heavy pull-ups / one-arm progression / locks, etc again this week, as the last time I did them all in earnest I got really positive results. Lost 6kg so far this year.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Shoulder feels fine tho and did score a new job with an ace company that's gonna net me more regular hours (and possibly a few perks) so hopefully that will be one of my 2022 goals ticked.... YYFY!

Must try harder this week....

New job with Wayne Enterprises, obviously

Busted... 

Word on the street is they're looking for a shit boy wonder... Any takers? 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Sun - micro weights. In some mysterious way i injured my right lat/ribs, at mid height. Extremely painful to even stand. I may be out for a while I'm afraid.

Sorry to hear that, hope it sorts itself quick-time and you're back soon.

[Rocksteady]

Quite enjoying / envious of all the trip reports upthread. Extauri sounds good albeit hard. Would love to be in Font.

End-of-year goals:                 
Onsight/flash 5 F7as                 
Boulder Fb7A+                 
                 
January goals:                 
Build foundations and training capacity                 
Weight: 72.3kg (-0.2kg), 15.4% (-0.1%) bodyfat. AIM: 71kg 12% bodyfat                 
Sleep has gone even worse with both boys being ill last week, with peak of my 8 month old waking every 30 minutes almost through the whole night.

M: Rest

Tu: Calisthenics warm up plus fingerboard repeaters 6:4s. Did bodyweight + 1.27kg which is 0.5kg improvement on last week. Managed to squeeze this in during the work day which I am delighted with as rarely achieve.
In the evening I went to the gym and did a 'minimum effective dose' workout of 2 sets of 10 on the main muscle groups. Weaker than last time I went before getting ill before Xmas but not by much.

W: Rest. DOMS.

Thu: Aerocap routes session. Did 4x sets of 3 back to back routes, hardest 6b+ x 2 up the comp wall. I was pleased with this as I depumped on a 6b afterwards and a month or so ago I struggled to onsight this. Unfortunately ruined the session after this by trying a 6c that was more like a 7a. Got really pumped. Never fully recovered. 14 routes total.

Fr: Rest

Sat: Most exercise I did was crazy golf for my son's birthday. Then I ate a pizza and loads of cake.

Sun: My son's birthday, met up with my parents and went for a dog walk and a very good pub roast.

Training sessions were good but couldn't muster enthusiasm to train on the weekend after long family days. Should have squeezed in a fingerboard session I think. Will try to do better next week.