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Waddage You've Seen? (Read 15208 times)

Greg C

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#25 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 12:56:33 pm
I noticed a bald guy pulling off some hard moves on a steep roof in the heart of the crag at Woodwell O'ert Road one time... looked at least V8+!

Control freak

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#26 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 12:57:16 pm
The VadWad - whos he? Maybe the VanWads lesser known cousin

  :bash:

Falling Down

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#27 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 12:59:35 pm
As with Panto it's not about always about the numbers, but just things that stick in your head...

Bouldering wise...

Malc doing in the first repeat of Pinch II at Stoney in about 10 minutes in front of Stu C who'd been trying it all that (One) Summer - Stu packed it all in soon after..

Malc doing laps on Karma for photo's and starting it with a one armer..

Going out with Jason loads of times to spot him (sans mats) whilst he figured out Brad Pitt.

Jerry doing the first ascent of the Crack at Bowden (I've got some pics somewhere that I should put on the web).

Belaying Robin Barker on Transcendance at Back Bowden when he slapped for the break as a jet roared past about 10 foot above the crag - he nearly fell off and I nearly let go of the rope to clamp my hands over my ears..

The Dawes doing Dowhill Racer one-handed for the first time - I got more cash for a postage size photo in Rock 'n Ice than I got for a High Cover shot.

Trying to hold the camera steady whilst Ben P tried Quents Dyon (no mats) wearing the largest, baggiest jeans ever seen in the universe..

Jerry doing the Mint 400 (or whatever it's called next to Valkyrie @ Frogatt) - I've never seen anyone even try it before or since...

Building the school with Gavin and opening it up for the first time and watching all the problems get done and named for the first time.

There's more , but I've got work to do...

Stu Littlefair

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#28 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 01:04:46 pm
Funny, I come to think of it I've never seen any total waddage. Oh, hang on -

Matt Birch strolling along Baburre (V11) at the buttermilks comes close.  As does Craig Smith making the FA of the druid stone - gnarly offwidthing whilst knocking off man-sized sheets of loose patina, followed by the obligatory, loose, slab-of-death topout - total effort. I've always found Ru campussing most of powerband faintly disturbing too. Then there was Dave Graham flashing Migrany (8b) this new year (as part of his warm-up), and his totally casual redpoint of L'Odi Social (8c+).  Steve Macs onsights of Empire de Sens and Face du rat were blinding too - as was his whole performance on that trip - in 3 weeks he didn't fall off anything easier than 8b.

Pride of place goes to Marc Le Menestral dispatching Brad Pitt 2nd go, the 8a way, and back when we all thought it was the hardest problem in the UK. I've never been so blown away in all my life. I was so stunned, that when he flashed danny's prob (from a sitter) and thought it was 7b I never raised an eyebrow. Total Waddage.

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#29 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 04:41:43 pm
I watched some guy on Digital (8a) at Bas Cuvier once.  He fell off the last move, but fuck me, totally mesmerising - he was that smooth.  I remeber thinking that it was the best piece of climbing I'd ever seen - probably up there with the best ones still! Word up to the little chinese fella, winner. :clapclap:

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#30 Waddage You've Seen?
October 29, 2004, 04:56:15 am
Witnessed a dude I know can't do more than 10 pull-ups crank a one-arm on a scary route in Eldorado Canyon. Even dragged his toes up the rock...amazing what waddage fear can produce.

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#31 Waddage You've Seen?
October 29, 2004, 09:06:30 am
Quote
as does the Cottle tantrum when it rears it's ugly head

what what whhhhaaaaaaatttttttttttttttttttttttttttt, you fuckers :twisted:
Ill get u.........
 :lol: dont see them much these days im afriad, old age is mellowing me besides i vent all my anger when im drivin me van.

For me got to be button Moon doing some traversing at cragx, moffatrocity to the the top, down to bottom hold on Jericho, leftwards along low trav (hard variant) leftwards into middle sloper of first traverse on moffatrocity, back along to jericho, up this FOOTLESS, low variant again and reverse moffatrocity.
Other would have to Simon Nadin at Boux in '87 doing chouca in 2 days the fastest time up to that point, in front of load of incredulous frenchies. he ambled up like some punter and they were all eyeing him up, and he pissed it, made it look 6c. Was on top slab and his krab flipped and jammed, he was giggling and trying to free it. if youve been up there youll know what i mean

webbo

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#32 Waddage You've Seen?
October 29, 2004, 09:20:58 am
watching the vicar flash monumental armblaster or steve bancroft following rectum rift knaked and shoeless,while his belayer,a drunken choe brooks belayed him with the rope round his neck just lying on the top of the crag.

Andy Harris

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#33 Waddage You've Seen?
October 29, 2004, 01:49:38 pm
Have seen a few feats of strength in my time but these are my top

1. Watching Stuart Cameron lock out the crux sidepull move on Superman completely static as a warm up in front of a horrified Jerry Moffat (bonus points for psyching out a superstar).

2. Malc Smith locking through "The Airlie Bird gets the Worm" on the old edgedale road board. A 55/60 board with the problem revolving around flat pinches and feet on nowt. Given 8a in old money but at least a grade harder and revolving around 1 very hard move. Pinch strength of doom.

3. Ben & Jerry more times than I can remember.

4. The piston like arms of Paul Higginson on numerous occassions.

chris

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#34 Waddage You've Seen?
October 29, 2004, 02:44:43 pm
has to be rich simpson casually doing repeated 1-4-7s down the school whilst chatting away, talking about his warm up routine. :shock:

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#35 Waddage You've Seen?
October 29, 2004, 11:49:43 pm
i was there for most of nigels n all, Smith on the big link this year was something else also, didn't see him do it, but saw him get through the undercut move from the start in dismaying fashion, also ste mcclure flashing mandella at kilsney. Great feats of beastliness  :eek3:

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#36 Waddage You've Seen?
October 30, 2004, 11:08:36 am
Nice one boys, some shocking stuff has gone down! Just remembered another one, which is Danny Cattell doing 1-5-8 pretty much first go on his first time on a campus board  :shock: But that's not even the shocking thing!

Basically he was in the School and Irish Si asked him what he could campus. He didn't know, so had a quick go at 1-4-7. Fails pathetically a couple of times. Renowned campus wad Si jibes him because 1-4-7 is "easy". "Oh right, OK" says Danny, and does it straight away easily. So Si tells him that 1-5-8 is next, but that it is a lot harder and you need proper campus technique; pushing with the trailing arm, perfect timing, bit of a flick type of thing. All that flys over Danny's head as he pulls on, hits 1-5 (which is nails!), takes his trailing arm OFF, smoothly one arms on 5 and statics through to 8. Yes it was on the little rungs.  

Genetic freak! :frank:

dave

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#37 Waddage You've Seen?
November 01, 2004, 03:47:01 pm
we saw ju-ju-Nads in font. he weren't climbing, but it were still waddage.

cofe

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#38 Waddage You've Seen?
November 01, 2004, 04:09:33 pm
Quote from: "dave"
we saw ju-ju-Nads in font. he weren't climbing, but it were still waddage.


and lebreton.

:heros:

Shy Ted

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#39 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 03:26:35 pm
seeing not-a-camel (aka david lama) run up to ceuse with a rucksack on and then piss biographie on his second go.

tesco value's flash of end of th'affair, obviously.

rob clifton (aka SB, loads-a-pills, f*ckin rob, suave, etc) whenever he goes climbing

Paul B

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#40 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 03:59:29 pm
Birkett on some hard onsight up at black crag getting past  the crux, realising he had too much rope drag and so pulling his ropes through and lowering them back to his belayer  :shrug:
The same day someone pointed out the mark that chris hope left after ripping most of his gear, he landed inverted about a bodys length from the floor. All of the gear on his harness had left an obvious scar where he had impacted the rock, not what you want to hear before embarking on the same route which was certainly at my limit.

Steven Jefferey (is he in-situ at bas cuvier?) demonstrating every problem on the Carnage block (front and rear) before doing most of it again wearing a party hat for the drunk crowd below who were celebrating something. In the summer.

Our very own unclesomebody doing the crux of too hard for Malc without matching (and then declaring it easier).

The night of the first save the school meeting, walking in to watch a ridiculously high concentration of beastliness. Come on le Sausage time for the video.

Watching Ian Cummins fall of Cypher after the hard bit before it was done and casually saying he'd do it when he got back from Joshua Tree, Ben did it shortly after.

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#41 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 04:28:36 pm
Watching Ryan do careless torque was very impressive, what was more impressive was the go before he started to barn door on the the first move but instead of falling off he just ran up the arete till he was standing up. Only he could do this!!

Watching mr.variable fall from the top of earth boots at Rivelin sans gear (about 8 metres) and land his head on my elbow. After feeling dizzy he got straight back up there and topped out.

Seeing James flash Great Shark Hunt in greasy conditions and do Keen Roof

Watching Leo do malcs one armer at Raven Tor, repeatedly.

Watching Dobbin do all the hard climbing on most things and then fall off (on most things)!  ;)

Andy B popping his pulley in his little finger and then do Massive attack (8a+) and Right hand of darkness (8a) in Magic! Later that day he was spotting me, I fell about 6 feet straight onto this finger and the scream of pain awoke satan himself (it also scared the shit out of me)!

Just watching Uncle climb is quite impressive (what a body)!

Kingy

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#42 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 04:58:17 pm
Watching Vickers do Unjustified 8c at Malham after downclimbing from the crux bulge to the ground  :bow: and leaving the first 8 bolts preclipped for his redpoint.

Watching Vickers leading Raindogs and then immediately reversing it to the ground without grabbing the chain. Watching him lead All Out at Kilnsey 8b+ after having a bit of a hissy fit after blowing it on his previous attempt.

Seeing Mick Lovatt do the Well Dunne Finish 8b at Malham after a 20 minute timed rest at the belay of Zoolook before going over the top roof.

Seeing Birkett gliding up Rubis sur L'ongle like it was a route, shaking out on the crimps as he went.

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#43 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 05:01:43 pm
20 minute timed rest at the belay of Zoolook

Maybe it wasn't quite that long, but it was a long rest wedged inbetween some tufas!!

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#44 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 05:14:56 pm
every time i went climbing with huffy i think. what a fucking monster!

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#45 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 05:22:29 pm
20 minute timed rest at the belay of Zoolook

Maybe it wasn't quite that long, but it was a long rest wedged inbetween some tufas!!

Nope, it was 20mins, I was there. Chris Gore was belaying: a proper old-school wad.

Kingy

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#46 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 05:27:08 pm
Thanks dude I wondered where 20 mins came from i guess I was right after all. Just seemed so implausible!!

Kingy

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#47 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 05:49:15 pm
These seem to be coming to me all at once so here goes...!!

Belaying Stone at the Tor on his laps of the top wall of Chimes continuing into Waddage 8b after the belay. For those not familiar with Waddage, it continues over the top roof above Chimes to the top of the crag, a truly monstrous pitch when combined with the starting roof of Chimes, an 8a in its own right. He was training on the upper section to gain the necessary fitness for his eventual redpoint. Upon returning to the ground after lowering off the pitch, he confessed to me that he had only just made it and had been so pumped he had thrown up into the bushes at the top of the crag. He led the whole thing the next week....

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#48 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 06:49:02 pm
Watching some unknown frenchie casually wander up and cruise the cuvier red circuit in a 50L rucksack and flipflops.

Andy F

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#49 Re: Waddage You've Seen?
March 18, 2008, 06:57:56 pm
Watching Ste Mac do Overshadow, then casually cruise The Groove as a warm dowm was quite impressive.

 

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