the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
Training different energy systems
jwi:
Stu, are you using that CF should be 41% of the max 7s hang with a standard deviation of 6.2% as in the first of the two papers of Giles and co authors? N=12 seems small
Stu Littlefair:
From the larger second paper (around 120 participants), and my own less formal sample of friends and people I’ve tested.
The larger paper uses a different methodology (an all out test) but the results are similar, if not totally identical.
I’ve seen CF range from mid 20s for boulderers to mid 50s for very fit sport climbers.
monkoffunk:
Very possible this has been discussed already, but anyone have any thoughts on Dave Masons ultra low intensity, ultra high volume finger stuff for increasing work capacity? I’ve just listened to his recent Careless Talk podcast, and it sounds appealing as something truly supplemental with no impact on other training. Sounds totally unappealing in terms of time commitment. However, gaining strength to a certainly level is easy for me as it’s my most accessible training modality, but endurance isn’t. Going climbing is a luxury and my session stamina is so low. Would be nice to be making more of a limited resource, maybe by using other downtime.
For those who haven’t heard, it involves a spring based hinge pinch block thing which Dave uses low resistance high volume. He says someone like Barrows would get no benefit but for him as a through and through boulderer there could be significant gains.
Anyway, I don’t know I could hit the hours he suggests you need, but also hard to commit to something without much evidence beyond one person.
abarro81:
I've actually done a reasonable amount of this kind of thing in the past, with various different exercises - powerball, doing bicep curls and wrist curls with dumbbells only (or 1kg weights), holding a pinch block or pick-up edge with not much weight, EMS machines, and even juggling! Usually swapping exercises when I get bored but racking up blocks of time in front of the TV or similar.
It's really hard for me to know what does/doesn't work, but my feeling is that it's quite a lot better than nothing but not as good as "real" ARCing. It seemed to keep my fitness up when I couldn't do normal fitness for a summer due to my finger. Of course maybe that would have happened anyway. It's a lot easier than normal training to to in front of the TV, in the car (I don't do it when driving personally), or in a hotel room with work. I've also found it useful when injured - sometimes doing more ARC seems dangerous on my joints but smashing out some powerball and weights can be quite safe (though the weights can be aggro on elbows or nerve issues). Doesn't need chalk so easier to do in the living room too.
It's also nicer on skin. Doing anything for an hour or more seems like it can get tweaky so I think swapping exercises makes sense. I'm currently doing some with Pinch Thing and Powerball, and am going to keep doing it this summer at a highish volume along with normal Aero Cap to try to build some more fitness. We'll see if it works... Or more likely I won't really be able to tell like most things 😂
abarro81:
Worth noting, I don't see this being hugely useful for building work capacity (day fitness) for bouldering personally - I find my work capacity for easy climbing and for hard climbing seem quite distinct and the only way to build the latter is doing big days of hard climbing... But I do think it will build base endurance, so if that is a limiting factor for someone's work capacity on harder stuff maybe they'll have a different experience. My and Dave's limiting factors are probably rarely the same thing!
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