the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
Training different energy systems
mrjonathanr:
Belatedly, I have become more interested in this. Here's Alex's pdf and a few links I found helpful:
https://www.trainingbeta.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/1.-Alex-Barrows-Training-Doc-V2-for-training-beta.pdf
https://www.thesustainabletrainingmethod.com/tstm-blog/2018/8/28/energy-systems-survive-thrive-perform
This is the first of 5 blogposts. I found reading them as a set helped to understand how energy is produced in muscle.
No 5: https://www.thesustainabletrainingmethod.com/tstm-blog/2018/9/28/energy-systems-part-5-aerobic-kerbs-cycle-metabolic-flexibility
Tom and Ollie's site:
https://my.crimpd.com/workouts
My end goal is getting on the sharp end of some difficult (for me) trad and knowing there's something in reserve when I'm gripped And that means building capacity over a good length of time. I get the lattice stuff and the methods in that section of their site, but there's so much knowledge and experience on ukb I wanted to put a question out there:
What would people recommend as a way of training Anaerobic Capacity? Especially the short, powerful end? Ideally using a bouldering wall or even better, a board. In other words, what do people find really worked for them?
Thanks
devonshirepiemuncher:
Laddering up and down on a set of the same sized holds for 30 moves on a 30 degree board (feet on) worked for me
As you get fitter reduce the rest time until you can rest for less time than it takes to do the 30 moves
Once i could do 20 sets with the same rest time as work time I made a slightly smaller set of holds and started again
I had 8 rungs with about a foot inbetween them , skipping rungs also was good as a switch up but i could never do many sets in a row doing this as you are doing a lot more climbing for 30 moves
Managed to build enough power endurance to onsight some soft 7b sport routes with 4 months of doing this twice weekly
Stu Littlefair:
Basic principles for ancap training:
1) climbing time about the same as rest time
2) around 1.5-2 mins duration
3) hard enough to (not quite) fail on last rep of last set.
So something that’s worked really well for me in the past is to set a 15 move Boulder problem on a steep board and do 4 reps with ~2 mins rest. This is one set.
3-4 sets, with 5-6 mins between sets.
But basically anything that hits the principles above.
mrjonathanr:
Thanks for the replies, both.
Devonshire, that sounds like quite a beasting, but possibly overlapping aerobic power? ie the ability to keep going through high levels of lactate. Did your 30 moves take over 90 seconds to do? I guess you got faster too?
Stu, that's basically what I have been doing of late.
Logically, from what I get of the literature, rest times should be much longer, as the aerobic pathways won't have fully converted lactate back into pyruvate and nad+ to allow the glycolytic pathway to fully recover in that amount of time
ie it seems like rest times should be significantly longer than work times if anaerobic capacity is to be properly trained and by longer, I mean 4x, 6x, or 8x longer than work periods
Yet knowledgeable people seem to prefer to create sets with insufficient recovery between reps and better recovery between sets. That would seem to overlap with creating a tolerance for lactate (or rather H+ in the cells).
Obviously experience trumps half-arsed understanding- which is why I asked!
Duma:
Stu, so your 15 move boulder was taking you over 90 sec to climb? This seems really slow, even for shark.
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