Home
Forum
Search
Login
Register
UKBouldering.com
the shizzle
chuffing
beta - chuffing
Flow, Two Tier, Cheedale
« previous
next »
Print
Pages: [
1
]
Flow, Two Tier, Cheedale
(Read 3514 times)
Wood FT
forum hero
Posts: 2967
Karma: +164/-8
Flow, Two Tier, Cheedale
January 22, 2022, 06:55:20 pm
Hello,
I’d like to try this route and would like to gain further information from people with the knowledge. It would be at my limit, I think.
Are the holds all crimps and the pocket low down? Or is there a sneaky sloper/pinch around mid-height?
I’ve seen Ted’s video where he appears to mantle his finger tips in the low pocket to reach a hold. I’m 5’7 on a good day. How tall are you Ted? I know Ru is around my height but that’s not a helpful argument for obvious reasons.
I could go and find this out myself but time and motivation are precious.
Any general beta, however detailed, more than welcome.
Cheers all.
Guy
Logged
Kingy
forum hero
Posts: 1703
Karma: +80/-2
#1 Re: Flow, Two Tier, Cheedale
January 22, 2022, 07:02:37 pm
Heyup Guy Yes its pretty crimpy and the LH mono pocket is by the 3rd bolt. I didn't pull directly on it but used it as an intermediate. Im about 5 foot ten. A bouldery crux but if you can suss it then the rest of it isn't that bad. I don't know if anybody cranks directly on the mono, would be tough!? Well worth a look I'd say if you are headed down there!
Logged
T_B
forum hero
Posts: 3110
Karma: +151/-5
#2 Re: Flow, Two Tier, Cheedale
January 22, 2022, 08:40:03 pm
Hi Guy,
I had two full sessions on Flow last June, on redpoint pretty quickly but fell off where Ted falls off in that vid. It’s not very crimpy for a Peak 8a+ after the first 4 moves. I ended up doing the start of th crux totally differently to how Ted does it. You can stand up and use an undercut pocket out right to get that left hand sidepull rather than the tight pocket press move. The hardest move for me was moving feet up whilst compressing sidepulls and then the top slap is a lot harder on redpoint.
They’re big moves and very corey. 14 moves to easy ground. V PE.
I’d be very keen to get back on it if you fancy it once it’s dry. It’s a really nice route.
«
Last Edit: January 22, 2022, 08:45:29 pm by T_B
»
Logged
Wood FT
forum hero
Posts: 2967
Karma: +164/-8
#3 Re: Flow, Two Tier, Cheedale
January 22, 2022, 09:49:46 pm
This is great reading. I’ll be in touch closer to the season.
Logged
Davo
forum abuser
Posts: 544
Karma: +28/-4
#4 Re: Flow, Two Tier, Cheedale
January 22, 2022, 09:54:45 pm
Did Flow a couple of years ago and thought it was great. Bit crimpy but not that bad as far as Peak 8a+s go. I did think though that it is much easier the taller you are. I’m about 511 and I think if you were only 5’7 it would be pretty tough.
Logged
Wood FT
forum hero
Posts: 2967
Karma: +164/-8
#5 Re: Flow, Two Tier, Cheedale
January 22, 2022, 10:17:18 pm
That’s my worry, yep.
Logged
remus
Global Moderator
forum hero
Posts: 3175
Karma: +169/-1
#6 Re: Flow, Two Tier, Cheedale
January 24, 2022, 09:09:22 pm
Drop me a line once you've worked out the beta Wood
Im actually keen to try this though, give us a shout if you want a catch and a fellow short arse to work out beta with.
Logged
Print
Pages: [
1
]
« previous
next »
UKBouldering.com
the shizzle
chuffing
beta - chuffing
Flow, Two Tier, Cheedale
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal