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Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022 (Read 5954 times)

Liamhutch89

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#25 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 02:00:08 pm
I hate heel toes  :sick:

Sounds similar to what I have. Ironically I didn't hurt mine climbing, felt something in my knee lifting a box as I was moving house! Mine seems broadly ok on heel hooks for balance or positioning but if I'm really pulling on them I can feel it in my hamstring and down into the back of my knee. I've noticed this mostly inside on the steep roof at the Manc Depot. It seems to have improved a bit recently as I've stopped stretching my hamstrings, which might have given it some breathing space? Anything you do to aid it other than 'don't piss it off' Barrows? I experimented with doing some squats but not convinced they were doing anything without additional weight being added.

Don't take this as advice in relation to injury but if you want to make your hamstrings stronger (which I understand is ultimately the best way to recover / prevent injury?) you'd do well to find a much better exercise than nordic curls and you don't really need any equipment! A google search will explain how to do it better than I can, but I hook my feet under a sofa to do it (also requiring someone sat on it!). One word of warning they are extremely intense so go easy to start and be recovered enough.

Another way to load the hamstrings at home with more controllable intensity is an isometric deadlift. You can do this by rolling up a towel, standing in the centre of it, grabbing both ends and performing an overcoming isometric anywhere in the range of motion, which would ideally be varied, but you may require quite a long towel to do the end range! Experimenting with straight/bent legs will load the hams differently. I'm sure there are other setups or objects that can be utilised with some creative thinking!

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#26 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 03:24:47 pm
Power Club

Mon - board climbing. One foot bouldering + 2 kg very strong.
Tue - 20' session garage.
Wed - Lattice edge 85% x10; bar work 3x10; clean 4x6 60 kg.
Thu - board climbing.
Fri - boxing bag.
Sat - weights.
Sun - stairs and hill sprints.

Quite happy about my climbing, I'm enjoying it.

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#27 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 03:26:48 pm
M: G1. Squats 175lb X5 *5sets. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *3. Trap bar deadlift 225lb X5 *3sets. Pull-ups X5 *3sets (mostly pain-free!). Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.

T: Walk around park with dog. Lower body stretching. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +50lb HC. Tried Open hand 20mm failed -40lb pain-free. Kilter board climbing at 20 degrees *3sets, 25 degrees *3sets, tried a set at 30 degrees but hand tired. Climbing was more dynamic which felt good! Dumbbell Row 60lb X8 *3sets. Reverse Flys 12.5lb X8 *3sets. Kettlebell balance + shoulder press 13lb (35lb R) X5 *3sets. Bicep Curls 40lb X8 *3sets.

W: Walk around park with dog. Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 15lb OH *1, 20lb OH *3.  Heel-elevated squats 150lb X5 *3sets. Dumbbell RDLs 60lb (2) X5 *3sets. Bosu ball single-leg balance 30s *3sets. Pull-ups X6 *3sets. Trap bar deadlift 245lb X3 *3sets.

T: Walk around park with dog. Lower body stretching. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +55lb HC. Kilter board climbing at 30 degrees *3sets then tried problems. Completed 2 V1, 3 V2, 3 V3. Felt good but had to be careful on certain hold types. Dumbbell Row 60lb X8 *3sets. Reverse Flys 12.5lb X8 *3sets. Kettlebell balance + shoulder press 18lb (35lb R) X5 *3sets. Bicep Curls 45lb X6 *3sets.

F: Walk around park with dog. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 15lb OH *1, 20lb OH *1, 25lb OH *2.  Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.

S: Lower body stretching. East Draw, Eldorado Canyon. Did 3 V1s and 2 V2s a few times - still a long way to go. Fine full crimping but pain in any other position, nice to be outside at least

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#28 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 07:17:58 pm
Mon-Friday: Nowt - resting after being out winter climbing, and then nursing a persistent sore wrist after faceplanting on the fucking path back to the car, slipped on ice.
Sat: short session @TCA before being called out to work. Wrist felt fine climbing, I felt fat and weak. Left brachialis/bicep a bit niggly still.
Sun: Some rehab weights for brachialis (mainly just isometric dumbell holds at various positions, massage, stretching)
Yoga (should mobility) couldn't do a few fairly standard positions due to wrist, but it seemed to work on fingers or knuckles.

Generally a bit annoyed at the onset of niggles and then tweaking my wrist, but it could be worse.

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#29 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 02:23:20 pm
End-of-year goals:                  
Onsight/flash 5 F7as                  
Boulder Fb7A+                  
                  
January goals:                  
Build foundations and training capacity                  
Weight: 72.5kg, 15.5% bodyfat. AIM: 71kg 12% bodyfat                  
Still getting terrible sleep with night waking but training went OK.

M: Rest

Tu: Calisthenics warm up plus fingerboard repeaters. Switched to 6:4 from 7:3 as feels less tweaky to me. Did bodyweight + 1.25kg which is good improvement from where I used to be. Also did pinch block training, 4 sets @ 90% max, Tindeq Endurance program was very helpful for this. RH weaker, wonder if this is to do with shoulder instability at the moment?

W: Rest

Thu: Aerocap routes session. Did 5x sets of 3 back to back routes, hardest 6b+ onsight. This felt about right intensity. Got a bit pumped at times but worked it off.

Fr: Rest

Sat: Put my mid-upper thoracic back out by doing a stretch designed to improve back mobility. Lesson learned, don't do neck/back exercises when I first get out of bed. Wasn't the worst tweak but my neck went a bit sideways. Felt a bit depressed. Went to the wall anyway. Bouldering warm up. Got up to about V4-5ish. Then 3x 30 sec density hangs at bodyweight - slight assist with toes on the wall. Then 20 minutes continuous easy bouldering. Ran out of time for more sets and had to come home.

Sun: Bad night's sleep again. Felt exhausted and bit low. Back tweak did not help. Went for a walk by the river which was quite nice though very busy.

Looking back at the week it was good for training as stuck to the goals of finger strength and aerocap training at two opposite ends of spectrum. Hopefully this lays good foundation. Weight/fat is starting to creep down too which is good.          

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#30 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 03:56:28 pm
M. Acro yoga and running physio

T. Warm up and then Max hang tests (7s). Doing on a large campus rung (27mm but very rounded). Got to +45kg (65% BW) before Partner noticed a weight dab. Was knackered and couldn’t be arsed repeating them. Best dab free one would have been 35kg or maybe 40kg (had to use longer sling when got to 40kg).

W. Board session. Mainly trying longer problems whilst I get more confidence that my finger is recovered. Good session.

T. Physio session - lots of running on treadmill and adjusting pace. Aiming for 170 cadence now which seems comfortable. Run is now in a much better place - no/minimal heel strikes and my crossovers seem to have corrected themselves at the same time.

F. Intervals run around the woods (20 mins) and a short board session before going for a beer. Not sure what the board session trained, but basically just did circuits where the other person choose each hold you went to. Made you do quite different moves and hang on for longer - was fun.

S. Board warm up and day out a Brimham. No ticks but good fun. First session out since injuring my finger in October

S. Loads of walking with the dog and then a quick 45 min board session.



Really pleased with how things are going. Finger is seeming fine. Back to some of my old board problems. Don’t feel Piss weak. Running is getting better.

Definitely don’t have the same snap I had 3 months ago though. Same problems feel way more sluggish, but still controlled. Possibly due to feeing absolutely knackered at the moment and only being back at it a few weeks…

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#31 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 04:24:52 pm

Sat: Put my mid-upper thoracic back out by doing a stretch designed to improve back mobility. Lesson learned, don't do neck/back exercises when I first get out of bed.          


Isn't the lesson here "don't do stretching"?

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#32 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 06:11:55 pm

Sat: Put my mid-upper thoracic back out by doing a stretch designed to improve back mobility. Lesson learned, don't do neck/back exercises when I first get out of bed.          


Isn't the lesson here "don't do stretching"?

I think if I do the right sort of stretching at the right time it might be a good idea. But that's the second time I've put my back/neck out stretching first thing in the morning so I definitely think that's not right for me.

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#33 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 07:50:54 pm
Bit late to the party on this weeks but that’ll become clear why next week…

M. Home session
Max hangs. Warmed up with hangs progressing up from +20kg up to +40kg
Then 5x7 second hands @ +42.5kg
Short project session on the board on a couple of older problems, surprised at how hard they felt must have been going well at the time!
Weighted pull up pyramid with same numbers as last session.

T. Ilkley with Bradders, 36 and Footwork.
Did 3 more reps 3rd time, then did it from a direct sit at a similar grade. Spent the rest of the session figuring out Bernie the Bolt, pretty tough move the get across in to flakes at the top of 3MR managed to pull it out of the bag right at the end of the day. A good day with a solid crew.

W.

T. Eavestone with Buck
Went back to try Digital Dilemma after being close last week. Tweaked a little bit of beta to get to the end more efficiently and after a few goes from the start got it done. The end is definitely one of the few occasions that it is harder for the tall especially with my long legs, it’s a very small space to fit a lot of limb.
Back at home finished up the same pull up pyramid + 3x8reps of Press up and Archers Rows on Rings and some negative flys on TRX.

F. Planned to do a board session but got home from work a felt pretty tired and lacking in motivation

S. Mileage session at City Bloc. Just ran around for an hour or so on the yellows and some purples

S.

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#34 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 10:18:00 pm
  Could not comprehend how Omega works. Any videos / beta?



Liamhutch89

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#35 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 11:03:19 pm
Brilliant! I've definitely seen that video before too. I wasn't sure whether you were allowed into the corner from the description "finish up the left arete on its left side" but that makes much more sense now.

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#36 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 19, 2022, 09:00:18 am
The main aim this wk was to get back into the board after a couple of weeks off over Christmas and a busy start to the year.

M - Board session, much better than Sunday's. managed to flash all the circuit 1 problems and some of the circuit 2. Climbed a new, hard (for me) problem on the board. Also managed to climb a couple of the circuit 3 problems. All in all a good session. Could feel the ability to try hard coming back.
T - Board session - mileage. Climbed all the circuit 1 and circuit 2 problems including the mirrored problems. Felt tired after 2 days on the board so probably should have had a rest day. Managed to warm up quicker though and had a better session than I thought I would
W - Fingerboard. 30 pull ups to warm up, then the following, all on the outside edge: 4 finger, 3 finger, back 3 half crimp, front 3  drag (2 sets)
T - rest
F - Intended to get out but reports of poor conditions from Tomtom put me off. Active rest (gardening) most of the day.
S - family day
S - search for dry rock - Ousels was almost completely wet and looks like staying that way for some time, Jumbles had some dry sections. Intended to clean CP but didn't realise how bad the ground conditions were, disappointing. traversed a bit on the long flat wall but couldn't muster much psyche, chatted with r-man a bit, then came home. Did scope out a few problems to add to the list though, so not all lost.
Had a very good board session, climbed all mirrored problems on circuit 1 and 2, worked on some problems I couldn't do before Christmas. Felt strong, concentrated on breath control, surprised at the difference it made, so I need to work on this.

All in all a good week, felt strong on the board but 3 days on is probably pushing it as I felt knackered towards the end of the week. Felt like the focus is coming back and using the Cragpad is really helping maintain the psyche and keep the plan on track.

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#37 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 19, 2022, 09:22:01 pm
Feel free to write those grade opinions (and any other info) in my guide, please. Helpful info.

Unfortunately the pages are too glossy to write on

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#38 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 20, 2022, 06:42:45 am
Feel free to write those grade opinions (and any other info) in my guide, please. Helpful info.

Unfortunately the pages are too glossy to write on

Oh well, a single side of A4 neatly folded and tucked into the required page will have to suffice then.

 

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