UKBouldering.com

Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022 (Read 5955 times)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 04:53:30 pm
M Rain

T Still raining in the morning. FB warmup on door frame. Weather cleared up in Pamplona so headed out to crag which was still shrouded in cloud and drizzly. Pulled over and considered our options and decided to sit it out. Cloud burnt off, sun came out and crag looked amazingly dry. Went up to the popular Indio sector. Started with a disappointing 6b which had been recommended then did another excellent 6b+ Faxirismo Vertical then the not quite so good 6c to its right. Decided to have a go at G6 a classic 7b. Found out a couple of days later I was on the route to it’s right also given 7b. The bolts on the headwall were miles apart and I was scared but managed to get to the last bolt but didn’t have enough left for the final couple of fingery moves. Felt wrecked afterwards.

W.

T. Forgot to do FB warmup 1.5 degrees and frosty but shirts off at the crag. Went back to the Indio sector which was busy. Did a couple of nice warm up routes then a did butch 6c+ and had a bash at another tough and fingery 7b Anita Dinamita. Came unstuck at penultimate bolt and dogged to top and stripped it. Struggled to find a vacant warm down route so had a look at a 6c on the end of the sector which was a bit shit and I bailed when it started to get hard.

F. Rest day. Back stretching and massage. A few one arm lock offs and assisted front lever experimentation to keep the strength ticking over for Bens

S. FB warmup. Ditusuaien sector to avoid crowds. Lovely up there. Duncan did the 6a+ but wasn’t happy with the belay. I wasn’t either which was part of the motivation to do the 7a+ extension. Found this the living end. Blind and techy vertical climbing such as teetering up on poor thumb sprags on uninspiring and spaced bolts in poor clipping positions and ended up dogging it with some trauma. Would be great if properly bolted. Took advantage of the better belay for P2 of Las Maravi to strip it. The 6b+ to the right was forgettable and then Duncan set up the 7a+ sector classic of the same name. Felt tired but taking advantage of Duncan’s beta flashed it without getting pumped although thought I might fall off the final move due to lack of leg flexibility.

S. PM Some more one arm lock offs and lengthy assisted front levers. Back stretching and leg/hip flexibility

Trip going great now rain stopped with perfect climbing conditions which are forecast to continue. Grades quoted above are my own opinion as most of the routes here are sandbags.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#1 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 06:04:29 pm
Feel free to write those grade opinions (and any other info) in my guide, please. Helpful info.

Aussiegav

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +29/-10
    • Climberbiker.
#2 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 06:36:08 pm
Thanks Shark.
I’d be interested in seeing the structure to your lock off training.  :thumbsup:


Monday

Working from home. Early starts at work from home allows for an earlier than usual finish.
Warmed up with crimp curl repeaters with 7.5kg, increased to 12.7kg for last set and then 3x single 10s half crimp curls with 20kg.
Then four longer hangs with 60s rest. Starting from 20s, 25s and increased to 30s for the last two. Using a big black resistance band to kneel on while hanging to finish the warm up.

Density hangs. 4x30s. body weight (86kg) – 12.7kg assistance.
These were all max effort. Each one was an absolute fight to the end.
I guess keeping strict half crimp form is not essential based on what I’ve read about these types of hangs.


Tuesday

Awesome Walls after work.

I followed the ‘Projecting Your Limit’ programme from Vertical Life app.
Warmed up on a few routes then worked quick Redpoint routes at 6b+.
I was tired and fingers were fatigued after that. Went up a 6a to finish the session.


Wednesday:
40min Peloton ride

Thursday.
Rest day.

Friday:
Went to Awesome Walls in the evening. Had a 2hour Moonboard session in the 2019 set at both 25 & 40 degree. Really enjoyed the 25degree board. Did 29 problems in total. Felt wrecked at the end.


Saturday:
Rest day.

Sunday
Went to the School for a pre-dawn session.
Got there and wasn’t feeling the psych for it. I thought I’d perk up as I warmed up. But as I started to pull on to the holds my skin was already smarting, not fully recovered from Friday night’s session. So I opted for a session of Density Hangs.

Finished with conditioning.
Nothing too intense. Took it easy.
Bench Press 3×8 27kg.
Single overhead press. 1×10 (5kg). 3×8 (10kg)
Bench Dips. 3×10.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
#3 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 06:45:38 pm
Thanks for the guide WoodFT!

M - Rained. Walked around the Kale Borroka sectors, the hard person area of Etxauri. Some very impressive rock and good vulture spotting. Shoulder conditioning.
T - Etxauri (Espolon del Indio). Glorious weather, stunning views. Attempted to warm-up on Buitrera [Basque for vulture, appropriately] 6a+ but ended up fighting when I should have been hanging. Flashed Fakirismo vertical 6b+ and Nada que decir 6c with encouragement from Simon which cheered me up.
W - Battered. Explored Pamplona, about 10km walking. Shoulder conditioning.
T - Etxauri (Espolon del Indio). Glorious weather, stunning views.  Quite busy, even had some French visitors. Warmed-up on Ikatzakarbon 5c and Di tantas vueltas que perdi el rumbo 6a+. Flashed the rather more challenging Olentzero (6b++).
F - Explored Pamplona. Walked  ~14km. Shoulder conditioning.
S - Etxauri (Ditusuaien). Glorious weather, even more stunning views.
 Warmed-up on La majari 6a+ and Las Maravi 6b+, feeling like I was moving much more smoothly. Got on the route of the sector (7a) which was excellent. Onsighted to the crux but faffed for a bit too long and ran out of gas. Dogged the rest of the route which wasn’t a push-over and didn’t have enough left for a redpoint go. Simon flashed it making encouraging noises about the grade.
S - Battered. Explored Pamplona, about 10km walking. Shoulder conditioning.

Really enjoying Etxauri, a fine spot and great climbing that suits my tastes: mostly long, vertical and techy. After the damp first couple of days conditions have been ideal: frosty mornings, single figure temps., and sunny all day. The grades are consistently quite stern “you’re not in Catalonia” as one of the locals put it and I don’t see it becoming popular with Climb Your First 7a coaching holidays.

Feeling my age/weight/unfitness/old injuries and it’s taking time to get back into the swing of things. Fortunately we have time for me to pace myself back up.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#4 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 06:49:52 pm
Thanks Shark.
I’d be interested in seeing the structure to your lock off training.  :thumbsup:

You’re going to be disappointed. A couple of two armed locks to warm up then three pronated one arm 90 degree locks for 3/4 secs and the same supinated.

It’s just maintenance specifically for two of the moves on Bens so in fact I only really need to do them on my left arm.

I’m really cautious about this sort of stuff as I find it tweaky so will back off if I get any twinges

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#5 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 07:43:11 pm
Out of curiosity how much is 3/4 seconds compared to your max one armed lock-off time? Do you run quite close to maximal or reduce the time substantially?

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#6 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 07:52:25 pm
Out of curiosity how much is 3/4 seconds compared to your max one armed lock-off time? Do you run quite close to maximal or reduce the time substantially?

That’s about max for my left. Can hold for a lot longer with my right but not bothered about that at the moment. I’m only doing it because  it’s specific to Bens. I don’t think it’s very useful as a general climbing exercise and is tweaky.

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 786
  • Karma: +93/-2
#7 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 08:23:06 pm
“you’re not in Catalonia” as one of the locals put it and I don’t see it becoming popular with Climb Your First 7a coaching holidays.

 :lol:

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 786
  • Karma: +93/-2
#8 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 08:28:54 pm
Felt wrecked from last Sunday's board session for a few days so took it a bit easy this week.

Jan Goals
- do 90% of planned sessions - bad week for this, skipped 2 sessions, as the week was derailed from the start
- lose 2kg - no movement on this...

Weight: 77.3kg

Monday
Knackered, rest

Tuesday
Rest
Stretching 20 mins

Wednesday
Hangs, 2 armed on lattice edge. 5x10 seconds + 18kg
Board - working two new problems, ok level - couldn't do either of them.
On the minute boulders x 15 minutes

Thursday
Rest

Friday
Mileage on flash level boulders, tried around 10, did 4. Did a 6B+ and a 6C on the moonboard afterwards.

Saturday
Nothing

Sunday
Nothing

Crap week, went too hard to soon last week. Need to stick to the plan this coming week   :whip:

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#9 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 09:05:36 pm
M - TCA, bouldering, 90min, blacks (6C -7A+). Decent session. 2 x 1:20 min plank.
T - Redpoint, routes, OS 6b, 6b+, 7a+, 7a+, 7b+, 7b, 7b+ (2nd go), 7b+(dropped top after missing a foothold, think I'd have OS this too apart from that). All steepish. 2 x 1:20 plank.
W - Dartmoor, bouldering, Leigh Tor to take advantage of an amazing forecast and check out a couple of lines I'd been alerted to by Grants best of 2021 post. Woke to a city covered in clag, but UKB delivered reassuring conditions reports and sure enough once I'd cleared the Somerset border it was blue skies all day. Beautiful spot, some nice easier things to warm up, then was chuffed to managed The Prow (7B) in a few goes. The RH line, Gym Monkeys (7B) held out a little longer but in the end pieced together a sequence that vaguely followed the description and felt the right sort of difficulty. More importantly was fun moves! Couple of easy solos, then rewarded myself with a pint in the Tavistock Inn. Was going to head home but couldn't resist stopping on the way past Saddle Tor for laps of Mezzotinter (E1) and Bjorn Again (E2)(from sitting, ofc) before watching the sunset. Magic day, haven't had one like that on the moor for years. 2 x 1:20 plank.
T - Run, 2 x 4km (5 min break in middle as dropping a book to a mate), flatish, pavement, 22min each way. Took it easy as my "cider soak knee/hamstring" was feeling tweaky after a lot of driving and few left heel hooks yesterday. 2 x 1:30 plank.
F - ancap repeaters on lattice edge, 7:3 x 6 x 6 sets @ BW. 2 x 1:30 plank.
S - work, 12hrs. Run, 6km, flat, trail, 31min. Took it easy as leg still not totally happy. 2 x 1:30 plank.
S - work, 12hrs. Aeropow repeaters on lattice edge, 7:3 x 12 x 6 sets @ 50kg. Managed to keep form all the way. 2 x 1:30 plank

71.5kg

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#10 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 16, 2022, 09:11:44 pm
Took it easy as my "cider soak knee/hamstring" was feeling tweaky

My knee twinged as I read that

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3633
  • Karma: +199/-3
#11 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 09:28:48 am
Goal: New (to me) outdoor Font 7a

W: LSD trip - intended to take it easy to give tweaked side a run out. Ended up doing a V6 that defeated me last time and a couple of new V5s.

Sun: Climbing Hub with eldest - good session, did a fair few of the Black 6a-6b-ish ones, mainly flashes and daughter did some of the routes and auto-belays. Only on the auto-belay, but I clipped in and did a 7a+ second go, which was a bit of a surprise!


Still dealing with post-vaccine night-sweats after > 3 weeks, meaning terrible sleep. Spoke to doc on Fri and booked in for blood tests etc but sounds like it might be a "wait and see" thing.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2818
  • Karma: +159/-4
#12 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 10:02:50 am
Took it easy as my "cider soak knee/hamstring" was feeling tweaky after a lot of driving and few left heel hooks yesterday.

I've never been on Cider Soak but this sounds quite similar to something I've been feeling in my hamstring recently. Only flares up when I really pull on a left heel hook or sit cross legged or similar. What did you diagnose yours as/ do to help it recover?

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +40/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#13 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 10:08:46 am
Not in Spain Club....

M: Sulking @ AW - 1000m on rowing machine... 5 x Fast pullups x 2... 3 x 4 routes up to F6b+ on autobelays (actually tried a F7a twice during these too but got spanked at about 10m!) 7 mins rest between sets... Close to vomiting on last rep... Easy climbing and shoulder conditioning to cool down (take this as a given before and after every session)...
T: Sulking @ AW -  2000m on rowing machine, 5 x fast pulls, 3 x circuits up to V2, 8 x moonboard problems up to 6B (mostly in the 6A - 6A+ range tbf), 2 x 4 routes up to F6b 7 mins between sets, 15 mins bouldering repeating yellows (v6-8) I'd done before and trying a new one (DNF)...
W: Sulking @ AW -  3000m on rowing machine, 5 x fast pulls, 2 x circuits up to V2, 15mins on XClimb board @ vertical.
T: Nowt (bit of a walk with the hound to keep up with the Sharkathon)
F: Not quite so sulky @ AW - Few auto belays to warmup then 1.5hrs bouldering on new black circuit and repeating yellows... Hard!
S: AW with the boy - Autos up to F6c, got him to belay me on a few low F6's, got him leading a bit and spent an hour or so bouldering (mopping up new blacks)... Went to see Spiderman - was pretty crap but was good to spend time with the boy and he seemed to enjoy it...
S: Stanton Moor - Wet as and otters pocket! Had a good scope tho, stuff on the Andlestone looks mint as do bumlog et al... Mate with Hangar membership got us in free so had 2hrs or so there doing mostly mid grade problems (purple) with a few harder ones thrown in for good measure (red & white)... Absolutely trashed! Not sure bout that place tbh, felt like I was a clear 20 years older than most of the folk there but the vibe was definitely less convivial than I'm used to (i.e. very little eye contact, funny looks when discussing beta etc.) Definitely felt more like a gym than a wall... On the plus side there were no old guys in their underpants getting changed in the middle of the room and everyone still had their own teeth  :lol:

Strange week for me, was stewing about missing out on Spain so climbed a lot but generally just did a lot of bouldering as GF is still isolating and I couldn't blag a catch. Glad for the Auto belays @ AW but am quite enjoying bouldering again tbf... Shoulder and elbows are feeling it today though so hopefully the GF will test negative this week so I can get back on the string...

mr chaz

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 452
  • Karma: +59/-0
#14 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 10:15:54 am
Power Club:

Mon - Fri: Nothing really.
Sat - Sun: Finished building woodie. Had about 1 hour climbing on it, first climbing I've done since May last year. Savage!

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#15 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 10:17:21 am
M - lunchtime fingerboard. 3x 10s 26mm edge half crimp, 3 min rests, +45kg. Then 10s 20mm edge half crimp pick ups, 6x middle 2 and 6x front 2. Dropped weight slightly from last week for 2nd half of the middle 2.

Tu - Ilkley. Good team. Turned out we were quite lucky it was all dry as apparently even Almscliff was damp. Spent the whole session on Three More Reps. James made it look extremely easy. 36C and Footwork also did it quick albeit had to heckle Footwork after he dropped off from the flake (i.e. having done all the hard climbing). Meanwhile I struggled with 2 moves low down; definitely exposing a weakness which I know I have around close compression moves (particularly moving out of close compression). Did the top off a ladder in a couple of goes. Finally got through the 3rd move once only to fall off the 4th! Thankfully had a last go best go, just did the 3rd move and kept it together to the top. Very satisfying. Great problem.

W - lunchtime board doubles, 6 problems. Better than last week, made it further on 2nd rep on a couple of them, still failed half. Fully powered out by the end.

Th - conditioning; pull ups, leg lifts, front and lateral raises and external rotation. Plus foot on campussing, 10x 60secs on 90secs off.

F - rest

Sa - fingerboard, 6x 10s 26mm edge half crimp, 3 min rests. First 3 +50kg but failed 3rd at 7s so dropped to 45kg for the rest. Then an hour and a bit on the board. Annoyingly during warm ups failed to do 1 of the problems I normally do doubles on! Then limit stuff; I've set a new, much harder, replica of Ben's Groove Sit and this was first proper opportunity to try it. Did 3 of the moves, 4 I didn't do in isolation; excellent. Feels nails. Made up a couple of other newbies including another project replica (Pacman at Trowbarrow), all with limit moves that I didn't manage in the session but feel doable. Finished with conditioning; bicep curls and Arnold press, plus aerocap; 10 mins continuous easy climbing at low pump. 5km walk in the evening (trying to walk more!).

Su - 4km walk

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
#16 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 10:44:25 am
Losing weight. Down almost 1kg this week. Starving!

T: am - weighted pull ups, half crimp pick ups. pm - max hang drags, board, dragon flags

W: am - open hand max hangs, weighted ring dips. pm - city block unstructured session

F : am - half crimp max hangs, handstand presses. pm - chevin to try like a hurricane. Clear conditions turned to heavy fog just as I pulled in at the parking! Went for a speculative look, got lost in the fog, but to my amazement eventually found it in adequate condition. Didn't get very far (think I only did 3 of the moves) but psyched to have a project that's c. 35 min away rather than 1 hour +. Top will need a clean in order to do the full line. Could not comprehend how Omega works. Any videos / beta?

S - am - open hand max hangs, weighted pull ups. pm - board

Training on 4 days per week feels like a nice amount of volume. I'll try and stick to this for a while.

iain

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 672
  • Karma: +31/-0
#17 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 11:34:04 am

New name @aussiegav  :wave:


General goals:  stay injury free, continue finger/general prehab routines
Short: A few potential bouldering projects now on the list thanks in part to best of 21
Medium: Unleashing and Why Me in the spring

Weight: 68.3kg average

2 weeks worth again:

Week 1:
2 short board sessions, not much else that I remember. Just ticking over

Week 2:
Mon: Board session where all my projects (bar one) got flashed by a newcomer, dismaying and inspiring at the same time. At least "the future" project got a shake of the head.
Better session than I've had recently

Tues or Weds: Brief evening out at Curbar, lots of damp rock and too cold for me really

Thurs: Made it to the parking at Horseshoe, partner had forgotten harness. The made visit 4 where I hadn't done any climbing

Fri: Visit 5, arrived just as main wall started losing the sun but actual climbing was done!
Was a pleasant surprise too, School's Out, Rotund Rooley then the full onsight experience on Private Prosecution, felt trad like, even more so thanks to the bolt spacing. Would've done more but was too cold and condensing by then.

Sat: Cliff Top boulders but couldn't get fingers warm and didn't do much. Keen for a trip back.


Aiming to get outside as much as possible in the sun this week and restart the stretching/strengthening/prehab routines.
Also plan next training block.

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
#18 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 12:43:14 pm
M - Trail run 16.71km 668m. Stretching + elbow rehab.

T - Trail run 16.34km 668m. Stretching + elbow rehab. Short finger board session (Body weight front 3 + back 3 Lattice Edge). Fingers felt good but pull ups were a no go with the elbow.

W - Trail run 16.19km 626m. Stretching + elbow rehab.

T - Trail run 16.95km 613m. Indoor bouldering - not a bad session. Haven't lost too much in the fingers or core but some moves are a no go with the elbow.

F - Trail run 16.52km.

S - Climbing at Achleiten. Warmed up on a 6a+ that was good but desperate for the grade! Was crowded at the crag so I went completely against my plan to stick to mid 7s for my elbow and went on a short bouldery 8a+ that was free! First go up I felt really good, the moves were great and I did them all quickly. Unfortunately after not much climbing for a month my skin was trash and I was already bleeding through the tip on the crux first pad sloper. 1st RP my finger was wet on the sloper. 2nd RP I managed to chalk mid crux, do the crux but then somehow explode of the right hand hold taking most of my knuckles off. 3rd RP I got through the crux again only for my foot to explode off. Very frustrating but I was pleased how good I felt on the rock in general. Think the 2 week break for my elbow did me good so I will try and program in a 2 week break at least once or twice a year instead of constantly trying to train or climb.

S - AM: XC skiing 30.66km 225m. PM: Trail running 15.6km 619m.

Pretty solid week for the trail running training although I am always walking a fine line between getting stronger and getting injured with so much volume. The elbow is still very cranky but I didn't feel it all climbing outdoors, although it was sore the next day. Indoor climbing or anything involving pull ups is still not great though.   

Aussiegav

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +29/-10
    • Climberbiker.
#19 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 12:47:36 pm

Fri: Visit 5, arrived just as main wall started losing the sun but actual climbing was done!
Was a pleasant surprise too, School's Out, Rotund Rooley then the full onsight experience on Private Prosecution, felt trad like, even more so thanks to the bolt spacing. Would've done more but was too cold and condensing by then.

 :clap2: Good effort clipping bolts in these temps. I’ve been wondering if it’s been possible to get out side.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#20 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 12:50:59 pm
Took it easy as my "cider soak knee/hamstring" was feeling tweaky

My knee twinged as I read that
Took it easy as my "cider soak knee/hamstring" was feeling tweaky after a lot of driving and few left heel hooks yesterday.

I've never been on Cider Soak but this sounds quite similar to something I've been feeling in my hamstring recently. Only flares up when I really pull on a left heel hook or sit cross legged or similar. What did you diagnose yours as/ do to help it recover?
Err tbh nothing - and it's not really recovered! Cider Soak has a rest before the top crux, and to leave it/start the upper crux you have a high left heel toe in, and move your hips across towards it. The summer before last I was doing this move when something went crunch in the outside/back of my right knee. no pain really, and I actually did the moves at least once more that day, but def knew I'd damaged something the next morning.
Knee was a bit tender for a few weeks, and felt pretty weak and dodgy on "open hipped" heel hooks for about 6 weeks - was ok on heels with the knee above the foot though if that makes sense? Since then the knee has improved a bit so now am okish on open heels with care, but has developed into discomfort in the hamstring - this seems especially aggravated by long drives or stints at a desk. Running, and movement in general, seems to help. Should really get it seen/scanned, but I'm lazy, and covid etc

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
#21 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 01:04:54 pm
Sounds like classic LCL tweak from sideways heel (particularly moving towards them). I'm v prone to them.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2818
  • Karma: +159/-4
#22 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 01:10:44 pm
I hate heel toes  :sick:

Sounds similar to what I have. Ironically I didn't hurt mine climbing, felt something in my knee lifting a box as I was moving house! Mine seems broadly ok on heel hooks for balance or positioning but if I'm really pulling on them I can feel it in my hamstring and down into the back of my knee. I've noticed this mostly inside on the steep roof at the Manc Depot. It seems to have improved a bit recently as I've stopped stretching my hamstrings, which might have given it some breathing space? Anything you do to aid it other than 'don't piss it off' Barrows? I experimented with doing some squats but not convinced they were doing anything without additional weight being added.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
#23 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 01:16:01 pm
Yours sounds more like a hamstring, I'm not used to rehabbing them (but have a tweaked one as of last week!), but am told they can take a long time to fully get back to feeling good. Bridges and slides and other similar strengthening exercises seem to be common rehab AFAIK

iain

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 672
  • Karma: +31/-0
#24 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 01:27:16 pm

 :clap2: Good effort clipping bolts in these temps. I’ve been wondering if it’s been possible to get out side.
Definitely with the sun, and even with no sun/wind it was ok while climbing, so nice to be moving on rock.
The main problem was getting cold belaying despite wearing all the clothes and we arrived just as we were losing the sun at the base of the wall, maybe 1:30. Folk had been there all day enjoying it.

Aiming to catch some more sun this week while it lasts.

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
#25 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 02:00:08 pm
I hate heel toes  :sick:

Sounds similar to what I have. Ironically I didn't hurt mine climbing, felt something in my knee lifting a box as I was moving house! Mine seems broadly ok on heel hooks for balance or positioning but if I'm really pulling on them I can feel it in my hamstring and down into the back of my knee. I've noticed this mostly inside on the steep roof at the Manc Depot. It seems to have improved a bit recently as I've stopped stretching my hamstrings, which might have given it some breathing space? Anything you do to aid it other than 'don't piss it off' Barrows? I experimented with doing some squats but not convinced they were doing anything without additional weight being added.

Don't take this as advice in relation to injury but if you want to make your hamstrings stronger (which I understand is ultimately the best way to recover / prevent injury?) you'd do well to find a much better exercise than nordic curls and you don't really need any equipment! A google search will explain how to do it better than I can, but I hook my feet under a sofa to do it (also requiring someone sat on it!). One word of warning they are extremely intense so go easy to start and be recovered enough.

Another way to load the hamstrings at home with more controllable intensity is an isometric deadlift. You can do this by rolling up a towel, standing in the centre of it, grabbing both ends and performing an overcoming isometric anywhere in the range of motion, which would ideally be varied, but you may require quite a long towel to do the end range! Experimenting with straight/bent legs will load the hams differently. I'm sure there are other setups or objects that can be utilised with some creative thinking!

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#26 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 03:24:47 pm
Power Club

Mon - board climbing. One foot bouldering + 2 kg very strong.
Tue - 20' session garage.
Wed - Lattice edge 85% x10; bar work 3x10; clean 4x6 60 kg.
Thu - board climbing.
Fri - boxing bag.
Sat - weights.
Sun - stairs and hill sprints.

Quite happy about my climbing, I'm enjoying it.

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
#27 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 03:26:48 pm
M: G1. Squats 175lb X5 *5sets. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *3. Trap bar deadlift 225lb X5 *3sets. Pull-ups X5 *3sets (mostly pain-free!). Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.

T: Walk around park with dog. Lower body stretching. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +50lb HC. Tried Open hand 20mm failed -40lb pain-free. Kilter board climbing at 20 degrees *3sets, 25 degrees *3sets, tried a set at 30 degrees but hand tired. Climbing was more dynamic which felt good! Dumbbell Row 60lb X8 *3sets. Reverse Flys 12.5lb X8 *3sets. Kettlebell balance + shoulder press 13lb (35lb R) X5 *3sets. Bicep Curls 40lb X8 *3sets.

W: Walk around park with dog. Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 15lb OH *1, 20lb OH *3.  Heel-elevated squats 150lb X5 *3sets. Dumbbell RDLs 60lb (2) X5 *3sets. Bosu ball single-leg balance 30s *3sets. Pull-ups X6 *3sets. Trap bar deadlift 245lb X3 *3sets.

T: Walk around park with dog. Lower body stretching. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +55lb HC. Kilter board climbing at 30 degrees *3sets then tried problems. Completed 2 V1, 3 V2, 3 V3. Felt good but had to be careful on certain hold types. Dumbbell Row 60lb X8 *3sets. Reverse Flys 12.5lb X8 *3sets. Kettlebell balance + shoulder press 18lb (35lb R) X5 *3sets. Bicep Curls 45lb X6 *3sets.

F: Walk around park with dog. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 15lb OH *1, 20lb OH *1, 25lb OH *2.  Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.

S: Lower body stretching. East Draw, Eldorado Canyon. Did 3 V1s and 2 V2s a few times - still a long way to go. Fine full crimping but pain in any other position, nice to be outside at least

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4315
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#28 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 17, 2022, 07:17:58 pm
Mon-Friday: Nowt - resting after being out winter climbing, and then nursing a persistent sore wrist after faceplanting on the fucking path back to the car, slipped on ice.
Sat: short session @TCA before being called out to work. Wrist felt fine climbing, I felt fat and weak. Left brachialis/bicep a bit niggly still.
Sun: Some rehab weights for brachialis (mainly just isometric dumbell holds at various positions, massage, stretching)
Yoga (should mobility) couldn't do a few fairly standard positions due to wrist, but it seemed to work on fingers or knuckles.

Generally a bit annoyed at the onset of niggles and then tweaking my wrist, but it could be worse.

Rocksteady

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Crank
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +45/-0
  • Hotter than the sun!
#29 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 02:23:20 pm
End-of-year goals:                  
Onsight/flash 5 F7as                  
Boulder Fb7A+                  
                  
January goals:                  
Build foundations and training capacity                  
Weight: 72.5kg, 15.5% bodyfat. AIM: 71kg 12% bodyfat                  
Still getting terrible sleep with night waking but training went OK.

M: Rest

Tu: Calisthenics warm up plus fingerboard repeaters. Switched to 6:4 from 7:3 as feels less tweaky to me. Did bodyweight + 1.25kg which is good improvement from where I used to be. Also did pinch block training, 4 sets @ 90% max, Tindeq Endurance program was very helpful for this. RH weaker, wonder if this is to do with shoulder instability at the moment?

W: Rest

Thu: Aerocap routes session. Did 5x sets of 3 back to back routes, hardest 6b+ onsight. This felt about right intensity. Got a bit pumped at times but worked it off.

Fr: Rest

Sat: Put my mid-upper thoracic back out by doing a stretch designed to improve back mobility. Lesson learned, don't do neck/back exercises when I first get out of bed. Wasn't the worst tweak but my neck went a bit sideways. Felt a bit depressed. Went to the wall anyway. Bouldering warm up. Got up to about V4-5ish. Then 3x 30 sec density hangs at bodyweight - slight assist with toes on the wall. Then 20 minutes continuous easy bouldering. Ran out of time for more sets and had to come home.

Sun: Bad night's sleep again. Felt exhausted and bit low. Back tweak did not help. Went for a walk by the river which was quite nice though very busy.

Looking back at the week it was good for training as stuck to the goals of finger strength and aerocap training at two opposite ends of spectrum. Hopefully this lays good foundation. Weight/fat is starting to creep down too which is good.          

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1687
  • Karma: +62/-1
#30 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 03:56:28 pm
M. Acro yoga and running physio

T. Warm up and then Max hang tests (7s). Doing on a large campus rung (27mm but very rounded). Got to +45kg (65% BW) before Partner noticed a weight dab. Was knackered and couldn’t be arsed repeating them. Best dab free one would have been 35kg or maybe 40kg (had to use longer sling when got to 40kg).

W. Board session. Mainly trying longer problems whilst I get more confidence that my finger is recovered. Good session.

T. Physio session - lots of running on treadmill and adjusting pace. Aiming for 170 cadence now which seems comfortable. Run is now in a much better place - no/minimal heel strikes and my crossovers seem to have corrected themselves at the same time.

F. Intervals run around the woods (20 mins) and a short board session before going for a beer. Not sure what the board session trained, but basically just did circuits where the other person choose each hold you went to. Made you do quite different moves and hang on for longer - was fun.

S. Board warm up and day out a Brimham. No ticks but good fun. First session out since injuring my finger in October

S. Loads of walking with the dog and then a quick 45 min board session.



Really pleased with how things are going. Finger is seeming fine. Back to some of my old board problems. Don’t feel Piss weak. Running is getting better.

Definitely don’t have the same snap I had 3 months ago though. Same problems feel way more sluggish, but still controlled. Possibly due to feeing absolutely knackered at the moment and only being back at it a few weeks…

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3633
  • Karma: +199/-3
#31 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 04:24:52 pm

Sat: Put my mid-upper thoracic back out by doing a stretch designed to improve back mobility. Lesson learned, don't do neck/back exercises when I first get out of bed.          


Isn't the lesson here "don't do stretching"?

Rocksteady

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Crank
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +45/-0
  • Hotter than the sun!
#32 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 06:11:55 pm

Sat: Put my mid-upper thoracic back out by doing a stretch designed to improve back mobility. Lesson learned, don't do neck/back exercises when I first get out of bed.          


Isn't the lesson here "don't do stretching"?

I think if I do the right sort of stretching at the right time it might be a good idea. But that's the second time I've put my back/neck out stretching first thing in the morning so I definitely think that's not right for me.

jamesturnbull97

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 119
  • Karma: +8/-0
#33 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 07:50:54 pm
Bit late to the party on this weeks but that’ll become clear why next week…

M. Home session
Max hangs. Warmed up with hangs progressing up from +20kg up to +40kg
Then 5x7 second hands @ +42.5kg
Short project session on the board on a couple of older problems, surprised at how hard they felt must have been going well at the time!
Weighted pull up pyramid with same numbers as last session.

T. Ilkley with Bradders, 36 and Footwork.
Did 3 more reps 3rd time, then did it from a direct sit at a similar grade. Spent the rest of the session figuring out Bernie the Bolt, pretty tough move the get across in to flakes at the top of 3MR managed to pull it out of the bag right at the end of the day. A good day with a solid crew.

W.

T. Eavestone with Buck
Went back to try Digital Dilemma after being close last week. Tweaked a little bit of beta to get to the end more efficiently and after a few goes from the start got it done. The end is definitely one of the few occasions that it is harder for the tall especially with my long legs, it’s a very small space to fit a lot of limb.
Back at home finished up the same pull up pyramid + 3x8reps of Press up and Archers Rows on Rings and some negative flys on TRX.

F. Planned to do a board session but got home from work a felt pretty tired and lacking in motivation

S. Mileage session at City Bloc. Just ran around for an hour or so on the yellows and some purples

S.

turnipturned

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 715
  • Karma: +107/-1
#34 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 10:18:00 pm
  Could not comprehend how Omega works. Any videos / beta?



Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
#35 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 18, 2022, 11:03:19 pm
Brilliant! I've definitely seen that video before too. I wasn't sure whether you were allowed into the corner from the description "finish up the left arete on its left side" but that makes much more sense now.

rginns

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 836
  • Karma: +40/-1
  • Holds innit
    • Strongholds
#36 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 19, 2022, 09:00:18 am
The main aim this wk was to get back into the board after a couple of weeks off over Christmas and a busy start to the year.

M - Board session, much better than Sunday's. managed to flash all the circuit 1 problems and some of the circuit 2. Climbed a new, hard (for me) problem on the board. Also managed to climb a couple of the circuit 3 problems. All in all a good session. Could feel the ability to try hard coming back.
T - Board session - mileage. Climbed all the circuit 1 and circuit 2 problems including the mirrored problems. Felt tired after 2 days on the board so probably should have had a rest day. Managed to warm up quicker though and had a better session than I thought I would
W - Fingerboard. 30 pull ups to warm up, then the following, all on the outside edge: 4 finger, 3 finger, back 3 half crimp, front 3  drag (2 sets)
T - rest
F - Intended to get out but reports of poor conditions from Tomtom put me off. Active rest (gardening) most of the day.
S - family day
S - search for dry rock - Ousels was almost completely wet and looks like staying that way for some time, Jumbles had some dry sections. Intended to clean CP but didn't realise how bad the ground conditions were, disappointing. traversed a bit on the long flat wall but couldn't muster much psyche, chatted with r-man a bit, then came home. Did scope out a few problems to add to the list though, so not all lost.
Had a very good board session, climbed all mirrored problems on circuit 1 and 2, worked on some problems I couldn't do before Christmas. Felt strong, concentrated on breath control, surprised at the difference it made, so I need to work on this.

All in all a good week, felt strong on the board but 3 days on is probably pushing it as I felt knackered towards the end of the week. Felt like the focus is coming back and using the Cragpad is really helping maintain the psyche and keep the plan on track.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#37 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 19, 2022, 09:22:01 pm
Feel free to write those grade opinions (and any other info) in my guide, please. Helpful info.

Unfortunately the pages are too glossy to write on

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#38 Re: Power Club 617 10th- 16th Jan 2022
January 20, 2022, 06:42:45 am
Feel free to write those grade opinions (and any other info) in my guide, please. Helpful info.

Unfortunately the pages are too glossy to write on

Oh well, a single side of A4 neatly folded and tucked into the required page will have to suffice then.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal