Quote from: Kingy on January 11, 2022, 09:45:53 amBTW, not all UK routes are desparate to onsight, Defcon 3 is just as onsightable as any 8a in Chulila IMHO. All the holds are well chalked and the line quite obvious.This is true, but they are very few and far between.Maybe we could start a list to help aspirant UK onsighters? Infinitive Gravity and then potentially some of the stuff at Shipwreck Cove are the only ones that immediately spring to mind. Though onsighting good cons might be the crux at both venues.Oh, and Brean is a reasonable crag for onsighting. With the odd exception (like Defcon) most stuff on Yorks & Peak limestone is nails to onsight.
BTW, not all UK routes are desparate to onsight, Defcon 3 is just as onsightable as any 8a in Chulila IMHO. All the holds are well chalked and the line quite obvious.
Quote from: remus on January 10, 2022, 08:04:27 pmThought I'd apply a bit of #SCIENCE to the proceedings so had a quick look at some of the lattice data. Looks like the average difference between RP and OS grade (to be precise, RP - OS) is 2.6 grades across the sample I looked at. Usual caveats apply, potentially biased sample etc.This hasn't been picked up by anyone but seems pretty odd to me - I'd consider 3 to be a good onsight climber, and less than three a bad redpointer, and if I had to guess at averages I'd have gone around 4. Even more so given my (entirely pie in the sky) assumptions about the lattice data set (grade focused climbers probably more into projecting so as to get bigger numbers to stick a green tick next to on insta...)2.6 seems really low, are people stretching the definition of onsight (so it means flash...)
Thought I'd apply a bit of #SCIENCE to the proceedings so had a quick look at some of the lattice data. Looks like the average difference between RP and OS grade (to be precise, RP - OS) is 2.6 grades across the sample I looked at. Usual caveats apply, potentially biased sample etc.
And what are we using to measure? The best onsight you've ever done on a one-off low gravity day with a strong up draft on a softly graded route (8a flash or 7c+ os for me), or the more realistic step down to the level where I've done a handful to consolidate (7c+ flash and 7c os for me)?
Jonas, am I right in thinking that you're onsight grade has stayed fairly similar for a while, but your redpoint grade has gone up a fair bit? That's just the impression I've got from what you've written on various threads. If so, what did you do? Live near good projects? Or more than that? It sounds like we have fairly similar os grades (7c+,occasional soft 8a},but I've been nowhere close to redpoint ING 8b+. But maybe that is just lack of trying ones that suit my style.Interested to hear what your magic bullet is.
Anyway, I then went an ruined it all by dragging my reluctant frame up the Crucifixion, thereby inadvertently establishing a redpoint / on sight grade desparity which I will take to my grave....Neil
Hopefully not too off topic, but does anyone have an opinion on whether the flash/repoint grade disparity should be different on boulders? I'm almost a number grade apart but do feel that I'm pretty abysmal at flashing stuff!
Hopefully not too off topic, but does anyone have an opinion on whether the flash/repoint grade disparity should be different on boulders?
I always admire how good at onsighting some of my mates are. a few that stand out; Nathan bloody Lee - hes onsighted some tricky things in the UK; Tequila Mockingbird, the Shining (probably a good UK 8a for onsighting?) plus quite a few other bits.Ben Silvestre - pretty sure he onsighted 7c/7c+ when his best RP was 8a.
Quote from: Duncan campbell on January 11, 2022, 12:22:25 pmI always admire how good at onsighting some of my mates are. a few that stand out; Nathan bloody Lee - hes onsighted some tricky things in the UK; Tequila Mockingbird, the Shining (probably a good UK 8a for onsighting?) plus quite a few other bits.Ben Silvestre - pretty sure he onsighted 7c/7c+ when his best RP was 8a.You can add Malcolm S to that, I watched him O/S 7c when I think he'd only recently done a first 8a.I'm of the average by the sound of it, 3-4 grades. I've not done a lot of redpointing, but I also have a few weaknesses when it comes to maxing out onsight.
year "2003" "2004" "2005" "2006" "2007" "2008" "2009" "2010" "2011" "2012" "2013" "2014" "2015" "2016" "2017"Median of top grade "7b" "7b" "7b" "7b" "7b" "7b" "7b" "7b" "7b" "7b" "7b+" "7b+" "7b+" "7b+" "7b+"
year "2003" "2004" "2005" "2006" "2007" "2008" "2009" "2010" "2011" "2012" "2013" "2014" "2015" "2016"Median of top grade "7B" "7B" "7B" "7A+" "7A+" "7B" "7B" "7B" "7B" "7B" "7B" "7B" "7B+" "7B+" [,15] year "2017"Median of top grade "7B+"
The increased gap between onsight and RP grades at big grades must be at least partially due to wanting big grades more: I don’t know anyone who has spent 120 days projecting a 7b.