[James Malloch]

Looking for the following guides. Don’t mind older versions as can always get a newer version on the trip if really needed.

- Alpen en Bloc 1+2

- Frankenjura Vol 1+2

- Taragona Climbs

- Something which covers Gorges du Tarn (Rockfax?)

- Greece Sport Climbing

- Chuilla

- Briancon Guide

- Arco Sport Climbing

- Any guide covering Swiss Sport (e.g. Gimmelwald)

[jwi]

Looking for the following guides. Don’t mind older versions as can always get a newer version on the trip if really needed.

...

- Taragona Climbs

Why?

(I sent a pdf to some people on here at some point. I cannot find the file right now, but I am sure that someone should have it)

- Something which covers Gorges du Tarn (Rockfax?)

CAF is selling this excellent topo for Tarn, with text in English (and French, Spanish and Italian)
https://www.approach-outdoor.com/topo-et-cartographie/topos-escalade-france/regions-centre-cevennes-et-occitanie/gorges-du-tarn.html
CAF has also put in more than €100,000 in bolts for the complete rebolting of GdT.

The previous CAF guidebook is also copied with some weird changes of some grades by the Languedoc-Roussillon rockfax. I have to warn you against using that guidebook for nearby Jonte as the routes are a bit randomly drawn on the photos and the descents are not correctly described.

...
- Chuilla

Climbmaps https://climbmaps.com/climbmaps.php has topos for all sectors in Chulilla if you want to browse before going. The site is run by Pedro Pons brother and Pedro is the author of the guidebooks.

[James Malloch]

Taragona climbs is for Margalef/Siurana. I think we’d not spend too much time in most places 1/2 weeks max (or might not even go) so something that’s more of a select guide could be more useful (and give other local areas) before going for the definitive guides.

Is the Gorges du Tarn a digital tool? Can’t work out from the description. Will get a cope ordered either way though, thanks.

Climb maps site is really useful, thanks!

[Ged]

Looking for the following guides. Don’t mind older versions as can always get a newer version on the trip if really needed.

...

- Taragona Climbs

Why?

(I sent a pdf to some people on here at some point. I cannot find the file right now, but I am sure that someone should have it)

- Something which covers Gorges du Tarn (Rockfax?)

CAF is selling this excellent topo for Tarn, with text in English (and French, Spanish and Italian)
https://www.approach-outdoor.com/topo-et-cartographie/topos-escalade-france/regions-centre-cevennes-et-occitanie/gorges-du-tarn.html
CAF has also put in more than €100,000 in bolts for the complete rebolting of GdT.

The previous CAF guidebook is also copied with some weird changes of some grades by the Languedoc-Roussillon rockfax. I have to warn you against using that guidebook for nearby Jonte as the routes are a bit randomly drawn on the photos and the descents are not correctly described.

...
- Chuilla

Climbmaps https://climbmaps.com/climbmaps.php has topos for all sectors in Chulilla if you want to browse before going. The site is run by Pedro Pons brother and Pedro is the author of the guidebooks.

I seem to remember quite a bit of the Boffi bit of rockfax being pretty whack as well.

[spidermonkey09]

Taragona climbs is for Margalef/Siurana. I think we’d not spend too much time in most places 1/2 weeks max (or might not even go) so something that’s more of a select guide could be more useful (and give other local areas) before going for the definitive guides.

Is the Gorges du Tarn a digital tool? Can’t work out from the description. Will get a cope ordered either way though, thanks.

Climb maps site is really useful, thanks!

If/when you end up in Siurana area, Arboli area, including El Falco, is excellent for 6s and 7s, and La Mussara is a really good day out, the walk in down the dry river bed is awesome. All in the Tarragona guide. I'm extremely jealous!

[duncan]

I’ve got a current Tarragona guide which isn’t in the best condition (cover and a few pages got wet) but is completely usable. Yours for a donation to the Dorset bolt fund.   

[James Malloch]

Taragona climbs is for Margalef/Siurana. I think we’d not spend too much time in most places 1/2 weeks max (or might not even go) so something that’s more of a select guide could be more useful (and give other local areas) before going for the definitive guides.

Is the Gorges du Tarn a digital tool? Can’t work out from the description. Will get a cope ordered either way though, thanks.

Climb maps site is really useful, thanks!

If/when you end up in Siurana area, Arboli area, including El Falco, is excellent for 6s and 7s, and La Mussara is a really good day out, the walk in down the dry river bed is awesome. All in the Tarragona guide. I'm extremely jealous!

Thanks for the recommendation! I just hope we don’t injure ourselves - I was a bit worried about getting bored, but I think if we keep things varied, don’t climb all the time and do some other things it’ll be perfect.

[jwi]

Yeah, there are long routes and bouldering as well!

[Helge]

I have the Alpen en bloc 1 (possibly not the latest edition). I wouldn't necessarily buy these new, they are ok for an overview, but at least Magic Wood and Murgtal are missing a fair amount of blocks. I also have a spare Chironico guide (previous edition, but only minimal differences) which I don't need anymore. Happy to part with these if you happen to pass Zürich or pay for shipping.

Regarding swiss sport, look for the Plaisir/Extrem Ost/West/Sud/Jura guides by Filidor (probably the Extrem guides given your grade range and focus on sport climbing). These are pretty good selection guides and cheaper than the Swiss Alpine Club regional guides (which also cover a lot of multipitch and alpine routes). Gimmelwald is in the Extrem West.

[SA Chris]

Yeah, there are long routes and bouldering as well!

Reminds me of the line from Blues Brothers - "we play both kinds of music here, Country & Western".

[James Malloch]

Yeah, there are long routes and bouldering as well!

 

[James Malloch]

I have the Alpen en bloc 1 (possibly not the latest edition). I wouldn't necessarily buy these new, they are ok for an overview, but at least Magic Wood and Murgtal are missing a fair amount of blocks. I also have a spare Chironico guide (previous edition, but only minimal differences) which I don't need anymore. Happy to part with these if you happen to pass Zürich or pay for shipping.

Regarding swiss sport, look for the Plaisir/Extrem Ost/West/Sud/Jura guides by Filidor (probably the Extrem guides given your grade range and focus on sport climbing). These are pretty good selection guides and cheaper than the Swiss Alpine Club regional guides (which also cover a lot of multipitch and alpine routes). Gimmelwald is in the Extrem West.

Thanks for the offer! I’ll likely be in touch soon, thank you.

Are there better select guides for alps bouldering, or are the definitives really the ones to go for for places such as magic wood?

That’s useful to know about the Extrem guides too - I think I’ll order the West one now and then maybe try to get copies of the others whilst out there if needed 

[Helge]

Thanks for the offer! I’ll likely be in touch soon, thank you.

Are there better select guides for alps bouldering, or are the definitives really the ones to go for for places such as magic wood?

That’s useful to know about the Extrem guides too - I think I’ll order the West one now and then maybe try to get copies of the others whilst out there if needed

I haven't been to all of the places in the book and my edition is from 2014 (latest is 2017). Magic Wood is missing a lot of blocs and has seen more development. For me, the dedicated guide is definitely worth it but we go there regularly. Murgtal is totally incomplete (but maybe not a place you'd want to visit). Sustenpass/Furka/Gottardo aren't complete either I think.

You can get by with the selection guide in Magic Wood if you don't mind just having a go at problems that look good and aren't in the book. Depending on the time of the year, there's also other people around who will have guidebooks most of the time, and you can always buy one from the guy who runs the campsite and restaurant. I haven't been to any of the Austrian and Bavarian areas in the book but I don't think they're all that great (except Silvretta maybe).

Another selection guide is Swiss Bloc (same publisher as the Magic Wood topo). They cover the mountain passes well and I think large parts of Magic Wood so this may be another option depending on where you're planning to go. The areas in Ticino are quite large, and are only covered in dedicated guides.

PM me if you want a picture of the contents of the Extrem guides or any other guide I mentioned.