[Fultonius]

John, given you climb to a pretty high level I would assume I'm telling you something you already know, but rest almost ways makes these things worse in the long term. What is the injury and how have you had it?

I know you are right. Tendons never respond to doing nothing but finding the right intensity in the rehab is the tricky part. I just wanted to rest a few days to see how it felt after it settled down after the rehab. I had golfers elbow for the last month or two but also something on the other side of the elbow. This was just a mild annoyance but then developed into something much more acute just before Xmas. It could be tennis elbow or something up with the annular ligament. I am not sure. I did have something similar a couple of years back and eventually it just went away.

Yeah, very tricky. I had bad tennis a few years back, went on for 3 months of the usual cycle of ignoring it, trying to rest it, vaguely trying some exercises. Then got on to heavy eccentric wrist curls (using other hand to raise) and this got it cured in 3 weeks. Needed to be fairly painful during the exercise to have any benefit.

The next year I got the same in my left. Great I thought, just do the same....except this time I caught it early, so the heavy weights were way too aggravating. In the end I just had to avoid things that made it worse, and do some regular lighter static isometric holds (i.e. basically just not doing an eccentric/concentric reverse wrist curl, just holding) and I've got a really good massage I should rally film and show you. It involves firmly digging your fingers of the other hand into the section about 1cm out from the lateral epicondyle to provoke some pain, then just wiggling your fingers of the bad arm and flexing the wrist etc. This seems to really help with remodelling and promoting repair (n=1 and I invented it, so....you know....it's probably BS)

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - Lattice edge one arm up to BW and +4 kg. Back3 two arms up to +34 kg. 30" EMOM high pull and snatch 1+1 40 kg x13.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing, not bad at all. EMOM loaded carries 30" 2 x high pulls x15 + 2 x clean x15 50 kg.
Thu - board climbing, tired. 30" TBDL finisher 80 kg. 30" clean and press finisher 40 kg.
Fri - 40' EMOM weights: pull ups x5 + dumbbell thruster x5.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - loaded carries 16'.

[Bradders]

Any thoughts?

Knowing nothing of your climbing history, if you've never done any structured training before it has to be built up gradually!

That sounds like a pretty big week for someone who hasn't really trained before, so you could be the typical "New Year, new me" thing; get psyched, set loads of goals, hammer it in training, get injured....don't try to do too much too soon!

[jamesturnbull97]

M. Wharcliffe. Thanks for the info Bonjoy
Warmed up on a few random easys which were nice before moving on to Grunne Holle and Down in a Hole. Both lovely, GH was especially good.
Headed down to Kobe, managed to do the individual moves but after about 20mins the heavens open which wasn't forecast so that was game over. Very keen to return for it though.
Back home did a quick Max hangs session. 6 x 7second hangs on the bottom edges of the BM100 @ +40kg
Pull up Pyramid from 10-1-10 @ +7.5kg, +12.5kg, +20kg, +26.25kg, +32.5kg

T.

W. Eavestone night session
Warmed up on Get a Grip, then moved on to Sky Diamond. Spent ages trying to figure out the ending which seemed pretty awkward to those of long leg. Never managed to do the last hard move but just had a see what happens go from the start a did it with relative ease.
Figured out the end of Digital Disfunction which is even more bunched for the tall, had a few goes from the start falling off flipping the big pocket but then I ran out of power and so did the lights.

T. Boss was ill so got the day off which luckily conisided with surf being up on the east coast. Was a bit windy but Runswick was firing and caught some of the best and longest waves I had in a while. Dug out board I'd not ridden in ages too which went great!

F. Board session
Just fancied climbing so not a huge amount of structure.
Warmed up on a usual circuit of problems and messed around making up random moves.
Did the undercut move on my Unjustified simulator a few time, then managed it a couple of times from standing matched on the big undercuts. Had one particulary closed go from the sit too.
Tried a couple of old problems from the spring and was surpised at how hard they felt, must hae been going well on them in the past. Pieced the individual moves together on on and the other in 2 halves.
Pull up Pyramid to finish @ +8.75kg, +13.75kg, +21.25kg, +27.5kg, +33.75kg

S. City Bloc after work.
Half session of one armed repeaters on bottom edges of BM1000. 3 sets of Half crimp @ -13.75kg and 3 of Open handed @ -11.75kg
Tried a few of the harder blocs of the current set. Did on of the purples out of the back roof and close to the other green next to it. Manged one green on the old comp wall and close on another two.
Indoor grades never seem to make any sense to me as I end up projetcting stuff that acording to the circuits shouldn't be harder than 7b yet can sometimes take multiple session yet that would be a grade I'd just on as part of a warm up on rock?!?
Rings
3x8 of Flys, Archer Rows and Press Ups.

S.

[jamesturnbull97]

Finish with 2-rep max pull ups testing, just about managed +25kg; lots of gains to be made here!

Glad I'm not the only one who can hang of small hold with more weight than can do a pull up with.

[Bradders]

Finish with 2-rep max pull ups testing, just about managed +25kg; lots of gains to be made here!

Glad I'm not the only one who can hang of small hold with more weight than can do a pull up with.

Long levers init.

[teestub]

Finish with 2-rep max pull ups testing, just about managed +25kg; lots of gains to be made here!

Glad I'm not the only one who can hang of small hold with more weight than can do a pull up with.

I totally misunderstood your entry from last week and thought you were doing one rep with your bodyweight added again because you wrote 100%!!

[Fultonius]

Any thoughts?

Knowing nothing of your climbing history, if you've never done any structured training before it has to be built up gradually!

That sounds like a pretty big week for someone who hasn't really trained before, so you could be the typical "New Year, new me" thing; get psyched, set loads of goals, hammer it in training, get injured....don't try to do too much too soon!

I've had long periods before of doing 3-4 days a week of some form of intensive climbing, but I guess since I'm actually accessing higher levels of stimulation via the limit boulder sessions, I guess I will be putting more stress than I'm used to. I was always a sufferer of the dreaded "Font Elbow" when doing a lot of compression, and during my lattice assessment he did mention I don't use my lats/back enough when doing basic pulls, which ties really well in with Video from Hooper.

My question, how do I teach my lats to do the work instead of my arms?

#learning point 1: don't do AnCap too much initially, and certainly not the day before winter climbing!

[James Malloch]

Back on the bandwagon for me with 3 months until our trip.

Doing running physio most days but starting to add climbing back in now that life is a bit less chaotic. It’s also 3 months since I injured my A2 at Kilnsey and I’ve barely climbed since then bar the odd easy board session.

M - F. physio most days + lots of walking with the dog.

S. 2 hours on my friends board. Nice to climb with a small crew of people. Took it fairly easy with some bits of try hard. Then 2 hours on my own board in the evening. I stuck to longer circuit style problems with an aim of not re-injuring myself whilst I get recalibrated, and also to work on some of my session fitness again / just get used to climbing.

S. Chilled day of dog walking, going for pizza and cleaning. Booked a session with my Physio (biscuit / andy) to get some training planned out. I’d like to try and add something structured to my board sessions - bit of work on some hangs, back 3 etc. Basically trying to strengthen up a bit to try and stop injuries.

[jamesturnbull97]

Finish with 2-rep max pull ups testing, just about managed +25kg; lots of gains to be made here!

Glad I'm not the only one who can hang of small hold with more weight than can do a pull up with.

I totally misunderstood your entry from last week and thought you were doing one rep with your bodyweight added again because you wrote 100%!!

Ah yes, my bad. 100% just meaning all of the weight i.e One rep max and the other percentages just been of that weight if that makes sense so can definitely see how that could be misinterpreted it's just how I've been keeping track in my own notes.
Totals would be
Max hang @ 160% (72 + 42kg)
One Rep Max pull at @ 150% (72 + 35kg)

[teestub]

Ah yes, my bad. 100% just meaning all of the weight i.e One rep max and the other percentages just been of that weight if that makes sense so can definitely see how that could be misinterpreted it's just how I've been keeping track in my own notes.
Totals would be
Max hang @ 160% (72 + 42kg)
One Rep Max pull at @ 150% (72 + 35kg)

Totally makes sense although I am slightly disappointed you’re not a secret long arm pull up monster!

[User deactivated.]

My question, how do I teach my lats to do the work instead of my arms?

The classic cues for engaging the lats and other back muscles when doing pullups are:

1. Concentrate on leading/pulling with your elbows and getting them behind you, rather than pulling with the hands.

2. keep your chest up and out, with a slight arch in your back if needed. Aim to touch your chest to the bar.

Explosive pullups where you aim to get your bellybutton to the bar will also teach you to use lats with power as you can't really do that with just arms. I also think rows are great for back strength.

[Fultonius]

Nice one Liam, I'll give those a go 

[jamesturnbull97]

Ah yes, my bad. 100% just meaning all of the weight i.e One rep max and the other percentages just been of that weight if that makes sense so can definitely see how that could be misinterpreted it's just how I've been keeping track in my own notes.
Totals would be
Max hang @ 160% (72 + 42kg)
One Rep Max pull at @ 150% (72 + 35kg)

Totally makes sense although I am slightly disappointed you’re not a secret long arm pull up monster!

Haha, sadly not. My main weakness is definitely still being weak but I'm slowly trying to make a change to that.