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Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022 (Read 5184 times)

Aussiegav

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Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 09, 2022, 03:05:35 pm
First full week into 2022. Everyone seems to be scratching around trying to source Covid testing kits, dodging Covid, catching Covid. Some like us, continue focusing on training. 🤣🤣🤣

Hope everyone had a good week.

Monday
Rest day

Tuesday
Awesome Walls after work. Followed the ‘Up Your Level’ programme again.
Did 12 routes in a pyramid from 5a to 6b+ and back to 5b.
Managed another 6b+ Onsight and did all but 1 route either Onsight or repeated first go. The route I didn’t do was a new one graded 6a+ but I thought it was at least 6b+.
Good session but feeling a bit tired so I’ll rest until the weekend.

Wednesday:
45min Peloton ride

Thursday.
Rest day.

Friday:
Density hangs. 4x 30s hangs.

Saturday:

It was too freezing & icy too get out of bed for the predawn session. So I went down to the School in the evening for a mileage & conditioning session.

Warmed up with 4 jumping pull ups & general mobility movement followed by a few  very easy Splat Board traverses keeping feet on the floor.
Recruiting fingers & arms with Feet on Campus Pulls (2-5 match) x6. Feet on Campus (2-4-6 match).

Boulder Mileage pyramid
16 Problems ranging from 6a to 6c. Using all the boards.

Conditioning
Lock offs 90 & 120 degree
Thrusters 4×5.
Bar only 5reps✅ Bar + 10kg✅✅✅
Bench press 4×5 47kg ✅✅✅✅


Sunday

Did an FTP test on the Peloton. Legs felt boxed after. Been having a nap today, so I thought let’s start Power Club. 
« Last Edit: January 09, 2022, 03:10:57 pm by oldfella »

shark

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#1 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 09, 2022, 06:04:58 pm
Thanks (not so) oldfella


M Drive back from Devon.

T  AM Home FB warm up. Fingers feel stronger each time. PM Cold but too sunny for Blind Date so straight to Tor. 1 degree. Just me. Had dried up considerably. Did THFML 3x but not without difficulty. Mental jog that need to get slicker on this. More accurate on throw move this time and discovered I can get a little recovery flick before taking the sharp incut. Best links were doing throw to tickling pinch on cross through 2x.

W

T Max hangs session on Ergo edge. Gunned for 10 secs HC at +32.5kg but could only manage 6secs so still hovering around PB level set last winter even though my fingers feel stronger on rock.

F Travel to Pamplona - about 13 hours door to door. No hiccups

S Extrurias. Nice weather. Fantastic crag. Started at Ziriza sector. Duncan led a 5 up a groove which wasn’t trivial (6a+?). I fell off the top of a very good 6b+ (6c?) due to having blinkers on but then enjoyed redpointing it. Then managed to keep the pump at bay on a slightly less good  6c+ (7a?) sufficiently to onsight it. Wandered  right and blown away by the look of the next sector. The groove of Megapixels 7a+ was too compelling not to try even though I felt tired. Tried hard and got part way through the crux section. Wasted after that and it was hard work dogging to the top. Felt more like 7b+.

S. Rain

Rain forecast for tomorrow but then a long dry spell for at least the following 12 days. Feel very lucky to be out here and was fully expecting a spanner in the works. With over a 1000 routes Etxauri should keep us busy but plan to venture to Riglos at some point to do Fiesta del Biceps.

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#2 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 09, 2022, 07:29:21 pm
Rejoining the fray for a bit.

Jan Goals
- do 90% of planned sessions
- lose 2kg

Weight: 77.3kg

Monday
2 arm Max Hangs on Lattice edge. 4x10s +18kg
Limit bouldering, mostly failure
Boulders on the minute for 30 minutes.
20 mins stretching

Tuesday
20 mins stretching

Wednesday
Limit boulders, mostly failure but slightly less so than Monday
Lock offs
Rings. Y's, T's, Rows, Rollouts
20 mins stretching

Thursday
20 mins stretching

Friday
1 arm max hangs on Lattice edge. 4x10s -14kg

Saturday
Nothing

Sunday
Kilterboard for the first time.
Flashes up to V5 to warm up. Tried 3 7Bs and did the moves on all of them, but didn't manage to piece any of them together. Flashed 2x 7A's and 1 7A+.
Did 5 or so V4-5 normal boulders to warm down.
20 mins stretching

First proper training for a good while, hoping I can keep some motivation up for a bit.

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#3 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 09, 2022, 08:40:30 pm
Back into training mode for the first a long time (a little dabbling on the board at the end of 2021 but looking forward to some structure after focusing on rock for a long time).

Had a my first full week off in 3 years (I think) from the 1st, not really sure on annual goals yet, but main short term goals are to get some S&C work in and not piss off my persistent middle PIP joint issues in my left hand which means avoiding a few problems on rock I was close on last year for a bit, the woodie seems not to affect it as of yet.

M rest
T rest
W rest
T rest/packing
F rest/moved to Liverpool.
S depot Manchester. Tested on BM 2k bottom middle edge, 5s bodyweight on right side with more left, 3s bodyweight left side with nothing left!(left hand PB) Onto the boards, did 2x7As I've done before on each of the 30,40and 50 throughout the session, spent about 20 mins trying to repeat a 7A+, got close on a couple of 7bs in a few goes each, will try them more next time, not so close on a 7B+ (a move eludes me 3 sessions in) and tried to do something new which would be around 7A+ on that board and managed it in overlapping halves (board grades continue to make zero sense to me)
S FB and Bench session 4F HC BM1k bottom edges
6xbw 10
+7.5kg 10s
+15kg 10s
+20kg 10s
1. +25kg 10s
2. +27.5kg 10s
3. +30kg 9s
4. +32.5kg 7s
5. +35 7s
6 +37.5 7s
7. +40kg 7s
8.+42.5kg 7s (new PB vs November 2019)

Mid 2
4x20 pickup HC 7s
4F fill crimp 4x7s

Bench 3x5 60kg

FB makes no sense, I tested my fingers after 2 days off before the new year and max was 32.5kg added, but second day on I was able to go 10kg higher, which seems to have been the case in the past too when testing it.
« Last Edit: January 09, 2022, 08:52:06 pm by yetix »

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#4 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 09, 2022, 08:58:31 pm
M - Lobwell with Liam. Been meaning to go check out Source of Secrets for years. Amazing block and lucked out with great conditions, albeit a couple of holds needed regular chalking. Took quite a while to work out all the moves but got there eventually and had a few good goes from the start getting into the 2nd half. Tweaked my hamstring towards the end on a heel hook but it's not bad. Would have liked to have fully linked the 2nd half as well but only figured out one of those moves right at the end of the session. Feels well lined up anyway.

Tu - rest

W - AM fingerboard, 3x 10s 26mm +40kg, 2 min rests, backed off a bit to keep 5 seconds in reserve as maybe hadn't warmed up quite enough. On to 20mm pick ups, 6x half crimp middle 2 and 6x half crimp front 2. Upped weights yet again. Finished the m2 set at 35kg, and did all 6 f2 at 30kg. Pleased with these as I was stuck around the 20kg mark for ages.
At lunchtime did a board doubles session. Same 6 problems as recent weeks. Did well, dropped 2nd rep on 3 of them powering out. Funny on the last 2 where the 1st rep felt pretty steady but then couldn't touch it 2nd time round.

Th - rest

F - Roche Abbey. Felt like quite a high commitment day given the sleet / rain etc. but at the crag it was clear and dry although very cold. Couple of 6s, did Faith RH in a couple of goes. Faith LH took quite a while to work out and I was finding it tricky, mainly just deciding which of the plethora of holds to use, but when I then did it it felt very easy. After a short rest flashed Faithless LH. Finished flashing a link of Habitus sit into Faith LH. Lovely day, been a while since I last did 4 new to me 7s in a day. Exactly the type of positive climbing I feel psyched for atm too.

Sa - assessment session. Half crimp mono testing; fingers pretty uniform across front 3 and across both hands although a couple lagging very slightly, and pinkies actually doing quite well managing 8kg (I think). One arm hang testing; on 22mm edge managed 5s -10kg on both arms. 7s comfortably -12kg. 3s -8kg on left but only 1s on right. Pretty pleased with these scores. At current bodyweight (78kg) means fingers are stronger than they've ever been in absolute terms (in fact 2 years ago the same absolute strength would have equalled a bodyweight hang... interesting). Then a board session, Sheffield cellar 50' board so very intense, great fun. Felt like I was climbing quite well. Good exposure of weaknesses particularly on flat / non-positive edges in open shoulder positions. Finish with 2-rep max pull ups testing, just about managed +25kg; lots of gains to be made here!

Su - pretty tired. Nice walk, good length yoga session, and some conditioning; front and side raises, external rotations and wrist curls.

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#5 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 09, 2022, 08:59:31 pm
second day on I was able to go 10kg higher, which seems to have been the case in the past too when testing it.

This is just recruitment I would think.

Welcome back!

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#6 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 09, 2022, 09:31:47 pm
M - Source of Secrets. Struggled with a few moves that Bradders was making light work of and became a little discouraged, but a few power spots later and being advised my heel was shit, I eventually managed to figure out all the moves. Had a couple goes from the bottom but was done by this point. Left psyched for it.

T -

W - still pretty wasted from SOS, moderate intensity board session and some hangs, rows and dips.

T -

F - higher intensity board session. Found I've lost a bit of strength on open hand compression not being able to repeat a problem in this style that I'd previously given 7A+. Good otherwise. Finished with one armers, handstand presses, nordic curls.

S -

S - planned to try and do hannibal at Toms Cave, but on arrival it was wet. Ended up driving back to Source of Secrets and after refreshing the moves and refining the beta, to my amazement I did it 2nd go from the bottom! One of the best boulders I've done on any rock type. Had 20 mins on Kenzoku afterwards but didn't make much of an impression on it. Keen to return and give it another go fresh (and carry some pads in for Bradders  :whistle: )



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#7 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 09, 2022, 09:35:33 pm
Good to have some folk back in here

M - TCA, hardish bouldering, 2.5 hrs, but fair bit of chatting in that time. 2 x 1:10 min plank.
T - TCA, attempted aeropow on circuits, but the steeper board was being reset and the hardest things on the 15° board weren't hard enough - got fairly pumped, but nowhere near failing (2 on, 1 off, 2 on, 10 off, repeat x 5.
2 x 1:10 plank.
W - run, 5k, flat, pavement, 23 min. 2 x 1:10 plank.
T - work, 12 hrs. Eve max hangs, warm up increasing weights then 3 x 10s @ 90 (+17), then 1 more at each of 89, 88, and 87, reducing as was failing in last second each time. Pitiful, though I suppose doing them after a long shift doesn't help. 2 x 1:10 plank.
F - work, 12 hrs. Eve aeropow on lattice edge @ 50kg, 7:3 x 12 x 6 sets. 2 x 1:10 plank.
S - 2 x 1:20 plank. Run, 7.5km, first half flat and pavement, send half hilly and muddy, 42 min
S - Redpoint with daughter. Mostly belaying and easy bouldering, but did a few auto belays up to 7b+ too. 2 x 1:20 plank

72kg. Seem to be plateauing just under 72, just about inside the window, but would like another kg so going to carry on paying attention to diet.

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#8 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 08:37:50 am
Thanks oldfella. Managed to dodge the lurgy which has been swirling around and able to get away.

M - F.  Shoulder conditioning: Side-planks, handstands, press-ups, IYTs. Walked 8-14km each day. (F travelled to Pamplona)
S - Etxauri, with Simon. First three routes of shark’s Power Club above. Onsighted the 5+; dogged the 6b+; didn’t finish the 6c+, got to the last hard move but completely out of gas. Great cliff, friendly locals, good weather, impressive Griffon vultures. Ambience and climbing style at the sector reminded me a little of Sirunella.
S - Tired but not sore. Pissed down with rain all day. Shoulder conditioning.

Felt a little awkward in rock and lacking in stamina, not surprising after nearly 3 months of no climbing except for one trip to Ratho. Elbow feels OK and the climbing will come back quickly. Iffy weather today but thereafter the forecast looks very good. Could be a good alternative to the usual mid-winter suspects if this turns out to be true.

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#9 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 11:19:20 am
Goal: New (to me) outdoor Font 7a

Not loads to report for me, getting back into the swing of things after Xmas break really.

Thurs: LSD trip after work. Either I've had a hell of a post-COVID recovery / Xmas rest period, or the new set are right up my street, or something else, but I had a mega-session. Flashed a V6, 3 or 4 V5s, and nearly picked off two other V6s.

Only downside was I somehow tweaked by back, which was a bit sore Thurs night, but then got worse and worse. Ended up popping codeine all weekend and it's still not back to normal.

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#10 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 11:38:14 am
TTT: How is LSD? I'm looking to get one lower intensity session a week in (in comparison to a board) and noticed that LSD is a fair bit cheaper than the others on a monthly contract. I went once last year, so I've seen the facilities, but I'm more interested in how busy it gets and how often they reset?

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#11 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 11:55:19 am
They reset by sector once a week (on a Tues if memory serves) - they seem to strip it during the day so sometimes you can turn up and if the new set isn't up that area's out of commission.

It's got busier / more popular over the last c.6 months (obviously a good thing for the longevity of the business!), but it never feels as mad as (say) Mile End used to, or Depot Pudsey did last time I was there on an evening.

I tend to make it down there on a Tues or Thurs evening, PM me if you're headed down!


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#12 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 12:31:59 pm
Thurs: LSD trip after work.

no idea how you can climb after that, with all the purples and greens turning into wild kaleidoscopes and flare trails. out there maaaaan!

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#13 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 12:39:44 pm
Getting involved in this for 2022 to motivate me to be more consistent.

End-of-year goals:
Onsight/flash 5 F7as
Boulder Fb7A+

January goals:
Build foundations and training capacity
Weight: 72.4kg, 15.8% bodyfat. AIM: 71kg 12% bodyfat
Knackered all week as son #2 is waking up every 2 hours at the moment.

Mon: Rest

Tue: Repeaters 20mm 7:3*6 at bodyweight. Wouldn't have been able to do this last year so was pleased with that. One arm finger strength testing using Tindeq. 47kg RH, 43.9kg LH 20mm edge (64.9/60.6% bodyweight). 16kg RH, 15.1kg thin pinch block. 15.9kg RH, 15.4kg LH fat block. Interesting how weak the pinches were, this looks a potential area for good improvement.

Wed: Mobility and stretching.

Thur: Routes session at Westway. Meant to do easy volume but got sucked into trying a few harder things and getting pumped. 10 routes in double laps, 6a-6c.

Fri: Rest.

Sat: Had a great lunch courtesy of brother-in-law. Bouldering at Arch Acton. Density hangs, 20mm edge 2* 30sec at bodyweight less a bit of assistance from a toe. Beastmaker deep pockets 30sec at bodyweight, this actually still felt hard. Then aero bouldering, 3*10 min continuous bouldering <V3.

Sun: Left inside elbow a bit sore, perhaps ramped up volume too quickly.

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#14 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 12:46:25 pm
Power Club:

Sacrificed all sessions this week for the sake of woody erection, hopefully up and running by this weekend.
Made it out for a 2.5 hr family walk on Sunday morning.

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#15 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 12:51:59 pm
Thurs: LSD trip after work.

no idea how you can climb after that, with all the purples and greens turning into wild kaleidoscopes and flare trails. out there maaaaan!

Shhhhh, don't give away my secrets!

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#16 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 01:58:59 pm
New Year club - happy 2022 y'all

M: Routes @ AW - Still feeling rough from the weekend, onsighting up to F6b+ then decided to actually try summat hard... New F7b+ was just the ticket, did all the moves and some pretty big links - good first go, felt better!
T: Bouldering with boy @ AW - Good fun sesh... Flashed another V6 - V8+ problem... Soft set!
W: Bike to and from shoulder surgeon appointment - tell him I'm not electing for surgery at present, he was pretty understanding, signed me off with the caveat that I can have the surgery at any point by just contacting my GP... Felt good to make a decision (still not sure it's the right one but it's what I'm going with for now)...
T: AW with GF and daughter - The crowds have descended! What is usually a pretty calm and easygoing environment full of folk I either know or at least recognise is over-run with new tracksuit clad strangers biffing their way up every route in the place!! Did some more bouldering up to V6ish...
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Supposed to be flying to Alicante but GF tests positive for Covid so that ain't happening... Go for a 20 odd mile bike ride in the wind, rain and hail... Didn't really make me feel any better! Arse!

Meh... Shitty, shitty, shit, shit.... Still testing negative so gonna hit the wall until I do and the forecast looks good later in the week so might go clip some bolts in a grotty quarry if I can stave off the Rona...

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#17 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 02:22:56 pm
Still no climbing this week as my elbow it still knackered. It was responding to the rehab but after a few days complete rest it seems to not have improved much. One of those annoying tendon things that I will never work out how to get rid of it until one day it will just disappear within a two week period...hopefully.

M - Trail run 12.5km 550m. Elbow rehab.

T - Trail run 12.5km 550m. Elbow rehab.

W - Trail run 12.5km 550m. Elbow rehab.

T - AM: Ski tour 9.32km 931m. PM: Trail run 12.5km 550m. Elbow rehab.

F - Trail run 15.32km 793m.

S - Trail run 15.83km 660m.

S - X-country skiing 16.74km 153m.

My running training is based on being the the Dragon's Back race in September, although I won't know for sure until the end of this month when I find out if I have a place in the UTMB via the lottery or not. As the Dragon's Back involves 6 consecutive days of running I will train my ability to cope with that and increase the distance by 10% each week in 2 x 3 week blocks separated by an easier week. If I don't end up entering the Dragon's Back it will count as a good volume base to start the year.

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#18 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 02:28:57 pm
John, given you climb to a pretty high level I would assume I'm telling you something you already know, but rest almost ways makes these things worse in the long term. What is the injury and how have you had it?

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#19 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 02:33:01 pm
Going to try hard to stick with this for as long as I can manage.

Aims: get lighter and stronger and fitter (have plenty of specific aims / ticks but keeping them to myself for now!)

M: 10km muddy walk. Mini stretch. Wall. Great board session despite tweaked index finger DIP - unfinished hard problems felt not too bad despite being quite heavy. Then spent a bit of time figuring out the beginning of a longer board circuit which might be quite good for some Anstey's preparation. More shoulder stretching.
T: Back to the wall with daughter. Felt a bit zapped. Did some easy volume boulders, plus some easy circuit board. Good stretching session in the evening.
W: 7km walk
T: 10km woods run. Wall. Did ok board session but felt a bit heavy / worn out. Then some easy circuit board.
F: 10km woods run. Was going to do some strength stuff but too tired. Good stretching session though.
S: Wall. Still quite tired, initially anyway. Maybe 40 mins of lacklustre board. Was going to abandon things, but decided to pick two hard (7B and 7C) problems to work on downstairs - both quite outsidesque (rather than prancing on giant bulbous things). Managed some good links and enjoyed this a lot.
S: Just an hour of stretching in the evening.

Have been avoiding hanging while finger feels tweaky, but want to resume asap. Also want to get back to doing a strength session at least once a week (weighted pulls, assisted one arm, locks, etc) plus press day as well, but conscious that I've felt like I've probably been doing a bit too much as it is. Going to try to build up the volume a bit at a time, and also add in some aerocap and PE where I can. Will worry more about specific route fitness when I'm a bit skinnier.

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#20 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 02:46:44 pm
John, given you climb to a pretty high level I would assume I'm telling you something you already know, but rest almost ways makes these things worse in the long term. What is the injury and how have you had it?

I know you are right. Tendons never respond to doing nothing but finding the right intensity in the rehab is the tricky part. I just wanted to rest a few days to see how it felt after it settled down after the rehab. I had golfers elbow for the last month or two but also something on the other side of the elbow. This was just a mild annoyance but then developed into something much more acute just before Xmas. It could be tennis elbow or something up with the annular ligament. I am not sure. I did have something similar a couple of years back and eventually it just went away.   

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#21 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 02:52:28 pm
M: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.  G1, Legs. Squats 170lb X5 *5sets. GHD machine X8 *3sets. Split squats 50lb X5 *5sets. Inverted row X8 *3sets. Trap bar deadlift 165lb X5 *3sets

T: Walk around park with dog. Lower body stretching. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +25lb! OA R MH 25mm -35lb. Tension board 10 deg 30s on, 2mins off *3sets, Kilter board 15 deg *3sets. Dumbbell Row 55lb X8 *3sets. Reverse Flys 12.5lb X8 *3sets. Kettlebell balance + shoulder press 13lb X5 *3sets. Bicep Curls 40lb X8 *3sets

W: Walk around park with Sophie. Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.  Heel-elevated squats 145lb X5 *5sets. Dumbbell RDLs 55lb (2) X5 *3sets. Bosu ball single-leg balance 30s *3sets. Inverted row X8 *3sets. Trap bar deadlift 185lb X5 *3sets.

F: Lower Body Stretching

S: G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +40lb HC. Tried Open hand 20mm and couldn't even do 20mm -35lb pain-free, a difference of 75lb! Kilter board climbing at 15 degrees *3sets, 20 degrees *5sets. Dumbbell Row 60lb X8 *3sets. Reverse Flys 12.5lb X8 *3sets. Kettlebell balance + shoulder press 13lb X5 *3sets. Bicep Curls 40lb X8 *3sets

S: Lower Body Stretching. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 15lb OH *3. Walk around park with dog

Very bizarre find on Saturday of the hang discrepancy between HC and OH being 75lb (due to pain). Any advice (aside from progressive loading) of exercises to resolve?

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#22 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 03:01:26 pm
Where's the pain coops?

Huffy has a vid on open hand pain which may be useful for self diagnosis https://www.instagram.com/p/CYKFkL_oBzQ/?utm_medium=copy_link


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#23 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 03:36:14 pm
John, given you climb to a pretty high level I would assume I'm telling you something you already know, but rest almost ways makes these things worse in the long term. What is the injury and how have you had it?

I know you are right. Tendons never respond to doing nothing but finding the right intensity in the rehab is the tricky part. I just wanted to rest a few days to see how it felt after it settled down after the rehab. I had golfers elbow for the last month or two but also something on the other side of the elbow. This was just a mild annoyance but then developed into something much more acute just before Xmas. It could be tennis elbow or something up with the annular ligament. I am not sure. I did have something similar a couple of years back and eventually it just went away.   
Weight... 80KG  :popcorn:

Mon: Session at Ratho. I tend to just onsight up to my O/S level at Ratho (fun, don't go that frequently so there's always something to go at) but this year I'm targeting AnCap so went for some split RP type affairs. Basically just warmed up and then got some two F7c+s, climbing as far as I could in a go (12-15 moves) then resting on the route, going again for another section etc. I suspect I might need to do a few "working" session to get them a bit dialled in, but it certainly got me powered out by the end of the session. Also seems good tactically to just spend more time linking harder route sections.
Tue:Yoga - core strength session 20m mins. Deffo got weak deep cbs - hip flexors take over / dominate)
Wed: Yoga: core strength 20 mins
Thursday: Limit Boulders @ TCA propstore. Sort recruitment warm up (some hangs, pickups, explosive pulls on campus edges etc., core wake up). Nearly flashed a black but last move had me stumped. Got 2 other blacks done (6C+/7A) and made progress on the crux of a 7B that's both core intensive, powerful and technical so chuffed with that.
Friday: Core Yoga 30 mins, starting to notice improvements.
Sat: Tried to do AnCap at TCA on the routes, as Ratho's booking system refused to play ball. Routes too cruxy and vertical. Left elbow (classic font elbow / brachialis ache) started to grumble a bit.
Hooper's Beta on the Brachialis
Sacked that off (too cold, routes no use) and did a 6 on the minute flash grade set. Elbow not happy so sacked it for conditioning: dips 10 x 3, bench 1 x 10 x 40, 2 x 2 x 60 (pb  :weakbench: , 1 x 8 x 50,. Face Pulls @ 40kg, reverse wrist curls (ecc only @ 12.5 kg x 5 x 3).
Sun: Lurcher's Crag winter climb - Berserker. Meant to be VI,8, but Felt overall harder and technically easier. Forearms and biceps absolutely exploding on the steeper bits, maybe the AnCap is working?!?!  To much lactate not enough aero!  Chalk that one up as an AeroPow session.  ;)    Probably didn't help the brachialis, but it actually didn't feel an worse after (forst few metres were pretty bad)

So, there we have it - the first foray into focused and structured training, underpinned by improved diet, better warm ups and BOOM straight into niggly elbows. FFS  :wall:  I remember that one of the main reasons I gave up training was that I ended up missing so much climbing through time out/rebah, that it was better to just be mediocre and able to actually climb.  I suspect this week will be careful elbow maintenance and working out how the fuck to get my lats/back to do more of the work and give the Brachialis a rest. Any thoughts? 
« Last Edit: January 10, 2022, 03:44:40 pm by Fultonius »

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#24 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 03:42:01 pm
Where's the pain coops?

Huffy has a vid on open hand pain which may be useful for self diagnosis https://www.instagram.com/p/CYKFkL_oBzQ/?utm_medium=copy_link
Pain is in top of hand, metacarpals in line with index finger maybe 1 - 2 inches above wrist. Had X-ray immediately after incident (I understand the effectiveness of that..) but have seen a PT who also didn't think it was a break - his suspicion is injury to ligaments between metacarpal bones. Thanks for the video, unfortunately not my pain area :/

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#25 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 03:42:52 pm
John, given you climb to a pretty high level I would assume I'm telling you something you already know, but rest almost ways makes these things worse in the long term. What is the injury and how have you had it?

I know you are right. Tendons never respond to doing nothing but finding the right intensity in the rehab is the tricky part. I just wanted to rest a few days to see how it felt after it settled down after the rehab. I had golfers elbow for the last month or two but also something on the other side of the elbow. This was just a mild annoyance but then developed into something much more acute just before Xmas. It could be tennis elbow or something up with the annular ligament. I am not sure. I did have something similar a couple of years back and eventually it just went away.

Yeah, very tricky. I had bad tennis a few years back, went on for 3 months of the usual cycle of ignoring it, trying to rest it, vaguely trying some exercises. Then got on to heavy eccentric wrist curls (using other hand to raise) and this got it cured in 3 weeks. Needed to be fairly painful during the exercise to have any benefit.

The next year I got the same in my left. Great I thought, just do the same....except this time I caught it early, so the heavy weights were way too aggravating. In the end I just had to avoid things that made it worse, and do some regular lighter static isometric holds (i.e. basically just not doing an eccentric/concentric reverse wrist curl, just holding) and I've got a really good massage I should rally film and show you. It involves firmly digging your fingers of the other hand into the section about 1cm out from the lateral epicondyle to provoke some pain, then just wiggling your fingers of the bad arm and flexing the wrist etc. This seems to really help with remodelling and promoting repair (n=1 and I invented it, so....you know....it's probably BS)

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#26 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 03:43:08 pm
Power Club

Mon - Lattice edge one arm up to BW and +4 kg. Back3 two arms up to +34 kg. 30" EMOM high pull and snatch 1+1 40 kg x13.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing, not bad at all. EMOM loaded carries 30" 2 x high pulls x15 + 2 x clean x15 50 kg.
Thu - board climbing, tired. 30" TBDL finisher 80 kg. 30" clean and press finisher 40 kg.
Fri - 40' EMOM weights: pull ups x5 + dumbbell thruster x5.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - loaded carries 16'.

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#27 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 08:32:25 pm
Any thoughts?

Knowing nothing of your climbing history, if you've never done any structured training before it has to be built up gradually!

That sounds like a pretty big week for someone who hasn't really trained before, so you could be the typical "New Year, new me" thing; get psyched, set loads of goals, hammer it in training, get injured....don't try to do too much too soon!

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#28 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 09:37:40 pm
M. Wharcliffe. Thanks for the info Bonjoy
Warmed up on a few random easys which were nice before moving on to Grunne Holle and Down in a Hole. Both lovely, GH was especially good.
Headed down to Kobe, managed to do the individual moves but after about 20mins the heavens open which wasn't forecast so that was game over. Very keen to return for it though.
Back home did a quick Max hangs session. 6 x 7second hangs on the bottom edges of the BM100 @ +40kg
Pull up Pyramid from 10-1-10 @ +7.5kg, +12.5kg, +20kg, +26.25kg, +32.5kg

T.

W. Eavestone night session
Warmed up on Get a Grip, then moved on to Sky Diamond. Spent ages trying to figure out the ending which seemed pretty awkward to those of long leg. Never managed to do the last hard move but just had a see what happens go from the start a did it with relative ease.
Figured out the end of Digital Disfunction which is even more bunched for the tall, had a few goes from the start falling off flipping the big pocket but then I ran out of power and so did the lights.

T. Boss was ill so got the day off which luckily conisided with surf being up on the east coast. Was a bit windy but Runswick was firing and caught some of the best and longest waves I had in a while. Dug out board I'd not ridden in ages too which went great!

F. Board session
Just fancied climbing so not a huge amount of structure.
Warmed up on a usual circuit of problems and messed around making up random moves.
Did the undercut move on my Unjustified simulator a few time, then managed it a couple of times from standing matched on the big undercuts. Had one particulary closed go from the sit too.
Tried a couple of old problems from the spring and was surpised at how hard they felt, must hae been going well on them in the past. Pieced the individual moves together on on and the other in 2 halves.
Pull up Pyramid to finish @ +8.75kg, +13.75kg, +21.25kg, +27.5kg, +33.75kg

S. City Bloc after work.
Half session of one armed repeaters on bottom edges of BM1000. 3 sets of Half crimp @ -13.75kg and 3 of Open handed @ -11.75kg
Tried a few of the harder blocs of the current set. Did on of the purples out of the back roof and close to the other green next to it. Manged one green on the old comp wall and close on another two.
Indoor grades never seem to make any sense to me as I end up projetcting stuff that acording to the circuits shouldn't be harder than 7b yet can sometimes take multiple session yet that would be a grade I'd just on as part of a warm up on rock?!?
Rings
3x8 of Flys, Archer Rows and Press Ups.

S.

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#29 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 09:40:06 pm
Finish with 2-rep max pull ups testing, just about managed +25kg; lots of gains to be made here!

Glad I'm not the only one who can hang of small hold with more weight than can do a pull up with.

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#30 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 09:59:02 pm
Finish with 2-rep max pull ups testing, just about managed +25kg; lots of gains to be made here!

Glad I'm not the only one who can hang of small hold with more weight than can do a pull up with.

Long levers init.

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#31 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 10:11:30 pm
Finish with 2-rep max pull ups testing, just about managed +25kg; lots of gains to be made here!

Glad I'm not the only one who can hang of small hold with more weight than can do a pull up with.

I totally misunderstood your entry from last week and thought you were doing one rep with your bodyweight added again because you wrote 100%!!

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#32 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 10:20:51 pm
Any thoughts?

Knowing nothing of your climbing history, if you've never done any structured training before it has to be built up gradually!

That sounds like a pretty big week for someone who hasn't really trained before, so you could be the typical "New Year, new me" thing; get psyched, set loads of goals, hammer it in training, get injured....don't try to do too much too soon!

I've had long periods before of doing 3-4 days a week of some form of intensive climbing, but I guess since I'm actually accessing higher levels of stimulation via the limit boulder sessions, I guess I will be putting more stress than I'm used to. I was always a sufferer of the dreaded "Font Elbow" when doing a lot of compression, and during my lattice assessment he did mention I don't use my lats/back enough when doing basic pulls, which ties really well in with Video from Hooper.

My question, how do I teach my lats to do the work instead of my arms?

#learning point 1: don't do AnCap too much initially, and certainly not the day before winter climbing!

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#33 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 10:23:30 pm
Back on the bandwagon for me with 3 months until our trip.

Doing running physio most days but starting to add climbing back in now that life is a bit less chaotic. It’s also 3 months since I injured my A2 at Kilnsey and I’ve barely climbed since then bar the odd easy board session.

M - F. physio most days + lots of walking with the dog.

S. 2 hours on my friends board. Nice to climb with a small crew of people. Took it fairly easy with some bits of try hard. Then 2 hours on my own board in the evening. I stuck to longer circuit style problems with an aim of not re-injuring myself whilst I get recalibrated, and also to work on some of my session fitness again / just get used to climbing.

S. Chilled day of dog walking, going for pizza and cleaning. Booked a session with my Physio (biscuit / andy) to get some training planned out. I’d like to try and add something structured to my board sessions - bit of work on some hangs, back 3 etc. Basically trying to strengthen up a bit to try and stop injuries.

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#34 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 10:47:16 pm
Finish with 2-rep max pull ups testing, just about managed +25kg; lots of gains to be made here!

Glad I'm not the only one who can hang of small hold with more weight than can do a pull up with.

I totally misunderstood your entry from last week and thought you were doing one rep with your bodyweight added again because you wrote 100%!!

Ah yes, my bad. 100% just meaning all of the weight i.e One rep max and the other percentages just been of that weight if that makes sense so can definitely see how that could be misinterpreted it's just how I've been keeping track in my own notes.
Totals would be
Max hang @ 160% (72 + 42kg)
One Rep Max pull at @ 150% (72 + 35kg)

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#35 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 11:01:17 pm

Ah yes, my bad. 100% just meaning all of the weight i.e One rep max and the other percentages just been of that weight if that makes sense so can definitely see how that could be misinterpreted it's just how I've been keeping track in my own notes.
Totals would be
Max hang @ 160% (72 + 42kg)
One Rep Max pull at @ 150% (72 + 35kg)

Totally makes sense although I am slightly disappointed you’re not a secret long arm pull up monster!

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#36 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 10, 2022, 11:42:36 pm
My question, how do I teach my lats to do the work instead of my arms?

The classic cues for engaging the lats and other back muscles when doing pullups are:

1. Concentrate on leading/pulling with your elbows and getting them behind you, rather than pulling with the hands.

2. keep your chest up and out, with a slight arch in your back if needed. Aim to touch your chest to the bar.

Explosive pullups where you aim to get your bellybutton to the bar will also teach you to use lats with power as you can't really do that with just arms. I also think rows are great for back strength.


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#37 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 11, 2022, 09:06:33 am
Nice one Liam, I'll give those a go  :2thumbsup:

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#38 Re: Power Club 616. 3rd - 9th Jan 2022
January 11, 2022, 09:20:14 am

Ah yes, my bad. 100% just meaning all of the weight i.e One rep max and the other percentages just been of that weight if that makes sense so can definitely see how that could be misinterpreted it's just how I've been keeping track in my own notes.
Totals would be
Max hang @ 160% (72 + 42kg)
One Rep Max pull at @ 150% (72 + 35kg)

Totally makes sense although I am slightly disappointed you’re not a secret long arm pull up monster!

Haha, sadly not. My main weakness is definitely still being weak but I'm slowly trying to make a change to that.

 

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