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[Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A] (Read 2129 times)

jimpopeonarope

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[Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 06, 2022, 06:01:39 pm
Made the most of the good weather yesterday and put up a few new climbs at Wyming Brook. Grades are a bit of a stab, let us know what you think if you get on them or if they've been climbed already!

Moth and Candle Buttress

'Wood Wide Web' 7A+
Climbs the center of the left most wall from the slopey break. Traverse of left at the top break. Highball

'Meat Hooks' 8A
on the right-hand side of the buttress is an arete behind a tree. from sat with the arete and a sloper, climb up to the top break via some compression moves. The stand from the slopey break is worth doing from Sam Lawson at about 7A

Lone Boulder

'Father I Compress' 7C+
This one is a bit harder to find. From the top parking, cross the brook and follow the top path until you're roughly in line with the reservoir road. There is a boulder just downhill from the path and you can see the prow.
Starting with the pocket on the right aręte and crimpy break, climb the prow without using the big ramp on the face.

There's photos of all the boulders and a few other recent ones on my Flickr to help make them easier to find  :)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/with/51802440489/

Wood FT

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#1 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 06, 2022, 06:23:06 pm
Nice one. Wood Wide Web looks great for the low 7 grasper.

Fiend

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#2 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 06, 2022, 06:32:16 pm
Seems that bloody Bonjoy might be influencing the naming protocols of the youth of today  :blink:

EdGowSmith

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#3 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 06, 2022, 09:15:08 pm
Nice Jim, these look great, definitely checking out soon.

remus

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#4 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 06, 2022, 09:33:08 pm
Seems that bloody Bonjoy might be influencing the naming protocols of the youth of today  :blink:

If it means quality names like "Father I Compress" then Im all for it.

SA Chris

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#5 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 07, 2022, 08:14:37 am
Although Meathook dates back to a classic Jim Holloway problem from the 70s. 

Good finds though.

Bonjoy

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#6 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 07, 2022, 05:15:57 pm
Seems that bloody Bonjoy might be influencing the naming protocols of the youth of today  :blink:

If it means quality names like "Father I Compress" then Im all for it.
Love it. Great name and appropriately papal.

cofe

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#7 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 22, 2022, 12:39:12 pm
Father I Compress looks great, and tough.  Just off the path about here:
https://goo.gl/maps/NFjseiwoQFgeNtLXA

Assume it sit starts?

monkey boy

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#8 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 22, 2022, 02:06:23 pm
Father I Compress looks great, and tough.  Just off the path about here:
https://goo.gl/maps/NFjseiwoQFgeNtLXA

Assume it sit starts?

It starts left hand in the obvious crimpy break and right hand in the slot/pocket around the arete, there's some video of Jim on the FA that'll be up at some point I assume. I could sit start in that position off a blubber pad, Jim just did it as a crouch. Starting matched on break would just be awkward.

monkey boy

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#9 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 22, 2022, 02:08:34 pm
Jim also added this the other day - https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/51829454745/

I then did a direct start to it yesterday. I guess it's eliminate as Jim's start is easier but it's a great move if you have the lank.

cofe

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#10 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 22, 2022, 03:55:49 pm
Father I Compress looks great, and tough.  Just off the path about here:
https://goo.gl/maps/NFjseiwoQFgeNtLXA

Assume it sit starts?

It starts left hand in the obvious crimpy break and right hand in the slot/pocket around the arete, there's some video of Jim on the FA that'll be up at some point I assume. I could sit start in that position off a blubber pad, Jim just did it as a crouch. Starting matched on break would just be awkward.


Couldn’t quite work out if that position meant sitting or modern sitting (crouching). There’s a lower right hand position but I guess it could be awkward. Still looked good.

Duma

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#11 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 22, 2022, 04:06:16 pm
I fucking hate sit starts that aren't. Call it a crouch and specify the holds, or start off your arse.

teestub

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#12 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 22, 2022, 06:31:40 pm
I fucking hate sit starts that aren't. Call it a crouch and specify the holds, or start off your arse.

Seems a bit harsh considering there’s probably around half a metre difference in what an average distribution of climbers would be able to reach sat on their bum!

monkey boy

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#13 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 22, 2022, 06:54:08 pm
I fucking hate sit starts that aren't. Call it a crouch and specify the holds, or start off your arse.

Yeah what Jim did is the obvious place. Anything else would just be awkward because of the block. He didn't call it a sit, just specified holds (see start of thread). I could just sit in the place he had to crouch because I'm tall and he's small. It's a brilliant problem, some meaty narrow compression, and the rock for the left hand is lovely. I've walked that path for years and always thought it looked too small to climb. It's great the psyche and work him and Sam are putting in, along with the usual stuff from Jon and Ned.

Duma

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#14 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 22, 2022, 08:17:01 pm
Apologies - I have no idea or opinion about this problem in particular, was just a general moan about people calling things sits that aren't, or starting things crouched that are sits (stacking pads if you can't reach the holds is ok ofc). Anyway off topic, I'll butt out now!

monkey boy

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#15 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 23, 2022, 08:37:16 am
Apologies - I have no idea or opinion about this problem in particular, was just a general moan about people calling things sits that aren't, or starting things crouched that are sits (stacking pads if you can't reach the holds is ok ofc). Anyway off topic, I'll butt out now!

I totally agree with this, seems to happen more and more nowadays. Not the case on this one though, just I'm big and Jim is small  :lol:

SA Chris

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#16 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 26, 2022, 11:09:56 am
I'll butt out now!

Quality punnage.

spidermonkey09

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#17 Re: [Peak] [Wyming Brook] [7A+ - 8A]
January 26, 2022, 11:25:21 am
Apologies - I have no idea or opinion about this problem in particular, was just a general moan about people calling things sits that aren't, or starting things crouched that are sits (stacking pads if you can't reach the holds is ok ofc). Anyway off topic, I'll butt out now!

I totally agree with this, seems to happen more and more nowadays. Not the case on this one though, just I'm big and Jim is small  :lol:

I sympathise with Jim having attempted to start Flatworld Sit from a proper sit and not being able to even reach the holds that monkeyboy pulls on with easily in his video! Looking forward to the videos of these.

 

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