In a recent video with Magnus Midtbø, who seems to be able to get the people he talks to open up, Adam Ondra says that he and Jacob Schubert are still competitive in lead comps because the level has not increased in the last ten years. Ondra puts this down to more competitors trying to compete in bouldering as well, and you cannot really improve in endurance if you are training bouldering as well.
I found this interesting. It is 10:32 into this.
https://youtu.be/lbJta3GRYqI?t=632
It is certainly true that the onsight grades on rock has not really increased the last ten years. Midtbø, Usobiaga and Puigblanqué from the early 10s would still be the best in the world on onsight on rock together with Ondra and Megos.
I found this interesting. It is 10:32 into this.
https://youtu.be/lbJta3GRYqI?t=632
It is certainly true that the onsight grades on rock has not really increased the last ten years. Midtbø, Usobiaga and Puigblanqué from the early 10s would still be the best in the world on onsight on rock together with Ondra and Megos.