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Instinct Slipper Replacement (Read 5078 times)

MischaHY

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#25 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 12, 2023, 07:44:28 am
Do they resole ok?

I've had the new Chimera resoled successfully.

I must say, I was quite disappointed with them. It was absolutely amazing when I first started wearing them. Fit was perfect out the box and my go-to for most things. Then the heel bagged out horrendously and I can barely get any power through the toes anymore. They're fine for smearing on grit and slopers because they're so soft, but anything steeper or smaller and they feel like jelly. Barely wear them anymore despite being my main shoe for about six/nine months (before they bagged).

How did you size them? Could it be that half a size smaller would have resolved this after an initial break in?

MischaHY

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#26 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 12, 2023, 07:55:44 am
Considering the original thread topic, I've recently switched to the Instinct S and Lace for my rock shoes because they fit my foot shape better in terms of width and have the narrower heel that I need. Still early days with the S but so far I'm very impressed and especially the heel is excellent for a slipper. It's sensitive but can still deliver a lot of force through small holds. The heel is softer than that of the Lace but still has enough stiffness and form to hold on edges without feeling baggy. Toehooking is excellent due to the really high rubber coverage but the perforation seems to prevent any discomfort from such a large toe patch. Really looking forward to getting them out on the sandstone and granite.

M1V0

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#27 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 12, 2023, 08:23:26 am

How did you size them? Could it be that half a size smaller would have resolved this after an initial break in?

Good thought, but I sized them to the smallest I’ve ever fit into Instincts. So maybe? Not sure I could have gone any smaller. They never really had a breaking in period I thought, maybe because they were as soft as they were.

I seem to remember chatting to someone at the Bowderstone recently with Chimeras who shared my sentiment on them. Although maybe they were just agreeing so they could stop talking to me…

MischaHY

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#28 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 12, 2023, 08:37:27 am

How did you size them? Could it be that half a size smaller would have resolved this after an initial break in?

Good thought, but I sized them to the smallest I’ve ever fit into Instincts. So maybe? Not sure I could have gone any smaller. They never really had a breaking in period I thought, maybe because they were as soft as they were.

I seem to remember chatting to someone at the Bowderstone recently with Chimeras who shared my sentiment on them. Although maybe they were just agreeing so they could stop talking to me…

Just a thought because you said the fit was perfect out of the box. I'm not a fan of grim tight shoes but some intial tightness usually results in a better longer term fit after an initial few sessions when the shoe feels too tight.

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#29 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 12, 2023, 01:01:11 pm
Considering the original thread topic, I've recently switched to the Instinct S and Lace for my rock shoes because they fit my foot shape better in terms of width and have the narrower heel that I need. Still early days with the S but so far I'm very impressed and especially the heel is excellent for a slipper. It's sensitive but can still deliver a lot of force through small holds. The heel is softer than that of the Lace but still has enough stiffness and form to hold on edges without feeling baggy. Toehooking is excellent due to the really high rubber coverage but the perforation seems to prevent any discomfort from such a large toe patch. Really looking forward to getting them out on the sandstone and granite.
I had to sell my instinct S because they felt awful on my feet. The rubber top felt clunky and inflexible and the lack of traditional rand made it very difficult to see/sense where the outside edge is. Despite having a feeling of 'power' through the toes the acid test was that when I put my VSRs back on I could do problems that I was struggling with in the instinct S.

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#30 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 12, 2023, 01:48:32 pm
I can’t make up my mind about the Instinct S. They seem tighter than the equivalent sized VS-R and I agree with Scouse’s point about not being able to see your outside edge. I also seem to slip off holds that you’re trying to pull in on on steep stuff as they’re just too stiff. Obvs the they’re great toe hooking and the heel is surprisingly good for a slipper, but I kind of wish I’d got them half a size up to just use on easy circuits/indoor routes/trad etc I.e. biffing around. Doubt I’ll buy another pair.

MischaHY

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#31 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 12, 2023, 04:11:27 pm
I can’t make up my mind about the Instinct S. They seem tighter than the equivalent sized VS-R and I agree with Scouse’s point about not being able to see your outside edge. I also seem to slip off holds that you’re trying to pull in on on steep stuff as they’re just too stiff. Obvs the they’re great toe hooking and the heel is surprisingly good for a slipper, but I kind of wish I’d got them half a size up to just use on easy circuits/indoor routes/trad etc I.e. biffing around. Doubt I’ll buy another pair.

How small did you go? I'm 1.5 sizes down and was worried initially because they felt really stiff but after a few sessions they really loosened up and got nicely flexible.

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#32 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 12, 2023, 05:37:26 pm
I take a 43.5 in all of the Instincts. The slippers definitely feel a smidge tighter than the Velcros. I’m normally a 46 in running shoes though I take 45.5 in Scarpa mountain boots.

I was hoping the slippers were going to get soft but they haven’t yet.

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#33 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 12, 2023, 06:12:48 pm
I wear size 40 in Instinct lace and both blue & Orange Velcro but I wear 41 in the newest Instinct Slipper. The heel is much improved on the previous slipper with the blue stripe. (PS. I bought 40.5 first and they are a little too tight).

I think the new Instinct slipper is a great all rounder but on reflection I prefer both Velcro Instincts by a small margin.

MischaHY

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#34 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 12, 2023, 06:45:46 pm
I take a 43.5 in all of the Instincts. The slippers definitely feel a smidge tighter than the Velcros. I’m normally a 46 in running shoes though I take 45.5 in Scarpa mountain boots.

I was hoping the slippers were going to get soft but they haven’t yet.

I wonder though if the reason they feel too stiff is because they're sized too small. If you're 2-2.5 sizes down depending on what we take as street size then that's a very tight fit and could be stopping the shoe from being able to flex in the toebox.

Steve Crowe

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#35 Re: Instinct Slipper Replacement
January 13, 2023, 10:07:22 am
I think each upgrade to the Instinct Slipper has got more robust and I think you can buy a more comfortable fit with the worry of them stretching much.

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/climbing-shoes/instinct-s/

 

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