Thanks everyone, I have a pair of the blue Instinct VS-Rs which are my 'good' shoes, though they are probably a half size too small for comfort. So maybe a size bigger on those, or a pair of Chimeras (actually probably not as I'm definitely a central pointer with my long 2nd and 3rd toes...), or there's a new Instinct slippers coming soon on the Scarpa website... or look at the Sportiva Theory.Though most likely I'll see what comes up in the winter sales first!
The new chimera (grey) appears a tad broader than the yellow/red version.
They have. The Chimera uses that last and it’s brilliant.https://www.scarpa.co.uk/climbing-shoes/chimera/
Quote from: mrjonathanr on January 05, 2022, 09:20:48 pmThe new chimera (grey) appears a tad broader than the yellow/red version. I don't know if they're broader, but the new ones are much better than the old IMO, especially the heel.
Quote from: mrjonathanr on January 05, 2022, 09:20:48 pmThe new chimera (grey) appears a tad broader than the yellow/red version. I don't know if they're broader, but the new ones are much better than the old IMO, especially the heel. The new Chimera feels a notch stiffer and more downturned than the Drago (or at least the Drago LV which I use); they're v nice for "clawing" on steep ground with your toes, and I suspect will work well on steep sport routes. If I wanted a shoe for smearing or standing on indoor volumes I would go Drago instead.
Do they resole ok?
Quote from: Fultonius on January 11, 2023, 11:07:31 amDo they resole ok?I've had the new Chimera resoled successfully.I must say, I was quite disappointed with them. It was absolutely amazing when I first started wearing them. Fit was perfect out the box and my go-to for most things. Then the heel bagged out horrendously and I can barely get any power through the toes anymore. They're fine for smearing on grit and slopers because they're so soft, but anything steeper or smaller and they feel like jelly. Barely wear them anymore despite being my main shoe for about six/nine months (before they bagged).
If in doubt, blame Barrows. For everything.
Quote from: M1V0 on January 11, 2023, 02:37:11 pmQuote from: Fultonius on January 11, 2023, 11:07:31 amDo they resole ok?I've had the new Chimera resoled successfully.I must say, I was quite disappointed with them. It was absolutely amazing when I first started wearing them. Fit was perfect out the box and my go-to for most things. Then the heel bagged out horrendously and I can barely get any power through the toes anymore. They're fine for smearing on grit and slopers because they're so soft, but anything steeper or smaller and they feel like jelly. Barely wear them anymore despite being my main shoe for about six/nine months (before they bagged).Is this when you first started wearing them from new, or from re-soled? So far, the old (parrot coloured) ones are not bagged out and I'd say I'm about 1/2 through the rubber. I usually get two resoles out of Instinct Vs, so I'd hope I'd get at least one out of a Chimera?I do find the width snugger than the (wider) instinct VSs, but if anything, for me that's a bonus. I'd say I'm halfway between the Chimera and Instinct VS width, but both work. I'm now thinking this thread should either be split, or split and merged with the Chimera sizing one even thought Barrows' comments were the key ones that got me started.
How did you size them? Could it be that half a size smaller would have resolved this after an initial break in?
Quote from: MischaHY on January 12, 2023, 07:44:28 amHow did you size them? Could it be that half a size smaller would have resolved this after an initial break in?Good thought, but I sized them to the smallest I’ve ever fit into Instincts. So maybe? Not sure I could have gone any smaller. They never really had a breaking in period I thought, maybe because they were as soft as they were. I seem to remember chatting to someone at the Bowderstone recently with Chimeras who shared my sentiment on them. Although maybe they were just agreeing so they could stop talking to me…
Considering the original thread topic, I've recently switched to the Instinct S and Lace for my rock shoes because they fit my foot shape better in terms of width and have the narrower heel that I need. Still early days with the S but so far I'm very impressed and especially the heel is excellent for a slipper. It's sensitive but can still deliver a lot of force through small holds. The heel is softer than that of the Lace but still has enough stiffness and form to hold on edges without feeling baggy. Toehooking is excellent due to the really high rubber coverage but the perforation seems to prevent any discomfort from such a large toe patch. Really looking forward to getting them out on the sandstone and granite.
I can’t make up my mind about the Instinct S. They seem tighter than the equivalent sized VS-R and I agree with Scouse’s point about not being able to see your outside edge. I also seem to slip off holds that you’re trying to pull in on on steep stuff as they’re just too stiff. Obvs the they’re great toe hooking and the heel is surprisingly good for a slipper, but I kind of wish I’d got them half a size up to just use on easy circuits/indoor routes/trad etc I.e. biffing around. Doubt I’ll buy another pair.
I take a 43.5 in all of the Instincts. The slippers definitely feel a smidge tighter than the Velcros. I’m normally a 46 in running shoes though I take 45.5 in Scarpa mountain boots.I was hoping the slippers were going to get soft but they haven’t yet.