[chris j]

My loved old Scarpa Instinct slippers are on their last legs after their 4th resole so I need to find a replacement.  I'm well out of touch as to what to replace them with,  I tried the instinct SR a couple of years ago and didn't really get on with them but probably bought them a size too tight at least.

The selection in the shops down here in Exeter is frankly rubbish so I'm going to have to buy on faith online and don't really want to mess around with returns unnecessarily so any suggestions would be welcome.

After so many resoles they are soft as anything but fit like a glove and are my go to for the wall and not desperate sport, so if there's any soft slipper with the same foot shape that would be ideal.

Thanks all!

[dr_botnik]

The Scarpa drago's are really soft velcro's. Bit more high end than a cheap slipper for the wall, and id size down half from the instinct slipper. But they are pretty sensitive fresh out the box

[Steve Crowe]

You could try the Instinct Velcro but go for a size up on the older slipper. The blue is softer more like the old orange slipper. I use the blue mostly indoors and the orange Velcro is slightly stiffer and I prefer that outdoors. Maybe try a pair of each.

[Steve Crowe]

The instinct is a wide fit, the drago is a narrow fit according to the Scarpa website. Robbie’s blog might be wort reading https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/choose-the-right-weapon-for-the-right-battles/

[Thedevonshirepiemuncher]

I've got the original orange instinct slipper and had a few pairs , never the new version as I swapped into the instinct Vs then the instinct vsr ( blue version) which is much better than the old slipper ever was (in my opinion) it has a heel that doesn't pull off but it's a sod to get in and out of till they break in then it's less annoying

Also really like the drago and personally don't think that is that narrow, they break in quite quick, I have a fairly wide foot
Much softer than the instincts but they still seem to work on all styles of climbing
Also easier to get on and off

[mrjonathanr]

Likewise, I have those shoes. Love the orange slipper. The Chimera is basically a Drago with an insert so you can edge, I like these a lot. The new chimera (grey) appears a tad broader than the yellow/red version.

I'd go for these (and will, when current shoes wear out). https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/climbing-shoes/scarpa/chimera

A word on foot shape- a lot of Scarpas narrow to a point over the second toe, like Instincts and Vapours. Irritating if your big toe is longest however. the models that narrow to the big toe are Drago/Chimera/Boostic/Mago. They refer to this as 'classic' vs 'centre' when you look at the lasts https://www.scarpa.co.uk/climbing-shoes/drago/

[Wellsy]

Drago LVs are narrower than regular Dragos so they cover a decent amount of foot sizes between them. I massively rate Dragos myself, they're so good.

[User deactivated.]

Although i've not had a pair for a while, the Instinct family are one of the best fits for my feet, so we may have similar shaped feet (narrow heel, broad forefoot?). I now climb in the following well fitting shoes:

Sportiva Theory - ultra soft and designed for indoor competition climbing but have become my favourite pair of outdoor bouldering and board shoes 
Evolv Oracle (lace) and Phantom (velcro) - good for steep edging and climb a bit like better fitting Solutions for my feet. Better quality and more durable than any Sportiva or Scarpa shoes i've owned.
Sportiva genius - In terms of stiffness and edging vs smearing, these feel somewhere in the middle of the Evolv pairs and the Sportiva Theory for me. I've found the occasional foothold where the rounded edge is like cheating but sometimes I feel compromised by it. Doesn't work well indoors for me.

None of these might be the shoes you're looking for but there's a good chance they will fit well.

I also have anasazi pinks which fit poorly. Scarpa Dragos/Chimeras/Boosters don't fit my feet well either.

[Andy F]

The Scarpa Stix

Actually, scrap that as Scarpa have stupidly stopped making them and haven't brought out a suitable replacement (stiff slipper on the FZ last) 

[mrjonathanr]

They have. The Chimera uses that last and it’s brilliant.
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/climbing-shoes/chimera/

[chris j]

Thanks everyone, I have a pair of the blue Instinct VS-Rs which are my 'good' shoes,  though they are probably a half size too small for comfort. So maybe a size bigger on those, or a pair of Chimeras (actually probably not as I'm definitely a central pointer with my  long 2nd and 3rd toes...), or there's a new Instinct slippers coming soon on the Scarpa website... or look at the Sportiva Theory.

Though most likely I'll see what comes up in the winter sales first!

[Wellsy]

I'm tempted to get Chimeras when I replace these Dragos, I've heard they're so good

[Steve Crowe]

Thanks everyone, I have a pair of the blue Instinct VS-Rs which are my 'good' shoes,  though they are probably a half size too small for comfort. So maybe a size bigger on those, or a pair of Chimeras (actually probably not as I'm definitely a central pointer with my  long 2nd and 3rd toes...), or there's a new Instinct slippers coming soon on the Scarpa website... or look at the Sportiva Theory.

Though most likely I'll see what comes up in the winter sales first!

I found when I moved up a size from the old orange Instinct slipper that they were a good fit from new and remained so. They don't appear to stretch to the point of getting baggy, I think it may be the more elasticated construction that keeps the shoes feeling like a nice fit even after a few resoles. I think you should certainly consider trying another pair of Blue Velcro but also perhaps something else a bit stiffer maybe?

[abarro81]

The new chimera (grey) appears a tad broader than the yellow/red version.

I don't know if they're broader, but the new ones are much better than the old IMO, especially the heel. The new Chimera feels a notch stiffer and more downturned than the Drago (or at least the Drago LV which I use); they're v nice for "clawing" on steep ground with your toes, and I suspect will work well on steep sport routes. If I wanted a shoe for smearing or standing on indoor volumes I would go Drago instead.

[Andy F]

They have. The Chimera uses that last and it’s brilliant.
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/climbing-shoes/chimera/

But it's not a slipper. It's got laces and a heel that doesn't fall off when you look at a hook.

[mrjonathanr]

The new chimera (grey) appears a tad broader than the yellow/red version.

I don't know if they're broader, but the new ones are much better than the old IMO, especially the heel.

My yellow ones are quite tight on my hobbit feet, but the new grey ones I tried on in Outside were a better width, so I assume that's representative. They looked excellent from a quick once over.

Andy: yes, fair point, slippers don't usually have laces!

[Fultonius]

The new chimera (grey) appears a tad broader than the yellow/red version.

I don't know if they're broader, but the new ones are much better than the old IMO, especially the heel. The new Chimera feels a notch stiffer and more downturned than the Drago (or at least the Drago LV which I use); they're v nice for "clawing" on steep ground with your toes, and I suspect will work well on steep sport routes. If I wanted a shoe for smearing or standing on indoor volumes I would go Drago instead.

Phheeewww!

I've had the old Chimeras in my quiver for ages, but never quite got round to using them much (Scotland doesn't have much sport where they'd be good), but really fell in love with them on this trip to Costa Blanco on everything that wasn't really hard edging. It's like I'm learning how to smear for the very first time!  (always been a bit of an edge-addict and smearphobe)

It got me to thinking I should start stockpiling in case they change / discontinue them....   so I'm very glad to see you think the new ones are even better! I will need to get a pair.

Do they resole ok?

[SamT]

I assume you've seen this...

https://world.scarpa.com/page/climbing-collection-structure

I got some chimera (the blue/black ones) specifically for grit.. (Outside peeps all raved about them for grit).

found them a bit narrow in the end. Having not seen the above chart at the time, it confirms they are actually a narrow fit.

My big toe is the longest, so according to the above chart, I should have some stiff Boostics and some soft Boosters in my quiver.

Still got my 3 pairs of beloved red/white original lace instincts on a resole cycle, (old and soft, through to new and still stiff) so no need to buy more boots just yet.

[M1V0]

Do they resole ok?

I've had the new Chimera resoled successfully.

I must say, I was quite disappointed with them. It was absolutely amazing when I first started wearing them. Fit was perfect out the box and my go-to for most things. Then the heel bagged out horrendously and I can barely get any power through the toes anymore. They're fine for smearing on grit and slopers because they're so soft, but anything steeper or smaller and they feel like jelly. Barely wear them anymore despite being my main shoe for about six/nine months (before they bagged).

[Fultonius]

Do they resole ok?

I've had the new Chimera resoled successfully.

I must say, I was quite disappointed with them. It was absolutely amazing when I first started wearing them. Fit was perfect out the box and my go-to for most things. Then the heel bagged out horrendously and I can barely get any power through the toes anymore. They're fine for smearing on grit and slopers because they're so soft, but anything steeper or smaller and they feel like jelly. Barely wear them anymore despite being my main shoe for about six/nine months (before they bagged).

Is this when you first started wearing them from new, or from re-soled? 

So far, the old (parrot coloured) ones are not bagged out and I'd say I'm about 1/2 through the rubber. I usually get two resoles out of Instinct Vs, so I'd hope I'd get at least one out of a Chimera?

I do find the width snugger than the (wider) instinct VSs, but if anything, for me that's a bonus. I'd say I'm halfway between the Chimera and Instinct VS width, but both work. 

I'm now thinking this thread should either be split, or split and merged with the Chimera sizing one even thought Barrows' comments were the key ones that got me started.

[SA Chris]

If in doubt, blame Barrows. For everything.

[MischaHY]

If in doubt, blame Barrows. For everything.

I'd like to blame Barrows for the General State of Everything but am unsure of where to begin for best effect.

Do you have any suggestions? For example the fact that the rain in Baden-Württemberg is keeping me off my sandstone objectives in the Schwarzwald is definitely down to Barrows if you ask me.

[SA Chris]

Definitely. He failed to produce an effective weather control machine.

[M1V0]

Do they resole ok?

I've had the new Chimera resoled successfully.

I must say, I was quite disappointed with them. It was absolutely amazing when I first started wearing them. Fit was perfect out the box and my go-to for most things. Then the heel bagged out horrendously and I can barely get any power through the toes anymore. They're fine for smearing on grit and slopers because they're so soft, but anything steeper or smaller and they feel like jelly. Barely wear them anymore despite being my main shoe for about six/nine months (before they bagged).

Is this when you first started wearing them from new, or from re-soled? 

So far, the old (parrot coloured) ones are not bagged out and I'd say I'm about 1/2 through the rubber. I usually get two resoles out of Instinct Vs, so I'd hope I'd get at least one out of a Chimera?

I do find the width snugger than the (wider) instinct VSs, but if anything, for me that's a bonus. I'd say I'm halfway between the Chimera and Instinct VS width, but both work. 

I'm now thinking this thread should either be split, or split and merged with the Chimera sizing one even thought Barrows' comments were the key ones that got me started.

They bagged out sometime in the heel post-resole. Can't remember when exactly, but again sometime post-resole they lost all tension in the front toe box. I seem to recall I had them resoled far quicker than I would have wanted, possibly because they are so soft I felt the lack of rubber quite quickly.

Could have been due to the resole they lost tension, but I don't recall making that association at the time. Pretty sure I kept wearing them a lot afterwards, so maybe not?

[Fultonius]

I do wonder if there's something in the way they're constructed using the "TPS" that relies a lot on the cupped form of the midsole/sole to create the tension, which maybe doesn't deal so well with a resole?

Either way, good to know that I shouldn't expect much more than a smeary slipper in the long term. TBH, I do so little steep lime that isn't edgey that I can deal with saving good shoes for it.