[seankenny]

Wouldn't most places in the south of France broadly decent at this time of year, obviously depending on orientation and the day-to-day weather? In fact isn't April kind of prime time for this area? There is the coast (Calanques, Toulon, Turbie) and further inland (Buoux, Chateauvert, Verdon). It's not far to drive between them so if the weather is crap in the hills it's easy to relocate to the seaside. Buis and environs have plenty of crags with a ton of 6s on them and decent bolting.

Ceuse bolting was fine for me and I'm a wuss.

[James Malloch]

St Leger, Briancon area, the other crags near Gap like Sisteron and Orpierre would all be fine now. Might be hot at some of them if you get the timings wrong. Ceuse might also be fine but doesn't really fit your other requirements of closely spaced bolts and steady grades, especially in the 6s.

Ailefroide and Briancon are good but not world class. In your position I'd go to St Leger.

Cheers - I’ll have a look at them later this week. I’m thinking St Leger, though a friend of a friend is there and says it’s real hot. But the north wall should be fine and I think we’re reasonably tolerant of heat.

And from the other posts on ceuse. I also though the bolting was pretty good. Spaced, but bolts where you actually need them rather than trying to clip mid sequence. Maybe it could be a goer Climbing in the sun…

[James Malloch]

Wouldn't most places in the south of France broadly decent at this time of year, obviously depending on orientation and the day-to-day weather? In fact isn't April kind of prime time for this area? There is the coast (Calanques, Toulon, Turbie) and further inland (Buoux, Chateauvert, Verdon). It's not far to drive between them so if the weather is crap in the hills it's easy to relocate to the seaside. Buis and environs have plenty of crags with a ton of 6s on them and decent bolting.

Ceuse bolting was fine for me and I'm a wuss.

You’re probably right. We were basically set on going to Margalef so I’ve not really looked into the the french crags for this time of year. I know a lot are more alpine so will be pretty cold but probably fine in the sun.

Good problem to have really

[James Malloch]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay 🤞🏻

[jwi]

According to reports, absolutely every french person having a rope is in Saint Léger this week end. Should be fine starting from next week.

Céüse looks dry from photos I've seen. No snow hanging over the top bit. Isn't Céüse a bit tricky this time though? In the shade just very briefly before sunset (as the sun is relatively low on the horison) and a bit too hot in the sun? Should be better in a month, I would think.

Tons and tons of good crags to go at this time of the year.

[T_B]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay 🤞🏻

Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.

[James Malloch]

According to reports, absolutely every french person having a rope is in Saint Léger this week end. Should be fine starting from next week.

Céüse looks dry from photos I've seen. No snow hanging over the top bit. Isn't Céüse a bit tricky this time though? In the shade just very briefly before sunset (as the sun is relatively low on the horison) and a bit too hot in the sun? Should be better in a month, I would think.

Tons and tons of good crags to go at this time of the year.

It’s looking like we’ll head to St Leger then, thanks! I’ve been well keen for a re-visit since going there 7/8 years ago 👍🏻

[James Malloch]

 

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay 🤞🏻

Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.

Cheers. I’ve not seen any yet but heard of some around us. We’ll keep my eye out.

[spidermonkey09]

North Wall at SL is very good. Les clowns one of the best 7cs around. Brick hard but amazing. The 7as on the RH side are good as well. Worth checking out la baleine as well for shade. Jwi linked me the topo on here in a thread a few years back.

[Bradders]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay 🤞🏻

Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.

Cheers. I’ve not seen any yet but heard of some around us. We’ll keep my eye out.

Why so worried about the caterpillars? Surely you should simply put your dog on a lead and carry on with your plans.

There are plenty of other things in Font that don't mix well with dogs, and vice versa, after all.

[El Mocho]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Loads at Cuisiniere.

We’ve been climbing around Isatis today so probably loads here too then. Maybe it’s something to worry less about and just be more diligent about checking/walking on a lead until we get to the area we’re going to…

If you do end up heading further South in the summer also watch out for the fox tail grass, I seem to remember you have a spaniel and if it enjoys charging through the grass/undergrowth it could run through this stuff. It's essentially has a 1 way barbed head which roots into the fur, then flesh of the dog. We managed to dig 1 out of our boys paw but our girl had some in her ear and she needed to be sedated to get it out. Ours picked it up in the Ardeche when swimming in the river - grass on the bank and from then on we spotted it everywhere!

[T_B]

North Wall at SL is very good. Les clowns one of the best 7cs around. Brick hard but amazing. The 7as on the RH side are good as well. Worth checking out la baleine as well for shade. Jwi linked me the topo on here in a thread a few years back.

I thought St Leger north wall was crap! Maybe it’s cleaned up as this is some years ago (and admittedly I only did routes up to 7c). I don’t pretend I’ve climbed everywhere in France but I’m struggling to think of a worse crag? We were there in the summer though so maybe it was looking at all the good stuff in the sun. Anyways, isn’t there a massive cave now that’s shady? Is that La Baleine?

[abarro81]

Baleine is predominantly shady, and mostly better than the North Face from what I remember, but best from low/mid 7s upwards IIRC so may not fit the original parameters? Though I don't recall the North Face being amazing for 6s either (but not been for a long time). Anyway, lots in that general part of the world - you're not far from Venasque, Buoux, Lourmarin etc. Not miles if you want to head to Ceuse, Orpierre etc too, and not even that far from Verdon etc..

[Paul B]

I thought St Leger north wall was crap! Maybe it’s cleaned up as this is some years ago (and admittedly I only did routes up to 7c).

I'd agree, it felt like a poor man's Kilnsey in the way it climbed.

[James Malloch]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay 🤞🏻

Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.

Cheers. I’ve not seen any yet but heard of some around us. We’ll keep my eye out.

Why so worried about the caterpillars? Surely you should simply put your dog on a lead and carry on with your plans.

There are plenty of other things in Font that don't mix well with dogs, and vice versa, after all.

Life’s just so much easier when he’s off the lead (though we put him on for enforced rest). We’ve been going to quiet venues and he’s much happier pottering around or chasing a ball.

He is fine on the lead too but would prefer him off where possible. He mainly just slinks off for cuddles with someone or sits waiting for something to be thrown.

[James Malloch]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Loads at Cuisiniere.

We’ve been climbing around Isatis today so probably loads here too then. Maybe it’s something to worry less about and just be more diligent about checking/walking on a lead until we get to the area we’re going to…

If you do end up heading further South in the summer also watch out for the fox tail grass, I seem to remember you have a spaniel and if it enjoys charging through the grass/undergrowth it could run through this stuff. It's essentially has a 1 way barbed head which roots into the fur, then flesh of the dog. We managed to dig 1 out of our boys paw but our girl had some in her ear and she needed to be sedated to get it out. Ours picked it up in the Ardeche when swimming in the river - grass on the bank and from then on we spotted it everywhere!

Yeah he’s a spaniel, and that’s basically his favourite activity haha! Another thing to keep an eye out for, thanks! I think we’d struggle to get something out based on our attempts with a tick…

[James Malloch]

I’m going to be in Malgret del Mar (on the coast directly south of Girona) next week and we’ll have 3 full days to entertain myself (and the dog).

I’ve got the van and pads/sport kit, but will need to be back each evening.

Are there any good Climbing options in the area?

These are on 27Crags but no idea of the quality.

Savassona

La Comarca

Can Bartomeu
Can Camps

santa Blocona

Or are there any good rest day options? Day into Girona?

[Paul B]

Hell yes! Do you like eating?

La Fabrica Girona
+34 872 00 02 73
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CMDBmXjWZ3ymRsMH6

Restaurant Normal
+34 972 43 63 83
https://maps.app.goo.gl/71ULErLcqD9owi4S9
 
Plaça del Vi 7
+34 972 21 56 04
https://maps.app.goo.gl/MLRUzhk29q6szWcn8

König is good for drinks. You can get a very large bottle of Belgian beer for not a lot of money.

The cathedral is also very impressive.

[James Malloch]

Hell yes! Do you like eating?

La Fabrica Girona
+34 872 00 02 73
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CMDBmXjWZ3ymRsMH6

Restaurant Normal
+34 972 43 63 83
https://maps.app.goo.gl/71ULErLcqD9owi4S9
 
Plaça del Vi 7
+34 972 21 56 04
https://maps.app.goo.gl/MLRUzhk29q6szWcn8

König is good for drinks. You can get a very large bottle of Belgian beer for not a lot of money.

The cathedral is also very impressive.

Sounds right up my street, thanks! My wife will hate missing out (she’s at an AcroYoga festival). Or maybe I can check it out and go on the way to France after the festival!

Might have to get the train/bus rather than driving…

[Paul B]

I don't know if you like any kind of biking (road, gravel, MTB) but there's lots around that's very good.

[Fultonius]

Hell yes! Do you like eating?

La Fabrica Girona
+34 872 00 02 73
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CMDBmXjWZ3ymRsMH6

Restaurant Normal
+34 972 43 63 83
https://maps.app.goo.gl/71ULErLcqD9owi4S9
 
Plaça del Vi 7
+34 972 21 56 04
https://maps.app.goo.gl/MLRUzhk29q6szWcn8

König is good for drinks. You can get a very large bottle of Belgian beer for not a lot of money.

The cathedral is also very impressive.

Sounds right up my street, thanks! My wife will hate missing out (she’s at an AcroYoga festival). Or maybe I can check it out and go on the way to France after the festival!

Might have to get the train/bus rather than driving…

She's not going to the AcroYoga camp in Slovenia in July is she? My gf is going to that.

[SA Chris]

I read that as ArcoYoga festival, and thought why aren't you just climbing there

[James Malloch]

Hell yes! Do you like eating?

La Fabrica Girona
+34 872 00 02 73
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CMDBmXjWZ3ymRsMH6

Restaurant Normal
+34 972 43 63 83
https://maps.app.goo.gl/71ULErLcqD9owi4S9
 
Plaça del Vi 7
+34 972 21 56 04
https://maps.app.goo.gl/MLRUzhk29q6szWcn8

König is good for drinks. You can get a very large bottle of Belgian beer for not a lot of money.

The cathedral is also very impressive.

Sounds right up my street, thanks! My wife will hate missing out (she’s at an AcroYoga festival). Or maybe I can check it out and go on the way to France after the festival!

Might have to get the train/bus rather than driving…

She's not going to the AcroYoga camp in Slovenia in July is she? My gf is going to that.

Not planning to. I’ll have to be back in the U.K. by then (Brexit) but I think after this first one she’ll see how she enjoys it and maybe book onto more later in the trip.

Possibly going to one in September in Bristol as our local teacher is teaching there. Just depends whether I get a french visa sorted or not…

[James Malloch]

I read that as ArcoYoga festival, and thought why aren't you just climbing there

One of the next stops hopefully though!

[James Malloch]

I don't know if you like any kind of biking (road, gravel, MTB) but there's lots around that's very good.

Not much unfortunately. Enjoyed the odd time I’ve been but never found the time to fit it in more.