Helge - Chironico sounds really good too. I actually mean that when I put Cresciano. Is that also more of a late season place?I remember reading about Gimmelwald - I was really keen for a trip there but never got around to it. Is that a summer venue? Not heard of Vattis either but will put it on the list.
I've only been to Finale for a short trip but it was great, high quality rock but leave your ego at home because the grades are brutal. There's also the "other Finale" which is a bit further along, this is Val Pannavaire according to the link. Not been but if it's as good as the original then worth a visit.
Italian climbing looks really good and virtually unknown to British climbers (I may be biased as I love visiting the country anyhow). I was looking at the Versante Sud guides the other day and there's clearly loads to go at. Shame the guides are so eye wateringly expensive!https://www.versantesud.it/en/prod/guides/climb/
Quote from: James Malloch on January 05, 2022, 09:30:40 pmHelge - Chironico sounds really good too. I actually mean that when I put Cresciano. Is that also more of a late season place?I remember reading about Gimmelwald - I was really keen for a trip there but never got around to it. Is that a summer venue? Not heard of Vattis either but will put it on the list. Chironico is larger and higher altitude, but can be fine most of winter depending on conditions. There's a webcam you can check for snow. Cresciano is lower down and pretty much fine all winter. Please don't drive a long way to Vattis and then quote me on it. It's a nice place, but I was using it as an example - pretty much any transit route you take through Switzerland (Geneve/Swiss Jura, San Gottardo/Central Switzerland, San Bernardino/Rhine valley) will have lots of crags along the way, so if you have a van and want to take it slow and you could climb in a different place everyday. Most of them are listed on thecrag, feel free to write me for tips.Then there's a lot of crags at higher altitude that are more summer venues and less-crowded alternatives to places like Ceuse (e.g. Rawyl, Gastlosen, Gimmelwald, Göschenen). I haven't been to Austria very often but I'm sure it is similar there.Quote from: seankenny on January 05, 2022, 04:51:16 pmI've only been to Finale for a short trip but it was great, high quality rock but leave your ego at home because the grades are brutal. There's also the "other Finale" which is a bit further along, this is Val Pannavaire according to the link. Not been but if it's as good as the original then worth a visit. The grading in Finale isn't as harsh in climbs above 6c and in those areas/routes that have been developed more recently. Finale offers pretty much all styles, I remember Val Pennavaire to be mostly longer endurance climbs. When I was there, the aperitivo in the bar in Cisano sul Neva was substantial enough that you could skip dinner after three small beers. Quote from: seankenny on January 05, 2022, 04:51:16 pmItalian climbing looks really good and virtually unknown to British climbers (I may be biased as I love visiting the country anyhow). I was looking at the Versante Sud guides the other day and there's clearly loads to go at. Shame the guides are so eye wateringly expensive!https://www.versantesud.it/en/prod/guides/climb/You should have a look at the prices of the Swiss Alpine Club Guidebooks
James, another vote for Briancon in the summer, especially for routes in the 6s. Its not world class, but its a lot better than a lot of UK crags! I went a few years ago and really enjoyed Mont Dauphin (great 6s) and Rue de Masques. I would go back as there were other crags we didn't get to. My rule of thumb would be when you're using the guide, only consider the crags which get 5 stars as there are some scrappy examples as well!
Cheers for that. Is there a particular guide to look out for?
GdT also has Gorge du Jonte just around the corner - good for adventurous multi-pitch 6s and 7s, various aspects. La Dourbie also nearby to tarn. Some of the best routes I climbed on a trip to GdT were actually at La Dourbie!
Quote from: petejh on January 09, 2022, 08:04:39 pmGdT also has Gorge du Jonte just around the corner - good for adventurous multi-pitch 6s and 7s, various aspects. La Dourbie also nearby to tarn. Some of the best routes I climbed on a trip to GdT were actually at La Dourbie!Gorge du Jonte looked amazing, we were staying at the top of the plateau and drove through it on our way to Tarn every day. Couldn't persuade my partner to go there though.We went to GdT in May and it was roasting on some crags so it was a case of finding ones that weren't in the sun. On that basis I highly recommend this little crag for shady afternoons: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gorges_du_tarn-2077/#lamphi
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.
Is it really too early for Ceuse? I honestly don't know at this end of the season but I've been very late on in the year. The change was that instead of starting bloody early at Cascade and working your way rightwards you could do the opposite and climb in the sun with significantly less people about. Ceuse was also the first place Nat actually led outside (on the stuff to the left of Cascade). The bolts really aren't that bad IMO especially if you know where to look. That was back in 2007 so I'd suspect there's been more development.
Quote from: teestub on April 18, 2022, 06:25:58 pmWorth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.Loads at Cuisiniere.