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Where to go April to December (Read 13608 times)

Nibile

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#25 Re: Where to go April to December
January 06, 2022, 10:03:45 am
There's good Summer climbing, to my knowledge, in the Camaiore area in Tuscany. Steep hills close to the sea with lots of crags, even multipitch.
This page could help.
http://www.camaiorerockclimbing.it/

Helge

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#26 Re: Where to go April to December
January 06, 2022, 10:21:12 am
Helge - Chironico sounds really good too. I actually mean that when I put Cresciano. Is that also more of a late season place?

I remember reading about Gimmelwald - I was really keen for a trip there but never got around to it. Is that a summer venue? Not heard of Vattis either but will put it on the list.

Chironico is larger and higher altitude, but can be fine most of winter depending on conditions. There's a webcam you can check for snow. Cresciano is lower down and pretty much fine all winter.

Please don't drive a long way to Vattis and then quote me on it. It's a nice place, but I was using it as an example - pretty much any transit route you take through Switzerland (Geneve/Swiss Jura, San Gottardo/Central Switzerland, San Bernardino/Rhine valley) will have lots of crags along the way, so if you have a van and want to take it slow and you could climb in a different place everyday. Most of them are listed on thecrag, feel free to write me for tips.

Then there's a lot of crags at higher altitude that are more summer venues and less-crowded alternatives to places like Ceuse (e.g. Rawyl, Gastlosen, Gimmelwald, Göschenen). I haven't been to Austria very often but I'm sure it is similar there.

I've only been to Finale for a short trip but it was great, high quality rock but leave your ego at home because the grades are brutal. There's also the "other Finale" which is a bit further along, this is Val Pannavaire according to the link. Not been but if it's as good as the original then worth a visit.

The grading in Finale isn't as harsh in climbs above 6c and in those areas/routes that have been developed more recently. Finale offers pretty much all styles, I remember Val Pennavaire to be mostly longer endurance climbs. When I was there, the aperitivo in the bar in Cisano sul Neva was substantial enough that you could skip dinner after three small beers.
 
Italian climbing looks really good and virtually unknown to British climbers (I may be biased as I love visiting the country anyhow). I was looking at the Versante Sud guides the other day and there's clearly loads to go at. Shame the guides are so eye wateringly expensive!

https://www.versantesud.it/en/prod/guides/climb/

You should have a look at the prices of the Swiss Alpine Club Guidebooks ;)

Ged

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#27 Re: Where to go April to December
January 06, 2022, 10:51:45 am
As a example of one of the higher altitude Swiss summer sport crags, I though Simplondorff was ace

James Malloch

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#28 Re: Where to go April to December
January 06, 2022, 11:08:21 am
Helge - Chironico sounds really good too. I actually mean that when I put Cresciano. Is that also more of a late season place?

I remember reading about Gimmelwald - I was really keen for a trip there but never got around to it. Is that a summer venue? Not heard of Vattis either but will put it on the list.

Chironico is larger and higher altitude, but can be fine most of winter depending on conditions. There's a webcam you can check for snow. Cresciano is lower down and pretty much fine all winter.

Please don't drive a long way to Vattis and then quote me on it. It's a nice place, but I was using it as an example - pretty much any transit route you take through Switzerland (Geneve/Swiss Jura, San Gottardo/Central Switzerland, San Bernardino/Rhine valley) will have lots of crags along the way, so if you have a van and want to take it slow and you could climb in a different place everyday. Most of them are listed on thecrag, feel free to write me for tips.

Then there's a lot of crags at higher altitude that are more summer venues and less-crowded alternatives to places like Ceuse (e.g. Rawyl, Gastlosen, Gimmelwald, Göschenen). I haven't been to Austria very often but I'm sure it is similar there.

I've only been to Finale for a short trip but it was great, high quality rock but leave your ego at home because the grades are brutal. There's also the "other Finale" which is a bit further along, this is Val Pannavaire according to the link. Not been but if it's as good as the original then worth a visit.

The grading in Finale isn't as harsh in climbs above 6c and in those areas/routes that have been developed more recently. Finale offers pretty much all styles, I remember Val Pennavaire to be mostly longer endurance climbs. When I was there, the aperitivo in the bar in Cisano sul Neva was substantial enough that you could skip dinner after three small beers.
 
Italian climbing looks really good and virtually unknown to British climbers (I may be biased as I love visiting the country anyhow). I was looking at the Versante Sud guides the other day and there's clearly loads to go at. Shame the guides are so eye wateringly expensive!

https://www.versantesud.it/en/prod/guides/climb/

You should have a look at the prices of the Swiss Alpine Club Guidebooks ;)

Thanks for the extra info. Good to know about “thecrag” too. Not used that before.

spidermonkey09

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#29 Re: Where to go April to December
January 09, 2022, 11:10:16 am
James, another vote for Briancon in the summer, especially for routes in the 6s. Its not world class, but its a lot better than a lot of UK crags! I went a few years ago and really enjoyed Mont Dauphin (great 6s) and Rue de Masques. I would go back as there were other crags we didn't get to. My rule of thumb would be when you're using the guide, only consider the crags which get 5 stars as there are some scrappy examples as well!

Ged

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#30 Re: Where to go April to December
January 09, 2022, 11:30:29 am
James, another vote for Briancon in the summer, especially for routes in the 6s. Its not world class, but its a lot better than a lot of UK crags! I went a few years ago and really enjoyed Mont Dauphin (great 6s) and Rue de Masques. I would go back as there were other crags we didn't get to. My rule of thumb would be when you're using the guide, only consider the crags which get 5 stars as there are some scrappy examples as well!

Very good advice! I quite liked the concept of starring the crags rather than individual routes. And agree that some of the less than full star ones can be very average.

Around the vallouise area had some great stuff too.

James Malloch

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#31 Re: Where to go April to December
January 09, 2022, 01:58:17 pm
Cheers for that. Is there a particular guide to look out for?

jwi

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Ged

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#33 Re: Where to go April to December
January 09, 2022, 05:36:38 pm
Entraygue and Fessourier were both good I thought, and that was in the height of summer.

T_B

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#34 Re: Where to go April to December
January 09, 2022, 07:38:34 pm
Given that Gorges du Tarn is amazing and nowhere is optimum in August, I reckon it’s a pretty good option. The holds are generally positive pockets. I was there mid-late August - anything in the sun is out of course but I climbed at my max on sight and redpoint level and we weren’t getting up ridiculously early (well, not every day). It’s also relatively quiet by the end of August. Cooling off in the river is lush and if your dog likes water, it’ll love it.

I’ve also been to Annot in August. Honestly I didn’t do much at Annot itself (my wife bouldered and I climbed early doors on a nearby lime sport crag). Annot is shady and seemed to get the breeze. Not far from Verdon which also has single pitch shady routes on some sectors.

None of these places are optimum in August, but then where is? You can go semi-Alpine but then have to contend with thunderstorms!

petejh

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#35 Re: Where to go April to December
January 09, 2022, 08:04:39 pm
GdT also has Gorge du Jonte just around the corner - good for adventurous multi-pitch 6s and 7s, various aspects.
La Dourbie also nearby to tarn. Some of the best routes I climbed on a trip to GdT were actually at La Dourbie!

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#36 Re: Where to go April to December
January 09, 2022, 08:47:21 pm
Obviously the best solution to Impossible August is to go walking in the Karakoram and come back reinvigorated in September. Or if not reinvigorated, at least your power to weight ratio won’t have taken a hit. I would have suggested doing the Incredible Hulk or something similar but you only stipulated sports climbing originally.

I’m not being entirely facetious: the opportunity to take long stretches off work doesn’t come up that much in a life, for most of us. Commitments have a habit of stealing up on you and borrowing at the moment is cheap.


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#37 Re: Where to go April to December
January 09, 2022, 09:22:26 pm
I vaguely agree, when you have big chunks of time it is nice to go places you can't go for a relatively quick hit! 77 hour drive from font to Bishkek. Just sayin. Might want to keep your peepers on Kazakhstan like...

James Malloch

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#38 Re: Where to go April to December
January 10, 2022, 10:42:35 pm
Gorges du Tarn could be perfect in August then. To be honest I’d rather too warm than too cold anyway. Dog would love the river, as would we!

Funny you say about contending with thunder storms. My first trip to the Ceuse was when I was at uni. Obviously going to the south of France in the height of summer meant I didn’t need a jacket. I obviously arrived to a deluge - instant mistake.

Sean/Huw - we originally planned to go further away - to Canada/New Zealand - but the dog has put a stop to that. The intention was still to leave him with someone for a few months and do a trip like that, but a year or so in I’m not sure I could manage it now…

Though huw’s suggestion is drivable at least  :great:

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#39 Re: Where to go April to December
January 11, 2022, 01:49:26 pm
GdT also has Gorge du Jonte just around the corner - good for adventurous multi-pitch 6s and 7s, various aspects.
La Dourbie also nearby to tarn. Some of the best routes I climbed on a trip to GdT were actually at La Dourbie!

Gorge du Jonte looked amazing, we were staying at the top of the plateau and drove through it on our way to Tarn every day. Couldn't persuade my partner to go there though.

We went to GdT in May and it was roasting on some crags so it was a case of finding ones that weren't in the sun. On that basis I highly recommend this little crag for shady afternoons: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gorges_du_tarn-2077/#lamphi

James Malloch

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#40 Re: Where to go April to December
January 12, 2022, 10:41:43 pm
GdT also has Gorge du Jonte just around the corner - good for adventurous multi-pitch 6s and 7s, various aspects.
La Dourbie also nearby to tarn. Some of the best routes I climbed on a trip to GdT were actually at La Dourbie!

Gorge du Jonte looked amazing, we were staying at the top of the plateau and drove through it on our way to Tarn every day. Couldn't persuade my partner to go there though.

We went to GdT in May and it was roasting on some crags so it was a case of finding ones that weren't in the sun. On that basis I highly recommend this little crag for shady afternoons: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gorges_du_tarn-2077/#lamphi

Have to say, that place looks amazing!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=332427

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#41 Re: Where to go April to December
January 12, 2022, 11:32:56 pm
I can’t believe nobody has recommended the Verdon, it stretches the sport climbing definition a bit but if not now then when? Which brings me to my main point, if you have three months surely this is an opportunity to explore some of the areas you wouldn’t otherwise get to, you might end up at some duff areas but if that forces you to have a few days off then it might be no bad thing, recharge the psych and all that. You’ll always have opportunities to go to Siurana etc.but you’ll have a job persuading people to give up their 2 week holiday to explore the crags of Macedonia etc.
Regarding some of the places mentioned I thought Tarn was better than Léger (and even Buoux although the villages around Buoux are lovely). Osp is ok but not much shade

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#42 Re: Where to go April to December
April 18, 2022, 05:20:38 pm
We’re in Font now (best trip I’ve had here so far!) and we’re wondering about whether to skip Spain given we’re likely to spend the autumn/wonder there. Also to cut down on the driving as we’re hoping to go to the Frankenjura and they’re pretty far apart…

After font we planned to go to Gorges du Tarn but have been out off a little by some friends telling us about the processionary caterpillars which are really bad for dogs (apparently they have been everywhere in recent years to the point events are getting cancelled).

As such we are thinking about maybe checking some other french sport crags out before going to the Frankenjura via Finale/Arco/Mello and maybe some Swiss bouldering.

Would anywhere in France (ideally without caterpillars) be any good in a few weeks time. I guess it’s a bit early for Ceuse? Maybe alfroide, briancon, gorges du jonte?

Ideally looking for somewhere with a good range of low 6 to mid 7 routes…

SA Chris

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#43 Re: Where to go April to December
April 18, 2022, 05:31:23 pm
Sisteron or Orpierre?

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#44 Re: Where to go April to December
April 18, 2022, 06:15:19 pm
St Leger, Briancon area, the other crags near Gap like Sisteron and Orpierre would all be fine now. Might be hot at some of them if you get the timings wrong. Ceuse might also be fine but doesn't really fit your other requirements of closely spaced bolts and steady grades, especially in the 6s.

Ailefroide and Briancon are good but not world class. In your position I'd go to St Leger.

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#45 Re: Where to go April to December
April 18, 2022, 06:25:58 pm
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

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#46 Re: Where to go April to December
April 18, 2022, 06:36:51 pm
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Loads at Cuisiniere.

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#47 Re: Where to go April to December
April 18, 2022, 07:09:10 pm
Is it really too early for  Ceuse? I honestly don't know at this end of the season but I've been very late on in the year. The change was that instead of starting bloody early at Cascade and working your way rightwards you could do the opposite and climb in the sun with significantly less people about. Ceuse was also the first place Nat actually led outside (on the stuff to the left of Cascade). The bolts really aren't that bad IMO especially if you know where to look. That was back in 2007 so I'd suspect there's been more development.

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#48 Re: Where to go April to December
April 18, 2022, 07:19:17 pm
Is it really too early for  Ceuse? I honestly don't know at this end of the season but I've been very late on in the year. The change was that instead of starting bloody early at Cascade and working your way rightwards you could do the opposite and climb in the sun with significantly less people about. Ceuse was also the first place Nat actually led outside (on the stuff to the left of Cascade). The bolts really aren't that bad IMO especially if you know where to look. That was back in 2007 so I'd suspect there's been more development.

I thought the bolting was broadly fine too tbh. Its not grid bolted though, its well bolted!

James Malloch

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#49 Re: Where to go April to December
April 18, 2022, 08:09:12 pm
Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Loads at Cuisiniere.

We’ve been climbing around Isatis today so probably loads here too then. Maybe it’s something to worry less about and just be more diligent about checking/walking on a lead until we get to the area we’re going to…

 

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