[Wellsy]

Today Bid and I did a problem mantling the bottom of the big slab that lies going up the hill to where Green Room Slap is. The problem goes directly from the mantle to the top (everything to the left of the crack, and the arete, is out). Just wanted to check before I got ahead of myself with a name and a grade whether this has been done before?



(Apologies for the messy attempt and top out... I found it bloody hard!)

[edshakey]

That slab is like some sort of Ames room illusion

[Wellsy]

Just an eternity of scrittle, stretching off into the sky

[webbo]

You might be the first to climb it like that, but it’s just a bad way of climbing that bit of rock. I.e avoiding the holds.

[Wellsy]

Seems a bit harsh. I don't think that's the case tbh. We used everything on the slab/lip and felt that it was the best form the problem could take. I also enjoyed it quite a lot and felt like it was a good problem.

[webbo]

Why not use the crack or break all the way. Eliminates are good fun to climb but it doesn’t mean they all need a name and writing up. When you start saying it was the best form the problem could take, it’s a case if only that ledge, crack, block wasn’t there.

[Wellsy]

There's loads of stuff out at the peak that's got plenty of eliminates in it. 3 star stuff saying you can't use this wall to stem (Breakfast), you've got to stay off this block cos it's not in (countless examples), the arete isn't in (Little Roof, even though you can easily reach it), etc. I doubt you'd get much from the crack or arete anyway, we played around with it but felt like this was the best way to go. The footblock is also miles away (not clear due to camera perspective I'll grant you) and of zero use, plus its a different bit of rock.

If you don't like the problem fine but I just posted this to see if it'd been done by anyone else. I stand by it as a good problem and you're welcome to go and try it and give your opinion, but just saying its bad seems a bit uncalled for?

[webbo]

Fine, name it and grade it and stick it on the UKC logbook.

[Wellsy]

Right well that was what I was going to do  but I wanted to see if it had ever been done first, which feels pretty reasonable. As it happens appears not thus far.

[webbo]

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31163.0.html

[BID]

I don't think the crack is particularly useful. I tried to use it extensively when we were working it.

And going fully onto the left aretey thing with both hands is simply just a wildly different line.

I'm not sure this even is an eliminate at the grade if you want to do anything that approaches that line. I have a deep personal hate for eliminates and had a good ole try and breaking it.

The tone of this whole thread is making me sad

[Bonjoy]

Hiya. Bad news (kind of) is this is Special Measures (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30398.0.html). I did it from a low sitter on the left via some toe hooking. Good news (kind of) is I agree the no crack thing is just the way it climbs. Didn't feel like it would have helped for that move and I didn't use it either.

[BID]

Hiya. Bad news (kind of) is this is Special Measures (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30398.0.html). I did it from a low sitter on the left via some toe hooking. Good news (kind of) is I agree the no crack thing is just the way it climbs. Didn't feel like it would have helped for that move and I didn't use it either.

Brilliant work. I guessed you might have done it. It was the main reason for putting it onto here - probably Bonjoy has done this.

Though your grading of that is brutal unless out beta is (and it might be) trash. It felt harder than 6C from standing :D

Cheers sir

[User deactivated.]

I was about to say, good luck finding rock in the Peak that Bonjoy hasn't touched yet!

[Bonjoy]

I remember using that nice boss feature but I can't recall much else about the move.
I have looked at quite a few peak rocks, it's true. Still got shit loads left to touch on 'the list' though.

[Wellsy]

Hahaha, this is why I wanted to check!

I would humbly submit that what I was doing on that video felt very solidly harder than any 6C I've done (and most of the 7As in fact!). That said it is not really material, I very much enjoyed the climbing! And I'm glad to hear our instincts regarding the most natural way to go were not massively off.

Very good. Thanks for the update. Much appreciated.

[Bonjoy]

Wouldn't be the first time I've been out by grades! The gradometer gets particularly out of wack if I spend to long only on new things.

[Wellsy]

Well I have chucked my opinion in, I'm sure it'll all come out in the wash eventually

[Fiend]

How does it compare difficulty-wise to Bumlog Millionaire??

P.S. Sorry that you just got Bonjoyed 

[Wellsy]

Errrr well since you asked

Physically it demands much more from you than Bumlog IMO. Technically I'd say the crux move of Bumlog is harder but the rest of it isn't and is maybe easier. Keeping the right heel on to do the palm down was very tricky in my experience; that heel didn't like to stay on.

Bumlog is a floaty dynamic move to get the grade, which is kinda my anti-style (for now!). This is very much more my style and was kinda maximal. It is harder than Bad Lip, as context for something done recently.

Then again I accept that I may be wrong/weak/silly/etc.

Also it is fine, it is the way of things :D