[remus]

The thread of the year! Obviously a few days left of 2021 but the forecast looks rubbish and this thread is always a great way to get the psyche going.

For those new to this, it's about picking out your highlights of the year. The usual categories are listed below but freestyling is very much encouraged.

Top three boulder problems, UK
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new routes/prolems put up
Top Spankings

Past year inspiration:
Best of 2006
Best of 2007
Best of 2008
Best of 2009
Best of 2010
Best of 2011
Best of 2012
Best of 2013
Best of 2014
Best of 2015
Best of 2016
Best of 2017
Best of 2018
Best of 2019
Best of 2020

[Coops_13]

Top three boulder problems, US

Airwolf, Indian Creek
Lives up to all expectations, five star line, five star climbing. Best boulder I have ever done (and likely will ever do). Stunning.

Return of the Jedi, Klettergarden
Mega-classic on perfect Gneiss. Potentially the best V8 in Colorado. Brutally cold but managed to sneak up it before the season closed

Pandemic, Joe's Valley
Not quite as good as the other two on this list but great fun with a topical name

Highlight video I made below:


Top boulder problem, UK

Morris Minor
First trip to UK in two years, managed a trip up to Leeds. Couldn't really climb due to injury but went to a few crags with mates including a Stag-themed challenge

Top Spanking

Injuries
Was going well until a full A2 rupture on 31-Jan. This was followed by my longest run of injury-free climbing for a few years with some great climbing and a training period. Mid November I received my latest injury (damage to some ligaments between my metacarpals is the diagnosis)...

[Ross Barker]

Happy new year everyone, certainly been an interesting one...

Didn't get any sport done but a bit of trad amongst the foam pad parties and green tick wanking.

Top three boulder problems, UK

Safe Bet, Burbage North - Really enjoyed this one, completed with an inelegant mantel
Wherever I Lay My Hat, Gallt yr Ogof - Really novel move with the gaston and kneebar, took a proper bit of trying hard to get it in a session
Reckless, Kitty's Crag - Fabulous roof moves on decent holds to a flashy campus finish

Honourable mention to Pig In A Pokey, Buckstones Edge with the mint toehook spinny thing!

Top three trad routes/solos UK

All the ones on the first buttress at Burbage North - Just a good bit of fun, isn't it?
Little Chamonix, Shepherd's Crag - A nice alt-lead with a mate, a bit of benightment near the top.
Chilica, Thorn Crag - Highballable but done sans pads as they were under some other people. Enjoyable smeary arete-y climbing!

Top three new routes/problems put up

All at a new esoteric Churnet-esque outcrop in North Shropshire. Semi-secret, very close to someone's house but no issues have arisen thus far.

Finger Swinger, Brockers (7A+) - Hardest line (so far), was chuffed to find myself at the top jug. Second ascensionist seemed to like it as well
French Embassy, Brockers (6B+) - One of the first lines put up, follows a line of weakness up some nicely textured crimps.
Same as above but without feet (7A) - This is all I've done this year as far as FAs go, I think?

Top Spankings

Rigpa, Nesscliffe - Thought I was in with a chance of getting this before a bad pulley strain in March, then summer came and it was too hot to be operating so close to the limit. Winter arrived and I had one good session but been struggling with conditions and motivation since. Might have another few sessions before spring but I'll try not to pressure myself.
Severus Snape, Back Bowden Doors - Almost a Top 3, but poor tactics and being several days on led to an unfortunate flapper which sealed the deal on me not completing it. Absolutely getting on it upon my return to the county!
One Flew Over The Cuckoo's Nest, Creigiau'r Garth - Only tried it twice. First go led me to spitting distance of the top lip, but I got tired and scared and backed off. Second go not quite so close, and then we determined it was too hot and left. Will return...

[kingholmesy]

I’ve been looking forward to this thread for a few days.

Best three XSs

Cushion Man  A first ascent team of Fowler, Sustad and Turnball hints at what lays ahead.  The first pitch is relatively tame. The second features surprising hard climbing on soft, sooty rock leading to a pull through a roof. The third pitch is a rising traverse, walking along a band of shale with disintegrating handholds and no gear for the first 20 metres. Utterly terrifying.

Morgana’s Mead  A gob-smacking line up the middle of one of Cornwall’s biggest, badest cliffs.  The best first ascent I have done.  Pegs and warthogs are essential, but the route picks out a line of surprisingly good rock and I would readily recommend it to anyone who is into these sorts of things.

Bird Brain  A tidal traverse in, three pitches of slightly decaying rock, and a 50m free-hanging abseil in the dark to escape off the island again - what’s not to love?

Other good (more conventional) stuff

Touch The Devil  This E4 at Pentire Point, a short walk from the Great Wall, is absolutely fantastic.  30 metres of hard, sustained bridging up an immaculate clean cut corner, with good gear all the way and the crux at the top.  Ace.

Rock-A-Bye  Hidden away in the Cot Valley near Cape Cornwall, this is a great highball.  E5 in old money, it’s around 6C+ with a stack of mats.  Unusually I was out with a big Cornish crew and we put up some new problems, so this venue now has a bunch of good mid-grade bouldering in a beautiful setting by the sea.

[edshakey]

Not a bad year. Being based in Edinburgh til September, without a car, definitely hindered my ability to get out, but no real frustrations, got up to some fun stuff all things considered.

Top UK trad:

Definitely didn't get back into full flow, despite it being the main discipline for the year. Generally just took it easy whenever we headed out - kidding myself that I was out of shape, when really it was probably just in my head.

The Groove, Polney Crag. Was just really good! Nice day, nice crag, great route. Great crag for those heading to/from cairngorms and want some roadside trad - but you probably all knew that already...

The Edge, Loudoun Hill. A bit green, but can't fault the line - amazing feature. The scramble approach was a bit tricky (self inflicted mostly), but the climb more than made up for it, great stuff.

Fools Gold, Bus Stop Quarry. Just glad to get back on the slate at least once this year. Best of the routes we managed in a quick visit, having never been to that quarry before, and it was really good fun. Need to plan to get back for more slate generally, I love a good slab so bit of a no-brainer really.

Top UK boulders:

Not done a massive amount this year, but some were decent.

The Pocket, Langdale Boulders. Great end to a weekend with friends - was nice to be back doing trips like this after a long lonely winter and spring. Baking hot but managed it just before we had to leave, very satisfying.

Otley Wall, Caley. Glad to manage on my first trip to Caley, topping out just as the rain came over. A nice way to kick off the move to Yorkshire too.

Roadside Arête, Clach an Fhion. Slipped off the top a few days prior, managed to flop my way up before our ferry home. Extremely inelegant, but a nice surprise after expecting not to be back for years, as opposed to 48 hrs!

Other personal categories

Most surprising crag (good):

The Mushroom on Arran: The photos really don't do it justice! Absolutely incredible bit of rock, thoroughly unexpected when I started walking towards it.

Most surprising crag (bad):

Roslin Glen: Even the popular routes involved large amounts of grass, soil, trees, etc. And the access to some buttresses was a bit of a nightmare. Maybe after the summer it would be less green, but I can't see it getting less overgrown! I'm open to anyone wanting to defend it though - is it just esoteric, or am I missing something!?!

Best belay:

Banana Wall, Bowden Doors: Entirely made of heather. At a loss as to what else you could use really!

Most ridiculous attempt at a route:

Cracked Actor, Trowbarrow: Waited all day for my partner to sleep off her nightshift in the car. Had a nice walk, and a couple of solos. Then when she woke up, we began and by half height it was pitch black. Didn't have a headtorch I could climb in, so had to bail. Can't imagine many people have been benighted unexpectedly at Trowbarrow!

Really enjoyed thinking about the year like this. Also, definitely useful for thinking of stuff for the aims thread for next year!

[yetix]

Top 3 Peak:
Jason's Problem - hardest thing on paper I've done in the Peak

Lovine - hardest and most satisfying problem I've done for me in the Peak

Amarna - Churnet is the peak right? Really doing this one, the moves were really cool when it came together


Top 3 Wales:
Jerry's Roof Local Start - much worse start than the Tourist tick but one I had left undone for a couple years, did it first go of the day after climbing at Rhiw Goch beforehand in what was a really lovely day with my GF

Badgers in the Mist - found this brick, ratty left hand holds are something I generally struggle on which made this satisfying for sure.

Ferrino sans - eliminate but hardest thing I've done all year


Top 3 Lakes:
Hell Boy - couldn't do one of the moves on this, decided to go from the ground and somehow pulled it out of nowhere

Voodoo Fix - lovely setting, cool moves and great company.

Hasslehof Variation - sharp as fuck, especially when crimping on footholds due to a hold break but really enjoyed the moves and looking forward to getting on Knight Rider once it's repaired.


Top 3 Abroad:
Simba - one of the coolest lines I've done

Aben Razin - stunning bloc, spooky top

Futuros Clasicos - probably the hardest thing I did in Spain, first repeat after the foothold had crumbled and the heel beta wasn't possible, the first 3 moves were super tricky to link together!


Top 3 Spankings:
Flick of the Wrist, 5 sessions in 2020 and 3 more in 2021 and I'm no closer to doing this, I do all the moves every session but somehow fail to link them

Impropa Opera Sit, must have had 10 sessions on this, I can do the sit move every go, same for the stand but linking it is a different issue all together, it obliterates my skin, so I only get 5ish decent goes really too. And then my skin needs 10 days before the pulps good enough again for it.

La Fuente - fell off the finishing hold somehow and never got there again. Punter!

Really good year in all. No new injuries just managing ongoing ones is a bonus, pretty weak atm from a year just on rock, but enjoying getting back into training for the first time in way over a year

[RobK]

My favourite thread of the year, keep 'em coming!

Top 3 Routes:

Cerberus 8a - Devil's Gorge. The best route at the Gorge for me, taking in the best bits of two classics with some wild moves in a great position. Probably 7c+ if you're fit. I was not.

Out of Body Experience 7c+/8a - Dinbren. Tried this as I wanted to get on something less travelled having done a lot of the classics and as such was not expecting much. Ended up being one of the best things I've done up there.

Tufa King Hard 6c - Chapel Head. Done on a hot summer's day, this was the closest I got to Spain this year.

Top 3 Boulders:

Ultimate Warrior 7B+ - Cwm Pennant. Perfection.

Pig In A Pokey 7A+ - Buckstones Edge. Outrageous fun.

Rock Atrocity 7C - Parisella's. Gets on the list less for the climbing and more for the feeling of finally matching the finishing hold. Why anyone would ever want to add more moves into this I do not know. Sadists.

Top 3 Spankings:

Mussel Beach 8a - LPT. If this doesn't go next year I might give up climbing.

Space Race 7b+ - Malham. OK, I was third day on and my skin and toes were on fire. But I maintain that this must have been a typo in the guide and it's actually 8b+.

Ramp Up 7B+ - Bickerton. Great line at a little gem of a crag. Got one move from the top on the first session and that is where my high point stayed.

Honourable Mention:

Hangover 77 E1 5b - St Govan's Head. My first 'proper' trad lead and one I won't forget in a hurry.

[SA Chris]

Hangover 77 E1 5b - St Govan's Head. My first 'proper' trad lead and one I won't forget in a hurry.

Wait, what? Like first ever?

[SA Chris]

Roslin Glen: Even the popular routes involved large amounts of grass, soil, trees, etc. And the access to some buttresses was a bit of a nightmare. Maybe after the summer it would be less green, but I can't see it getting less overgrown! I'm open to anyone wanting to defend it though - is it just esoteric, or am I missing something!?!

You are the first person I have heard of actually persevering and getting on a route. We went for a look an decided it all looked a bit too grim to even get a rope out. I expect post pandemic it's even more overgrown.

[RobK]

Hangover 77 E1 5b - St Govan's Head. My first 'proper' trad lead and one I won't forget in a hurry.

Wait, what? Like first ever?

My first ever was about a month earlier. This was maybe my third or fourth, but the first that wasn't a 10m HVS and the first that didn't just feel like a solo whilst placing the odd bit of gear. Only had the briefest of Pembroke experiences but very much keen for more.

[SA Chris]

OK, funny how you just make assumptions about people's path through climbing.

[Ross Barker]

Ramp Up 7B+ - Bickerton. Great line at a little gem of a crag. Got one move from the top on the first session and that is where my high point stayed.

That last sequence up the arête is deceptively hard. I'd be keen for a session in spring if there's a decent dry spell.

[RobK]

OK, funny how you just make assumptions about people's path through climbing.

Modern way init  I'm just a plastic puller who got lost one day.

Ramp Up 7B+ - Bickerton. Great line at a little gem of a crag. Got one move from the top on the first session and that is where my high point stayed.

That last sequence up the arête is deceptively hard. I'd be keen for a session in spring if there's a decent dry spell.

Keen, you can show me the Reckless sequence too.

[edshakey]

Roslin Glen: Even the popular routes involved large amounts of grass, soil, trees, etc. And the access to some buttresses was a bit of a nightmare. Maybe after the summer it would be less green, but I can't see it getting less overgrown! I'm open to anyone wanting to defend it though - is it just esoteric, or am I missing something!?!

You are the first person I have heard of actually persevering and getting on a route. We went for a look an decided it all looked a bit too grim to even get a rope out. I expect post pandemic it's even more overgrown.

After the effort of getting a bus out there, and then getting lost on the walk in (Lowland Outcrops' hand drawn topos don't lend themselves to hidden crags), we certainly weren't going to leave without at least attempting something. But the first route sums it up really: climbing decent rock to half height, then scrabbling through a mud filled crack, dangling on a tree branch as the only useable 'hold', and then pulling on clumps of grass for a good few metres, while almost in range of decking due to a lack of soil-free placements. HVS, Half Very Shit?

Like I said, this was supposedly one of the good routes

[Stabbsy]

Another year where I've struggled to get any consistent time on a rope. I get a lot of time here and there for short sessions, but it rarely seems efficient to get ropes out so I've tended to boulder. The downside of this is that when I do get ropes out, I'm massively rusty and climb like an idiot! Likely to be another few years before I can get the consistency back on the ropes, so just enjoying the occasional easy day alongside bouldering.

Top 3 Problems

• Faith LH/RH, Roche Abbey - Not sure it would be possible to have two more markedly different experiences on two problems so close together! Struggled like anything on the "easier" RH, multiple sessions, no idea what was going on but still felt hard to me when I did it. Jumped on the LH straight after and took 2 goes. Both good problems and grabbed from days of appalling conditions in the Peak, driving through heavy rain to pop out in sunshine in Maltby.
• Tight Hole, Roche Abbey - Hardly a king line, but really enjoyed this. Very eliminate, but if you can ignore that it climbs really well (for me at least). Done on the same day as the two Faiths, slowly getting nearer over a few goes before realising how to hold one of the holds to make it work.
• Last Stand, Anston - Another one of those "harder than it should have been" problems. I'm either doing something wrong or it doesn't suit me. Again, a couple of sessions then it clicked one evening and finished it off.

Top 3 Traverses

• Zippy's Traverse, Stanage - One of those problems I've wanted to try for a while, but I've never been one to join the crowds on the send train. Went up there in the spring on one of the first evening sessions of the year, generally quiet but Zippy's was busy as usual so went elsewhere. Had a good few hours trying various things and getting ready to leave. Steve decides to go have a quick blast on Zippy's before we go (he's done it before) and cruises across. I get persuaded to stick my shoes on and have a crack and surprise myself by getting to the flakes before nearly falling off the finish when my foot pops. All good in the end and glad I'd never joined the crowds before now.
• All the Way, Cucklett Delf - One of those venues that's a lot more appealing when you're not on your own. Visited and left without pulling on a couple of years ago, but a different proposition with a couple of mates before the trees are in leaf as it gets a bit of morning sun. I imagine the 7C version of this had some eliminate rules or some of the holds have cleaned up, but an enjoyable shuffle nonetheless.
• Bone Cruncher, Back Tor - More about a great day out than the problem specifically, I think. First time I'd met my best man for ages due to lockdown. Put the world to rights on the walk-in and then had a cracking day, first time climbing there despite having run past more times than I'd care to remember. In his usual style, Matt claims he's not been climbing much before cruising across straight after me.

Top 32 Trad Routes

As mentioned above, opportunities have been limited! Only two days out that weren't soloing on the grit so one from each of those.

• Koh-i-Noor, Agden Rocher - First trip to Agden and this was probably the pick for me. Took a few routes to get my head into it, but started to enjoy it more towards the end of the day. Looks like the crux is going to be higher up than it is when it's not chalked, but one of those routes where you commit and there's suddenly a massive edge that you didn't spot from below.
• Soft Times, Staden - I love climbing on the main wall at Staden. Took a day off work while my daughter was in nursery, so got a full day out with a mate from uni. Running out of routes to do now without delving into esoterica, but this one was new and great climbing despite being a bit of a filler-in.

Top 30 Sport Routes

Very little jumps out. Rubicon was maybe the pick of a very limited bunch, plus a surprisingly good F6a+ at Harpur Hill that could almost have been continental.

Top 31 "First Ascents"

• PiL, Smallfield - Probably not a first ascent as it's blindingly obvious but really good climbing, leading with your feet and then switching in the middle. Added advantage of not being as height dependant as the rest of Smallfield's problems.

Top 3 Races

• Thurlstone Chase - I'd struggle to call this one a fell race, not that hilly and too much road running. Great run out though and, despite the organiser planning to send us off in waves, the first mass start I'd been in post lockdown. Found myself in second place coming towards the finish after passing at least one guy who I shouldn't have been anywhere near on the last descent. Somehow contrived to drop from 2nd to 5th on the last mini climb when they all kicked and I didn't/couldn't. Reminded me why I love racing!
• Sheffield Way Relay - Bit of an esoteric choice! It would surprise me if a lot of the Sheffield folk on here are even aware of the Sheffield Way. However, one of the local clubs organise a relay event round it every year, 50ish miles split into 5 legs, each run in pairs. I seem to have become the leg 1 specialist for the club having run it for the last 4 years with different people each time. Don Valley to Greno Woods, so fast and flat along the canal for the first half with the majority of the height gain in the last 2 miles. Pretty narrow along canal towpaths at the start, so we went pretty aggressively for the first km, took the lead and didn't see another soul once we left the canal. Most importantly, got a big lead on Dark Peak who then nibbled away at it in every other leg and ended up finishing a couple of minutes behind us after leg 5.
• Fell Relays, Tebay - Undoubtedly the best event of the year. Bit of team juggling late in the day meant I was on the nav leg with a guy who, by his own admission, doesn't do navigation. He's also way faster than me so I was feeling a bit of pressure! As it turned out, the nav was reasonably straightforward due to decent visibility and, where there were route choices to be made, I made the right ones and gained us a few places. Was way out of my comfort zone on the last descent, but managed to hold it together. Finished a respectable 30th in the end.

[AJM]

Another year in which I am going to have to create some pretty arbitrary categories to be able to write down more than one thing. We didn’t manage to go abroad, and I got very little roped climbing done, so it’s mostly a set of boulder problems from different places with some dws and routes thrown in

Best three YorkshireEarl and Lakes boulder problems

• Rat au vin, Earl
• Hanging Groove, Earl https://www.instagram.com/p/CPrE1EnDBY7/?utm_medium=copy_link
• Picnic Sarcastic, Bowderstone https://www.instagram.com/andyjmorris1/p/CP5ogf3oWHw/?utm_medium=copy_link

We had a few days in Yorkshire over the May half term week, staying quite near Earl, which was also in best condition given the end of the second winter of early May and the arrival of some glorious sunshine. 2 short evening hits, glorious sunsets, and some cracking problems. I would give an honourable mention here to the John Dunne Slap which was also excellent fun and very much not my thing so quite satisfying.
After Yorkshire we went to the Lakes. Picnic Sarcastic was great fun pulling on good holds - the stand went pretty quickly and I had some good goes on the sit as well which was encouraging (7B would be a new grade for me, ignoring a route length linkup from days gone by).

Best three southern boulders

• Drifter sit start, St Aldhelms - St Aldhelms is where I went last year when lockdown first ended and I did the same again this year, partly because it’s got some nice problems and partly because it has such a great position. The problem climbs the left arete of a wide crack, which sounds a bit rubbish/eliminate, but the moves are fun. I got told the sitter was rubbish but with an interesting knee bar to get the hands above the roof I thought it was pretty neat and made for a more complete line https://www.instagram.com/andyjmorris1/p/COlF9FeDpVE/?utm_medium=copy_link
• Liquid Sun - my big summer siege. Took me more sessions than Picnic Sarcastic took goes, I think! Not really a problem for the summer but not much in Dorset is and it’s a problem that rewards persistence since there’s a bunch of micro-knack to it. Really satisfying to get this done, hardest thing I’ve done in ages, really pleased to see it come together https://www.instagram.com/p/CTNRCqEjKct/?utm_medium=copy_link

I’m actually not sure I have a good third one. I repeated some of the lovely stuff on Dartmoor, so could pick that as symbolic of a great day out, or Southern Soul because it’s pretty cool (albeit in style very much a pale imitation of liquid sun), but there’s not one thing which really stands out above others.

Top three dws/roped routes

• Suspension Flake, Hound Tor. One of the highlights of an excellent day out with Duncan, Hazel and Al - a bunch of the easy fun bouldering, Suspension Flake which has been on the list for ages, Aviation in the same vein, and then bouldering at bonehill until our skin gave way.
• Water Wings, Cave Hole. I didn’t get that much hard done on dws this year, mostly failing on projects, but I did fill in a few gaps in my cv and tick off this fun photogenic bouldery number
• Victims of Fashion, Battleship. Ok, so I didn’t actually get up this but it was the first day I tried to take my son (4) out with my on a sport climbing day and he was immaculately well behaved so this and the clutch of 6as I did represent something of a milestone in my hopes of getting some roped climbing done again…..

Top three spankings

• Mark of the Beast, Lulworth - a bunch of my friends started trying this over the summer, which finally gave me the opportunity. I only managed to give it about two goes and they were pretty rubbish - I’ve been telling myself the star looks scary for years and so I climbed it like it was scary, wanted to be super static and so on on everything, and therefore basically didn’t get anywhere
• Portland dws - I had three projects in mind from last year and didn’t get any of them done. Last year I got lucky with a regular weekday morning crew which gave me lots of opportunities, but I didn’t manage that this year. One of them was wet all summer, one I made ok progress on but no tick and one I climbed like a spanner on.
• Morrels wall, Almscliff. Ok, so it was hot summer grit, but of all the things I found hard and failed on this year this had by far the lowest grade!

[Fiend]

Roslin Glen: Even the popular routes involved large amounts of grass, soil, trees, etc. And the access to some buttresses was a bit of a nightmare. Maybe after the summer it would be less green, but I can't see it getting less overgrown! I'm open to anyone wanting to defend it though - is it just esoteric, or am I missing something!?!

You are the first person I have heard of actually persevering and getting on a route. We went for a look an decided it all looked a bit too grim to even get a rope out. I expect post pandemic it's even more overgrown.

I definitely did Centre Line on Jumbo's Bum Buttress and tried Forty Twa too but backed off that, mostly due to the boldness. The highlight of the day was walking behind a fox on the way back, for many metres before he realised he was being trailed!

I really should have got around to more stuff there there, Wallace's Cave looked fine.

[Fiend]

Christ this seems a long fucking time ago now... TBH I feel so fucking shit about climbing at the moment that if I hadn't written these all down (including UBB tags!) months ago, I might not have bothered.

Top 3 ledge shuffles:
Captain Mark Philips, Porthllechog - A sort of lifetime inspiration / intimidation thing even if I'd only recently heard about it. A shocking line that was quite a marathon rather than a sprint.
Last Of The Summer Wine, Red Walls - Pagan was a bigger classic experience, but LOTSW left it's mark for sheer Red Walls indulgence, especially creeping out of the disturbing cave into the delightful headwall.
Grazed And Confused, The Range - An absolutely definitive mini-adventure that has it all, devious line, tricky route-finding, spooky climbing, mini-exposure, the possibility of lowering straight into a zawn, etc etc...

Top 3 normal trad:
Clogwyn Yr Adar in general - Really should be in the top 3 sport maybe?? On my list for ages, the recent retro-bolt / revamp adding much more motivation, a lovely crag in a lovely setting.
Clotted Cream, Meadfoot Quarry - An early trad success that was a satisfying example of taking my sport warming-up into very suitable terrain.
Top Gear, Raven Threshwaite - A 14 year overdue revisit, this time in perfect weather. I was unsure about the weird line, and for that matter the distinctly dangerous groove, but it turned out worth it for some of the best rock and climbing in The Lakes across the shield...

Top 3 sport:
Ghengis Khan, Taff's Wells - Absolutely bloody lovely climbing up endless, off-vert, delicately featured rock.
Sven Vath, Attermire - Bolted Gogarth before bolted Gogarth became cool. Totally wild and totally underrated.
The Bloods, Marine Drive - A long time inspiration since the Redhead picture in And One For The Crow. Sturdy yet steady cranking, great fun.

Top 3 redpoint:
Deception, Lorry Park Quarry - Well named. Cool climbing with plenty of subtlety.
Walking With Barrance, Dinbren - Just really neat, genuinely good climbing.
Subterra, Nettle Buttress - As Mark20 said, the crux climbing is more like a bolted gritstone E6 (at least, I assume!). And therefore better than 99.9% than Peak Lime

Top 3 bloque Yorks:
Local Interest Only, Mytholm - National interest now cleaned?? An excellent blend of vert crimping and lanky highballing.
Photo Finish, Gilstead - A desperate siege, but also excellent quality, subtle in line and climbing.
Pochette Surprise, Deer Gallows - Pebbles, pebbles, smear, pebbles, pocket. As good as it gets.

Top 3 bloque Lancs:
Rusty Wall, Brownstones - Brilliant technical and committing highballing, well worth cleaning the finish.
Ressurection, Deeply Vale - Cool crimping and lurching, especially for the short
Ell's Arete, Wiltons - A neglected king line. 2 hours clearing a path to the top, 1 hour cleaning, 1 minute flashing this top class problem.

Top 3 bloque Peaks:
Geisterspiel, Rivelin Quarry - One of M20s best at the new Cuvier that is Rivelin Quarry. As good as aretes get.
Sunset Crack, Wharncliffe - And this is as good as Peak 6C slabs get. Just lovely.
Lessons In Depth, Woolley Edge - A diamond in the rough, really satisfying working out an involved sequence for an easier grade.

Top 3 bloque sandstone:
Self-Harmer, Harmer's Wood - Anything at Harmer's must be on the list somewhere. This was the most diverse and exciting, and I had to excavate it...
Third Brother, Grinshill - Brilliant, a techical delight of varied features, delicate footwork, head-smearing, etc etc
Queen Of Hearts, Harmer's Wood - Oh go on, more Harmer's. How about a V4 that took me 2 hours over 2 sessions. Great when it worked tho.

Top 3 bloque elsewhere:
Manor Crag in general  - An unusually aesthetic and line-filled limestone crag, giving the finger to the choss of Parisella's across the bay. Everything was great burly fun here.
Chwydd Llawtchwith, Moelfre - Really cool problem at a hidden gem crag, simultaneously fierce and subtle.
Terrine, South Hams - A rush to finish something good off in the baking heat before returning North, this unstarred gem was a highlight for aesthetics and quality.

Top 3 new routes:
Summon The Cracken, Cracken Edge - Pretty aesthetic.
Pirate Error, John Henry Quarry - An underrated wall that keeps on giving.
Broadside, Broadbottom Quarry - Good esoteric fun.

Top 3 new problems:
Tentacles, Cracken Edge - Lovely steady vert edging
Sailing The Seven Chodes, Maeshafn Quarry - An odd location and line, but good climbing.
Dim Chwydd, Moelfre - A very logical variant that makes for two great problems.

Top 3 4 5 spankings:
Depression - Grim. Not sure where this came from initially but the rest didn't help...
Golfer's elbow - The method for coping for depression was dialling back the faffy roped trips and focusing on power bouldering, and then I fucked it....
Sprained LCL - The method for coping for depression and golfer's elbow was dialling back the power bouldering and focusing on slabs and leg-intensive indoor bouldering, and then I fucked it...
Lingering sciatica - Not a big deal but I could do without it nagging away, and it doesn't help assess how my knee is feeling
Moonboard 6B+ - Okay so I did actually do one, after a multi-session siege that proved it harder than any 7A / + I've done outside. WhatEVER

Top 3 4 new UKBers ticked:
Pantontino - The man, the myth, the legend. I've got a lot of respect for the North Wales Mafia and it was a pleasure to meet the Godfather...
Reeve - Or 8b+ Reeve, rather.  A chirpy chap with good chat.... "It's not failure it's just deferred success".
Ru - An OG crimp waif. God knows how we ended up at the most esoteric hole in Clwyd (not my fault!) but it was good fun.
Bradders - Far too tall but also good fun and good vibes.

[jwi]

Top three multipitch routes


Tucan Ausente (toucan missing) 7a (6a obligatory?), 260m, Riglos

All routes in Riglos are equal, but some are more equal than others. The most equal route might be the absolutely amazing Tucan Ausente. Climbed with my OH a windy and overcast day in April. It used to be a much feared route as the money pitch, the first 55 m of the 100 m tall headwall used to be protected by twelve pretty bad 8 mm bolts. They have been replaced by stainless 12 mm bolts. Unfortunately the rebolter(s) also added a few new bolts, especially at the beginning of the pitch, taming the experience a bit too much, imho. Still the two headwall pitches offer stunning endurance climbing on perfect pudding. I climbed through without stopping at the belay giving me 100 m of continuous climbing. I am not sure if Tucan refers to a bird or the now defunct belay device from Simond.


La Demande, 6a (6a obligatory), 330m, Verdon

I had surprisingly fun on this. Well polished so the cracks are quite comfortable on the skin. Feels like a mountain route, and I have forgotten how much I love this kind of stuff. My OH does not really enjoy these kind routes but I did it with a friend who does, which made me reflect on how important it is that both climbers in the seilschaft enjoy themselves on routes with even just a tiny bit of suffering. Made me psyched of wasting an OH-free day in the Verdon on ULA as well. (Normally I reserve OH-free days for routes she has a hard time to follow)

Dame cookie 8a+ (6c obligatory) 120 m + 60 m scrambling, Verdon

Too hard for me this time, but not that hard actually. Even though it climbs an impressive wall the route offers a pure sport climbing experience (easy to read, never more than a body length between the bolts, relatively short pitches, ludicrously soft grades etc.). Very nice climbing, similar to Margalef in style. “Nothing but jugs,” according to first ascensionist Bruno Clement. I could almost imagine myself trying to redpoint a multipitch route for the first time in my life.

Honorable mention: L'Ange en decomposition, 7a, Verdon
I have done it twice before, but this route is amazing every time. Unreal quality on a  sweeping pillar high above the bottom of the gorges. Made even better as this time my OH onsighted the crux pitch in great style.


Top three domestic single pitch routes

Elle va où elle veut, 7c+, Céüse

Despite being one of the very first single pitch routes on the Grande Face sector in Céüse this route is not at all polished. A relatively easy start up to some seriously technical stuff followed by a really nice section of physical climbing. Amazing rock. One of the best routes I have done in Céüse.

Les Petits Princes de l'absurde, 7c+, Céüse

Just to the left of, and a touch easier than “Elle va où elle veut”. Not so steep, but long reaches between OK-ish holds with not amazing feet. Like ”Elle va...“ it has some amazing climbing after the crux. I spend a lot of time on my o/s attempt gotten lead astray twice, but should be eminently onsightable with some luck and/or tickmarks. I was sufficiently tired to have to wait to the next day to attempt again.


Persifleur, 8b, Saint Antonin

Great crux followed by some nice strength endurance on a steep top wall. First 8b I have ever done quickly and without any fuss, so I might overestimate the quality a bit, but really pleasant climbing.



Top three Trans-pyrenean single pitch routes

Géminis, 8b+, Rodellar
The hardest route of the year has to go in somewhere, right? Right! I have no shame for this as it is also one of the best sport routes I have ever done. Very little sika, and what sika there is is not really necessary.

Gladiator, 8b, Rodellar
Also brilliant, despite having a manufactured crux. I fell of the top, after it joins Colosseum, lowered, rested 40 min and then hiked it in perfect conditions. I found this slightly easier than Legalization to its left but maybe a touch harder than Géminis one route over to its right. Just goes to show how much individual variation there is in subjective difficulty.

Bellavista, 7c, Bellavista/Sadernes

A big fight on the greatest route of the beautiful winter sector of Sadernes. Lots of route reading mistakes, but I was just strong enough to keep trucking.


Top three spankings

I had more spankings than I could shake my stick at this year.

Attention on vous regarde, 8b+, Saint Antonin. One of many 8b+ routes I failed to climb, but on this I failed the hardest as I never managed a meaningful link of neither the first section or the second section despite spending a good chunk of time on it. That we had horrible conditions through the entire autumn did not help, but I doubt any set of conditions would have seen me doing meaningful attempts on this route.

Chulilla, every single route but one. I have not really onsighted on single pitch crags for what feels like years. And yeah, Chulilla is soft, or so they say. At least it is if you sort the routes by number of ascents on 8a.nu and only climb routes from the first two pages. I have done most of those a long time ago, and only unpopular routes remain. Those kicked my ass hard. I also failed on some of the most popular routes of the area, such as La Bufa (fell on the fist move), Tequila Sunrise (pumped out about halfway up), Moon Safari (hilarious route-reading mistake almost at the top), El diablo viste de Prana (fell on last hard move), etc. I also managed to fall on a 7b and a 7b+. OTOH, my OH crushed and onsighted fifteen routes from 7b to 7c in two weeks. (Normally she onsights one 7b a year or so, and her previous best flash is 7b+ (1)). Finally I managed to get up Entre Dos Caminos by miracle and immaculate ticking from some unknown benefactor who had hung draws of perfect length. From general comments I understand that the route is comically soft but getting up the second tufa was a huge fight for me. Even the first tufa up to the horisontal felt tough. Also o/s El corral de la tia poya the same day, which felt hilariously hard for 7b+, so what do I know really.

Papy Boum, 7b+, Céüse. Fell on the eponymous Boom! move on the onsight and many times more until I finally got through. Not a spanking in the sense that I did not do it, but I had more attempt on this than on everything I have done up to 8a in the last ten years or so. Brilliant route. Bring small fingers or ability to jump.

[remus]

Top three boulder problems, UK

eatswood Double Trav, ~8a+ sport. Shame it's a complete non-line as the climbing on it is so good and I had some great sessions getting it dialed in enough for the link. Probably one of my favourite pieces of grit climbing (because it doesn't climb like grit at all!)

Once Upon a time in the West, Lakes, 7B+. The icing on top of a great day out with my gf. Smashed around the easy circuit near the parking, gf dispatched her first 7A+ then wandered up to this and managed to scrape up it at the end of the day feeling totally cooked (30 problems in total).

Kudos, Rubicon, 7B. I've struggled on this in the past. Wandered over to rubicon after sacking off a session at Moat and did it first go  I would say I'm glad I never have to do it again but the lime fiend in me wants to try Hot Fun Closing 

Top three trad routes/solos UK

Didn't get up to much trad but squeezed in a few routes here and there.

Ships that Pass in the Night, Pembroke, E5. Not sure whether I've gone soft but the run out at the top felt fucking miles. So good latching the ledge though, proper adrenalin rush.

Life Assurance, Burbage South, E6. Went out for a casual boulder with a load of work friends. A friend was on it so I borrowed their harness for a quick top rope. Did it first go, tried the crux a couple more times then tied on and got it done before I could chicken out. Great grit experience, in essence pretty easy but just need to keep your head together.

Soloing days at stanage and burbage. I had a 'puerile ticker' goal this year of getting in to the top 25 busiest climbers on UKC (strike me down Ken) so I ended up having some fun afternoons out ticking off 30+ routes at a time. It was cool to explore some of the nooks and crannies in areas I thought I'd done a lot of the obvious lines.

Top three sport routes UK

Victorious, Yorkshire, 8a. Such a good line and pretty atypical of UK lime being powerful, pumpy and covered in knees. A right softy but you can't help but smile while smashing around above the lip of the cave.

It Can't Be Denied Direct, Dorset, 7b+. The hardest part of a big day out with Duma ticking a route at every grade from 1 to 7c at Hedbury. Absolutely battled my way through the super bouldery start and just about held it together for the top. The tank felt completely empty at that point, but Duma was an absolute hero and put the draws in the remaining hard routes (7a, 7a+ and 6c+) while I flailed my way up them. Some comedy scenes at the end where I nearly binned it trying to do a 6b+ after we panicked and thought we'd missed a grade.

Prison Sex, Portland, 7c+. This felt like a great taste of what Portland has to offer, it was a great fight putting this together, and the lash for the ledge is so cool! Previously I've struggled to get in to the climbing on Portland (conditions always seem a bit of a battle) so it was refreshing to be reminded of the quality on offer.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Only managed to get away once this year (woe is me) but it was a great trip with a cool crew and managed to climb pretty well as a bonus.

Orion, Kalymnos, 7c+. Easy pick for the #1 spot, just the sort of experience I was looking for in a flash and perfectly timed for building a bit of confidence at the start of the trip. I had some good beta from watching a few people through the crux but was free styling the last few hard moves which added some fun.

Racomello, Kalymnos, 8b. Again I got quite lucky as on my second session I bumped in to a chap who'd been working it for a couple of weeks so we swapped loads of beta (I managed to avoid feeling like a total leach by showing him some good knee bar beta). In the end it came together pretty quickly which was quite a relief, as last time I tried to project something in Kalymnos it was pretty stressful. And just so I don't forget, it's a friggin cool route too! A fun, powerful boulder in the bottom followed by some pumpy tech to the top.

Zeus, Kalymnos, 7c+. Pretty atypical stuff for kalymnos. I had a lot of fun questing around on the techy vert.

Top three misc.

DWS day around lydstep. I'd been sat in the van watching the rain all day so set off with very low expectations, only to be greeted with perfect DWS cons. I put my boots on and climbed for 2 hours straight (with a brief interlude to change crags). Every route seemed top notch but highlights included Perfect Pitch, Topology, Hairy Ball Theorem and Captain Caveman. Rounded it all off by ripping a hold off and getting in the soup for the first time of the season, perfect!

Bought a house with my partner. Bonus points as it came with 90% of a sweet double board setup already in the garage! Wasn't able to make a lot of use of it over summer but I've had so much fun on it the last couple of months.

Actually getting away on some trips. Mostly UK stuff but quite a relief after 2020.

Top Spankings

Doing a reasonable amount of DWS. Other than the above day at Lydstep I only got out for one other session (which was a piece of shit). Worst season in ages, made more excruciating seeing friends milk some great conditions later in the season.

Not going to font. The end of a 14 year streak of going at least once a year 

Anything hard on a rope in the peak. Dabbled on a few harder things but lacked commitment, got a few options lined up for next year at least.

[GazM]

Another year trying to make the most of the limited free time that a young family affords. Bouldering and projecting and staying local is pretty much all I manage but I'm lucky enough to keep finding stuff that keeps me psyched.

Top 3 new boulder problems:
On a snowy walk in January I unearthed an area above Loch Meig in Strathconon that's 15 mins drive from home that kept me entertained for the next few months and provided these highlights:
Third Wave 7Aish
https://www.instagram.com/p/CNniIQ1DOea/?utm_medium=copy_link
Horse of the Woods 7A+ish
https://www.instagram.com/p/CLkTjkhDPNZ/?utm_medium=copy_link
Further exploration nearby over the summer provided this little gem:
Latte Pappa 7Aish
https://www.instagram.com/p/CWysBURN1vS/?utm_medium=copy_link

Top new route
Flex E5 6aish
A short drive from home is an ex-crag called Meig Crag that has been all but lost to nature. After lots of cleaning and a bit of working on a rope I added this cool route to the list that will probably never be climbed again.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CO8UAH1j4FD/?utm_medium=copy_link

Top route
Journey Man's Wall E3 5c North Quarry, Somerset. This meant quite a bit to me despite being on a pretty scrappy bit of rock in a hole in the ground. Fortunately it climbs far better than it looks and at 45m is a bit of a voyage. It's just down the road from where I grew up and I've always wanted to climb it after seeing 'real' climbers on it over 15 years ago when I was just starting out. Now my parents were moving away it's incredibly unlikely I'd ever be near it again. Despite it being the kind of thing I would have wanted to onsight back when I had time for that sort of thing I really enjoyed taking my time to clean it and get it dialled before getting a belay from my dad as his very first (and probably last) belay.

[moose]

I didn't do any routes, so I'll expand the bouldering section beyond the traditional three.

Favourite Grit Boulders

The Flakes, Earl - this had been spitting me off for years.  I never thought I would have the shoulder beef to press out from the ramp, turns out lack of commitment was the main problem.

Ju Ju Club, Caley - another long-term target off the wish-list.  My efforts were rewarded afterwards by taking an unpleasant bounce downhill from Bens Groove.

Racing Raymond, Eldwick - nice tenuous climbing, well worth a visit (and Bradders' addition to the circuit, Hummingbird, is rather funky too).

Favourite Non-Grit Boulders

The Wilding, Dunnerdale - good techy crimping - very pleased to flash the stand and then manage the sitter first go.  Well worth the hour of stumbling around woodland trying to find it, and then getting feasted on by midges.

Butternut Squash, Woodwell - mainly included as it was so unexpected.  I had tried the previous year and never managed a couple of the moves, even in isolation.  I returned, after around 18 months of absence, feeling weak the day after my first A-Z shot, intending to just spend a day trying to remember my sequence for future reference.  To my complete surprise (especially as it was preceded by two hours of completely failing to repeat the "easy" parts) I got it done.

Blood, Sugar, Sex, Magik, Woodwell -  non-line of bum-scraping sideways action but rather involving.

Top Spankings

Tau Zero, Sour Milk - It wasn't a prolonged failure but I think breaking my wrist and being out of action for 2 months qualifies as a spanking!



Techobabble, Virtual Crag - Okay, I did the problem, but it certainly spanked me afterwards!

https://youtu.be/-ulQarTNu8U?t=58

Pit Problem, Trowbarrow - so much time invested in so few moves!

[turnipturned]

Crickey, unlucky breaking your wrist Moose. That looked nasty!

[Bradders]

I think Moose claims the "Most Spectacular Ejects of 2021" award. Especially considering his Ben's Groove dismount as well, which I witnessed (read "probably should have been spotting") and can confirm was another biggy!!

[Fiend]

Remus, what about your top Geekiest Listage??