Quote from: Ed booth on December 28, 2021, 07:51:17 am He may be a tech and crimp master. Without wanting to sound like a dick, he was at K one day this summer and could barely bolt-to-bolt Sticky Wicket or 50-for-5. Obviously he may be v specialist and much better at sandstone.
He may be a tech and crimp master.
Now this has its own thread maybe we can get a list of those outcrop routes that have genuinely hard climbing free from the miasma of the E grade. A couple that haven’t been mentioned are Captain Invincible at Burbage, Toxic Bilberries at Wilton, Transform and Purgatory at back Bowden
…terrible gear, sketch moves, suspect rock.
Quote from: abarro81 on December 28, 2021, 11:26:27 amQuote from: Ed booth on December 28, 2021, 07:51:17 am He may be a tech and crimp master. Without wanting to sound like a dick, he was at K one day this summer and could barely bolt-to-bolt Sticky Wicket or 50-for-5. Obviously he may be v specialist and much better at sandstone.To be fair to Franco I can't do sticky wicket either
There's a bit of a dilemma with Immortal (finally, a difficult route with a good name). On the one hand it would be good for people to have a rope down it and see what they think; on the other it isn't good to put traffic through fragile crimps if there's not going to be a lead at the end of it.Are they that fragile, Franco? You must have top roped it a lot before lead. Any crumbling?
Quote from: Teaboy on December 28, 2021, 11:55:00 amNow this has its own thread maybe we can get a list of those outcrop routes that have genuinely hard climbing free from the miasma of the E grade. A couple that haven’t been mentioned are Captain Invincible at Burbage, Toxic Bilberries at Wilton, Transform and Purgatory at back BowdenThis would be a fun list I reckon! To pick a few from Franco's post that'd fit the criteria and add a few grades to the ones you suggested:Hard cheese, ~8cBarron greenback, I think Pete said it was around 8b?Nothing Lasts, was it Ned or Dan V who suggested ~8A?Captain Invincible, ~8bCaptain Invincible, ~8bToxic BilberriesTranscendence (I assume you meant this, dont think there's a route called Transform at Bowden), ~7C+ or 8bPurgatory, ~8A+
Quote from: Andy F on December 27, 2021, 11:55:52 amIs Franco basing his E11 grade on all those E10's he's repeated around the country... When you did your new route in Anglesarke Andy, how many routes at that grade all over the country did you base the grade on?According to your logbook Andy you climbed a couple of E6's in Lancashire when you graded it. Pot? Kettle? Black?
Is Franco basing his E11 grade on all those E10's he's repeated around the country...
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on December 27, 2021, 12:23:40 pmQuote from: Andy F on December 27, 2021, 11:55:52 amIs Franco basing his E11 grade on all those E10's he's repeated around the country... When you did your new route in Anglesarke Andy, how many routes at that grade all over the country did you base the grade on?According to your logbook Andy you climbed a couple of E6's in Lancashire when you graded it. Pot? Kettle? Black?Not sure if you missed this Andy?
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on December 28, 2021, 02:10:05 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on December 27, 2021, 12:23:40 pmQuote from: Andy F on December 27, 2021, 11:55:52 amIs Franco basing his E11 grade on all those E10's he's repeated around the country... When you did your new route in Anglesarke Andy, how many routes at that grade all over the country did you base the grade on?According to your logbook Andy you climbed a couple of E6's in Lancashire when you graded it. Pot? Kettle? Black?Not sure if you missed this Andy?I based it on routes I'd tried in the local area, some I'd done, some I hadn't. Plus routes in other areas, plus comparing the difficulty to sport climbs in Yorkshire/Peak to get an approximation for the grade. Also having others try it before I did it gave me a clue as to the grade. You know, as wide a spectrum of opinion to get the most accurate grades, based on local and further afield grades.In other words, the same way most people come up with a grade
Quote from: Andy F on December 28, 2021, 06:25:49 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on December 28, 2021, 02:10:05 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on December 27, 2021, 12:23:40 pmQuote from: Andy F on December 27, 2021, 11:55:52 amIs Franco basing his E11 grade on all those E10's he's repeated around the country... When you did your new route in Anglesarke Andy, how many routes at that grade all over the country did you base the grade on?According to your logbook Andy you climbed a couple of E6's in Lancashire when you graded it. Pot? Kettle? Black?Not sure if you missed this Andy?I based it on routes I'd tried in the local area, some I'd done, some I hadn't. Plus routes in other areas, plus comparing the difficulty to sport climbs in Yorkshire/Peak to get an approximation for the grade. Also having others try it before I did it gave me a clue as to the grade. You know, as wide a spectrum of opinion to get the most accurate grades, based on local and further afield grades.In other words, the same way most people come up with a gradeJust like Franco then apart from he didnt have lots of people trying his routes. Give the lad a rest….
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on December 28, 2021, 06:27:46 pmQuote from: Andy F on December 28, 2021, 06:25:49 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on December 28, 2021, 02:10:05 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on December 27, 2021, 12:23:40 pmQuote from: Andy F on December 27, 2021, 11:55:52 amIs Franco basing his E11 grade on all those E10's he's repeated around the country... When you did your new route in Anglesarke Andy, how many routes at that grade all over the country did you base the grade on?According to your logbook Andy you climbed a couple of E6's in Lancashire when you graded it. Pot? Kettle? Black?Not sure if you missed this Andy?I based it on routes I'd tried in the local area, some I'd done, some I hadn't. Plus routes in other areas, plus comparing the difficulty to sport climbs in Yorkshire/Peak to get an approximation for the grade. Also having others try it before I did it gave me a clue as to the grade. You know, as wide a spectrum of opinion to get the most accurate grades, based on local and further afield grades.In other words, the same way most people come up with a gradeJust like Franco then apart from he didnt have lots of people trying his routes. Give the lad a rest….Apart from all the sport experience and actually doing things more than 30 miles from where I live put up by other people, yes identicalAnd you're the one dragging it out Adam. Give it a break, it's boring.
Quote from: Andy F on December 28, 2021, 06:37:49 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on December 28, 2021, 06:27:46 pmQuote from: Andy F on December 28, 2021, 06:25:49 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on December 28, 2021, 02:10:05 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on December 27, 2021, 12:23:40 pmQuote from: Andy F on December 27, 2021, 11:55:52 amIs Franco basing his E11 grade on all those E10's he's repeated around the country... When you did your new route in Anglesarke Andy, how many routes at that grade all over the country did you base the grade on?According to your logbook Andy you climbed a couple of E6's in Lancashire when you graded it. Pot? Kettle? Black?Not sure if you missed this Andy?I based it on routes I'd tried in the local area, some I'd done, some I hadn't. Plus routes in other areas, plus comparing the difficulty to sport climbs in Yorkshire/Peak to get an approximation for the grade. Also having others try it before I did it gave me a clue as to the grade. You know, as wide a spectrum of opinion to get the most accurate grades, based on local and further afield grades.In other words, the same way most people come up with a gradeJust like Franco then apart from he didnt have lots of people trying his routes. Give the lad a rest….Apart from all the sport experience and actually doing things more than 30 miles from where I live put up by other people, yes identicalAnd you're the one dragging it out Adam. Give it a break, it's boring.Yeah you’re boring me now as well. You’ve had this bone with him for years. Maybe concentrate on your own life instead.