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Aims for 2022 (Read 33980 times)

abarro81

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#50 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 04:36:33 pm
Norway is still Schengen isn't it?

Oh right, my mistake. Same restrictions then is it?

I believe so, at least re 90 in 180. Though it may have it's own long-stay or 'digital nomad' visa options

James Malloch

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#51 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 04:44:50 pm
Jan/Feb/March

- keep up with physio and get running again
- climb twice a week to get happy on board circuits/problems after injury
- some pre-hab (TBC) to work on some grips I don’t use much

April onwards

- Quit job and head off in van
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
- 7c onsight
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse
- don’t get sucked into hard boulders
- have fun and take time to properly relax
- do some big multi day walks in Europe
- eat a lot of french pastries
- find job to start in 2023 for when we come back

- if I can’t get a visa to stay in Europe for 9 months, tick off some of my 2021 route aims

Sounds like you've got a good year lined up. If EU stays don't work out and you've got the time, Norway is flipping awesome if you haven't been.

Yeah I can’t wait! Been at this work thing for too long…

Norway won’t work but Croatia is the current plan if I can’t get the visa. Combined with some trips to the U.K. and maybe Turkey once it’s cool enough.

Ged

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#52 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 06:05:18 pm
Norway is still Schengen isn't it?

Oh right, my mistake. Same restrictions then is it?

I believe so, at least re 90 in 180. Though it may have it's own long-stay or 'digital nomad' visa options

Gotcha. I've given so little thought to foreign trips for the last 18 months that I'm very out of touch. So it's 90 out of 180 in all Schengen area?

abarro81

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#53 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 06:40:11 pm
Yup. There are country specific visas that allow you to stay longer too (options and rules vary by country but at least some of these are additional to the 90, so a 6 month visa in Spain might get you 12 months as you could tag 90 tourist days on the front and again on the back)

seankenny

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#54 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 06:46:09 pm
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:

- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment.

Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year.

Climbing
- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.
- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready".
 - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times.

If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:
- 7a sport
- E1/2


Life
- Get a job.
- Support partner.
- Improve Sinhala.

csl

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#55 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 08:10:16 pm
1. Climb Zippy's Traverse in the damp having driven from #ldn
2. Climb Captain Hook in the damp having driven from #ldn

 :punk:

You got this, brah.

 :w00t:

csl

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#56 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 08:12:18 pm
Sorry Fiend, way off the mark. But now you mention it that would be much more on brand, perhaps I need to rename it  :-\

moose

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#57 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 09:36:19 pm
In the age of Covid-19 and Brexit, having aims beyond avoiding respiratory failure and not having to sell a kidney to buy chorizo seems like hubris, but here goes.....

Get back into the Yorkshire lime sport scene
Covid was the excuse for stepping aside, but really, after 10 years of RPing, I felt I had done most of the pleasant / feasible routes in the local area and lost my enthusiasm.  The last year of bouldering was a very enjoyable break (and included a break I definitely didn't enjoy!) but I now feel the need to retrieve the rope and harness.  Targets will depend on how much fitness I can recover.  Even in my peak years, I went from 8a+/b to 7b over the winter... I dread to think what a 2 year hiatus will have done.  I have faint hopes of attending to unfinished business with Main Overhang at Malham but an entire year of RPing Wasted Youth and Sticky Wicket might await!

As much outdoors bouldering, preferably at new crags, as the above allows
An aim for Jan-March and Oct-Dec - go outdoors as much as possible.  Even if it's just to do a warm-up circuit somewhere new, although doing any of the 7B+/7Cs on my wish-list would be nice.

Keep up the mid-week training
Try to do at least some max hangs, weighted pull-ups, core exercises during the mid-week.

Enjoy the opportunity to have the odd non-climbing weekend day
If the rock is wet, rather than just another session on the same, tired plastic problems, maybe consider a decent hill walk (there'll always be time for an extra fingerboard session!)

Non Climbing

Work / life balance - or at least if the work is unavoidable, try not to beat myself up too much about matters beyond my control.

Food - try to cook a new recipe every week.

Drink - less [or, more realistically, at least better]

Visit my brother in HK / Singapore - very much dependent on his and his wife's wants / needs, but I'll be an uncle in Feb and haven't seen him for 2 years so a first trip to 'the East" seems warranted.
« Last Edit: January 02, 2022, 10:04:03 pm by moose »

jwi

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#58 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 09:45:12 pm
[...]
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
[...]
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse

Good combination of goals. Cent patates is eminently onsightable!

Ed booth

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#59 Re: Aims for 2022
January 03, 2022, 09:29:28 am
HNY all!

CLIMBING:
-Planning on trianing through Jan and Feb and into March with the aim of hitting Malham in the Spring. Would love to finish off Predator and really want to climb Bat Route. Plan to go on other routes there too to help build fitness and dial into the style again. Predator not fully my style so if it's taking ages and using up dry crag days I may just crack on with Bat Route.
-Get back to doing more Fr8a's and above. Think I only did a few in 2021. Aim for >10
-Whilst training this next few months will try to get out locally and want to finish off Sub-Moron (Tom Newman's Fb8a at Grinshill) and maybe the odd day out elsewhere to keep the motivation up
-Hopefully carry some form and fitness out of the Spring and just enjoy some good climbing around the country through the summer. I've got loads of trad and sport routes that have been on my wish list for the past 5 years now. With the kids I've had to manage my expectations better so I will be grateful for just doing anything really, I just want to feel like I've pushed myself.
-Finish some things on the Slate like Quarryman Groove (and should try the rest too) and Wall Within.
- I would like to try Unchi Maka on the Sialouze in the French Alps if I can create an oppurtunity to get out there at the right time with somebody psyched. Also the Brandler Hasse in the Dollys (see below)
-Couple of routes that I never got back on after getting close in a session are Supercool and Nemesis so be good to finish these off.
-If I get to Pembroke and am feeling fit and have any trad momentum would be keen to try From A Distance .

LIFE:
-Got a 1 and a 3 year old so I'm always trying to get the balance right of doing my bit at home to maximise time away from the family, and juggling it all with work and being knackered.
-Once early winter climbing training is out of the way and I'm getting outside more will start cycling again in preparation for hopefully doing the Dolomites Haute Route event in September. I'd like to tie this into to doing something like the Brandler Hasse which I have always wanted to do. Don't want it to take over my climbing but I'm crap at back to back days of sport climbing anyway so mixing it up with the odd bike day here and there shouldn't be too detrimental, and it feels good to get fit.

Game on!  :2thumbsup:

James Malloch

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#60 Re: Aims for 2022
January 03, 2022, 09:41:56 am
[...]
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
[...]
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse

Good combination of goals. Cent patates is eminently onsightable!

Yeah I think I’d like to give it an onsight go. Would love another crack at Blockagé Violent too, hopefully I’ll be going better than I was 7 years ago!

spidermonkey09

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#61 Re: Aims for 2022
January 03, 2022, 10:22:29 am
[...]
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
[...]
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse

Good combination of goals. Cent patates is eminently onsightable!

Yeah I think I’d like to give it an onsight go. Would love another crack at Blockagé Violent too, hopefully I’ll be going better than I was 7 years ago!

Cent patates is a lot, lot easier than Blocage. I thought it was 7b but happy to take the tick given everything else at Ceuse is nails. The fact that CP gets the same grade as changement de look is a joke! I love it there, want to go back again this year.
« Last Edit: January 03, 2022, 10:42:24 am by spidermonkey09 »

jwi

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#62 Re: Aims for 2022
January 03, 2022, 11:08:04 am

Cent patates is a lot, lot easier than Blocage. I thought it was 7b but happy to take the tick given everything else at Ceuse is nails. The fact that CP gets the same grade as changement de look is a joke! I love it there, want to go back again this year.

Well, yes. (Cent patates is also given 7b in both of the local guidebooks). Fun fact: Changement de look was given 7c in the first printed topo for Céüse. I am not sure why they changed the grade. In its current status it is a lot closer to 7c+ than to 7b+. However there is a 7b+ that is even harder to its right. Got to love the mid eighties and their competitive grading on mid sevens.

Stabbsy

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#63 Re: Aims for 2022
January 03, 2022, 11:26:16 am
A year for getting my priorities straight, so I'm nicking one of Ged's.

Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now) sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.
If the outcome of the above is less dramatic than round 1 was then :-

1. Make good use of 6 months paternity leave - house projects, climbing, running, whatever.
2. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).
3. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - my recent output looks more like a cowpat than a pyramid, loads of low to mid sevens and nothing harder (apart from stuff that doesn't warrant its grade).
4. Keep on running. Two PBs on the road plus a decent effort at the English Fell Champs as it's my first year in a new age category. At least one category win in a local race.

Ged

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#64 Re: Aims for 2022
January 03, 2022, 11:32:42 am
Congratulations! 6 months paternity, sweet deal! I've got 4 weeks, and then taking the odd extra week tagged onto other holidays, so hopefully will have plenty of family time.

Roll on the new one being old enough for the running buggy!

Bradders

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#65 Re: Aims for 2022
January 03, 2022, 09:24:00 pm
Congrats Stabbsy, and 6 months! Quite jealous. Thought I'd done well with 6 weeks + 2 weeks holiday.

Wellsy

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#66 Re: Aims for 2022
January 03, 2022, 09:27:13 pm
I would like to add "Do Bumlog Millionaire 7A and Colt 7A+" to my aims for this year as they are currently the two problems I've put the most time into without doing.

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#67 Re: Aims for 2022
January 03, 2022, 10:49:27 pm
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.

If we're adding to the aims, I should declare that I'd better finish a certain Cwmfynnon patio that I've pottered with for the last 5 year's or so. Although it's unlikely it will get much action. It's more of a performance piece or installation

JohnM

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#68 Re: Aims for 2022
January 04, 2022, 10:14:28 am
Time to set the 2022 goals. Some are dependent on injuries and other factors out of my control but even a couple of things off the list will make for a good year!

Climbing

1. Fix my right elbow.
2. Finish Der Schwarzer Schwann (8c).
3. Finish some 8a-8bs I have tried in Tirol - Particularly Rose der Zeit (8a+).
4. Climb on some sport sandstone (NRG, RRG or Taipan if it opens again).
5. Go bouldering outdoors again.

Running/Cycling/Fishing/Skiing

1. Fix my ankle and knee tendonitis (or at least keep it at bay).
2. Do a ski x-country marathon.
3. Finish one or more of - Bob Graham Round, Eiger Ultra, an Everesting, UTMB (dependent on entry lottery), Dragon's Back Race (dependent on not getting in UTMB and getting a place via the waiting list), run 3000km.
4. A nice cycle tour (2-3 days).
5. Catch a 20lb+ pike.

Misc./life

1. Sleep more/better.
2. Drink less.
3. Get less stressed about work + work less (maybe try and take Q4 off work).
4. Learn more French.

steveri

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#69 Re: Aims for 2022
January 04, 2022, 10:38:17 am
Fun
Try harder on a rope
7A
Funny little wild moorland locations
Read more
Use phone less

36chambers

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#70 Re: Aims for 2022
January 04, 2022, 12:37:38 pm
same same, but different

- 5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list
- 5 sec, one hand, front 3, BM2K outer edge. See Ryuichi for inspiration. (briefly tried last week and didn’t last a second on either hand!)
- 5 eights
- 5 new UK crags
- 5 sessions on new to me 8B’s
- 5 sessions on 8a+/< sport routes
- 5 off the highball list
- 5 FA’s (including shitty link ups)
- 5 climbing trips (weekends away, holidays)
- 5 Dragon/God level board projects
- 5 training room PBs (hopefully set some benchmarks in the next few weeks)
- 5 percent increase on my powerlifting lifts (benchmarks all set, but haven't really spent much time pushing them, so 5% might be too easy, we'll see).

wildcard lifetime goal
- do an 8A in the forest (close during my short trip in Oct 2021, hopefully I'll get another punt in 2022)

and finally
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again).

mr chaz

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#71 Re: Aims for 2022
January 04, 2022, 01:04:03 pm
Shockingly, lockdowns, injury and becoming a parent has meant my last logged outdoor climb/boulder was in May... FFS. Shouldn't be too hard to better that in 2022 I hope, so my aims are simply:

1. Jumping on the bandwagon here as well - be a good Dad/partner.
2. Build the woodie (shed is up, materials have arrived, holds on order... just need a precious day or so to put it up)
3. Get back to the outdoors in general with family - walking, camping, van, etc
4. Do more climbing than 2021.
5. Look after bicep.
6. Get in some more Trad days with my brother, like the good old times!

Less of a priority now and seemingly impossible:

7. Finish (haha!) house renovation and endless list of DIY jobs

Bradders

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#72 Re: Aims for 2022
January 04, 2022, 01:36:51 pm
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again).

Glad this isn't just me (although also sorry to hear you're similarly afflicted).

Hard to say what it really is but I definitely feel shitter than before, despite objectively being as good / maybe just not ticked anything quite as difficult as before but it's all there, just a lack of opportunity. Dunno.

Neil Gresham's article on the other channel about training during the pandemic, and how "overall it seemed that climbers were getting stronger on mass during lockdown", was thoroughly irritating when that was absolutely miles away from my own experience!

tommytwotone

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#73 Re: Aims for 2022
January 04, 2022, 03:00:42 pm
same same, but different

- 5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list
- 5 sec, one hand, front 3, BM2K outer edge. See Ryuichi for inspiration. (briefly tried last week and didn’t last a second on either hand!)
- 5 eights
- 5 new UK crags
- 5 sessions on new to me 8B’s
- 5 sessions on 8a+/< sport routes
- 5 off the highball list
- 5 FA’s (including shitty link ups)
- 5 climbing trips (weekends away, holidays)
- 5 Dragon/God level board projects
- 5 training room PBs (hopefully set some benchmarks in the next few weeks)
- 5 percent increase on my powerlifting lifts (benchmarks all set, but haven't really spent much time pushing them, so 5% might be too easy, we'll see).

wildcard lifetime goal
- do an 8A in the forest (close during my short trip in Oct 2021, hopefully I'll get another punt in 2022)

and finally
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again).

You've got a few more offwidths at Brimham to see off as well fella.

tommytwotone

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#74 Re: Aims for 2022
January 04, 2022, 03:33:45 pm
Climbing-wise - same as last few years:

Do a new (to me) 7a outdoors somewhere.

Easy to say, but getting the stars of weather / time / family life / ability to all align suitably is the challenge here.

Outside of climbing:

Carry on working from home without going too stir-crazy
Learn to maintain, and actually maintain huge / complex garden on the new house
Be / carry on being an alright Dad and partner

 

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