I find it really hard to chalk up on 7:3.
Quote from: Fultonius on December 19, 2021, 09:42:14 pmI find it really hard to chalk up on 7:3.Have you tried liquid chalk?
Still hoping to get away somewhere in January, not sure where or when.
Quote from: cheque on December 19, 2021, 11:07:15 pmQuote from: Fultonius on December 19, 2021, 09:42:14 pmI find it really hard to chalk up on 7:3.Have you tried liquid chalk?Second that! Liquid Chalk
Saturday: Limit boulder session. 6am session at the School listening to the cricket on TMS. Taking the learning from the other post where I asked on structuring this session. I shortened the warm up and did more variety at limit. Used the 50 degree board and the 40 & 25 degree Moonboard. Finished with conditioning. 4x5 body weight power pull ups.
Mon-Sat: Broke phone while working on the van (potentially left it in the engine bay and drove off, maybe) kind of negating the saving of doing it myslef but at least I now now how to do the aux belt, take off the air con pump and alternator...And therefore lost my notes for the week...From memory:Mon: General boulder sessionTues: NowtWed: AnCap Repeaters (75% max as per crimped app). So, BW-10kg IIRC, 6 x 6 (7:3). I find it really hard to chalk up on 7:3.Thurs: NowtFri: Nowt - wasn't sure if I was going to climb sat or Sunday, as I was maybe going to have to work SundaySat: 20 mins yogaSun: Lattice Assessment!!!!!!!Turns out my finger strength is about average for my grades (1arm 83% BW).I managed 57 moves on the 20degree board, then, interestingly (which seems to have made my outcomes quite....conflicting....are) I managed 43, 43, 43 on my 3 laps in the fatigue test. Which apparently means my Aerobic Capacity is pretty well developed for my level, but my (I presume AnCap??) "Metabolic Conditioning Phase" is "under-trained".Slightly confused by this, might query it.The big surprise was my core is shit, which is a very nice thing to be shit at! Seems like it's something I can easily work without any more risk of elbow/finger injuries and might reap some GAINZ.
Anyway, then fingerboard 6x 10s half crimp 26mm edge, 3 min rests. At the end of my warm up decided to experiment with a +52kg hang and surprised myself by doing 10s with a couple to spare, so decided to stick at that weight and managed all 5 of the remaining hangs, apart from dropping the last second of the last rep! Considering my tested max on this edge was +35kg in July that's awesome!