[User deactivated.]

Wellsy, once you've begun falling out with a project but have already invested time/energy into it (and are reasonably able to do it), I think the best course of action is to visit it once out of every x outdoor sessions.

For me, x would be about 4, but that will depend on how much you get out. This way you can get lots of climbing in, but shouldn't lose your progress like giving it up for the season would.

tldr: keep turning up but not all the time

[dunnyg]

It's nice if there are other things you want to do at the crag as well. This means you can go with the main aim of trying other stuff, and just have a look at bumlog. Means you can keep your eye in  but not get too bogged down in negative psyche

[Wellsy]

Thanks for the advice guys. It'll go at some point, I'm confident, just a case of getting the most out of outdoor sessions!

[spidermonkey09]

Thanks for the advice guys. It'll go at some point, I'm confident, just a case of getting the most out of outdoor sessions!

Are you using a kneepad on it? I could barely get the knee to touch the rock without one, my shin just wasn't long enough. Obviously makes it easier but I think also makes it more balanced.

[Wellsy]

I didn't but I find the kneebar fine and the bottom into the crux dynamic move I've got dialled to do every time. And if I stick the dynamic move the top is fine I'm confident on that. It's just the dynamic crux move that is so ethereal and some sessions I can't do it by itself, in isolation

[spidermonkey09]

I didn't but I find the kneebar fine and the bottom into the crux dynamic move I've got dialled to do every time. And if I stick the dynamic move the top is fine I'm confident on that. It's just the dynamic crux move that is so ethereal and some sessions I can't do it by itself, in isolation

The crux move being the move to the lip? That is an odd move. It was such good conditions when I did I probably just got lucky. Can you do it from a stand fairly consistently? Just wondering if you're powering out slightly going from the bottom.

[Wellsy]

I cannot do it from the stand consistently at all. I spent a session trying it, did it from the stand three times in a row the following session, then couldn't do it from the bottom, and last session I went back to trying it from the stand (in great connies, fresh) and didn't stick it even once from the stand though I did get close.

The frustrating thing is I've gone backwards, which hasn't ever happened before. I need to basically relearn the stand before I can go back to the sit into the stand but I could easily just spend the next session not doing it for two hours again.

[Bradders]

I'd do what others have suggested and go and do something else for a bit.

[Wellsy]

I think that's what I'll end up doing, yeah

[Bonjoy]

Maybe go back with others when you do return. helps sometimes with me. Sometimes it'll unlock some beta subtly, even when you think there's nothing to be found, or just seeing others do something can get you up it if you're already close.

[mark20]

I think it’s a tough 7A at the best of times, and particularly conditions dependant. and it’s often a struggle to get really good conditions at that crag - wooded / sheltered and a bit green.
Best go on a really windy day, with lower humidity, rather than just cold (and usually more humid)

[Wellsy]

I'd love to blame the connies but I can't really. I think it's just a very technical move that one cannot just pull hard on and I can't get it right, which is just how it goes for the time being. The real solution is "get technically better" and that will happen in time.

I will certainly go back with others for sure:)

[Aussiegav]

Saturday:
Limit boulder session.
6am session at the School listening to the cricket on TMS.
Taking the learning from the other post where I asked on structuring this session. I shortened the warm up and did more variety at limit. Used the 50 degree board and the 40 & 25 degree Moonboard.

Finished with conditioning.
4x5 body weight power pull ups.

How'd it go compared to previously?

The cricket was great. 

Seriously, thanks for asking. The session was a lot better and I felt better on the problem I tried last week.
Variety of board was also helpful. I’m feeling quite jaded and fatigued on the 50, getting on the Boards was great.
I finish this block after the new year and will replace the limit session with a boulder mileage session and reintroduce finger boarding.

[Aussiegav]

Oldfella: Say hi next time you're at AW, seems you're always there when I am... Look out for a red, gold and green bobble hat..

Will do, I’ll be there every Tuesday evening (subject to partner availability). Had no one to climb with last night