the shizzle > new routes

[Peak][[various routes and bouldering]

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mark20:
Peak Update
[Wyming Brook][Chatsworth][Bradley Quarry] [Cheedale][White Tor][Ladybower Tor][Stanage][Standing Stones]

Wyming Brook
Apartment With Fear E5 6b (6C+!) – Highball rib to the left of Mansion of Invention. Pull out over the heather cornice , or lower off,  from ab rope (tree belay)

Placid House RH E6 6c – As for Placid House, to the flat hold in the middle of the wall, step right and make a couple more tricky moves to the break and easy finishing groove.
This wall has been fully dug off and cleaned

Chatsworth-
Sentinel Prow E6 6b (6C!!!) Toby Wright – Climbs the prow of Sentinel Groove, with a reasonable reach from a left hand undercut pebble, to a hold at the top of the prow, and a direct mantel.

(Anyone had a proper go at Sentintel Groove? Got close but failed on one desperate move. Hihg but a flat landing, good prospect for some decent boulderers to try this above a stack of pads...)
 
Lonely Boy 7A – Compression problem to the right of Shy Boy. Sloped landing -  Pad tied to sapling useful.

Bradley Quarry
Big Brad Wolf E5 6c – Wolf In Cheep Clothing 7A, clip the peg, and balance up the wall above. Pull out over the heather cornice on an ab rope (stake belay – thanks!)

Cheedale
Some bouldering on the nice rock on the left side of Two Tier. A couple of pads and a spotter is useful as they are slightly highball. The start to Simon’s route Ghee Force makes a nice 5+. Just right up the rib is Ghee rib 6A. Right again the orange groove is Diet of Wotsits 6C to a high jug. Right again, starting below the slot and powering up the bulging wall is the pick of the bunch Potbelly 7A. The start of Isolate makes a good 6B+ to the ledge, lower off the bolt out right.
Just to the right again is To Boltly Go 7b+, up the groove of the old route Split Infinitive and bulging rib above. Good rock.
A new little bouldery route at the right end of The Nook is Fadeaway 7c. I’ve done some nice bouldering here too, mainly sit starts to the routes in the mid 6s. A pleasant spot for a sunny day and a picnic. The start to Burnout is a good 7A to the obvious slot.
One new one at Moving Buttress, The Glue Factory 7b+, climbs the wall on sidepulls, right of A Man Called Horse and My Lovely Horse. Now a good trio of short fingery 7s.

White Tor (Derwent Edges)
Wodwo E6 6c / E4 6a / E5 6b– This is a bit of a mystery route, listed as E6 in the BMC Burbage guide, but also claimed at E4 onsight solo (wow!). In reality more like E5 6b, and a good safe route (despite the guide description) through the bulges on rock much less scrittly than you’d expect. Decent.

Ladybower Tor
A lovely spot with some easy bouldering and pleasant views. Details on ukc logbooks. Mostly 4-6Bish, with a lowball 7A, and the best is Johnny’s Slab 6C, a traverse on the slabby block just over the wall. Full details on UKC logbooks.

Stanage
Stupor E5 6c – The right line up the Swooper slab. Siderunner to the right (didn’t seem quite good or independent enough to justify soloing)



Standing Stones
Consumed E5 6c (7A/+!!)– The sidewall on the right side of the crag, in plain sight when walking in from Rimmers Clough. High with a sloped landing (tied spotter recommended). Lovely balancy climbing on perfect rock. Thread belay and 10m rope to clean/inspect.

About 50m in front of the main section of crag is a jumble of big boulders. The landings tend to have some impressive holes in - a number of smaller pads to pack out the landings is preferable to one large pad-
The Recumbent Stone 7B+ Mega lip traverse from the break on the right to finish around the nose on the left
Solexit 6A, Solace 6c+ (fiend) Good slab between the boulders
Take a Pebble 5 (Matt Ferrier a few years ago) – Pleasant little diamond shaped slab opposite
Chuff’s Hole 6C (Jonboy yonks ago), also possible for the tall to move rightwards to the hanging groove at 6C+ but be careful with that landing
There’s a  few other bits and pieces here, and a hard 7Cish project up a steep prow facing the crag. I'll try and get round to a proper little guide for it

Bonjoy:
Good haul! Consumed looks particularly excellent.

grimer:
Ah nice one on Appartment with Fear. I quite enjoyed abseiling down that wall a few times in the spring I brushed up, but never got on, MoI. It looked really hard at the top. I also brushed the wall to the right which looks about E2.

Fiend:
 :punk:

Will Hunt:
Please could you define what is meant by  !, !!, and !!!? Looks interesting.

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