UKBouldering.com

Ryuchi does his thing (Read 5400 times)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#1 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 13, 2021, 08:50:18 am
That's such a cool looking problem, a pure test of strength and power if ever there was one.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#2 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 13, 2021, 04:30:17 pm

ferret

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 545
  • Karma: +40/-4
#3 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 03:01:23 am
That's such a cool looking problem, a pure test of strength and power if ever there was one.
Begging for somebody to ruin in with footwork

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#4 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 08:28:33 am
As I said before, wonder if someone with a bit of height could use that shelf as a launchpad.

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1261
  • Karma: +87/-1
#5 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 08:49:51 am
It could be that using the shelf makes you swing out too far and campussing from directly below is the best option.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#6 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 08:52:45 am
Possibly. We could armchair this one endlessly as neither of us are likely to end up anywhere near it.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#7 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 08:53:53 am
That's such a cool looking problem, a pure test of strength and power if ever there was one.
Begging for somebody to ruin in with footwork

There is some tech going on here. Watch the nice little foot kick into the wall he does on the move to the rail. Like a mini Moon Kick from Cypher.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWxkFbAJlCd/?utm_medium=copy_link

andy popp

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#8 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 09:35:22 am
It could be that using the shelf makes you swing out too far and campussing from directly below is the best option.

That was exactly my thought on seeing it. As others have said, it's an amazing looking problem. Basic and complicated.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9932
  • Karma: +561/-8
#9 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 10:55:33 am
Possibly. We could armchair this one endlessly as neither of us are likely to end up anywhere near it.
I like how you've implied the main reason you can't put these beta theories into practice is due to geography.  :P

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#10 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 12:31:35 pm
I meant "close to" w.r.t geographically and capability!

Banana finger

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 154
  • Karma: +11/-0
  • daft lad
#11 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 12:47:25 pm
we should crowd fund a certain tall guy from Rotherham to do the problem with his feet on the big hold and call it 7c+

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4943
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#12 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 01:04:36 pm
we should crowd fund a certain tall guy from Rotherham to do the problem with his feet on the big hold and call it 7c+

Dense?  ;)

Or Mike?  :lol:

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#13 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 01:43:53 pm
dense is from chadderton

Danny

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 855
  • Karma: +43/-3
#14 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 01:55:08 pm
Amazing stuff. Been following his efforts on this for a while. I agree the potential for lank looks to be there from the armchair. Someone needs to take a jackhammer to the ledge.

1st crux = V15. A literal one move 8C then? Maybe the hardest single move ever climbed? I think he's done the BoD crux too, IIRC.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4943
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#15 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 14, 2021, 02:08:02 pm
dense is from chadderton

He's gone up in my estimations.... :lol:

edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 527
  • Karma: +29/-0
#16 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 27, 2021, 05:50:44 pm


 :bounce:

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#17 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 27, 2021, 06:24:46 pm
Nice nice!

I remember reading about plyometric campussing in OTE decades ago, and there we go...

Hoseyb

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 545
  • Karma: +44/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
#18 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 27, 2021, 09:47:12 pm
Am I the only one keen to see what the crack round to the left looks like... Going by the right-hand one it should be mint!

Otherwise, very impressive, and yes would be interesting to see if someone can break that vicar's triangle

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#19 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 27, 2021, 10:17:50 pm
Yes you are, you pervert :)

MischaHY

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 496
  • Karma: +64/-1
#20 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 28, 2021, 08:54:19 am
Wow. That's such a good looking line. Very inspiring and a good reminder to get that basic power training in. Makes me want to go campus on my board.

Danny

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 855
  • Karma: +43/-3
#21 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 28, 2021, 09:12:22 am
Instant classic surely? I do wonder whether someone will break the sequence, but will be all the more amazing if it holds.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#22 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 28, 2021, 09:32:02 am
Pretty incredible to watch, amazing moves.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#23 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 28, 2021, 09:51:39 am
Instant classic surely? I do wonder whether someone will break the sequence, but will be all the more amazing if it holds.
People can stop waffling on about the "get your feet in the big ledge" idea, for the time being at least  ;)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#24 Re: Ryuchi does his thing
December 29, 2021, 08:39:36 am
Wonder how long before power tool companies start sponsoring climbers, nice product placement there.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal