[yetix]

Yes, I do know how they work

Dunno though, it is a weird one and goes against basically everything I've ever learned about finger strength training!

Exactly. I bet even Ondra doesn't do so much maximal finger strength work. Id be interested to hear what Lattice think about this kind of protocol and add some science. Or even what Barrows or Stu think may be going on.

Would also like to hear.

Also thought ondra for silence was training power on a campus board 6 days a week multiple sessions a day? Pretty sure there was a vid and interview in this regard? Only mention as you mentioned ondra in that regard.

I know when measles did something Similiar he did only for like 10 days and referenced I think some form of Bulgarian strength training regime for weights or something? (turns out more see below)

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27668.msg539588.html#msg539588

Also talks about Similiar here 45 sessions in 5 weeks

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27598.msg537648.html#msg537648

And mentions the Bulgarian Olympic team in the 80s using similair to make big strength gains, idk just thought I'd put it all here...

[remus]

Yes, I do know how they work

Dunno though, it is a weird one and goes against basically everything I've ever learned about finger strength training!

Exactly. I bet even Ondra doesn't do so much maximal finger strength work. Id be interested to hear what Lattice think about this kind of protocol and add some science. Or even what Barrows or Stu think may be going on.

(Not an official lattice opinion)

I think the recruitment theory is about right. Typically you only see maximal strength 'gains' like that if you are pretty poorly recruited to start with so it'd be interesting to understand what your training has been like for the last few months Liam (sorry, too lazy to go back through power club).

I assume this isn't a long term strategy? Seems like it would work as a kickstart but with a significant risk of injury if you tried to keep it up longer term (i.e. after you hit a plateau).

[Wellsy]

The Bulgarian method, as a point of historical context, only worked because the Bulgarians were juiced into another plane of existence. As was everyone else of course, but still.

[User deactivated.]

(Not an official lattice opinion)

I think the recruitment theory is about right. Typically you only see maximal strength 'gains' like that if you are pretty poorly recruited to start with so it'd be interesting to understand what your training has been like for the last few months Liam (sorry, too lazy to go back through power club).

I assume this isn't a long term strategy? Seems like it would work as a kickstart but with a significant risk of injury if you tried to keep it up longer term (i.e. after you hit a plateau).

I'd been doing max hangs once or twice a week prior to this and bouldering outside or on the board, making no progress but still feeling ok outside (7C in a session or 2). A few weeks ago I took a rest week which had a really negative impact and i've struggled to get it back. When I plateau I will change something.

[Fultonius]

77kg still, this seems to be a good natural training weight - I'm still actively trying to make sure I eat enough and have stabilised here.

Mon

Tue@ newsroom - general bouldering session, felt a bit flat / no gains from last week

Wed: nowt

Thur: nowt , long shift at work

Frid: Short boulder session. Pretty unstructured, just trying new hardish problems. Flashed a white slab at propstore *meant to be 7a+ but probably french started the crux, and a black slab 6c+, but not much progress on steep stuff.  Then did some gym work: face pulls, bench up to 50kg (i'm weak as shit at bench) and wrist curls as my TFCC / weak wrist is coming back. Pub with mates.

Sat: Nowt. Bit hungover and had to strip out the alternator from the van.

Sunday: newsroom. Warm up, then some circuits and finished off with some problems. Need more focus....  Flashed a 6c+ black boulder and got a 7a I'd struggled with last session. Got a load of 6cish things fairly quickly, but dropped a few on flash I should have got.