[Duma]

M - work, 12 hrs.
T -
W - TCA, hard bouldering, managed 3 more blues and got close on a couple more
T -
F - TCA, hard bouldering, only one more blue ticked (not one I'd tried on Wednesday) but lots of trying hard.
S - TCA, easy bouldering. Just a pootle with daughter. Did one white (6C-7A), it was a slab though.
S - TCA, hard bouldering, 2 more blues. Think easy volume yesterday did affect me a bit, no real snap and skin a bit thin. Maybe just a shit night's sleep though.

72 kg. Better, but still want to get closer to 70. Always think of 72 as a wake up call.

[duncan]

Thanks Duma

Week 8 and last of single parenting.

M - Shoulder conditioning: press ups, pull-ups, side planks, handstands.  Hip and knee conditioning: frog squats, single-leg squats. Pull-ups x3 reps, weighted to 91kg.
T - Fingerboard, ‘aeropower’ on a ~35mm edge: 7s on / 3s off. 12 reps. x 3 sets. (failed at 9 reps. on the last one).
W - Squats: frog style and pistols. 15km walk.
T - Fingerboard, ‘aeropower’ on a ~35mm edge.10 reps x 4 sets. 7km walk.
F - 5km walk. Exhausted, classic viral wpe-out, took a lateral flow test just in case (negative).
S - 5km walk. Very light shoulder conditioning: handstands, side planks and scapular setting. Still wiped-out.
S - 7km walk, which was probably overdoing it a bit as I had to have a lie-down after.

Two minutes of the repeaters, an improvement. Still feels like everything is about to break on the last couple of reps. but all good so far. As with real climbing, capable of very little volume so feels like the right thing to be training.

Childcare has just improved 100% (!). Unfortunately I have caught another bug.

[User deactivated.]

Been struggling with random loss of strength over the last few weeks and have decided to brute force some gains back via essentially extreme overtraining and going right to failure a lot more. This approach has worked for me before.

M: bradder's board. Took me ages to get going and couldn't pull as hard as I wanted. This was the wake up call to change things up as I've felt like this for a while.

T: am - max hangs
Pm - max hangs, board (volume)

W: am - max hangs
Pm - max hangs, rings

T: max hangs

F: am - max hangs
Pm - max hangs, board. Took down a crimpy cross over project that I've been trying for 6 weeks. Then did 5 'hards' 1st try which is unheard of.

S: am - max hangs
Pm - rings, general strength

S: Board - took down another hard project in 2 tries that I thought was highly speculative when I set it weeks ago!

I know on paper this looks like an injury waiting to happen but it doesn't feel like it and it's working! 

[shark]

Thanks Duma


11.7-9 Average 161.7lbs up 0.1lbs

M. AM Grim. Incessant rain turning to sleet. Home FB warm up. PM Reluctantly left home. Snowing on the tops, atrocious driving conditions. Better at Tor. Glassy but improved after cleaning. Some hangs. Throw move at third attempt. Next two moves together first attempt. Cross thru third attempt. Two attempts from start first failing on throw and second not so good. Two attempts from pocket and pinch only doing one move. THFML x3 to finish. Roads safer driving home
Late eve. Max deadhangs session on ergo edge (16mm) First for a long time. Best hangs HC +20kg x 7secs and Drag +25kg x 6 secs.

T

W AM Foundry FB warmup Auto belay in Furnace. Main Wall with Keith and Donnie. Couple of easier routes then tried the white 7a again (more like outdooor 7c) Got higher than last Saturday then dogged to top and worked out final crux moves. Two more goes from ground getting a clip higher each go but still not got to the crux. Couple of easier routes on autobelay to finish

T

F AM Home FB warm up. PM Tor. Soaked and dripping. Tried Bens but not happening. Ok on individual moves but couldn’t string two moves together so obviously not recovered from weds which was annoying.

S

S

Annoyed at myself for going to the Tor not recovered sufficiently. Hopefully it will go better there tomorrow.

[Duma]

Liam that sounds insane! Good board crushing though, so it seems to have broken you out of your slump. What are your max hang sessions like? Seems crazy to be able to manage 8 sessions in 6 days...

[Wellsy]

Monday - should have rested. Stupidly did not, fucked around trying a 6C on the moonboard I should have done and then some circuits. OHP 12.5kg dumbbells 3 x 10, Bench 3 x 10 at 20kgs dumbbells.

Tuesday - rested

Wednesday - weighted pullups, 3 x 5 with 16kgs added weight. Core ring rollouts on knees, front lever raises 3 x 5, 3 x 5 theraband twists. Long and very productive bouldering session doing some reasonably hard stuff including some single moves set by friends.

Thursday - rest

Friday - Bumlog Millionaire. Let me say that I do not believe this problem is naturally occurring. I believe it was carved, nay, spawned by some dark force of primeval horror. It can 100% get fucked. I have never hated and desired anything in such equal passionate intensity before. I am filled with a terrible hatred and have been reduced to humility. Going back next Tues.

Friday - CWorks Christmas do

Saturday - recovery

Sunday - recovered more but did go and do core (3 x 10 leg raises, 3 x 10 bar windscreen wipers with limited range, 3 x 35 seconds raised knee hangs), some moderate bouldering. Also accidentally did 8 reps of 10 seconds on THE BM 20mm edge with 30kgs added weight. Oh well.

Feeling: mixed in general.

[Aussiegav]

Thanks for starting this week

Monday
Climbed at Awesome Walls. Aim of the session was to Redpoint a 6c.
Warmed up on the auto belays.
I walked around and shopped for a 6c to Redpoint for the session. I picked out one on the 15 degree Speed Wall.
My first go was a bolt to bolt go, checking the moves etc. I could do all the moves first go. Refined some sequences and then came down.
Second tie in I worked the crux and finish. Third tie in I went for the send but slipped at the crux. I then ate some food but this made me feel tired.
Fourth tie in, 2nd Redpoint attempt, fell at the same point. I came down and laid on the ground and I fell asleep. Probably slept for 10-15 mins???
I woke feeling fresh & better than previously. I tied in for a 3rd attempt, feeling better & confident. The route felt more fluid & I was able to comfortably climb through the crux and finished the route without any stress or effort.
Very pleased & relieved I achieved what I set out to do. Redpoint a 6c.

Tuesday
A bit tired from Monday’s Redpoint session. Aim to clock up mileage Onsights around 6a/6a+ range.

I warmed up on auto belays, 5a, 5b & 5b+.
Got the rope out for Onsights.
5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6a, 6a+, 6a, 6b.. Was tired at the end. But feel it’s coming together & getting fitter.

Wednesday:
Peloton 45min ride

Thursday rest.

Friday:
Rest

Saturday:
Limit boulder session.

A dawn session at the School. Hoped to listen to TMS coverage of the Ashes first test in Brisbane. But woke to find the match was over. So listen to the highlights while I warmed up.

Warmed up with some Splat traverses - feet on the floor.
Feet on Campus board pulls 2-5 match finish
Warm up 11 problems 3min rests. Ranging from 5+ to 6a+

Limit Boulder On Christmas Curry 6c. The aim
Was to link the first 4 moves and stick the hold.
Spent 45mins on it with 4min rests between. Managed to do the link on the 8th go.

Finished with conditioning.
4x5 body weight power pull ups.
4x4 thrusters. Bar plus 15kg.

Evening 60min peloton ride

Sunday
45min ride on the peloton.

[Will Hunt]

A single solitary board session this week. Got close to Brush Boys, dropping the match of Big H at the end. Pleased with that progression.

Another weekend of shite weather. Somewhat relieved that I was on family duties!

[mr chaz]

Dad Club.

M. Partner’s waters broke, off to hospital we go.
T. Welcome Baby Leo!
W–S. Basically taking pictures of Leo followed by spells of mild to severe panic.

Maybe I will sneak some finger boarding in next week.

Psyched!

[Bradders]

M - board session with Liam. Warmed up then managed to do my Ben's Groove Sit replica for the first time, second go from the start after trying the moves. Typical to have done it as soon as I decided to sack off the real thing for a while. Goal now is to be running laps by the time Spring comes round. Psyched anyway as it's taken a bunch of sessions. Attempts on 3 other projects, did a few moves in isolation but not linking many. When started to feel power dropping did 5 medium problems with a 4.5kg weight belt. Finished by boring Liam to death with foot on campus ladders, x8 60 secs on 90 secs off.

Tu - rest

W - lunchtime fingerboard. 3x 10s half crimp 26mm edge +40kg, 5 seconds in reserve, 3 min rests. Then 20mm edge pick ups, 6x each of 10s on middle 2 and front 2, upped weight to 26kg on all of them which felt good, couple of seconds in reserve.

Th - board session. Warm up was decent, felt good. Attempts on 4 projects. Close to doing two of them, tried hard. On another close to linking two moves together that I've been able to do in isolation for a while but have never linked. Might be one move that's beyond me though. Miles away on the 4th. Finished with a bit of conditioning, bicep curls, leg lifts and lateral raises.

F - Ilkley in the morning. Lovely day. Only had a little over 2hrs. Haphazard warm up just doing moves. Started trying Three More Reps but basically wasn't warm enough for it and therefore couldn't fathom the first tricky move. Switched to Bernie the Bolt when I was actually warmed up and did pretty well, basically figured it out and had a good go getting fairly high. Lots of goes in quick succession due to limited time but no joy. Super keen for this boulder!

Sa - rest, travel to see family

Su - travel back from family visit. Late session, didn't start until after 8pm. Fingerboard first, 6x 10s half crimp 26mm edge +45kg, 2 seconds in reserve, 3 min rests. Maybe next session can push the weight up again as feeling fairly solid now. Then warm ups on the board before doubles, six problems twice each, no rest between reps, 4 min rests. Dropped the difficulty slightly on the problems I was trying and only dropped a couple of reps. Finished with pull ups, external rotations and aerocap; just 8 mins of climbing and shaking. Didn't finish until after 10pm so felt like a good effort getting it done.

[User deactivated.]

Might be one move that's beyond me though. Miles away on the 4th.

Assume this is the throw out right to the small crimp? I now have a replica of this move on my board 

[JohnM]

M - nowt.

T - Booster jab, 5km walk.

W - Drove to Italy for indoor climbing. Horrendous winter driving conditions coinciding with 3 warning lights suddenly coming on in the car relating to the breaks and stabilization system. Arrived at the wall stressed and with bad sciatica, upper back pain, a sore shoulder and feeling fatigued. Despite this it was a decent session of bouldering and routes!

T - Shoulder stability, hamstring exercises, stretching and foam rolling for back and shoulders. 5km walk.

F - Trail run 14.82km 427m. Hamstring exercises and stretching. Shoulder stability. Finger boarding BM2000 lower outer edges BW +15kg, Lattice rung BW +20kg. Elbow rehab and rotator cuff isolation weights.

S - Ski tour 9.33km 912m.

S - Ski tour 11.77km 1,108m. Hamstring exercises and stretching. Shoulder stability + core. Finger boarding BM2000 lower outer edges BW +15kg, Lattice rung BW +35kg. Elbow rehab and rotator cuff isolation weights.

Crappy start to the week with a lot of pains all over. Finished the week feeling pretty good, particularly in the fingers. Matching my previous weighted hangs easily without really training them in the last few months. Think this is due to improvement in my shoulders as opposed to finger strength. Need more weights!

[Bradders]

Might be one move that's beyond me though. Miles away on the 4th.

Assume this is the throw out right to the small crimp? I now have a replica of this move on my board 

Ha no didn't try that on Thurs (so make that 2 moves that are a bit beyond me from the current project set ), it's the 4th move on the gaston one. Can only just about hold the position!

[yetix]

Liam that sounds insane! Good board crushing though, so it seems to have broken you out of your slump. What are your max hang sessions like? Seems crazy to be able to manage 8 sessions in 6 days...

Also curious about this, mad volume as you noted yourself Liam, but I'm pretty sure measles did something Similiar for 10 days or so a few years back and spoke positively

[Duncan Disorderly]

Congrats Mr Chaz... 

Am I injured or not... Club.

***Before and after any climbing add 20mins theraband, shoulder conditioning and stretching (cba adding to each entry)***

M: Routes @ AW - Still feeling it from Saturday night so just pottered for a bit and bailed early.
T: Shoulder conditioning and stretching.
W: Redpoint session @ AW - Rinsed tricky 7a+ first try... YYFY!
T: Shoulder conditioning and stretching.
F: AW with kids - Easy bouldering with kids then managed to get away and have a good Moonboard session while they argued with each other/dicked about - Did about 7 of the 6A & 6A+ problems either 1st or second go, worked a couple more and failed on some 6B's... Grades on this thing are mental! Felt worked tho!
S: AW with kids again (glutton for punishment) - Daughter did her 1st F6a on the auto-belays, burning off her overconfident, 5 years older, brother in the process... Boy did well too, making progress on his project and climbing & chatting with random wall dudes... Proud dad moments! Did a few easy routes...
S: AW on me own (bliss) - 8 sets of 20mm max hangs +10kg (approx 90% of current absolute max) 6 - 12s to failure.. 3 x 4 routes on autobelays up to F6b+ wasted!!

Did a fair bit this week and have made a decision to not make any decision about the shoulder (which itself is a decision  ) for a bit... I'm still finding that there's a definite weakness in the shoulder and I'm definitely tentative throwing for holds on the board with that arm since diagnosis (probably no bad thing)... Doing a lot of conditioning work (even snapped me theraband on Wednesday) and definitely feeling like an injury I can manage at the moment (some mild discomfort but no pain)... Enjoying seeing the kids do well and nice to get some things ticked, even if it's just indoors... Got a flight booked for Spain in Jan so crossing all fingers and toes that covid doesn't scupper it....
 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing. Not so bad.
Tue - 20' session.
Wed - boxing bag.
Thu - new DL PB. Weights.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing.
Sun - 1'30" EMOM high pulls 5x10 60 kg. 1'30" EMOM clean 3x10 60 kg. Farmer's 100 kg 30/30 ×12. Beautiful.

Enjoying my board climbing a lot as of late. This is a serious problem.

[User deactivated.]

Liam that sounds insane! Good board crushing though, so it seems to have broken you out of your slump. What are your max hang sessions like? Seems crazy to be able to manage 8 sessions in 6 days...

Also curious about this, mad volume as you noted yourself Liam, but I'm pretty sure measles did something Similiar for 10 days or so a few years back and spoke positively

Sorry Duma, I missed your post initially.

I did this a couple of years ago and made pretty ridiculous gains, pushing my max boulder grade from 7B to 7C in about a month. I think I struggle with recruitment more than most and *speculating* from years of deadlifting prior to climbing I have quite a lot of muscle in my forearms  to actually recruit, so maybe that's why this has been effective for me.

Each session is usually 8-12 max hangs after progressively building up. There's usually always 3-4 half crimp hangs, then 2-3 of either drag, full crimp, micro edges, or even picking up the 'wrist wrench' and lately i've also been adding some half crimp pick ups. I vary my hang times from 5 seconds up to a maximum of 12.

This time around, or at least over the last week, i've only seen a slow increase in performance on the fingerboard but i'm pulling a lot harder on the board. Last time I did this both went up a lot, but if I recall correctly it took about 2 weeks before the gains really kicked in so fingers crossed for this week 

[yetix]

So you'd do on some days 2 sessions of x8-12 max hangs? How close to maximumal are we talking? I've done stuff like 85-90% Similiar for a day or 2 before but never so much volume

Do you do the same session each time or do you have 3-4 sessions you're switching between?

[Adam Lincoln]

Been struggling with random loss of strength over the last few weeks and have decided to brute force some gains back via essentially extreme overtraining and going right to failure a lot more. This approach has worked for me before.

M: bradder's board. Took me ages to get going and couldn't pull as hard as I wanted. This was the wake up call to change things up as I've felt like this for a while.

T: am - max hangs
Pm - max hangs, board (volume)

W: am - max hangs
Pm - max hangs, rings

T: max hangs

F: am - max hangs
Pm - max hangs, board. Took down a crimpy cross over project that I've been trying for 6 weeks. Then did 5 'hards' 1st try which is unheard of.

S: am - max hangs
Pm - rings, general strength

S: Board - took down another hard project in 2 tries that I thought was highly speculative when I set it weeks ago!

I know on paper this looks like an injury waiting to happen but it doesn't feel like it and it's working! 

Don't normally read this section but 

I doubt even the very elite in the world do that much max hang stuff. You do realise how max hangs work don't you and how gains are made? 

[User deactivated.]

So you'd do on some days 2 sessions of x8-12 max hangs? How close to maximumal are we talking? I've done stuff like 85-90% Similiar for a day or 2 before but never so much volume

Do you do the same session each time or do you have 3-4 sessions you're switching between?

90-100%

sessions aren't fixed, and are almost pulled at random but I try to get in lots of variety and track everything so that I can try to beat it next time it comes around. it might go something like:
 
am: 4 half crimps on 25mm edge, 3 full crimps on 6mm's (weighted), 3 drags on 20mm, 2 wrist wrench pick ups
pm: 4 half crimps on 20mm edge, 2 back 3, 2 open hand pick ups
etc

Don't normally read this section but 

I doubt even the very elite in the world do that much max hang stuff. You do realise how max hangs work don't you and how gains are made? 

Yes, I do know how they work - I do lots of max hangs, every day and usually twice a day for a few weeks and I come out way stronger and go up 2 font grades. At least that's how it worked last time.

I'm not recommending it for anyone else, just posting what i've done this week and answering questions.

[Wellsy]

Do you find that the weight you can add shoots up during that time i.e way faster than you could have made any "real" strength gains? Cos that would lend credence to your idea that its all about recruitment. You're honing into your actual max across a few weeks by doing what feels maximal as your fingers remember how to pull properly hard.

[User deactivated.]

Yes, more or less. Although last time I was already starting at a high point and then added an extra 17.5 kg to my half crimp over a month. This time i'm starting about 10kg down from my best ever and I am up 2.5kg from where I started so far.

[Bradders]

Yes, I do know how they work

I think he means more generally how max hangs usually require a lot of rest and recovery.

My guess is your idea about recruitment and muscle from deadlifting is about right, meaning you're nowhere near your actual max. Hence, less recovery required.

Dunno though, it is a weird one and goes against basically everything I've ever learned about finger strength training!

[Adam Lincoln]

Yes, I do know how they work

Dunno though, it is a weird one and goes against basically everything I've ever learned about finger strength training!

Exactly. I bet even Ondra doesn't do so much maximal finger strength work. Id be interested to hear what Lattice think about this kind of protocol and add some science. Or even what Barrows or Stu think may be going on.

[iain]

Big news Chaz, congrats 


General goals:  stay injury free, maintain finger/general prehab routines
Short: find (and hopefully do) some bouldering projects, it's all a bit wet and humid just now :/
Medium: Unleashing and Why Me in the spring

Weight: 69kg average


Suspected Covid turned out not to be, (at least that's what multiple tests including PCR said) but something viral interfered with the week.

Mon - Intended limit board session was sub par but did what I could

Tues - found out I was a close contact

Wed - Symptoms had appeared by this point but tried general board session anyway cause you never know, sub par and stopped early and decided to rest/recover

Thurs to Sat - nothing except for Friday where I had a short walk in the (brief) Cheedale sun scoping out what might be dry, got laughed at for my optimism 

Sun - PM short walk the tentative evening Depot session which was actually ok. Wasn't feeling amazing, could be tail end of illness or just not having done much for a few days


Should be a better week and back on the aerocap sessions.

[yetix]

Yes, I do know how they work

Dunno though, it is a weird one and goes against basically everything I've ever learned about finger strength training!

Exactly. I bet even Ondra doesn't do so much maximal finger strength work. Id be interested to hear what Lattice think about this kind of protocol and add some science. Or even what Barrows or Stu think may be going on.

Would also like to hear.

Also thought ondra for silence was training power on a campus board 6 days a week multiple sessions a day? Pretty sure there was a vid and interview in this regard? Only mention as you mentioned ondra in that regard.

I know when measles did something Similiar he did only for like 10 days and referenced I think some form of Bulgarian strength training regime for weights or something? (turns out more see below)

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27668.msg539588.html#msg539588

Also talks about Similiar here 45 sessions in 5 weeks

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27598.msg537648.html#msg537648

And mentions the Bulgarian Olympic team in the 80s using similair to make big strength gains, idk just thought I'd put it all here...

[remus]

Yes, I do know how they work

Dunno though, it is a weird one and goes against basically everything I've ever learned about finger strength training!

Exactly. I bet even Ondra doesn't do so much maximal finger strength work. Id be interested to hear what Lattice think about this kind of protocol and add some science. Or even what Barrows or Stu think may be going on.

(Not an official lattice opinion)

I think the recruitment theory is about right. Typically you only see maximal strength 'gains' like that if you are pretty poorly recruited to start with so it'd be interesting to understand what your training has been like for the last few months Liam (sorry, too lazy to go back through power club).

I assume this isn't a long term strategy? Seems like it would work as a kickstart but with a significant risk of injury if you tried to keep it up longer term (i.e. after you hit a plateau).

[Wellsy]

The Bulgarian method, as a point of historical context, only worked because the Bulgarians were juiced into another plane of existence. As was everyone else of course, but still.

[User deactivated.]

(Not an official lattice opinion)

I think the recruitment theory is about right. Typically you only see maximal strength 'gains' like that if you are pretty poorly recruited to start with so it'd be interesting to understand what your training has been like for the last few months Liam (sorry, too lazy to go back through power club).

I assume this isn't a long term strategy? Seems like it would work as a kickstart but with a significant risk of injury if you tried to keep it up longer term (i.e. after you hit a plateau).

I'd been doing max hangs once or twice a week prior to this and bouldering outside or on the board, making no progress but still feeling ok outside (7C in a session or 2). A few weeks ago I took a rest week which had a really negative impact and i've struggled to get it back. When I plateau I will change something.

[Fultonius]

77kg still, this seems to be a good natural training weight - I'm still actively trying to make sure I eat enough and have stabilised here.

Mon

Tue@ newsroom - general bouldering session, felt a bit flat / no gains from last week

Wed: nowt

Thur: nowt , long shift at work

Frid: Short boulder session. Pretty unstructured, just trying new hardish problems. Flashed a white slab at propstore *meant to be 7a+ but probably french started the crux, and a black slab 6c+, but not much progress on steep stuff.  Then did some gym work: face pulls, bench up to 50kg (i'm weak as shit at bench) and wrist curls as my TFCC / weak wrist is coming back. Pub with mates.

Sat: Nowt. Bit hungover and had to strip out the alternator from the van.

Sunday: newsroom. Warm up, then some circuits and finished off with some problems. Need more focus....  Flashed a 6c+ black boulder and got a 7a I'd struggled with last session. Got a load of 6cish things fairly quickly, but dropped a few on flash I should have got.