[Duncan Disorderly]

I agree... I guess as climbing becomes more professional and these guys are actually able to make a living by just doing it  these restrictions will probably become all the more frustrating... As you say there will be ways round it but it's definitely going to be more difficult for the forseeable (hence my "future looks bleak comment"...). Personally 90 days seems like bloody ages and I'd love to be able to swan off to some sun kissed crag for that long to do the thing I love... But then I'm a 47 year old dad with a job and a mortgage 

[Bradders]

Personally 90 days seems like bloody ages and I'd love to be able to swan off to some sun kissed crag for that long to do the thing I love... But then I'm a 47 year old dad with a job and a mortgage 

Haha I know right, 90 days is about 70 days beyond dream territory for most! Guess life is what you make of it though, if you can you should.

[Teaboy]

Do the genuine elite who climb outside still do trips of that length? People like Ondra, Stefano and Megos seem to spend half their time at home training

[remus]

Do the genuine elite who climb outside still do trips of that length? People like Ondra, Stefano and Megos seem to spend half their time at home training

I get the impression that monumental trips are bit out of fashion because you get pretty detrained spending multiple months at the same place, trying the same stuff. It seems pretty common to do lots of 'short' (i.e 2-4 weeks) trips interspersed with periods of training to keep topped up.

[spidermonkey09]

I think 90 days will be plenty for most of the UK crushers to get stuff done. Roughing it under a bridge or in a campsite like in the days of yore ( )  is really bad for your general conditioning. 

[Adam Lincoln]

I think 90 days will be plenty for most of the UK crushers to get stuff done. Roughing it under a bridge or in a campsite like in the days of yore ( )  is really bad for your general conditioning.

Doesn’t everyone have camper-vans #vanlife nowadays?

[spidermonkey09]

Even that is pretty shit for general conditioning I think. Obviously depends on luxury level but I can't imagine that one sleeps/eats as well as in a house and you can't do any training either. Would have thought the most efficient method is what the top operators seem to do- 3/4 week trip, then go away and train and come back to tick it.

[Paul B]

On a positive note, something that has struck me about both Hamish and Max Milne particularly is the shear brass balls on them! They both seem to be incredibly bullish / confident about their prospects as members of the elite, which is a little awe inspiring.

I've got a lot of time for Hamish after bumping into him (and Charlie) on a trip to Northumberland with Peewee a few years ago. He didn't quite know how to deal with Peewee having a full on meltdown next to him on various problems (most people would've been excited by just how close they were to getting up some good/hard stuff) but just kept his head down and got stuff done, quietly and calmly (the word bullish certainly wouldn't enter my mind). He was clearly talented but seemed to lack a bit of strength and power which has changed somewhat. Impressive.

[edshakey]

Do the genuine elite who climb outside still do trips of that length? People like Ondra, Stefano and Megos seem to spend half their time at home training

Agree with the point generally, but didn't Adam say he's going to Arco for 5 months? In that Magnus interview? Might have misremembered but I do remember being very surprised!

[SA Chris]

Even that is pretty shit for general conditioning I think. Obviously depends on luxury level but I can't imagine that one sleeps/eats as well as in a house and you can't do any training either.

Worked for Honnold aka #thebestclimberintheworld.

You'd swear Europe was the only place to climb in the world. Yes, the new situation is not ideal, but once you've used your quote there are many other places to go.

[teestub]

Other places are slightly harder to get ones camper van to though!

[Adam Lincoln]

Other places are slightly harder to get ones camper van to though!

And not as good as limestone in Europe.

[jwi]

Do the genuine elite who climb outside still do trips of that length? People like Ondra, Stefano and Megos seem to spend half their time at home training

Agree with the point generally, but didn't Adam say he's going to Arco for 5 months? In that Magnus interview? Might have misremembered but I do remember being very surprised!

They have apartments for rent in Arco as well... and Stefano Ghisolfi lives there so I imagine there are some acceptable training facilities.

[James Malloch]

Do the genuine elite who climb outside still do trips of that length? People like Ondra, Stefano and Megos seem to spend half their time at home training

Agree with the point generally, but didn't Adam say he's going to Arco for 5 months? In that Magnus interview? Might have misremembered but I do remember being very surprised!

I think so, but he’s also dedicated a lot of time to training for the Olympics and said he’s ready to spend a lot more time on rock now.

[ali k]

They have apartments for rent in Arco as well...and Stefano Ghisolfi lives there so I imagine there are some acceptable training facilities.

Yeh this ^^

Ondra must be pretty comfortable now. Sure he can afford an apartment between him and his entourage. Can't imagine he'll be doing much #vanlife now, especially through the winter. And if he's losing power he can just nip to the wall.

Very different to sleeping in the dirt and doing a few chin ups on tree branches.

[Paul B]

Other places are slightly harder to get ones camper van to though!

...and are substantially more expensive with their own bureaucracy attached!

[SA Chris]

You know, only being able to spend half the year climbing in the EU, I somehow think they'll cope with the hardship.

[shark]

On a positive note, something that has struck me about both Hamish and Max Milne particularly is the shear brass balls on them! They both seem to be incredibly bullish / confident about their prospects as members of the elite, which is a little awe inspiring.

Maybe they read Mastermind

[Bradders]

On a positive note, something that has struck me about both Hamish and Max Milne particularly is the shear brass balls on them! They both seem to be incredibly bullish / confident about their prospects as members of the elite, which is a little awe inspiring.

I've got a lot of time for Hamish after bumping into him (and Charlie) on a trip to Northumberland with Peewee a few years ago. He didn't quite know how to deal with Peewee having a full on meltdown next to him on various problems (most people would've been excited by just how close they were to getting up some good/hard stuff) but just kept his head down and got stuff done, quietly and calmly (the word bullish certainly wouldn't enter my mind). He was clearly talented but seemed to lack a bit of strength and power which has changed somewhat. Impressive.

Bullish is just how their social media stuff comes across to me, as well as what they seem to be doing. It's not meant as a slight. I could have said arrogant, which to be honest some of it is, e.g. talking about "[taking] over the circuit", or every time Max holds his hand to his ear in a comp, which to be honest I do find grating.

I'm really not criticising though, just observing that trying a 9b+ when you've only what two(?) 9as to your name is something I can only imagine someone with an extraordinary amount of confidence and self belief doing. That's certainly very impressive.

Anyway, on a different note I saw this post from Hazel today complaining about not being able to spend all winter in Spain. The heart bleeds for them with jealousy!

[abarro81]

You know, only being able to spend half the year climbing in the EU, I somehow think they'll cope with the hardship.

The comp climbers will need to save a chunk of that for comps, and may want to train in Europe too. First world problems obviously, but more of a PITA than if you live there or than how it used to be. Still, who needs freedom now we have our freedom back...

P.s. I'm not excited about the 'next gen' routes in the UK cos they'll largely be a bit shit compared to the ones in Europe and the US! Unless anyone has discovered a new wonder crag.

[Paul B]

I could have said arrogant, which to be honest some of it is, e.g. talking about "[taking] over the circuit", or every time Max holds his hand to his ear in a comp, which to be honest I do find grating.

I'm just glad that social media didn't exist when I was younger!

[petejh]

You know, only being able to spend half the year climbing in the EU, I somehow think they'll cope with the hardship.

The comp climbers will need to save a chunk of that for comps, and may want to train in Europe too. First world problems obviously, but more of a PITA than if you live there or than how it used to be. Still, who needs freedom now we have our freedom back...

P.s. I'm not excited about the 'next gen' routes in the UK cos they'll largely be a bit shit compared to the ones in Europe and the US! Unless anyone has discovered a new wonder crag.

Fucks sake just get a year long visa, it isn't hard. You'll then have 1.25 years in Europe in, umm, 1.5 years. Whinging cunts 

And go and put up 9b+ FAs on world class Irish limestone mega caves that are super-quick drying and in good condition from April - September, unlike Spain. And it isn't far, or expensive, and no 90-day rule. Whinging cunts 

No imagination, follow the herd, post about it on social media. Fuck off. 


(the above is said -partly- tongue in cheek)

[teestub]

And go and put up 9b+ FAs on world class Irish limestone mega caves that are super-quick drying and in good condition from May - September, unlike Spain. And it isn't far, or expensive. Whinging cunts 

I knew you’d be on banging your Inis Mor drum as soon as Barrows said there were no good projects 😂 although I guess that is still EU rather than UK!

Think if I was a sport climber, I’d still rather go to the Barcelona area and get some sun on the Balearic coast rather than get battered by the Atlantic! No spirit of adventure these days…

[abarro81]

Are those caves actually dry most of that time or just "dry" in that they're not seeping but covered in sea grease ming like most seaside caves?

[petejh]

Dry and far less ming-prone than LPT. Which you'd know if you had any sense of adventure and exploration.