UKBouldering.com

Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021 (Read 4233 times)

Aussiegav

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +29/-10
    • Climberbiker.
Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 09:23:44 am
Hope the admins don’t mind me starting. What a rubbish week weather wise. Hope some folk managed to get outside.

Leading up to Christmas so I hope people are managing to finish off and complete their goals for 2021 before the festivities start.


I’m Starting a new 6 week block. Introduced a dedicated lead session at awesome walls. Need more variety in my training and also develop route climbing skill.

Monday
Rest

Tuesday

Awesome Walls after work.
Warmed up on two auto belays 5c & 6a.
Then lead the following routes;
5b Redpoint repeat ascent
6a Redpoint repeat ascent
6a Onsight
6a+ Onsight
6a Onsight
6a+ Onsight
6b Onsight
6b+ Onsight
6a Onsight
5c Onsight
Really good session, still focusing on getting mileage and build a good base.


Wednesday: rest

Thursday
8 sets of repeaters til failure. 1:1 work rest ratio. Improved my time under tension quite a lot this session for last time on 4 December. Since then I have been doing a lot more route climbing, which is what I’ve put this improvement down to.


Friday:
Rest

Saturday:
Limit boulder session.

Early morning session at the School
Splat Board traverses

10s warm up hangs x2
35mm
30mm
25mm
Campus board pulls 2-5 match (feet on)

Warm up 12 problems 2.5min rests. From 5+ to 6a+ on the Moonboards (2017 & 2019 sets)

Limit boulder session
Flailed miserably on the 50 degree for 30mins
Then tried a 6a+on the 2017 Moonboard. Couldn’t stick the dyno to the small square hold.
I felt weak and flailed terribly. Battled with negative thoughts of being weak and shit.
 I think it’s a combination of; not picking the right problems to try: maybe tired from the repeaters on Thursday night.
Now I’m having a dedicated lead climbing session at Awesome Walls every week . I just don’t think I will get much benefit from that single repeater to failure session. I’m going to skip it next week and see how the limit bouldering session goes.


finished with 4sets of 5 power pull ups at body weight with 4min rests




Sunday
45min ride on the peloton.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4315
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#1 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 10:38:32 am
Nice one Old Fella,

Weight 76.5kg seems pretty stable and eating more.

Mon:Face pulls 3 x 12 blue tb
Dumbell plank flys 10 x 2 each side
Pull ups 1 x 5
12 x 4
FB. BM2k small edges +4.5kg 10s x 3
20mm back 3 10s x 3
20mm front 3 drag + 4.5kg 10s x 1
20mm front 3 HC Bw 10s x 2
Wrist extensor dumbell extensions. 15 each side 4.5kg x 2
Tuesday:light hip mobility yoga,
Wednesday nowt
Thursday: TCA Newsroom. Some pinks and blacks, too social and unfocused but good craic.
Sunday: tca newsroom to warm up, fuse blew, cycled to prop store. Just generally trying pinks and blacks. Some flashes (one easy black, mean to be 6C+ but....) and got close on a few blacks but feeling a bit underpowered. Didn't sleep well Thursday or Friday night so maybe that's not helped.

mr chaz

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 452
  • Karma: +59/-0
#2 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 11:14:40 am
Cheers Oldfella

M.
T.
W. Shed session. Bit of TRX and a few deadhangs to warm up. Then into the main event: 2 arm max hangs on the 18 mm rung, front three x 5 and then back three x 5. Best I've felt in ages, getting some performance back in those fingers. Messed around on the micros afterwards and the 10mm felt like jugs, the 8mm was ok, and I could get off the ground again on the 6mm again - great success.
T.
F.
S. Short session in the morning, I prefer evenings! Not particularly structured but short warmup followed by about 10x 2 arm hangs on the micros in total.
S.

I've been doing only deadhanging now for about 4 weeks, mainly as a precautionary measure as it puts the least force through my bicep tendon, are easily controlled and I needed to recover some strength back in my fingers before anything else. Time to mix it up it a little now. Will move on to repeaters next week and will start constructing the woodie in next few weeks  :2thumbsup:

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#3 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 11:27:54 am
Ta for kicking us off.

M - Baildon in the afternoon. Plenty of snow about but temps on the rise. Poor warm up then did Who Are We Without Moon via the static beta in a few goes. Fun, feels unlikely until you do it and quite different to the dyno. Got to work on the sit and found Sutty's beta didn't really work for me. Lots of tweaks later got it sorted and then did it 3rd or 4th go from the start. Successful go was great, tried hard, few things went wrong but just about kept it together. Later in the evening did aerocap; foot on campus ladders x8 60 secs on 90s secs off, then conditioning leg lifts, lateral raises and bicep curls.

Tu - rest

W - lunchtime fingerboard session. 3x 10s 26mm edge half crimp +40kg, 5 seconds in reserve, 3 min rests. Then 20mm edge pick ups 6x 15s M2 and 6x 10s F2.

Th - Caley. Beautiful day. Felt good, did Juju Club first go, felt easy as ever. Ben's Groove Sit session #20 of the year. Couldn't even do the stand; foot kept popping on the move into the crack, and I lost all trust in it. Considering I've done the stand something like 65-70 times, that's just embarrassing. Had a few goes from the start and the first few moves at least flowed fairly well. Didn't stick the crux from the start though. Sacked it after a couple of hours and went to try Slapstick Arete Sit. Did from start to the good edge just below the top about 10 times, but was always going left hand first and for the life of me could not match and do the last easy move! Frustrating.

F - lunchtime board doubles session. 6x 6 move problems doing each twice back to back with no rest. Smeggy / condensy conditions so felt hard but got a good forearm power out. In the evening did aerocap, just 8 minutes of easy climbing, shaking and chalking with low pump.

Sa - rest

Su - fingerboard at home, 6x 10s 26mm edge half crimp, +45kg 2 seconds in reserve, 3 min rests. Then chanced Ilkley and lucked out that it was both dry and the cold just about bearable. Did Almost Pleasant in a few goes, fun problem. Then had a brief attempt at Superset; managed to pull on but felt a way off initiating any upward movement. Sacked it quickly and worked out Awkward Classic, then did it in a few goes; turned out not to be that awkward but definitely classic. Back at home in the evening did conditioning, pull ups, Arnold press, front raise, wrist curls and external rotations.

Will be leaving Ben's for a while now, until Spring at least. Keen to try and get more volume done, really enjoyed the days this week getting a couple of things done in a session.

dunnyg

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1522
  • Karma: +91/-7
#4 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 11:30:52 am
I can never get the first move of awkward classic done, is the beta to be stronger?

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#5 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 11:39:24 am
Thanks oldfella

11.7-8 average 161.6

M. Rest day 8

T. Rest day 9

W. AM Flu jab and home FB warm. PM Tor. Dank and rainy. Did throw move after about 6 attempt. Then start to falling off throw move. Then holding pocket and pinch to falling off cross thru. Then cross thru to falling off THFML. Then did TFML. Then start to falling off throw move. Then tried from pocket and crimp but was tired

T. PM Home FB. Beautiful day. Hollin Hill to meet 8bMark. Was keen to check this place out. Impressive wall. Good landing. Generally positive holds. Lacks line so very eliminate. No sun. Good outdoor training venue for me - just the right angle and type of holds. Didn’t climb much and quickly powered out. I’ll be back. Nice skies coming home.

F.

S. PM Foundry with Keith to punch my endurance maintenance ticket. First time I’ve tied on here in years. FB warm up. Auto belay in Furnace. Routes on the main wall then autobelay to finish. I know I’m rubbish on indoor routes but the grades on the main wall are even more detached from reality than they used to be. Failed on a 6b+!

S.

S.

Easing back into it. Generally looking to gain a bit of strength and maintain endurance in run up to Xmas after which hopefully go on a long trip to Spain. Flu jab this week and booster jab last week with no ill effects so count myself lucky.

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#6 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 11:49:57 am
Short board session on Saturday.

A walk on Sunday from the Roaches hut to the Skyline to confirm that everything was soaked.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +332/-2
#7 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 12:10:29 pm
Week 7 of single parenting. Week 3 of cold.

M - Fingerboard, max. hangs - managed to hold 3 finger drag on the 14mm hold for 5s. A small improvement! Pull-ups.
T - Shoulder conditioning: pull-ups, side planks, handstands. 
W - Fingerboard, max. hangs. Hip/knee conditioning including squats, managed full single leg squat with both legs for the first time in nearly a year (ie before Covid). Yay!
T - Fingerboard, aeropower (?) on a ~35mm edge: 7s on / 3s off. Managed 9 reps. (90 seconds) before failing. Did this 3 times. Really tiring. Shoulder conditioning as Tuesday.
F - Hip/knee. Messiaen’s Quartet for the End of Time in a local church. If any piece of music could convince me there is a God it would be this.
S - The Valkyrie at ENO, good in parts but overall didn’t quite hit the spot.
S - Fingerboard, aeropower on a ~35mm edge: 7s on / 3s off. 9 reps. x 4 sets. Despite a couple of rest days beforehand this still felt like everything was about to break on the last couple of reps.

Plus a 7-10km walk every day.

I’ve not yet got the intensity right for the 2 minutes of repeaters (aeropower I hope). I could try 6s on / 4s off, an even larger edge, foot on a chair, or just stick at it for a couple more sessions assuming I’ll get fitter / learn how to do the exercise. Any thoughts?

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4287
  • Karma: +341/-25
#8 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 12:14:34 pm
I know I’m rubbish on indoor routes but the grades on the main wall are even more detached from reality than they used to be.

Having been back on the main wall yesterday, I concur!

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#9 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 12:31:36 pm
I can never get the first move of awkward classic done, is the beta to be stronger?

Always!

Assume you mean the big move right hand up to hold 16? If so I put right heel by my right hand, built left foot up just on the wall and cranked on the heel. Then to go to 17 just bring hips up and go right hand again.

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2006
  • Karma: +83/-0
#10 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 12:33:57 pm
Let me know if you fancy HH sometime Shark. I’d like to go back as my wrist is improving

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +40/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#11 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 12:55:05 pm
Injury Club...

M: Max hangs and limit bouldering - Managed 10s @ 12Kg on Lattice 20mm, this is up 4Kg on last time so I am either making gains (Gainzz  :weakbench:) or was just a bit shit(er) last time... Did new problem on AW woodie both sides too, felt good!
T: Routes @ AW - Trashed from day before, onsight up to F6c then drop top of F7a+... Arse!
W: Results of MRI day (sorry for reiterating if you saw my NNFN)... Very large SLAP tear which extends from biceps anchor to involve the whole posterior labrum down to 6 o'clock. The anterosuperior labrum sits away from glenoid which could in theory relate to a sublabral recess, but even the anteroinferior labrum looks medialised and thus the SLAP tear may extend to involve the whole anterior labrum also.
Quack recomends immediate surgery, 4 weeks in a sling, 3 months off climbing then another 3 getting back up to where I am now!.... Massive arse!  :'(
T: Spent all day researching and calling physios etc. Some interesting points of view... Going to get a second opinion/look at options... On the whole it looks like I can probably put off the surgery for a while as I'm not in pain but it will probably get worse and I will eventually need it done, just gotta figure out how far I want to push it etc.
F: Routes @ AW - Testing shoulder as I'm now worried about it... Up to F6b+, no pain during or after climbing...
S: Routes @ AW - Testing a bit harder - Fell off last move of 7a+, becoming a bit of a battle this! Bit of post climbing soreness in shoulder but tbh it's probably not that different to the non injured one....
S: Nowt...

What a week! Up and down then up and then down... Coming to the conclusion that I'm going to at some point have to take the best part of a year off climbing/training is a pretty tough realisation. Going to explore all alternatives but from the sounds of it I'm just delaying the inveitible... There's a specialist called Val Jones in Sheff that was a great help and if she had any availability I'd be seeing her but she's fully booked up and doesn't know when she'll have space... Trying to stay positive but it's tough...

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#12 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 01:18:38 pm
Power Club

Mon - 20' session. Loaded carries, ab wheel.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Fun!
Thu - light EMOM weights.
Fri - TBDL x5 + 1' farmer's + snatch + 1' overhead walk x6.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - 45' EMOM weights.




Liamhutch89

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1260
  • Karma: +87/-1
#13 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 01:18:57 pm
M - rest

T - am: 1 armers, max hangs, pm: board (limit), rings

W - board (volume), handstand presses, nordic curls

T - rest

F - Drove home from a work event through the peak and stopped at Tom's cave for the first time. I only had an hour before it got dark, but almost managed hannibal, just not quite sticking the cut loose after getting the left crimp out wide. I'll return to try and tick it off at some point as the moves are class (and I have quite a high tolerance for quarried holes). Late in the session I found a wild upside down knee scum with my foot in the high roof making the throw to the left hand crimp slightly more secure than the more conventional heel. A bit of pip joint pain in right index finger after the session.

S - built a fingerboard pickup block for a slightly different stimulus and worked up to 50kg for 5 sets of 10s in half crimp (22mm edge). I expected i'd manage more weight as my 2 handed hang on an equivalent edge would be a lot more than 100kg total weight. Interesting, possibly gains to be made, or maybe just spent from the day before! pm: full body rings / floor exercises

S - rest

sdm

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 622
  • Karma: +25/-1
#14 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 01:22:35 pm
F - Drove home from a work event through the peak and stopped at Tom's cave for the first time. I only had an hour before it got dark, but almost managed hannibal, just not quite sticking the cut loose after getting the left crimp out wide. I'll return to try and tick it off at some point as the moves are class (and I have quite a high tolerance for quarried holes). Late in the session I found a wild upside down knee scum with my foot in the high roof making the throw to the left hand crimp slightly more secure than the more conventional heel.

There's a knee scum with a low right foot that does the job too.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#15 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 01:33:07 pm
Monday

Went to the Works. Did my 3x 12 bench at 20kgs, 3 x 10 OHP at 12.5kg, 3x 10 curls at 16kgs, 3x 10 rows at 16kgs. Hangboarding 8x 10 second hangs at 17kgs, felt fine. Couple hours moderate to harder bouldering.

Tuesday - rested

Wednesday - rest, went to Manchester and had a few pints as a treat.

Thursday - had a short session just to stay recruited. Was not very focused due to some bad news at work but was glad for the distraction.

Friday - took the day off. Went to try Bumlog Millionaire. Bottom sequence to rail with knee kneebar felt piss several times in a row, top move that I did several times last session on it was very elusive however. Did burns from the bottom but quite far from sticking the dyno ground up. Amazing if deeply frustrating problem.

Saturday - Hanger for a laugh, went through most of their purple circuit and a lot of the reds, was a good session actually. Nothing limit but fun. Did all my core, didn't feel nearly as bad this time.

Sunday- Depot. Little achey but did a good half dozen purples and plenty of other stuff including a lot of technique and mobility drills. Did my weighted mobility work (cossack squats, squats, jefferson curls)

Feeling: decent but annoyed at Bumlog Millionaire. What a problem! I'd trade it for any 7A I've done or indeed that I've tried.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#16 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 01:41:06 pm
M -
T - work, 12 hrs.
W - work, 12 hrs.
T -
F - TCA, bouldering on new hard set (7A - 7C), did 5 of the 6 I tried, pretty happy with that. Also they'd posted comp results, I was 3rd which I'm happy with, even if everything had gone perfectly it wouldn't have made a difference to the placings.
S - work, 12 hrs
S - work, 12 hrs

72.5 kg. Need to actually do something about this now...

iain

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 672
  • Karma: +31/-0
#17 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 01:53:19 pm
That's a shit decision/situation to be faced with DD.

I've had close to 2 years off climbing in the last 5 due to various injuries, illness and one surgery, I've found it helpful to think of the long term that a shortish term lack of climbing will mean years or decades more climbing on the other side, and also finding some new hobbies to tide me over.

If you decide to go for the surgery maybe having it over the winter is the least worst time.

Still sucks though.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2021, 02:21:56 pm by iain »

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
#18 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 01:56:09 pm
M - 5km hike.

T - Trail run 6.56km 232m. Hamstring exercises and stretching. Shoulder stability and core. Fingerboarding - BM lower outer edges up to +15kg (4-7 secs).

W - Indoor bouldering. Boulder projecting up to 7C. Token 20 move circuit boulder at the end (fail).

T - Trail run 9.91km 376m.

F - Trail run 17.27km 627m. Hamstring exercises and stretching. Elbow rehab + rotator cuff isolation weights.

S - Skiing (Schlick 2000).

S - Indoor routes - 7a, 7b, 7c+, 8a (did the moves), 7c (fail), 7b+.

 

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4315
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#19 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 02:10:56 pm
Yeah, shit news DD. Feel for you.

So, one question I have (that I'm sure you probably discussed with the physio) is, what are the downsides of leaving it longer? I would have thought movement disfunction, wear and tear and risk of bigger injury? (non expert view).

I knackered my knee at a time when I was on one of my first climbing "highs", everything going well. Felt really bummed about it, but I retrospect at least I had full psyche for the recovery. If you wait until things get worse first, it might be a deeper hole to recover from?

iain

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 672
  • Karma: +31/-0
#20 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 02:21:24 pm
General goals:  stay injury free, maintain finger/general prehab routines
Short: find (and hopefully do) some bouldering projects
Medium: Unleashing and Why Me in the spring

Weight: 69kg average

Mon - 2nd aerocap session, this time actually climbing late night at the Foundry. 5 x 10min on/off for a mere 200m mostly around 6a. Tiny in comparison to Duncan's epic sessions, must climb faster.
My underlying fitness is woeful compared to where my bouldering is at the moment, lots of work to be done.

Tues - Depot on the red circuit. 26 of 28 in the hour in blocks of 4, then realised I'd missed 2 which I did after for 28 our of 30. Pleased with that for 3rd day on and induced the desired powering out.

Wed - Shoulder, thorasic and hip mobility and strengthening

Thurs - Planned day out (it was beautiful) scuppered by plumbing leak which took the day to sort.
Limit board session in the evening, ok but still tired from sun/mon/tues

Fri - Foundry for some 4x4 and flash practise followed by working some stuff after. Got a decent session but there was a big gap between level 2 and 3's exactly where I needed the difficulty to be, the L3's were way harder than their given grade range.
Will be a bit more selective about the problems I do next time, there's a reset today I think.
Finished with 3rd aerocap session, only 4 x 10min on/off for 160m around 6a.

Sat/Sun - nothing although had planned a day out Sunday but weather wasn't worth it when I needed the rest.


Pushed it harder than I meant to last Sunday to Friday so took a couple of proper days off, although adducter feels like it's back to normal which is great.

Forecast looks like an indoor week again, more of the same.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2021, 02:28:11 pm by iain »

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#21 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 02:38:14 pm
4 weeks in a sling, 3 months off climbing then another 3 getting back up to where I am now!.... I'm going to at some point have to take the best part of a year off climbing/training is a pretty tough realisation.

Speaking as someone who had to do this (six months without being able to climb at all, then starting back from being the worst climber at the climbing wall including the people there for the first time) it’s not as bad as you think. The hardest bit (mentally at least) is coming to terms with the fact that it’s going to happen. If you’re anything like me you’ll come back with a new perspective and drive plus the realisation that what you love about climbing is a lot less connected to being good at it than you thought. And making progress towards being good again feels fucking great. ;D

bolehillbilly

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 274
  • Karma: +31/-0
#22 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 02:58:54 pm

Feeling: decent but annoyed at Bumlog Millionaire. What a problem! I'd trade it for any 7A I've done or indeed that I've tried.

Good luck with your next visit Wellsy, I feel your pain, I find Bumlog really tricky to link. If you're going back to the woods The Fork is a great 7A+, cool sequence and suited my style more than Bumlog.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#23 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 06, 2021, 05:22:46 pm
I'll give that a go. But I definitely will be keeping on with Bumlog Millionaire. The moves are so cool, it's such a "complete" problem

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +40/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#24 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 07, 2021, 11:05:20 am
Cheers guys...Propre shit scenes... Sure it'll work out in the end, just gotta concentrate on the long game...

So, one question I have (that I'm sure you probably discussed with the physio) is, what are the downsides of leaving it longer? I would have thought movement disfunction, wear and tear and risk of bigger injury? (non expert view).

This is definitely the surgeons point of view... The physio's seem less inclined to take that stance though. There's basically no way of knowing 100% either way so it's just a case of weighing up the options, getting as much info as possible and making a decision... Currently I'd say I'm down 10-15% on power in the left shoulder and maybe more at full extension (maybe less when close in to the body) with very little pain, some discomfort but all completely managble. One interesting thing Val Jones said was "if you have the surgery how do you know it'll give you that extra 10-15% back??" If it was down 50% and or causing me a shitload of pain it'd be a no brainer... How it is now, I'm not so sure... I've put back my consultant appointment for a few weeks now and am considering asking him to either refer me to PT or have a review in 6 months while I get my own PT and make a decision from there... Funny thing is that since the diagnosis I'm definitely in more discomfort and am far more wary of doing anything shouldery... Guess it's not that unusual but it feels pretty odd....

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#25 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 07, 2021, 11:48:01 am
Tricky decision to make that. Hope that however direction you go with it you get back in action sooner rather than later.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +332/-2
#26 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 07, 2021, 01:26:54 pm

What a week! Up and down then up and then down... Coming to the conclusion that I'm going to at some point have to take the best part of a year off climbing/training is a pretty tough realisation. Going to explore all alternatives but from the sounds of it I'm just delaying the inveitible... There's a specialist called Val Jones in Sheff that was a great help and if she had any availability I'd be seeing her but she's fully booked up and doesn't know when she'll have space... Trying to stay positive but it's tough...

I’ve been thinking quite a bit about this one DD. I’ve sat on both sides of the desk and it's a difficult decision. TL/DR: go straight to the last sentence.

The crux is whether your current non-ideal anatomy will lead, in the long term, to arthritis and more pain and dysfunction. Your surgeon thinks so. You’ve had some expert physiotherapy opinion that it isn’t as clear-cut as that. There is probably a degree of “s/he would say that wouldn’t s/he” in both camps. Any chance of a second surgical opinion?

Personal experience: I had a right shoulder SLAP lesion, possibly less severe than yours, “tidied up” twenty years ago. Famous surgeon, consulted for Arsenal at the time. It took about a year before I felt like I was properly over the surgery. It didn’t help me in the short and medium term (at 5 years it felt much the same as before injury) but I didn't do as much rehab. as I could have done. In the long term that shoulder is now my stronger one but I can't be sure if this was due to the surgery. I’ve taken conditioning much more seriously over the last 10 years especially after dislocating my left (not the SLAP one) shoulder 4 years ago. I think the conditioning made the biggest difference. 

Professional opinion: the recent deterioration in your shoulder after getting this bad news is a good example of how pain and dysfunction is not simply down to the state of the joints, ligaments and tendons. Your shoulder hasn’t changed but your mood and anxiety probably have and you may even be doing less with that shoulder. What is the evidence that long-term lack of repair will give you arthritis? There are no very long-term studies (10+ years) that I’m aware of that track folk with unoperated SLAP lesions so any answer is going to be a bit speculative. The medium term (2-5 years) outcomes for non-surgical management are pretty good.

There is also this study, a rare example of a blinded clinical trial for surgery. Small numbers (n=118) so possibly underpowered and at risk of a false negative result and outcomes at two years only so far. Their conclusions are striking: “Neither labral repair nor biceps tenodesis had any significant clinical benefit over sham surgery for patients with SLAP II lesions in the population studied”.


What would I do if I was in your shoes? Hammer the conditioning and wait and see.

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +40/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#27 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 07, 2021, 03:49:53 pm
Wow! Thanks for your input, really appreciate you running an expert eye over this... Making this decision is becoming my current day-job (people are just gonna have to wait to get their websites built!) so it's just the kind of info I'm looking for...

The crux is whether your current non-ideal anatomy will lead, in the long term, to arthritis and more pain and dysfunction. Your surgeon thinks so. You’ve had some expert physiotherapy opinion that it isn’t as clear-cut as that. There is probably a degree of “s/he would say that wouldn’t s/he” in both camps. Any chance of a second surgical opinion?

Yes and no... I've been in touch with Professor Funk (best-named surgeon on the planet!) who's done a fair few climbers and written about SLAP tears in climbers... I've had to hold off booking an appointment as his consultancy fees start at £260 (and follow-ups @ £210) and I'm not in possession of any private healthcare insurance or a spare £260/£470+ but it's not outside the realms of possibility if needs must... On the plus side, I've heard that if you do go see him and he thinks you need the surgery then there's a chance for an NHS referral but it's not certain... I'm not sure what my current surgeon would say about me asking for a second opinion, do they even do this on the NHS these days??

The medium term (2-5 years) outcomes for non-surgical management are pretty good.....

This, the study your cite and some anecdotal evidence I've acquired all seem to be pointing in the same direction... I contacted a guy on the other channel who had a very similar injury 13 years back and has managed it pretty well with non-surgical treatment (to the point he's still able to climb F8a+) which is a real eye-opener... I know we're all different but it's nice to hear some positives...

What would I do if I was in your shoes? Hammer the conditioning and wait and see.

This is generally what I'm erring towards right now... I think a good few sessions with someone like Val Jones or Jo Gibson to get what I need to do for my particular injury down and then just not deviate from the program... If it's not better/worse in say 6 months (??) then reassess...

Thanks again...

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#28 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 07, 2021, 04:29:22 pm
Professor Funk

If you’re going to consult anyone about SLAP it has to be this guy.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#29 Re: Power Club 611. Nov 29 to Dec 5 2021
December 07, 2021, 04:39:47 pm
If Professor Funk can't play SLAP bass I'll be disappointed.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal