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Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021 (Read 2391 times)

Duma

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Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 28, 2021, 09:30:42 pm
M - TCA, did the comp (4hrs from when you pick up your scorecard, 25 problems). 19 flash, 23 tops. Can def do one of the others, but was knackered by then. Should have flashed one more, but otherwise did as well as I could hope.
Then nights, 12 hrs.
T - aching from the comp, don't try hard enough normally... work nights, 12 hrs.
W - still a few aches. work nights, 12 hrs.
T - snuck a brief TCA session in before my shift, managed one of the problems I didn't top on Monday (the other is pretty definitely beyond me), also ticked a white (prob 7A+) I'd failed on a few times before. work nights, 12 hrs.
F - ugh, slept till 4. Def not the way to transition off nights
S - got to sleep at 7am. Got up at 2pm. Hurrah another sctewed weekend. Hour at Flashpoint, unsurprisingly wasn't much cop.
S - 5 hours sleep, so some improvement at least. Brean, lovely day but the usual crowds meant couldn't be arsed queuing to get on Brean Topping. (Dear London, fuck off to a crag with enough routes to accommodate you all. It's not like the south coast is any further.) Anyway, repeated one of the 6c's on the left, and then did Leaving Aviva (7a+) to warm up. First go but it's a short extension to a 6c+ I did a few years ago. Then a couple of goes to work on sequences on Milky Bar Kid (8a). This links the cruxes of a 7b+ into a 7c into a 7c, via a good knee bar between the first two. Didn't bother trying the unpleasant initial section, and the middle part (crux of Bullworker) felt harder than I remember, took a while to get the crux move. On the up side, the upper section traversing into El Chocco and doing the crux of that felt a lot better than previously, remembered it ok and did it a couple of times. Managed to link the Bullworker section on second go up too, so not too bad.

72kg

duncan

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#1 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 28, 2021, 09:44:20 pm
(Dear London, fuck off to a crag with enough routes to accommodate you all. It's not like the south coast is any further.)
https://www.instagram.com/p/CW0KHoSt5al/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link


Week 5 of single parenting

M - Shoulder conditioning (press-ups, handstands, side-planks). Hip/knee conditioning (single, double, and frog squats).
T -  10km walking.
W  - Fingerboard mini-session: 20mm edges x 7s with no load
T - 10km walking. Getting a bit of a cold.
F - Fingerboard mini-session. Proper head cold.
S - Proper proper cold. Walked to PCR test centre and back (7km), a mistake on reflection. Spent the rest of the day in bed. PCR negative.
S - Cough cough cough cough. Fingerboard mini-session. Complete fail on the parenting front.





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#2 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 28, 2021, 10:01:30 pm
De-load week plus first back at work following paternity leave.

M - Almscliff. Really short session, warmed up and gave the top of Crusis a scrub. Did the stand to the break, then did the full thing third go. I've already waxed lyrical about it elsewhere so I'll not repeat myself here (other than to say it really is brilliant). Very glad to get out on such a beautiful day.

Tu & W - rest

Th - FB session. Did 3x 10s 26mm edge +40kg with 5 seconds in reserve, 3 min rests. Then 6x each of M2 and F2 pick ups on 20mm edge, all but 1st 2 at 20kg, 1 min rests. Also did a handful of easy board problems just to move a bit.

F - rest

Sa - board session, 40mins plus warm up. Mainly tried Ben's Groove Sit simulator. Did okay.

Su - snowed off halfway to Caley. Decided to just rest and fight another day instead of doing another board session.

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#3 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 28, 2021, 10:22:44 pm
Developed a cold on Monday which is on its way out but not gone yet. Sod all this week.

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#4 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 28, 2021, 10:50:15 pm
Had a rest week as I was in London. Used the down time to write up goals for 2022. On reflection of this year, Iíve neglected the value in doing routes & variety. Iíve trained on mainly the 40degree Moonboard and 50 degree board. Which is not specific to the types of climbing I do when I do get outside.

Monday
Rest

Tuesday
Rest

Wednesday:
Boulder Mileage at the Arch in London. 3sets of 20problems with 30s rests between problems.

Thursday
Rest


Friday:
Rest

Saturday:
Rest

Sunday
Project session at the School

Went to the School. Not been there since the splat board reset.

Warm up circuit. 12 problems spread across the Splat Board, 2017 25 degree board, 2019 Moonboard, 50 degree board.

Project session 20mins
Give them Crumbs
I worked the finish twice and felt great.  I then did the top half of the problem 3 times, starting with the dyno.
I felt better than I had done before so decided to try and send it.

By now the snow was coming down fast. So I was mindful of the roads and being able to get home.

I fell off on the 2nd last hold as I cut loose and didnít get my foot back on first go. The second attempt I had a 3 min rest and then fell on the last hold. After a 4min test I fell off matching the last hold.
Bailed after that due to the snow falling. The snow was heavy and settling on the road.

Next week Iím starting a new 6 week cycle. Introducing a weekly session of routes at awesome walls.

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#5 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 08:05:54 am
Quiet week of being housebound due to getting snagged by a positive PCR, despite being 10+ days from onset of symptoms and being fully recovered.  >:(

Weight seem to stabilise whike in Spain at 77kg and has now settled at this, so I think this is a good balance of being better fuelled and not being too heavy. Going to stick with eating more, especially on training days to help ze gainz.

Took it easy just in case, so basically nothing at all except:

Friday:max hangs test session to check my level. +26kg (up 4kg since last test) despite being 4kg heavier AND not having done any fingerboarding. I'm using BMK large pockets with spacers to leave 20mm edge.

Sunday: after a thoroughly reorganising and cleaning the garage, I had the first chilly winter board session. Mainly just fucking about getting some mileage on medium hard problems. Don't want to get injured on day 1!

Didn't check in last week. Had a funny old trip in Spain, got ill, recovered. Climbed a bit, managed to pull the finger out and onsight 1x 7b, 1x7a+ and VERY narrowly missed another 7b that had the crux a bit above the bolt and I pulled the significantly lighter other half way up the crag! Got it 2nd go and it felt very steady. Tried one 7c in Margalef, Magic Festival. First go was a poor excuse for an onsight, basically boot to bolted it. Second go made some links, 3rd go was powering out. Came back a few days later but that very day was the onset of what I thought was a cold. Felt tired and weak, but had one link up past the knee bar (maybe need to invest in a pad) but didn't get far beyond. Felt a surprisingly long way off consider the routes I managed later in the trip (mentioned above).

Might try JWIs benchmark tests next time I go to Ratho. That said it's quite a bit of climbing to get through 1-3, so not sure what grade to aim for. Quick 8a would be nice. I've always had a bit of a vague aim to onsight 7c at some point.
« Last Edit: November 29, 2021, 08:17:39 am by Fultonius »

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#6 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 08:53:09 am
Quote from: Fultonius

Might try JWIs benchmark tests next time I go to Ratho. That said it's quite a bit of climbing to get through 1-3, so not sure what grade to aim for. Quick 8a would be nice. I've always had a bit of a vague aim to onsight 7c at some point.

Iím pretty sure they were general benchmarks - not something to be achieved in a single session!

Liamhutch89

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#7 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 09:17:58 am
Taking last week off to rest did me no favours at all. After a week of training, my strength still hasn't all returned yet! There will be no more rest weeks for me if I can help it.

M: board - rubbish
T: max hangs - rubbish, rings/general strength - ok
W: off
T: board (limit) - rubbish, max hangs - rubbish
F: board (volume) - managed the moderates, rings/general strength - ok
S: off
S: board - ok, max hangs - better but still down on strength

Yossarian

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#8 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 09:36:36 am
Liam - what rings stuff and general strength exercises do you do? Any weighted pull-ups / one arms, etc?

Youíre 80something kg right? Iím impressed with your progress re the timescale you mentioned in the progression thread.

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#9 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 10:03:23 am
One session fitted in this week around other life admin. Been reading Beastmaking all week though, that counts, right?

M.
T.
W. Shed session. Max hangs, 2 arms, four finger half crimp, 20s on and 3 mins rest. Really focussed hard on quality and had a better session for it, mostly inspired by Ned's book which is excellent and full of useful stuff for the time starved. Front rows and flys on the trx to finish.
T.
F.
S. Hanging doors.
S. Hanging doors and other DIY. Trying to get house ready before our new arrival.

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#10 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 10:15:53 am
Quote from: Fultonius

Might try JWIs benchmark tests next time I go to Ratho. That said it's quite a bit of climbing to get through 1-3, so not sure what grade to aim for. Quick 8a would be nice. I've always had a bit of a vague aim to onsight 7c at some point.

Iím pretty sure they were general benchmarks - not something to be achieved in a single session!

Ha, badly worded on my part. I was meaning that, even spread across multiple sessions, if you get the level wrong the first few times it will take quite a bit to get through it all. Could be 12 or so sessions! 


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#11 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 10:29:33 am
Deload club...

M: Rest and stretching
T: Easy routes @ AW - Was cold so just climbed in my trainers, worked out well as meant that I could only climb easy stuff and focus on moving well...
W: Bouldering with the kids - just got them up some stuff... Did a few sets of repeaters on the BM1K, no added weight, big holds.
T: AW with daughter - Did a few auto belays up to F6c
F: Nowt
S: AW with kids and GF - Led some easy routes did some autos up to F6c
S: Nowt - Went to EIS athletics tournament with daughter, she didn't win... Bought and ate sweets as consolation!

Seems there's a lot of resting gong on this week... Cold @ AW so was hard to get warm, hopefully it'll be a bit warmer this week... Gotta get back on the horse but not get injured so gonna make sure if I do nothing else I warm up well!

dunnyg

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#12 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 11:07:03 am
Not really a PC post, but I've found keeping a training diary has been incredibly useful. It has provided me with training psyche, both for rehab and in general, as well as help identify weaknesses, and likely injury causes. I'm too lazy to copy it on to here weekly, but regularly lurk here, to steal ideas and see if my disruption of Wills training regime is going well. Cheers for all the updates!

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#13 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 11:09:36 am
Liam - what rings stuff and general strength exercises do you do? Any weighted pull-ups / one arms, etc?

Youíre 80something kg right? Iím impressed with your progress re the timescale you mentioned in the progression thread.

Usually around 83-84kg at 6'2. I've been trying to narrow down on my best bang for buck exercises, so I have more time/energy to climb and train finger strength. For me this is:

workout 1: vertical pulling, horizontal pushing, posterior chain
workout 2: vertical pushing, horizontal pulling, 'core'

I try to alternate rep ranges, e.g. i'll do my vertical pulling for 3 reps on one day, then the next time I I'll aim for 6-10 reps. I rarely do any quad focused leg exercises as my legs are too big and strong as it is. I do occasionally do single leg calf raises on the stairs as I feel like I have more pop and springiness with stronger calves. My preferred exercises:

Vertical pulling: one armers - I can do them unassisted but nearly always train them with a pulley (for constant assistance, bands aren't as good). Weighted pull ups are absolutely fine and possibly better but I need to add too much weight.

Horizontal pulling: front lever rows (alter the position between tuck, advanced tuck, straddle, full to get into the correct rep range). Barbel rows would also be good but don't have enough weight or a bar.

Vertical pushing: handstand pressups. I do these raised on paralettes to get a better range of motion, toes touching a wall for balance, chest facing wall. Standing barbel military press would be better so I could vary intensity more easily but again I have no bar.

Horizontal pushing: ring turn out dips. I don't think there's a better pushing exercise than dips, despite them not being strictly horizontal. Keeping palms facing forward throughout the whole range of motion (and not arching your back to cheat it up) is equal to doing normal bar dips with around 40-50kg added for me. I get DOMS everytime!

Posterior chain: Nordic curls. Excellent exercise and you should be able to find somewhere to do them at home. Likely will only be able to do negatives if untrained as they are hard. Deadlifts are good, but need tons of weight and the recovery toll is massive.

Core: For me this is the hardest one to get right. Currently I like dragon flags but the form is hard. Leg raises are ok but you need to be very strict not to let lats take over (toes to bar is pointless unless you have VERY good mobility) and to not rest at the bottom.

From time to time I spice things up and try iron cross and planche progressions, or do front/back levers but I don't think these are as good for building general strength (dynamic exercises > static exercises) 

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#14 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 11:22:12 am
Jesus christ Liam  :bow:

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#15 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 11:45:46 am
11.7 Average 161.5

Rest week.

Felt in bits at start of week from the chulilla trip (sore hip, sore back, more spaced out than usual) but gradually recovered. Shame to miss out on the mint connies at the start of the week. Was surprised at weight gain whilst away. Just need it to settle below 11.7 as Iíve found it hard to shift if it settles above. No specific plans this week but no doubt will have a session on Bens at some point to see where I am.

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#16 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 11:52:55 am
M - 5km hike

T - Trail run 9.87km 375m. Shoulder stability + core + rotator cuff weights. Hamstring strengthening + stretching.

W - 5km hike. Finger boarding - Lattice rung and BM2k lower outer edges + weight up to 15kg. Not a great session as my shoulders felt weak from the weights the day before.

T - MTB ride 20.39km 583m.

F - Annual birthday run. A now 3 year tradition whereby I try and run the same amount of kilometres as my new age and also try and get up one of favourite local mountains (Brandjochkreuz). The latter is not always possible depending on whether proper winter has arrived or not. This year it was possible although very sketchy underfoot. Had to add a couple of 4km loops when I got home to make up the distance which was both physically and mentally tiring. 38km 2200m.

S - Rest/hungover.

S - Drove to Italy where the climbing walls are still open. Mixed session of some bouldering and routes. Not too bad but I was a bit weak and powered out.     

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#17 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 12:38:32 pm


Felt in bits at start of week from the chulilla trip

How busy is Chulilla these days?

Fultonius

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#18 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 12:42:53 pm
Very if the American Climbing School are resident!

Saw your name pop up on a few routes at Gelida JWI - fun place for a day or two!

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#19 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 12:56:25 pm
Bit stunned at the volume Liam and JohnM seem to pack in.
(Liam, surely just recruitment loss rather than actual strength loss?)

Oldfella, sounds like you nearly did your project after already training, good effort.


General goals:  stay injury free, maintain finger/general prehab routines
Short: find (and hopefully do) some bouldering projects
Medium: Unleashing and Why Me in the spring

Weight: 69.2 average

Mon - see last week

Tues/Wed - battered from weekend, rest

Thurs - Leg adductor improving but still tender so no climbing.  FB max hangs 3 finger half crimp and open, 4 finger half crimp similar numbers to benchmark. 20 min rest then 7/3 sets where I was powering out rather than getting pumped.
Shoulder, thorasic mobilty and strengthening with gentle hip mobility. TRX progressions.

Fri - Adductor still tender. An exciting aerocap session pulling on a bar. 10min 7/3 per set, 4 sets with climbing films on in background. Almost felt like I was there.
Shoulder, thorasic mobilty and strengthening with gentle hip mobility. TRX progressions.

Sat - low motivation/psyche day, nothing in the end.

Sun - Nearcliffe woods in the snow. Very pretty with the background hum and enticing aroma of 2-strokes as a dirt bike group bombed around. If it was my thing I'd be there too.

Depth Hunter, surprisingly fun for a scrappy low ball (now that I can do it)

Tried In the Heart of Darkness. Feels hard for me, the start's at the limit of my reach and didn't manage the match in the groove. Fairly sure it will go with some work on the beta but stopped as right shoulder was feeling odd.

Quick play on White Rabbit RH but adductor didn't like that, so repeated Dawid's Eliminate before moving on.

Breach of the Peace looks good but was wet, didn't find Leaning Block (any hints?) and Graffiti Wall isn't worth the effort and ledges had broken glass on them  :no:

----

Really good to get out yesterday, felt like a day stolen from the weather, love that.
In general missed actually climbing this week but made up as best I could on the FB. Adductor's improved loads but still need to be careful.

Aiming for 2 more aerocap sessions this week, and one day outside maybe later in the week when things are melted and hopefully dried out.

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#20 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 01:09:34 pm
Quiet again for me.

M. Acro-yoga
T. Physio session for my knee. Suspected fluid build up from bad running form. On the treadmill I was landing straight legged, on my heel and with my leg a bit diagonal (i.e. stepping in front of my other foot).
W.
T. Ultrasound on knee found a small amount of fluid (residual from injury c.3 weeks ago). God news as hopefully sorted by strength and conditioning + learning how to run properly.
F. Daily S+C session for running.
S. Daily S+C
S. Daily S+C and board session. Finger was tender after but fine today. Think I just need to start fitting some more in now to hopefully finish off the re-hab and get rid of the residual soreness.

Glad to have seen a physio for my knee this week. Went to a local in person one this time whoís also a running coach. Hopefully the diagnosis is correct and Iíll be back running by Christmas. Bloody hell itís expensive though. 2 sessions + ultrasound + 4 week running program (I was told to do their online routine for 4 weeks - didnít get told it was £160!).

But if itís works itíll be worth it as itís a reoccurring thing which Iíve not been able to control well over the last 3/4 years. Sounds like itís just repetitive bad form which is causing flare-ups.

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#21 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 01:22:22 pm
Iain, I think you're correct that I just lost recruitment.

The leaning block is north east of the viaduct boulder. If I remember correctly, it can be seen from a track that runs parallel to the river, half way up the hill (between river and top of viaduct). I found it by accident but I think it's only about 5 min from the viaduct boulder.

When you sus out the start on Heart of Darkness, it's worth going all the way to the top if you feel comfortable as it's a nice finish on big holds! (and Bradders might appear saying back around if not).

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#22 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 01:36:49 pm
Power Club

Mon - board climbing. Powerful? 30" EMOM weights 5x clean + 5x snatch pull x10.
Tue - rest.
Wed - tired. 20' session. Deficit DL. Loaded carries.
Thu - board climbing. Powerful? Weights.
Fri - boxing bag.
Sat - weights: triceps extension, one arm snatch, one arm bentover row + lateral, lateral raise + biceps, press + high pulls. Loaded carries.
Sun - board climbing. Tired.



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#23 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 01:38:28 pm


Felt in bits at start of week from the chulilla trip

How busy is Chulilla these days?

Seemed very busy at the start but a lot quieter at the end of the trip. As mentioned the 20 or so college kids turning up at Oasis skewed my perception. Last Saturday we had the crag to ourselves presumably because no one else was prepared to walk up in the rain. Think youíd find it acceptable if you went now.

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#24 Re: Power Club 610 22 - 28 Nov 2021
November 29, 2021, 01:42:00 pm
James, the knee thing - where was the fluid?  I've recently had some issues with some discomfort and odd noises under the kneecap, when bent more than 30ish degrees.Got a GP appointment (thought I'd go GP first in case the want to go for scans or whatever).


 

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