[Bradders]

When you sus out the start on Heart of Darkness, it's worth going all the way to the top if you feel comfortable as it's a nice finish on big holds! (and Bradders might appear saying back around if not).

 

Actually this is another I dropped off from, the list is really quite long! Maybe time for a new thread...boulders which could be topped out but rarely are / most people drop.

[Wellsy]

Monday, first day of plan

3x 10 overhead press, 12kg dumbbells
3x 12 bench press, 17.5kg dumbbells
3x 10 bicep curls per arm 16kg dumbbells
3x 10 bicep rows per arm 16kg dumbbells

2 hours moderately intense bouldering, probably maxing at 6C.

Tuesday, rest

Wednesday

3 x 5 pullups, 10kgs added (starting low to build up).
8 x 10 second hangs with 15kgs added on the 20mm, felt pretty easy, again starting low to build up
3 x 5 ring rollouts on knees.
3 x 10 straight leg raises on bar
3 x 30 second raised knee hangs
3 x 10 bent leg wipers on bar
3 x 3 front lever raises
3 x 10 kettlebell pullthroughs
3 x 5 per side theraband twists

2 hours moderate bouldering on the circuit

Thursday

Went to spot my mate on Beach Ball. Felt pretty weak and achey but gave it around 7-8 goes, fell off the last move. Annoying! Will go next time

Friday

3x 10 cossack squats at bodyweight, 10 seconds per side
3 x 30 second weighted squat holds
3 x 5 jeffersons

Couple of hours easy to moderate bouldering

Saturday, rest, went for a nice snowy walk for a few hours

Sunday, trekked to made in Sheffield 7A+, it was dry! At least the bottom was. Fucking nails, did a couple of moves in isolation, no links. Bloody freezing so went to the Works and had a short steep board session

Feeling: good. Looking: jacked. Positive week. Enjoying the new program and coach seems both wise and learned in the ways of the force.

[Fultonius]

Wellsy, (no idea why I'm offering this advice as someone who rarely does focused training, but hey ho) don't be disheartened if real climbing feels hard when doing a training block. I'm guessing your coach will have said this?

[Wellsy]

They have and I'll bear it in mind, thanks

[iain]

Cheers Liam.

High top outs aren't normally my thing, I'll maybe take the brave pills when I head back.

If you've done White Rabbit RH where did you finish? I'd assumed it was on the high layaway (basically at the top of the boulder) till it was pointed out the giant low layaway made loads more sense.

Actually this is another I dropped off from, the list is really quite long! Maybe time for a new thread...boulders which could be topped out but rarely are / most people drop.

@Wellsy  As well as what Fultonius said I thought Made in Sheffield didn't feel like a typical roof, been up twice when a mate did it and got nowhere.

[James Malloch]

James, the knee thing - where was the fluid?  I've recently had some issues with some discomfort and odd noises under the kneecap, when bent more than 30ish degrees.Got a GP appointment (thought I'd go GP first in case the want to go for scans or whatever).

Mine was more to the side, more calf really. Kind of where the top, outside of the calf connects to the back of the knee. That’s where the main pain was anyway, though they scanned from there, to above the outside knee.

The injury is one where it starts to get a bit sore on a run. When I notice it if I start to walk it is manageable but seems to get really sore later that day/evening. Kind of hard to walk due to the pain.

But then it lets up after a few days and within a few weeks it’s okay to run again if i take it easy.

It was the fact that it has come on a load of times (no particular pattern) and that resting for a short time seems to sort it out, which led them to think it was fluid build up and the pain was my bodies way of stopping me injure myself.

[User deactivated.]

If you've done White Rabbit RH where did you finish? I'd assumed it was on the high layaway (basically at the top of the boulder) till it was pointed out the giant low layaway made loads more sense.

For white rabbit RH I went to the top and followed the same line as Mike here, except I didn't eliminate anything at around 7B+

https://vimeo.com/59041507#_=_

[36chambers]

When you sus out the start on Heart of Darkness, it's worth going all the way to the top if you feel comfortable as it's a nice finish on big holds! (and Bradders might appear saying back around if not).

 

Actually this is another I dropped off from, the list is really quite long! Maybe time for a new thread...boulders which could be topped out but rarely are / most people drop.

Outrageous.

[jwi]

Very if the American Climbing School are resident!

Saw your name pop up on a few routes at Gelida JWI - fun place for a day or two!

I have some unfinished business there from 2013 when I last visited. I imagine I will get to revisit in a few years if I manage to move to Barcelona

Seemed very busy at the start but a lot quieter at the end of the trip. As mentioned the 20 or so college kids turning up at Oasis skewed my perception. Last Saturday we had the crag to ourselves presumably because no one else was prepared to walk up in the rain. Think you’d find it acceptable if you went now.

Hope so! Booked a room from the 11 to 27 of December in the Refugio. Hoping for slightly higher temps and a lot less dampness than what we have seen here.

I have not been there since 2015, are there anything new I should know about? Or is it just the same routes but more polished?

[shark]

I have not been there since 2015, are there anything new I should know about? Or is it just the same routes but more polished?

If you were just going off the 2013 guide last time then yes there’s lots more to go out at with the latest guide. The established classics are very polished. Unexpected foot slips are to be expected!

[Wellsy]

Cheers Liam.

High top outs aren't normally my thing, I'll maybe take the brave pills when I head back.

If you've done White Rabbit RH where did you finish? I'd assumed it was on the high layaway (basically at the top of the boulder) till it was pointed out the giant low layaway made loads more sense.

Actually this is another I dropped off from, the list is really quite long! Maybe time for a new thread...boulders which could be topped out but rarely are / most people drop.

@Wellsy  As well as what Fultonius said I thought Made in Sheffield didn't feel like a typical roof, been up twice when a mate did it and got nowhere.

Felt absolutely nails but vaguely doable. We were chatting to some bloke in the works that said he did 8 7Bs in a season and it felt harder than all of them except maybe electrical storm. Le shrug. Seems cool to me, I'd love to do it. Might be a struggle to do it this grit season though.

[tommytwotone]

Short update from me for last week...I was feeling alright, then on Tuesday I got COVID!

That was that for the rest of the week.

[Bonjoy]

I thought 7B for Made in Sheffield, as did 17 out of 19 votes on UKC

[Wellsy]

That makes me feel more reasonable about it. We hunt glory not grades mind you, but still.

I'd love to do it. Really cool moves and you can 100% commit to them

[highrepute]

I thought 7B for Made in Sheffield, as did 17 out of 19 votes on UKC

I thought 7B too, then my partner broke quite a bit of a good hold in the roof off. So got to be at least high end 7B now.

[Plattsy]

Cheers Liam.

High top outs aren't normally my thing, I'll maybe take the brave pills when I head back.

If you've done White Rabbit RH where did you finish? I'd assumed it was on the high layaway (basically at the top of the boulder) till it was pointed out the giant low layaway made loads more sense.

Actually this is another I dropped off from, the list is really quite long! Maybe time for a new thread...boulders which could be topped out but rarely are / most people drop.

@Wellsy  As well as what Fultonius said I thought Made in Sheffield didn't feel like a typical roof, been up twice when a mate did it and got nowhere.

Felt absolutely nails but vaguely doable. We were chatting to some bloke in the works that said he did 8 7Bs in a season and it felt harder than all of them except maybe electrical storm. Le shrug. Seems cool to me, I'd love to do it. Might be a struggle to do it this grit season though.

Made in Sheffield can make for a decent summer evening project. A cool day, say around 13°C with a moderate westerly and it can feel pretty good.

[User deactivated.]

Just had a look at a couple videos of Made In Sheffield. Why is no one toe hooking the right arete? BGFBB?

[sxrxg]

I tried toe hooking the right arete however it just doesn't seem to work for my body shape, it may however suit a suitor with longer limbs.

It is a fun problem with seemingly lots of slightly different sequences. I would agree that it feels harder than 7a+. I would note though that i can't do the left heel or right heel methods for the top move and instead just do a dyno with low feet with left hand up followed quickly matching the right, this is possibly a terrible sequence that makes the problem harder than it needs to be (cool way of doing the move though...)