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Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021 (Read 6204 times)

abarro81

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#25 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 04:16:47 pm
 :thumbsup: just checking!

SA Chris

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#26 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 04:34:25 pm
Wish you well, sounds like a big load to be taking on but beware of injuring yourself. Listen carefully to your body.

Liamhutch89

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#27 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 04:40:11 pm
I might have to book in with Wellsy's coach. I always feared a coach would ban me from doing lots of pullups and swap my beloved board sessions for tedious footwork exercises on slabs, all of which would make me a better climber, but... I like pullups and boards. Enjoy Wellsy!

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#28 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 05:11:37 pm
My experience of getting coaching is that the volume of work is always a decent increase on what you might plan for yourself. If other self-planning amateurs are anything like me you'll all be doing less than you should! The trick is you'll do more of the things you wouldn't have planned in yourself; e.g. for me it's been extra conditioning and endurance work primarily.

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#29 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 09:06:46 pm
Thanks fellas. I'll listen to my body but I'm not overly concerned; the volume isn't too much and we've got deload weeks and such planned in.

Like Bradders says there's stuff in there I just wouldn't be doing if I planned it myself, but following the conversation with the coach it makes total sense why I should be doing it. And I am trying to get plenty of grit mileage, do John Kettle drills etc for technique too, so I'm not neglecting that. If anything I'm trying to spend more time on it. But I feel like if you can do that and improve your strength base and make climbing specific strength and power gains... why not go for it all? I want to do 8A at least one day. Ain't going to happen without structured strength training.

I have the time, and I have the psyche. So I might as well get it used well.

Bradders

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#30 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 09:46:49 pm
Late entry...

M - pretty shattered from weekend away, travel, poor sleep, etc. Managed a board session in the evening though which was great, felt so much better for doing it. Tried 3 long term projects and at least did most of the moves, plus a couple of half decent links. Didn't feel too far off the pace.

Tu - rest

W - Almscliff. Put a session into working out what on earth you do to top out Crusis Direct. Worked it out eventually and came off on the last hard move from the start, on my last go before the light failed. Did Crusis itself a few times in the process.

Th - fingerboard, 6x 10s half crimp 26mm edge, 3 min rests. Upped weight to +45kg, leaving 2s in reserve. Did all the hangs. Then 15x pinch grip pick ups with 1 min rests. Followed by a board session which was awesome, finally did one of the moves on my Ben's sit simulator and then had an awesome go dropping the last move. Decent links on a couple of other projects.

F - rest

Sa - rest

Su - Caley. Did a few easy things around the Neat Wall area that it turned out I'd not done before. Great social with friends I'd not seen in a while. Then Ben's Groove Sit session #whoflippingknows... took me 3 or 4 tries to do the stand, falling off the move to the crack. Did the crux section fine in isolation, but then over a good 8-10 attempts from the start I didn't once manage to do the double RH slap. This isn't the first time I've struggled on it in theoretically great conditions; my skin gets very dry giving no friction and I just slide on the holds. Really need to find a solution to this. Maybe too much rest as well? Perhaps wasn't recruited enough after a double rest day. Frustrating. Barrans showed me a very slightly better way of doing the 3rd move and a couple of the foot moves though so hopefully that'll help next time.

James Malloch

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#31 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 25, 2021, 11:09:12 am
Quite a quiet one for me again…

Lots of long walk out with the dog and one board session on Thursday - finger was feeling good, but it’s clear that I’ve barely climbed in the last 5 weeks. Anything small was feeling hard!

Seems like quite a good position to be in though. Lots of problems to work on again which I know I can do, know beta etc. Just need to have some sessions on them to get a bit of strength back…

highrepute

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#32 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 27, 2021, 10:30:31 am
T - Fun scenes on the Nate Dogg board. Highlight was ticking off the second of Footwork's projects which he hasn't yet climbed. Had to try very hard. Couldn't believe I'd done it. Major buzz.

No better feeling. How's Ben dealing coping with this?

Will Hunt

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#33 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 27, 2021, 10:36:22 am
T - Fun scenes on the Nate Dogg board. Highlight was ticking off the second of Footwork's projects which he hasn't yet climbed. Had to try very hard. Couldn't believe I'd done it. Major buzz.

No better feeling. How's Ben dealing coping with this?

I believe he has since been back to the board and wouldn't even get back on it. Says it all.
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If you want to be the best, you have to show the best 'I am the best'!

Footwork

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#34 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 27, 2021, 01:09:06 pm
Flashed all your problems and projects though  :whistle:

Will Hunt

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#35 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 27, 2021, 01:26:16 pm
Flashed all your problems and projects though  :whistle:

Big talk. I haven't got any projects on there and I'm happy to admit that nothing I've set is hard. I don't think you flashed Match Maker though?
Looking forward to the next sesh.

36chambers

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#36 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 27, 2021, 02:25:40 pm
T - Fun scenes on the Nate Dogg board. Highlight was ticking off the second of Footwork's projects which he hasn't yet climbed. Had to try very hard. Couldn't believe I'd done it. Major buzz.

No better feeling. How's Ben dealing coping with this?

I believe he has since been back to the board and wouldn't even get back on it. Says it all.

After an anonymous request, and a substantial donation to the board fund, the crux hold of Space Dandy has been removed, smashed into a thousands pieces, and cast into the fire. Dans La Chevin no longer formally acknowledges any existence of such problem.

 

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