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Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021 (Read 6205 times)

duncan

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Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 08:53:11 am


M - Westway. 6 x 10 mins on the autobelay with 10 minutes rest between each set. A total of 375m, up to 6a but mostly easier. Easy climbing but pretty tiring. 10km walking.
T -  10km walking.
W - Fingerboard max. hangs: 6-7s on 20mm with 3 fingers drag, 8-9s on 15mm with 4 fingers half-crimped.
T - 10km walking.
F - Westway, more or less as Monday. 10km walking.
S - Shoulder conditioning (press-ups, handstands, side-planks). Hip/knee conditioning (single, double, and frog squats).
S -  Fingerboard max. hangs: 8s on 20mm with 3 fingers drag, 10s on 15mm with 4 fingers half-crimped. A good session.

Plus at least 7km walking every day.

Week 4 of single parenting. No actual climbing but some good training done. There were some mint days (in north London at least) so I'm looking forward to reading your reports.


shark

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#1 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 09:09:46 am
Thanks Duncan

M. Back to Chorras which was made very busy by a group of US high school kids apparently on a scheme where they travelled abroad for 4 months climbing in the day and getting taught in the evening. Must have rich parents! Had to wait for the classic 6b+ Dom Long John but it was worth it. Moved to Masters sector which was quieter. Felt lacking in confidence and energy but pulled my finger out and did El Americano 7b after a couple of false starts on the crux start. Good job the rest of it was straightforward as had tight forearms from the starting section and suspected I could have got pumped very quickly. Derek had a go at Placebo 6c+ but bailed at the crux. My logbook said I’d done it before but I had no recollection. This time continued up the extension which was good and made for a 48m pitch and undeserved 7a tick as the crux was still on the original. Generally felt under par and that a rest day was in order.

T

W Started on Oasis and warmed up on a 6b groove then did a cool and unpolished! 6c+ wall climb which involved an awkward marbly groove to start. Then onsighted the 7b left of Magic Line which had some tricky bridging then offwidthing between tufas leading to a hand jam finish - not often you clip the belay off a hand jam on a lime sport route. Great route but felt a bit of an ordeal and was paranoid I’d have a foot slip like on Magic Line.

T Started on the 6c+ by Long Dom John. Not a good warm up. Burly and found it hard (7a?) and very nearly gave up for the day. However, pulled my finger out and did the 48m Sederosa Luminosa extension 7b which involved wild tufa chimneying in the sky which was cool although objectively very soft for 7b. Then did a nice warm down 6c+ wall on Oasis

F

S Got motivated for climbing chatting shit in the bar previous night. Raining! Got soaked on walk in. No one else at the crag!. Rock dry. Led Cantina Marina 6c+ which I may have done before 🤷‍♂️ and is tough for the grade.  Then went to have a go at the highly rated Le Paz del Borrega 7b but misread the guide and went on Pim Pam Pons 7a+ by mistake and was shut down on its reachy crux. Dogged past and stripped it. Went on Borrega which turned out to be the highlight of the trip. 40m on great features with the hardest climbing in the top half so mentally taxing. Significantly harder than the other 7b’s I’d done. Kept my shit together, read it pretty well and onsighted it. 😀

S. Last day. Climbed by the fort and in the sun for the first time. Did a hard slabby 6c then the classic Phantom of the Opera 7a. Would have carried up the extension but fell trying to climb past the belay. Really hot by this stage so called it a day


Looking back it wasn’t surprising with hindsight that I was run down physically and mentally on the trip as I’d been hammering myself for the 5 weeks beforehand at the Tor. However, despite that I paced myself and kept at it and  salvaged the trip by cherrypicking the tufa routes where technique and milking rests meant I didn’t need PE. Also had some good nights in the bar, enjoyed the easier routes and got a kick out of Derek doing well. Week off now in order (well overdue) to recharge batteries.

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#2 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 10:21:03 am


M. Back to Chorras which was made very busy by a group of US high school kids apparently on a scheme where they travelled abroad for 4 months climbing in the day and getting taught in the evening. Must have rich parents!

The same gang were in Margalef the week before. Used their QDs on Magic Festival (which I didn't quite get done).

I'll update my log later....

JohnM

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#3 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 10:26:38 am
Indoor route training pyramid. Started this last year but then the wall closed. Off to a decent start so far.

       8a+
    8a  8a
7c+ 7c+ 7c+
Wall closed again because of the lastest lockdown  :slap: It always closes the week after I commit to buying a long term pass.

M - 5km hike.

T -  Indoor climbing. Shoulder stability, one arm hangs, campus progressions, BM2000 lower outer edges + 20kg (3 sets of 7 seconds). Circuit boulders up to 7A+.

W - Hamstring exercises and stretching. Shoulder stability and rotator cuff exercises.

T - 5km hike.

F - Trail running 12.74km 412m

S - Afternoon at the local crag for the first time this Autumn. I have a love/hate relationship with this place. The grades are sandbag, the rock is often polished and the holds are small and painful. However, the routes tend to have unusual and interesting moves and feel rewarding when you do them. I was going to try an 8a+/b I had tried before but was a bit hungover so opted for a longer and less intense looking 8a+ I had seen in a video that looked good. This had a hard boulder before a long techy wall and slab. It took me ages to work out the moves but I eventually found a cool sequence for the boulder and I managed to get through first try and finish the route with a lot of disco leg! 

S - Trail running 33.31km 2005m. Amazing blue bird day up in the mountains but my knee tendon is dodgy again.






Liamhutch89

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#4 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 10:43:13 am
Deload. Did 3 submaximal hangs on two days.

mr chaz

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#5 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 10:54:25 am
M.
T. Shed session. 2 arm deadhangs, max(ish) hangs. Mainly on 18 mm edge, 4 finger half crimp (felt easy) then 3 finger half crimp (felt desperate). Messed around on my new TRX thing from decathlon, figured it would help with warming up and building up my general core, back strength and mobility again. Pullups feel a bit creaky when I'm cold whereas front rows on the TRX feel a lot nicer at the start of a session.
W.
T. Shed session. Largely a repeat of Tues, except the front 3 felt a lot less desperate.
F. Discharged from NHS Physio.
S. NCT classes all day
S. DIY door hanging/reversing - what a fucking faff.

tommytwotone

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#6 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 11:35:19 am
Goal: New (to me) Font 7a outdoor somewhere

M: Nowt.
T: Run on lunch - 8km.
W: Nowt.
T: LSD session eve. Loads of new stuff
F: Run on lunch - 6km.
S: PCR test for sniffle-y daughter, tip run, other life admin. Went out and did a 5km run though.
S: Trip to Shipley Glen with son, got positive result for daughter en route. Arrived at The Glen, got out of the car, he climbed one thing and started complaining about cold so we got back in the car and set off home, via Baildon test centre.

Kind of story of my life at the moment - good intentions, progress, followed by life getting in the way.


Nibile

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#7 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 12:24:43 pm
Power Club

Mon - Lattice edge back3 +28 x10. Loaded carries 12'.
Tue - rest.
Wed - DL singles up to 130 kg @deficit.
Thu - weights. Tired.
Fri - light weights, ab wheel.
Sat - TBDL 80 kg x5 +1' farmer's x10. Brilliant.
Sun - board climbing. This shit is fun. Snatch ×5 + 1' overhead carry 40 kg x

Two very hard weeks. Little sleep, commuting, teaching, then back at work. Poor training but still training.



Duncan Disorderly

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#8 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 01:05:53 pm
Good work Simon, sounds like a nice trip and I'm sure the success on easier routes will do wonders for the psyche...

M: Rest/Stretching - Had MRI on shoulder... Quite an experience... Didn't realise they had to stick a massive needle in the joint and inject me with dye beforehand! Made me feel quite sick...
T: Fingerboard max hangs HC 20mm 7-10s @ 8Kg.... Woeful again but better than last week, maintained form at this weight, any more weight and the form went to shit. Set of repeaters HC. Moon board problems up to 6A (my arse!).. Couple of easy routes to cool down.
W: Mileage bouldering with the boy, lots of flashable problems...
T: Rest/Stretching
F: AeroCap @ AW - Full 4x4 set, 16 routes betweek F6b and F6b+... Chose routes that were sustained rather than cruxy and pushed me into feeling a bit sick on the final set (but not like I was going to fail...) may have overcooked the last set as was pretty destroyed at the end.
S: Easy routes @ Horseshit with GF - Really just went to get out,set up TR's, belay and walk the dog...
S: Mamouth 5hr Redpoint session @ AW - Routes up to F7a+... Was feeling tired but still tried really hard for a long time... Kept on plugging away, big falls, climbing cruxes when completely boxed, memorising moves... Trying to be as specific as possible - Destroyed!! Went to see Dune and got pissed...

Big week - Third and hardest week of this cycle (if you want to call it that, really just making it up as I go along but the general theory is to get progressively harder then rest, then do it all again I guess  :shrug:)... Going to deload/rest this coming week, maybe get out on the bike, do some easier climbing and some more stretching (been trying to do this most evenings before bed...) Booked a trip to Spain begining on January - Fingers crossed they don't go into lockdown or owt...

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#9 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 01:51:39 pm
TTT, hope you all stay well.
Shark, sounds like a good trip, glad you got plenty of milage in, I always think you spend a lot of time trying the same moves.


M -
T -
W - work, 12 hrs.
T - work, 12 hrs.
F - am run w/gf, 6k, flat, pavement, didn't time it but very gentle pace.
S - Flashpoint with gf, did quite a few of their "V5-6" set, some ace problems but very soft. Attempted a bit of campusing - shockingly bad, couldn't 1-3-6 or 1-4-6 for the first time I can remember.
S - took daughter to UCR, didn't climb.

71.5kg

Guess I could call it a deload week, but in reality just couldn't be arsed.

SA Chris

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#10 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 02:08:47 pm
M - easy run, hip flexor still knackered
F - Ninja Warrior Edinburgh with kids. Great fun for all, managed to do all the obstacles they had except two (horrible hooks you need to lock off, put into rings hanging from ropes and hang onto) and some discs on ropes that my daughter said was "easy"  but I never saw her do. Son with pipe cleaner thickness arms and weighing nothing did surprisingly well, as did weighing nothing gymnast daughter.

S - Brutal DOMS - Abs and Arms and Shoulders 

S - Brutal DOMS - Abs and Arms and Shoulders 

M - Brutal DOMS - Abs and Arms and Shoulders

Might be able to do some fingerboarding tomorrow 

cheque

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#11 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 02:14:05 pm
some discs on ropes that my daughter said was "easy"  but I never saw her do.

I hope you gave her a lecture about the need to provide video evidence in the modern era.

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#12 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 02:44:43 pm
Missed a week, documented here:
M Nov 8: G1. Training phase 2, week 9, session 1. Warmed up on boulders up to V6. Small edges 10mm 7/53 *5sets. Campus 1-3-Max, 1-4-Max, 1-Max *3sets. Close on 1-3-7, 1-4-7.5 and 1-6, would be good to get one of those soon! 20 mins limit bouldering on kilterboard, sent first KB V8, V6 flash at end of limit session. Campus touches on small rungs 1-3-1 * 6sets (3 each side). Managed to complete all reps. Cooled down on KB V5->V4->V3. Max FL holds *3sets to finish

T Nov 9: G1. Legs. Squats up to 170lb X5 *5sets (5lb more than usual). Lateral knee stability holds *3sets. Lower body stretching

W Nov 10: G1. Training phase 2, week 9, session 2. Warmed up on boulders up to V6. Small edges 10mm 7/53 *5sets. Campus 1-3-Max, 1-4-Max, 1-Max *1set - not feeling good so spent the rest of the session on the kilter board. 2 V8s, 3 V6s, 1 V5, 1 V4.

T Nov 11: Yard work

F Nov 12: Drove to Joe's

S Nov 13: Right Fork. Started at No Substance V8 - a mistake. Forgot how sharp the holds were… Failed on that and on Playmate of the Year V9 (another aim for the trip). Went up to the Flu area (long hike for Joe's). Tried the Flu V8, not my cup of tea at all with a crimpy top but managed to put that down. Did Pandemic V7 very quickly, so much better than the Flu. Did a V5 next to it then finished the day doing Rawhide V6 on the walk out

S Nov 14: New Joe's. Warmed up then got on Chips V7, good but an annoyingly droppable crux. Did that then did Planet of the Apes V7 not long after, a bit harder and much better than its neighbor. Went to Pocket Rocket V6, which took longer than expected. Over to Resident Evil area but feeling too spent for anything. After a quick trip to Food Ranch for some donuts, went up to Dairy Canyon for my mate to try Baldwin Bash V7. I flashed the V6 next to it (Rabbit Fur) then repeated Baldwin Bash. On the downclimb (shimmying between a tree and rock) something popped in my hand, ending my trip.

M Nov 15: Drove back to Denver. Got X-ray just to be sure, likely a strained extensor tendon

Rest of the week resting, in a splint. Kept mobility and started doing rehab - feeling much better so may test with a light wall session soon. Was feeling pretty burnt out from the training before the Joe's trip which is likely why I didn't climb too well. Massive increase in volume on the trip definitely contributed to the twinge...

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#13 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 22, 2021, 06:29:56 pm
Club


Monday

Tuesday
Went to the Awesome Walls after work. 
Route pyramid
4b, 5c, 6a, 5b, 5c, 6a,
6a+, 6a, 6a+, 6a+

Wednesday:
Wisdom teeth pulled out

Thursday :


Friday:
Climbed at BeerHouse Buttress
The grades were very stiff I thought. Short routes that were hard to read.

Managed to Redpoint two routes after failing the Onsight; Age of Reason & Clotted Cream. Then shut down on two others.
Lovely weather and in the sun.



Saturday:
A very brief 3hrs at Horseshoe Quarry. 
Tidied up Rotund Rooley from last weekend and scoped out a 6c, Rain Dance. Did it on top rope as it was quicker than trying to lead.

Sunday
Next week is a de-load week as I’m in London for the week on a ORSC coaching course.






SA Chris

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#14 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 23, 2021, 08:53:34 am
some discs on ropes that my daughter said was "easy"  but I never saw her do it.

I hope you gave her a lecture about the need to provide video evidence in the modern era.

They have security cameras, I might try and hack the system and check.

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#15 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 23, 2021, 10:17:29 am
T - Fun scenes on the Nate Dogg board. Highlight was ticking off the second of Footwork's projects which he hasn't yet climbed. Had to try very hard. Couldn't believe I'd done it. Major buzz.

Th - Another sesh on the Nate Dogg board. Set and did a couple of things - struggled to set something that was more-than-one-session difficult.

Sa - A quick Caley hit in the afternoon. Warmed up a bit at home. As I got to Juha's there was a bit of moisture in the air. Had about 10 goes, fairly consistently getting to the hold but not hanging it. Some proper connies might be the key, and an inspection of the hold on a ladder. Moved onto Two Squirrels and played on that but made no real impression on it. A somewhat dispiriting session - had to do Angel's Wall on the way out as a reminder that rock climbing wasn't a complete waste of time.

shark

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#16 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 23, 2021, 12:35:27 pm
Shark, sounds like a good trip, glad you got plenty of milage in, I always think you spend a lot of time trying the same moves.

Yes it was good but could have been even better I’d rested/deloaded/tapered beforehand. Hey ho. Planning an extended trip to Spain for January so looking to improve my onsight performance on that trip as well as develop more endurance/capacity for the year ahead.
Your right about the same moves. I’m conscious I get far to sucked into projects so 2022 will be a year of more variety. Having said that once I’m recovered from this trip (feeling broken ATM) I’m looking forward to getting stuck in on Bens for what’s left of the year.

iain

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#17 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 23, 2021, 02:44:06 pm

Nice effort on Bad Lip last week Wellsy, and great to see you get some good climbing done Simon.
For the poor memory record I once got to the front of the check in queue to realise my passport was at home 4 hours away, scratch one sport climbing trip.


2 weeks cause muppet here changed their password, left it at home and didn't want to pester those on holiday for the second time.

General goals:  stay injury free, maintain finger/general prehab routines

Week 1:
Weight: 69.5 average

M - Shoulder and hip mobility

T - Stanage circuit. It wasn't wet but a dampness in the air meant I struggled on the grit more than normal. Got some thin hand and fist jamming practise in at least.

W - Depot. Got on the Purple circuit and was feeling good but 5/6 problems in felt something twang in my thigh. Pain still there after a rest so called it a day and hobbled home.
Left leg adductor (longus maybe) was the diagnosis

T - Leg pain easing a little. Thorasic and shoulder mobility and stengthening

F - Fingerboard benchmarking, last done 5-6 weeks ago and didn't consult numbers before starting just in case it made me try harder. 2-3% total weight improvement at 5s across all holds one and two handed.
Two handed small BM crimps: 94.2kg half crimp, 91.7kg 3 finger open
One handed bottom slot: 56.7kg half crimp, 65.5kg open

S - Leg pain easing, drove to Lleyn area with S

S - Back to the mountains on a good forecast. Tentative start checking out leg turned into 5 hour walk up over the Glyders


Week 2:
Weight: 69.3 average

M - Sat watching the rain all day

T - Decided to give the leg a try bouldering, headed to Porth Ysgo only for it to downpour as we got to the beach. Played tourist for the rest of the day, 5 miles walking.

W - Ultimate Warrior, I mean the name caught my eye and then the photos sealed the deal. Realistically it wasn't a goer but thought I'd have a play with easier stuff nearby as a backup.

Spent the first part of the session working through some proper fear/panic on the ridiculously easy slab at the end of the UW block. It's not even that high but was giving me a proper scare, just want to keep nudging the comfort zone.

Flashed UW stand which felt good and then surprised myself by not completely failing on the sit. Last, best go I was in control ~2 inches short of the hold. Such a cool move and I wish it was closer to home for repeat visits.

Had a look at the easier stuff nearby but leg was unhappy.

T - 5 miles tourist walking, drive home

F - Weekend trip called off due to partner's cold.
Short board session, linking moves on a long term project

S - Shoulder/hip mobility

S - Headed back to N.Wales for a couple of days bouldering instead of the ropes trip.
Lily Savage, midafternoon by the time I found it and the sun wasn't showing itself much. Bitterly cold and skin was so glassy I couldn't hang the ramps to start with. Takes me a long time to warm up anyway but it was 2 hours before I felt like I could move properly and by then the sun was setting.

Eventually topped out LS from a sitstart by headtorch well after dark.

Should've been psyched except that it just didn't feel hard enough for the given grade, and sure enough when I checked I'd not started low enough. Bollocks.

M - Back to Lily Savage, such a beautiful day.
Repeated the wrong sitstart while warming up figuring I only needed to stick the sit once. Worked through every option I could see and could pull on in several different ways but  :no:, nothing worked.
It 'should' suit me but it felt utterly improbable in a way UW hadn't, baffled.

Got to the last hard move of Desmond 2:2 a few times but couldn't commit, alternative beta I got shown felt too stretched and every go was making the leg worse.

Lesson to be relearned about when to call time but I just couldn't let go of the thought I was missing something and as a result didn't do much actual climbing on a really lovely day.

Good doms this morning.

-----

Last 6 weeks have been about upping the volume and training while climbing, keeping in mind the rough session types I'm wanting to have, the leg injury co-incided with the easy week I had in mind anyway.

Going to aim for 6-8 aerocap sessions before christmas plus a limit and volume session each week, the limit and volume might have to be fingerboard based while I let the leg heal properly.

shark

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#18 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 23, 2021, 03:03:52 pm

2 weeks cause muppet here changed their password, left it at home and didn't want to pester those on holiday for the second time

 ;D

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#19 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 23, 2021, 10:08:41 pm
Cheers iain!

Last week I approached a coach about putting together a physical assessment and a training plan, basically out of a sense of really wanting to progress but also appreciating that I didn't really structure my own training at all.

So last Monday I had that assessment and then I did light to moderate indoor bouldering sessions on Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday to go with that as wanted a light week pre training plan starting. Rested Sunday and kicked it off yesterday.

Main thing from the assessment is that my base upper body strength needs work before I really go into more specific stuff. So the next 8-10 weeks will be an upper body hypertrophy phase where I do a lot of dumbbell overhead press, dumbbell bench, bicep curls, bicep rows, Weighted mobility, core, Weighted pullups etc to get some more muscle around my shoulders and arms and essentially strengthen and protect the shoulder joints in a wider range of angles. Plus hangboarding as really there's no reason not to.

My goal for 2022 is 7B on grit and 7B+ on lime so a couple of grades improvement and this is all in aid of that! Got started yesterday and very psyched. My plan does allow for 1-2 outdoor sessions a week so will be able to use grit season while cracking on with some strength base work :)

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#20 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 10:04:05 am
Last week I approached a coach about putting together a physical assessment and a training plan, basically out of a sense of really wanting to progress but also appreciating that I didn't really structure my own training at all.

Sounds like a good plan... Who did you go with?

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#21 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 10:31:47 am
Core Coaching, a small outfit based out of the Works in Sheffield mostly. I know one of the guys who works there and he knows my climbing a bit so thought it would be most useful.

I found the assessment really good and the plan feels good. I'll let people know how it goes. For now though just going to put the time in and hopefully get Beach Bum and Bumlog Millionaire done in the next couple of weeks :)

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#22 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 02:51:40 pm
IIRC your fingers are hugely overstrong and you can nearly do a muscle up? I hope "a lot of dumbbell overhead press, dumbbell bench, bicep curls, bicep rows, Weighted mobility, core, Weighted pullups etc [...]. Plus hangboarding" is all very much secondary to going rock climbing in this plan?!

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#23 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 03:47:40 pm
Exactly what I thought

Wellsy

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#24 Re: Power Club 609 15-21 Nov 2021
November 24, 2021, 03:50:49 pm
IIRC your fingers are hugely overstrong and you can nearly do a muscle up? I hope "a lot of dumbbell overhead press, dumbbell bench, bicep curls, bicep rows, Weighted mobility, core, Weighted pullups etc [...]. Plus hangboarding" is all very much secondary to going rock climbing in this plan?!

Oh yeah I'll be climbing four times a week and outdoors as many times out of those as I can. I'll just be doing this work on top of that split into conditioning sessions before rest days. If the plan involved me climbing less I wouldn't do it. And it probably would make me worse as my technique would go backwards anyway.

 

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