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Perfect Rock Climbs (Read 5040 times)

Will Hunt

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Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 11:38:08 am
Which routes or problems are so perfect in their formation that they defy the need to be combined with another? Which routes and problems cannot be further improved?

I will have to meditate on this but one that springs to mind is l'Angle Ben's (let's face it, they're all going to be aretes aren't they?)

Liamhutch89

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#1 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 11:49:48 am
Demon wall roof footless

andy_e

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#2 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 11:51:04 am
Nah, Demon Wall Roof original in three hand moves to the ear.

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#3 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 11:53:34 am
The entirety of Diabaig.

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#4 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 11:58:41 am
I actually thought about suggesting all the pitches at Diabaig in one long multipitch on that other thread.

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#5 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 12:21:32 pm
The Vanishing at Connor Cove. You wouldn't want to combine it with anything else as any additions would only lower the average quality.

Bradders

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#6 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 12:28:40 pm
Ben's Groove Sit

Teaboy

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#7 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 12:29:09 pm
The Ashes, most of the routes on the Left and Right walls of Dinas Cromlech

Will Hunt

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#8 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 12:35:38 pm
The Ashes, most of the routes on the Left and Right walls of Dinas Cromlech

But The Ashes has that top bit that's very often wet. And some of the stuff up to the eyes is a bit pedestrian isn't it?

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#9 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 04:27:11 pm
Hargreaves Original route

Will Hunt

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#10 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 05:27:33 pm
Really struggling to think of any multipitch which isn't compromised by a pedestrian pitch somewhere.

Desert Island Arete (Earl)
The Great Flake (Caley)
President's Slab (Rylstone)
Dental Slab (Rylstone) is either improved or worsened by the traverse across the steep wall at the start and I can't figure out which it is.
Ichabod (Scafell)
The Alamo (Eavestone)
The Waster (Chevin Buttress)


Space Race and New Dawn? They're both perfect but for the positioning of the belay? That Yosemite Wall belay for SR feels just a little arbitrary?

McNab (Lord's Seat)
Bird Flu (Hen Stones)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Code Orange (Hellifield)
Monochrome (Burbage)
Heaven in your Hands (Brandrith)
A Northern Soul (Hepburn)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)

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#11 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 05:33:37 pm
Really struggling to think of any multipitch which isn't compromised by a pedestrian pitch somewhere.
Pluto, Raven Langdale.

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#12 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 05:35:24 pm
Positive Vibrations on The Incredible Hulk. Can't remember a bad pitch, or even a bad bit on it!

Will Hunt

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#13 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 05:36:17 pm
Really struggling to think of any multipitch which isn't compromised by a pedestrian pitch somewhere.
Pluto, Raven Langdale.

Strong suggestion. I remember the final pitch feeling really wild and out there and no pitch is a pushover at the grade, but is the climbing excellent throughout?  :-\

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#14 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 05:38:12 pm
Really struggling to think of any multipitch which isn't compromised by a pedestrian pitch somewhere.
Fiesta de Los Biceps in Riglos. This is the perfect multipitch no question. Fun steep climbing all the way. Long enough to get really high above everything around you but short enough that you can do it in a morning or afternoon so no need to carry a bag to slow you down. Vultures circling to keep you entertained at the belays. No slabs to give you painful toes. Easy walk down straight to the bar.

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#15 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 05:41:17 pm
Really struggling to think of any multipitch which isn't compromised by a pedestrian pitch somewhere.

Desert Island Arete (Earl)
The Great Flake (Caley)
President's Slab (Rylstone)
Dental Slab (Rylstone) is either improved or worsened by the traverse across the steep wall at the start and I can't figure out which it is.
Ichabod (Scafell)
The Alamo (Eavestone)
The Waster (Chevin Buttress)


Space Race and New Dawn? They're both perfect but for the positioning of the belay? That Yosemite Wall belay for SR feels just a little arbitrary?

McNab (Lord's Seat)
Bird Flu (Hen Stones)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Code Orange (Hellifield)
Monochrome (Burbage)
Heaven in your Hands (Brandrith)
A Northern Soul (Hepburn)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)


I mean I don't know a lot of these but your inclusion of Monochrome is either a joke, in which case I claim my £5, or your judgement is so poor that the only sensible way forward is to lock and logpile.

Will Hunt

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#16 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 05:44:05 pm
Really struggling to think of any multipitch which isn't compromised by a pedestrian pitch somewhere.

Desert Island Arete (Earl)
The Great Flake (Caley)
President's Slab (Rylstone)
Dental Slab (Rylstone) is either improved or worsened by the traverse across the steep wall at the start and I can't figure out which it is.
Ichabod (Scafell)
The Alamo (Eavestone)
The Waster (Chevin Buttress)


Space Race and New Dawn? They're both perfect but for the positioning of the belay? That Yosemite Wall belay for SR feels just a little arbitrary?

McNab (Lord's Seat)
Bird Flu (Hen Stones)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Code Orange (Hellifield)
Monochrome (Burbage)
Heaven in your Hands (Brandrith)
A Northern Soul (Hepburn)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)


I mean I don't know a lot of these but your inclusion of Monochrome is either a joke, in which case I claim my £5, or your judgement is so poor that the only sensible way forward is to lock and logpile.

I thought it was brilliant! I can't think of a way to improve it!

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#17 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 05:45:56 pm
Really struggling to think of any multipitch which isn't compromised by a pedestrian pitch somewhere.

Most skip the first pitch of Alix, punk de Vergons by traversing in from left. If so every single pitch would be the best pitch on most single pitch crags. There are lots of routes in Verdon without pedestrian pitches, especially the shorter routes, L'ange en decomposition for instance. All killer no filler.

Fiesta has also been mentioned, but is not the first pitch a bit meh?

andy moles

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#18 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 05:46:39 pm
Positive Vibrations on The Incredible Hulk. Can't remember a bad pitch, or even a bad bit on it!

Now we talkin'.

Though really you can pick holes in any rock climb, with the possible exception of some boulder problems. Perfect is a demanding adjective.

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#19 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 05:52:27 pm
Brown-Whillans on the West face of the Blatiere (though now badly altered through rockfall I think). Sure, the Fissure Brown would put some people off but I thought it was it was great. Thereafter, there's what I remember as an endless succession of three star HVS pitches up corners, cracks, and grooves. Brill.

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#20 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 06:10:59 pm

But The Ashes has that top bit that's very often wet.
Well yes, the same is true of every route in the UK, in fact you’ve gone on to list a load of routes that are either on top of a moor, on top of a hill in the Lake District or n the seepiest part of Malham. I’m with JB, you’re obviously trolling.

Quote
And some of the stuff up to the eyes is a bit pedestrian isn't it?

You’re going to have to explain what you mean by pedestrian. It’s got a lovely, techy groove, a brilliant balance throw to escape it followed by a move which feels impossible for the grade but when cracked just sort of goes with subtle body positions and then a throw for the mother of all jugs. All on perfect rock. And that’s the entre for the better second half. But yeah, it’s got nothing on Space Race.


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#21 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 06:42:05 pm
Positive Vibrations on The Incredible Hulk. Can't remember a bad pitch, or even a bad bit on it!

We went up to the Hulk and only had time for Red Dihedrals. We'd driven up from sea level about a day or so before and I spent the day (after biving) in one hell of a fog staring to my left with serious buyer's remorse!

Andy F

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#22 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 06:53:12 pm

Quote
And some of the stuff up to the eyes is a bit pedestrian isn't it?

You’re going to have to explain what you mean by pedestrian. It’s got a lovely, techy groove, a brilliant balance throw to escape it followed by a move which feels impossible for the grade but when cracked just sort of goes with subtle body positions and then a throw for the mother of all jugs. All on perfect rock. And that’s the entre for the better second half. But yeah, it’s got nothing on Space Race.

I'm with Teaboy on this. The start of the Ashes would be a 3* 7b anywhere in the UK. Then throw in the moves from the eyes, the throw to the boss, the fluffable move to jugs and the run-out to the out of sight belay with naught but air below your bollocks and you've got a perfect sport route.

Certainly the best 7th grade route I've done in the country.

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#23 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 06:56:35 pm
Pluto, Raven Langdale.
Strong suggestion. I remember the final pitch feeling really wild and out there and no pitch is a pushover at the grade, but is the climbing excellent throughout?  :-\
Each pitch is a two star pitch in it's own right - definitely no filler, and all contrasting. I generally get a bit bored with multipitch in the mountains but I think it's genuinely great.

Will Hunt

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#24 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 07:04:32 pm
I agree that the Ashes is just about perfect but had concerns over those last few moves might be over nondescript ground. Never mind.

Andy F

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#25 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 07:10:34 pm
They'd be nondescript as a boulder prob, but as the finish to The Ashes they just work perfectly.

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#26 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 08:40:15 pm
 Positive vibrations definitely. Although slight chossy ledge after the first few pitches? Ideally you'd have hanging belays all the way.

Bachar yerrian doesn't have much in the way of filler. Either hard or terrifying or both.

I can't imagine many people have done or tried tuppence and walked away feeling like it needs more...

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#27 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 08, 2021, 08:48:09 pm
Ideally you'd have hanging belays all the way.

 :blink:

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#28 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 09, 2021, 04:53:06 pm
This one.

Only some stupid fecker went and bolted it (In a trad area no less!!!).

Still amazing though.

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#29 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 09, 2021, 06:42:05 pm
I can't imagine many people have done or tried tuppence and walked away feeling like it needs more...

You didn't spot my fantasy route combo! Tuppence is great but more would be better...

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#30 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 09, 2021, 11:17:54 pm
This one.

Only some stupid fecker went and bolted it (In a trad area no less!!!).

Still amazing though.

Broken link  :(

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#31 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 09, 2021, 11:59:56 pm
This one.

Only some stupid fecker went and bolted it (In a trad area no less!!!).

Still amazing though.

Broken link  :(

https://www.instagram.com/p/CRRMAXTtbJr/

just had some fluff surrounding it

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#32 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 10, 2021, 07:26:15 am
This one.

Only some stupid fecker went and bolted it (In a trad area no less!!!).

Still amazing though.

That looks totally class (albeit in a less than perfect situation inside a slot?)

Calling of the grinding exhibit A.

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#33 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 10, 2021, 07:36:50 am
The Optimator, 13a Indian Creek

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#34 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 10, 2021, 07:47:02 am
I thought of another - and I may actually have called this one perfect in the guidebook: Grooved Slab at Helsby. I can't think of a single way in which this could be improved.

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#35 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 10, 2021, 07:47:49 am
This one.

Only some stupid fecker went and bolted it (In a trad area no less!!!).

Still amazing though.

That looks totally class (albeit in a less than perfect situation inside a slot?)

Calling of the grinding exhibit A.

Nah it's in southern France so the Slot means prime connies in summer. It was amazing, 30+degrees in the open air but in the canyon probably 10 degrees less. It was brilliant! Someone definitely needs to get a grinder on it...

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#36 Re: Perfect Rock Climbs
November 10, 2021, 08:04:52 am
What's the route called?

 

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