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Brandenburg Gate finally falls (Read 27607 times)

remus

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#25 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 06:53:44 pm
What's 28 on the topo? That looks like the straightest line to finish 26!

28 is Mega Whore 8c which is technically a link of Make it Funky in to The Whore of Babylon A0/8a. It'd add about an 8a on top of whatever Brandenburg gets.

Kingy

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#26 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 06:54:28 pm
I saw this go down, it was awesome! Looked fully in control on all the moves. Finished as for Make it Funky i.e. at the Mecca belay

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#27 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 06:58:48 pm
Holy cow!

Cue insane grade debates.
Insane AND inane, ideally!

I wonder how many stars this kingest of king line LGPs will get...

Ru

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#28 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 07:00:10 pm
Great that this has been done as it pretty much closes the Raven Tor book. Most eagerly anticipated 1* route ever?

It's famous because it's at Raven Tor, it's really hard and it's been tried by lots of wads over the years. Most notably Gaskins had some really good burns on it but was never quite able to seal the deal.

Not sure anyone really tried it apart from Gaskins? Don't know who put the bolts in.
« Last Edit: November 07, 2021, 07:07:33 pm by Ru »

Wood FT

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#29 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 07:07:53 pm
Great that this has been done as it pretty much closes the Raven Tor book. I saw Gaskins try it a lot in 2002 as I did MiF that summer so was right next to him. Most eagerly anticipated 1* route ever?

It's famous because it's at Raven Tor, it's really hard and it's been tried by lots of wads over the years. Most notably Gaskins had some really good burns on it but was never quite able to seal the deal.

Not sure anyone really tried it apart from Gaskins? Don't know who put the bolts in.

What was Gaskins like on it?

grimer

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#30 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 07:08:25 pm
It was 26 into 28 as far as jugs at the bottom of the flake then reversing to take out the draws. It’s tiny.

To be fair everyone at the crag was taken to the Anglers and BoB threw the credit card behind the bar. Madness. It was like the scenes in the Fat cat after Vickers and Fliss won the Foundry Open in 93.

Will Hunt

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#31 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 07:12:00 pm
Good work by Bosi.
This is the first time I've actually seen a topo of the Tor. It puts the whole "Gaskins was three moves from easy ground" thing in a different light - that's a third of the route by my eye.

I'm a bit gutted to discover that this is what BG looks like. I'd envisaged a steep wall of non-existent holds soaring up and out of sight.

To be fair everyone at the crag was taken to the Anglers and BoB threw the credit card behind the bar. Madness. It was like the scenes in the Fat cat after Vickers and Fliss won the Foundry Open in 93.

Tbf that is pretty cool.

Wood FT

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#32 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 07:28:10 pm

To be fair everyone at the crag was taken to the Anglers and BoB threw the credit card behind the bar. Madness. It was like the scenes in the Fat cat after Vickers and Fliss won the Foundry Open in 93.

Bullllllllshit

Kingy

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#33 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 07:29:16 pm

Not sure anyone really tried it apart from Gaskins? Don't know who put the bolts in.

I think Ste Mac had a play on the moves but don't think he spent much time on it

Ru

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#34 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 07:31:12 pm
What was Gaskins like on it?

On the moves through the stepped roofs he was mostly pulling on then falling straight off again when I saw him. He was doing bigger links above that (the remaining 2 - 3 moves into MiF). Others saw him do more on it I think.

Wood FT

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#35 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 07:35:06 pm
What was Gaskins like on it?

On the moves through the stepped roofs he was mostly pulling on then falling straight off again when I saw him. He was doing bigger links above that (the remaining 2 - 3 moves into MiF). Others saw him do more on it I think.

Ta

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#36 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 07:59:24 pm
Tbf that is pretty cool if true.

Just realised that this is Grimer talking and I don't want to appear completely credulous.

cheque

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#37 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 08:00:00 pm
This is the first time I've actually seen a topo of the Tor. It puts the whole "Gaskins was three moves from easy ground" thing in a different light - that's a third of the route by my eye.

I'm a bit gutted to discover that this is what BG looks like. I'd envisaged a steep wall of non-existent holds soaring up and out of sight.

There’s an easy way up round the back too.

This might help the Tor-uninitiated:



4. Indecent Exposure, 7c
7. The Full Monty, 7c+
10. Body Machine, 7c+
13. An In & Out of Body Experience, 8a
14. Body Builder, 8a+
15. The Prow, 8a
16. The Crucifixion, 8a
17. Proud Whore, 7c+
18. Brazen Strumpet, 8a
19. Jehovakill, 8b+
20. Revelations, 8b
21. Rage, 8b
22. Anger Management, 8a+
23. Rage into Crucifixion, 8b
24. Hubble, 9a
25. The Whore of Babylon, A0/ 8a
26. Brandenburg Gate
27. Make it Funky, 8c
28. Mega Whore, 8c
29. Mecca, 8b+
30. Mecca Extension, 8c
31. The Hajj, 8c
32. Kaaba, 8c+
34. Stevolution, 9a


Duncan Disorderly

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#38 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 08:10:03 pm
 :bow:

remus

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#39 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 08:23:51 pm
To be fair everyone at the crag was taken to the Anglers and BoB threw the credit card behind the bar. Madness. It was like the scenes in the Fat cat after Vickers and Fliss won the Foundry Open in 93.

The Groucho club comes to Miller's Dale.

Bradders

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#40 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 08:25:22 pm
Thanks Cheque.

Not being familiar with the Tor, why would you not finish up Mega Whore? From the topo that looks the best line.

jwi

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#41 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 08:27:24 pm
Holy cow!

Cue insane grade debates.
Insane AND inane, ideally!

I wonder how many stars this kingest of king line LGPs will get...

If Bosi does not credit his nutritionist and ballet teacher I will unsubscribe

moose

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#42 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 08:45:09 pm
Is it plausible that since the only person to give this any real attention was possibly a bullshitter / fantasist, that BG isn't all that hard in the grand scheme of things?  By which I mean it's Hubble-esque in grade, rather than the paradigm shifting route I had innocently imagined when I first heard of Gaskins' efforts.

teestub

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#43 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 08:55:39 pm

If Bosi does not credit his nutritionist and ballet teacher I will unsubscribe

I've heard the the new Lattice Chakra Alignment service was the key missing part of the puzzle.

grimer

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#44 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 09:01:06 pm
Having witnessed the ascent I’m going with 9a+/b and I’m not accepting any comments on my post. When he got to the Mecca flake he brewed up using a gas cylinder left there by El mocho. Peppermint apparently

moose

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#45 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 09:05:18 pm
Having witnessed the ascent I’m going with 9a+/b and I’m not accepting any comments on my post. When he got to the Mecca flake he brewed up using a gas cylinder left there by El mocho. Peppermint apparently

Armchair grades are the most accurate grades.  Obvious innit - not confused by investment, emotion, or fatigue.

Kingy

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#46 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 09:30:05 pm
Not being familiar with the Tor, why would you not finish up Mega Whore? From the topo that looks the best line.

The Tor is notable for its steep undercut starts and much easier finishes and a convention was established since the FA of Revelations, Mecca and Hubble and others that routes tend to have belays put in at the end of the real difficulties and arrival at bomber rests/ good holds rather than subject repeaters to the sometimes relatively plodding finishes (its all relative (!), in comparision to what's gone before is what I mean).

I can put it no better than Jerry Moffat when asked about Evolution in the mid nineties TV series Pennine Rock:
"People have questioned why it finishes there in the middle of the wall. But you get to a good hold and it's the obvious place to finish. For anyone climbing at my level they wouldn't even question it."

abarro81

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#47 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 09:32:49 pm
Jerry needs his eyes tested if he thinks that's the obvious place to finish

Stu Littlefair

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#48 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 10:05:15 pm
I think Will’s done the decent thing here by finishing at the Mecca flake. Now the next generation can add their own batch of easy finishes and we can add another 6 or 7 lines on that topo.

As an aside I can never forgive Steve for not calling Mega Whore “Make it Longer”.

Bet this gets one of those modern grades the kids use, like “9a if you can climb 9b”.

kc

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#49 Re: Brandenburg Gate finally falls
November 07, 2021, 10:13:19 pm
There isn't any logical reason to finish at the Mecca belay. I'm sure it is only because there is actually a belay there. When I was trying MIF and replacing some of the old bolts I did consider installing an alternative belay on some really good jugs up the line of 28 horizontal to the number 30 on that topo. This didn't change the grade and was where a transition of style occurred on Mega whore. I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't finish here if I had installed an attractive belay. If you build it they will come!

 

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